Diagnosis? Help-a-noob. w/PICS Purple pistils!

ManusDei

Member
jeez so many odd answers, 1st tell us what your nutes NPK ratio is and what your temps are for day and night time please.

the purpling is from P getting clotted stems, this happens usually when its cold, especially in the skinny stems (anything below 65 degrees), and also happens when there is a lot of P. K regulates the water intake and plant respiration, K should always be the highest nute (thats what the gow bible and a few college studies say anyways). the lower leaves yellowing and dieing is from N deficiency(probably from bloom nutes), the downward claw is over watering(looks similar to salt build up but your plant is going defficient so its not), and over watering suffocated the roots and doesnt allow them to absorb N at all... thats why your plant is eating the N stored up in the lower leaves.
Thanks for your response.

In the OP I stated that the nutes are simply - chicken shit tea. I did hit em once with a 1/4 strength dose of bloom nute of 10-54-10, so 2.5-13.5-2.5. This was after the canoeing and yellow however.

The plant is in a greenhouse, and the current temps are typically 65/70 at night - 90/100* peak day. Normal daytime temps are around 85 and about 65% humidity.

I dont water until the pots are light and/or the plant is starting to droop for thirst. but, she was in a 3 gal pot and I was watering about every 3 days or so. I recently transplanted her into a 5 gal pot and the root mass was fairly white with some tanning around the base of the container where they most likely got dry fast due to the drainage holes. She also wasnt what you'd call root-bound, but getting close around the base of the ball.

The Purpling has been visable since it was about a month old. All other plants from the same bunch of seeds, including the male that I never really fed, have some purple (this is why I saved him for pollen), but not as much as this one. She has always been more purple.

As far as N deficiency goes, everything I've read states that N def starts at the leaf TIPS. These start at the leaf BASE. No drying of the tips have been noticed until total chlorosis. Even then, the drying starts anywhere on the leaf. Also, there's no curling of the upper parts the of plant.
 

Jack Harer

Well-Known Member
First off, well done on the analytical assessment!!
Could be a Mg deficiency. The interveinal chlorosis starts in the lower leaves and progresses from there. Probably due to pH lock out. Keep an eye on it. If your pH is stabilized at around 6.8 or 7, and it gets worse, then try adding some cal/mag or epsom salts (1 tbsp/gal). Other than that, they're beautiful.
 
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