rossbonlay
Well-Known Member
Does anybody know the exact difference(elctricity wise) between these digital ballasts and a normal one,i need to up my watts,ive a standard 400watt,but thinkin of investing?
Digital ballast??
- Thread starter rossbonlay
- Start date
Before entering into a discussion as to why digital ballasts are superior to the old-fashioned magnetic core and coil types, it may be helpful to know exactly what a ballast system is in terms of hydroponic gardening and grow lights.
All standard grow lights used in hydroponic gardening – whether some type of metal vapor or fluorescent – employ a ballast system. This consists of a housing, within which is contained electronic components that in essence “prime the pump.” A fluorescent light has its own built-in ballast system; this builds up the energy required to activate the molecules inside the fluorescent tube, which in turn causes them to glow, emitting light. Metal Halide and HPS grow lights have “remote ballasts” which are housed inside a metal container. The components are what make up these lamps’ main power supply. Together, they function as a “pre-heater,” which allows electrical power to build up to the point that the lamp will run.
The drawback of these kinds of ballasts is that they build up the energy required to run the lamp, then sends it on all at once. The cold bulb is literally “slammed” with energy at full force. A good metaphor is the case of someone who puts a car in gear, disengages the clutch, revs the engine up to 4000 RPM then “pops” the clutch. “Pealing out” may be fun and impressive to onlookers (though illegal in most places), but as any automotive technician will tell you, can shorten the car’s engine and drive train considerably.
It is the same with standard ballasts; the sudden surge of electricity tends to shorten bulb life. In addition, standard coil-type ballasts cause the bulb to “strobe,” or flicker.
Digital ballasts eliminate this wear and tear on the bulb by providing a flow of electricity that starts out at a low level, then increases energy flow as the bulb warms up and achieves full brightness. Studies have shown that MH and LPS grow lights used with a digital ballast lost only 20 to 25% of their PAR luminescence (the wavelengths actually used by the plant) after one year; those used with a standard ballast had lost over twice at much over the same period.
It should be noted that digital ballasts vary in terms of quality and reliability. In general, products made in Chinese factories tend to be of inferior quality, and should be avoided. The best digital ballasts will run all types of grow lights, and be able to recognize the difference between metal halide, HPS or LED. If a bulb is defective, damaged or incompatible, or if a short circuit is detected a well-manufactured, U.S.- made digital ballast will automatically shutdown before a safety hazard is created.
All standard grow lights used in hydroponic gardening – whether some type of metal vapor or fluorescent – employ a ballast system. This consists of a housing, within which is contained electronic components that in essence “prime the pump.” A fluorescent light has its own built-in ballast system; this builds up the energy required to activate the molecules inside the fluorescent tube, which in turn causes them to glow, emitting light. Metal Halide and HPS grow lights have “remote ballasts” which are housed inside a metal container. The components are what make up these lamps’ main power supply. Together, they function as a “pre-heater,” which allows electrical power to build up to the point that the lamp will run.
The drawback of these kinds of ballasts is that they build up the energy required to run the lamp, then sends it on all at once. The cold bulb is literally “slammed” with energy at full force. A good metaphor is the case of someone who puts a car in gear, disengages the clutch, revs the engine up to 4000 RPM then “pops” the clutch. “Pealing out” may be fun and impressive to onlookers (though illegal in most places), but as any automotive technician will tell you, can shorten the car’s engine and drive train considerably.
It is the same with standard ballasts; the sudden surge of electricity tends to shorten bulb life. In addition, standard coil-type ballasts cause the bulb to “strobe,” or flicker.
Digital ballasts eliminate this wear and tear on the bulb by providing a flow of electricity that starts out at a low level, then increases energy flow as the bulb warms up and achieves full brightness. Studies have shown that MH and LPS grow lights used with a digital ballast lost only 20 to 25% of their PAR luminescence (the wavelengths actually used by the plant) after one year; those used with a standard ballast had lost over twice at much over the same period.
It should be noted that digital ballasts vary in terms of quality and reliability. In general, products made in Chinese factories tend to be of inferior quality, and should be avoided. The best digital ballasts will run all types of grow lights, and be able to recognize the difference between metal halide, HPS or LED. If a bulb is defective, damaged or incompatible, or if a short circuit is detected a well-manufactured, U.S.- made digital ballast will automatically shutdown before a safety hazard is created.
coolgreens
Active Member
nice post crazy, thanks.
I have noticed decreased bulb life using all digital ballasts, I now use the cheapest HPS bulbs I could find at Lowes, they work great and at $14 for 400 watters I save enough money to overcome the cost of losing $40 Hortilux bulbs each year. No difference in yields to be honest.
I have 7 Lumatek Ballasts in 400 and 600 watt flavors, a couple of the 400's have in excess of 25,000 hours over the last 5 years. All are still working, never had a problem.Lumatek Also has a FIVE year warranty, its EXACTLY the same warranty Phantom gives you, EXACTLY. All high Quality Digital ballasts have the same failure rate, the reason you see more about Lumatek is because there are 10 times as many Lumateks out there than anything else, but the failure rate per 100,000 units is actually about the same as anyone elses ballast. Fan cooled Ballasts tend to fail the most. Lumateks ballasts are fully potted inside and have no need for a fan.
I have 7 Lumatek Ballasts in 400 and 600 watt flavors, a couple of the 400's have in excess of 25,000 hours over the last 5 years. All are still working, never had a problem.Lumatek Also has a FIVE year warranty, its EXACTLY the same warranty Phantom gives you, EXACTLY. All high Quality Digital ballasts have the same failure rate, the reason you see more about Lumatek is because there are 10 times as many Lumateks out there than anything else, but the failure rate per 100,000 units is actually about the same as anyone elses ballast. Fan cooled Ballasts tend to fail the most. Lumateks ballasts are fully potted inside and have no need for a fan.
maxmax7777
Member
thanks NoDrama, this is just what I am talking about folks....boots on the ground experiences...what works for you...specifically and why....thanks again NoDrama...Lets hear it people..... what bulb with what digital ballast? And how long are they lasting??????
litljohn
Well-Known Member
i just switched to a digital from a magnetic and its great.they are cooler,silent,and do put out more light,plus most digital ballasts will run mh and hps bulbs automaticly.the only downside to them is that they are a little more expensive but after you figure the less heat and more lumen out put they pay for them selves.also the higher frequency of the digital ballast will mess with the readings of some digital ph/tds pens so watch out for that.i had to move my ballast farther from the res to take good readings.if you want a digital ballast at a good price check out htg supply.com and check out the greenhouse digital ballast.i got the 600 watt ballast,bulb and socket/cord for 210 w/shipping,its not too much more for the hood if you need one