kaydeezee
Well-Known Member
Please my friend!!you want a link to the original H3AD thread? i think i have it saved somewhere for when i tried coco.
Please my friend!!you want a link to the original H3AD thread? i think i have it saved somewhere for when i tried coco.
you got it! wow, it's up to almost 200 pages now.Please my friend!!
do you up your P at beginning of buds forming? that's what i've read is most helpful. or all thru flower?From my experience, most plants don't need as high an amount of P as some of these nutrient companies would have you believe. I only up my P by 30 ppm at my nutrient strength.
The DR. Repair is just an Urea, iron EDTA combination. Don't really need the urea but do need some Iron EDTA in my mix with using RO.do you up your P at beginning of buds forming? that's what i've read is most helpful. or all thru flower?
then K becomes more important in establishing mass in the buds towards the end
while you are here, what does that dr repair do? and what's in it?
Don't sweat the run-off pH. Learn a little about ionic exchange between the roots and your nutrient solution and you'll understand why run-off isn't a good indicator of root pH.I bit the Bullet and bought some distilled water from my local supermarket , £1.06 ×5litre of "0"ppm water, I mixed 5litre of tap water with it and got a ppm reading of 120 down from 220? That should help with the extra calcium in my water & total ppm is now at 570.
My ph runoff is a little low to what I'm putting in? 5.8 in 5.4 out?? Maybe I have a salt build up from watering only once per day? When I go to water the next day the top coco is drying out & pot does feel half weight so' I think I'm going to split the 1.5litre feed each of 570ppm 'ph 5.8 into 2 watering 6hours apart to keep the coco/perlite wet?
Will post some pics later today before lights on!
My suggestion is to keep notes and you'll know how much to add and rarely have to use a meter to check pH. I can tell you for my mix it takes 3 drops of pH down per gallon for my veg mix and 5 drops of pH up per gallon of my flower mix. That gives me a pH of 5.9 for veg and 6.0 for flower.My bluelab ph pen just took a dive so' I'm left without any ph balance for a couple days! Hmm mm! I have 5 litre of distilled water with a ph of 6.4. so does anyone know how much ph will drop after 6/9 dose with 1g Epsom??
Thanks man! I've just started getting to know about npk ratios ppm and ph, I have a question : if my ppm is a lot higher than what's going in and the ph is .3 lower than what you put in what does this mean?after a few grows using the same nutes,, you rarely need to check ph,, and u can tell if its off by the look of ur plants..w/ gh maxi series i know when i fill the rez ph is 5.6 and i know every 3 days i need to top off, i also know that after 6 days my ph will be 6.1-6.2 so i add a quarter tsp of ph down to a 50 gallon rez to get ph back to 5.6.. im usually more concerned w my ppm,,as with every top off the ppm drops.. get to know the nutrients u use and how they affect ur waters ph,,after that u can usually predict what the ph is w/out checking..
woops! Forgot to upload more picturesI'm still seeing dark leaves on all 3 plants even though I've dropped my ppm to 480 with a minimal amount of N & I also booster Pk by 40ppm. For a more balanced Pk ratio? I would of thought after 5days of feeding 6/9 with Epsom I would if seen a reduction in the dark green? The new growth on the sour-d is coming out lighter green but will the lower leaves ever lighten up?
I'm a little wurried about the N levels stunting flowering? Any ideas guys?
I know what you mean, I was feeding up at 900 'then dropped to 6/9 at half strength per 2x gal =ppm 490/500. My ppm runoff is slowly coming down, it's at 680 now ? It's dropping about 50ppm per day by that eat it should be on point by Wednesday? Then I will slowly increase up to 3/4 strength and so on!That's part of the problem with running high ppm. Once you overfeed it takes some time for the excess to get removed. That's the reason why some on here and other sites think you have to flush.
Off topic but a topic non the less! I just got given 40g of exodus cheese from a friend that grows but said he had hermit problems and the buds are full of seeds
I was like' OK cool i will pick the little shuts out and smoke the free weed simple!
Once I started picking out all the seeds and 'when I say "all" I mean there was shit loads 'probably 5 seeds for ever gram of weed (200) seeds I found and most were dark brown and looked like most fem's I buy from reputable distributors.
This got me thinking about the strain I was smoking and weather I could grow out the seeds because thus is some killer weed?
The story behind the strain/seeds..
Original came from greenhouse seeds Co, grown from a pack of 10 exodus cheese, cloned mother, clones passed around local grower for some time in till my friend got hold if 10 clone's and grow them out. Mid way through the grow without any problems He started to notice seeds forming all over the 10 plants? He also said he had to swap up the floor after the harvest and the floor was covers with seeds lol. he still pulled 2 pound from 10 plants first run no bad.
So question: if I was to plant 20 of these seeds and' let's presume I get 6 plants that haven't grown "balls" to week 3 flower will I still have to be on the lookout for Nanners? Or is there a point of the plants life where I would be in the clear as to speak? Or is there a point during the transition to flower that I can determine the full sex of the plant and almost guarantee no seeds at the end if harvest?
Ive started germinating 10 of the possible herm seeds to see what comes out, maybe I will get lucky and find a keeper? What would be the best way to determine sex? I mean at what point would I flip the lights for them to show sex? 3wks after germination?a hermy can show up at anytime.. keep a watchfull eye..if the plant was passed around from a single clone then are you saying they all hermed,, if not your buddy might have stressed the plant w a light leak or somthing,,causing it to herm.. all females can be herms, some just need alot more stress to cause it... all feminized seeds are taken from a hermaphrodite female,, but most breeders stress test the female,, to be sure she does NOT herm out easily,, only strong females are forced to herm to make seeds.. all seeds have the possibility of herming even in perfect conditions...planting seeds off a herm,, are probably prone to herm out,, but there is a chance u get a strong female out of them...
I usually wait at least 4 weeks before I start checking for sex. If I'm in a hurry I'll take a cutting and stick it in flower before it's rooted.Ive started germinating 10 of the possible herm seeds to see what comes out, maybe I will get lucky and find a keeper? What would be the best way to determine sex? I mean at what point would I flip the lights for them to show sex? 3wks after germination?