Positivity
Well-Known Member
Pretty sure its a secure holder and lens in one. A bit pricey but available
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DIY COB reflectors
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
Yea 15 a pop wasn't nice but after looking st how the xml2/xpe reflectors are mounted I can't use them and screw in the sides of the stars at the same time, AND only my 660-665 xpes have the holes on the stars vs the 6 65 - 670s I already have mounted, and the xpls that are on their way- that don't. Bummer. I wanted to tinker and see if I could tell a difference in the amount of red/cool white I'm getting down to the same level as the ABs.
May just try adding more reds given drivers, and no huge amount of stretch. And I'll have 6 extra xml2s I could find space for. But honestly I dono if that'd help as much as narrowing the angle. The reflectors are only 2 bucks a pop but I don't see a way of getting em on. I considered reflectors on just the stars and leaving the cxas wide
May just try adding more reds given drivers, and no huge amount of stretch. And I'll have 6 extra xml2s I could find space for. But honestly I dono if that'd help as much as narrowing the angle. The reflectors are only 2 bucks a pop but I don't see a way of getting em on. I considered reflectors on just the stars and leaving the cxas wide
bicit
Well-Known Member
The lens I bought from fast tech was 'raised' enough on the inside of the lens to mount a vero 10 with socket cap bolts.
like these
https://www.boltdepot.com/Socket_cap.aspx
like these
https://www.boltdepot.com/Socket_cap.aspx
UKpeanuts
Well-Known Member
Made 2 of these bad boys last night from some 1mm ally.
I've got 3 lights running diagonally across my box so the 2 light at either end get a corner reflector each
Edit: Process;
1) drew 1:1 of alpine 11 in sketch up
2) drew the reflector in position
3) copied and moved reflector so it was on its own
4) flatted the reflector to a 2d shape using the protractor tool.
5) added dimensions and drew it out on the ally, then just cut and fold
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Positivity
Well-Known Member
Really nice...i was thinking the same thing but never actually got it done. Awesome!
Made 2 of these bad boys last night from some 1mm ally.
I've got 3 lights running diagonally across my box so the 2 light at either end get a corner reflector each
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
When I was testing a bunch of different paints I did note which ones had the worst fumes and it was the semi gloss and gloss, strong and lasted a long time. Thankfully the satin heat paint was one of the least smelly and you can drive off a lot of the volatiles buy "cooking" it under a heat lamp outside for awhile. They are zero odor within a short time. Same goes for the 2X satin with the 20% TiO2, I sprayed on the entire inside of my seedling/clone tote and it was zero odor within a few days, without "cooking". So any satin white should do well doesnt have to be high heat specifically.
I suspect polishing the Aluminum would be a lot more work than spray painting although it would be interesting the see the performance difference. When I paint I don't do anything fancy like surface prep, I just blast them with a few layers. The satin is easy to keep smooth/even and it is easy to make touch ups if ever necessary.
I suspect polishing the Aluminum would be a lot more work than spray painting although it would be interesting the see the performance difference. When I paint I don't do anything fancy like surface prep, I just blast them with a few layers. The satin is easy to keep smooth/even and it is easy to make touch ups if ever necessary.
CellarDweller
Well-Known Member
So are we thinking/assuming the square sided reflector might be better than the conical shaped? Forgive me if I have misunderstood the your enthusiasm Supra.....maybe I am mis-reading between the lines. I certainly like the idea of welding something to the heat sink like that.I'll keep an eye out for the spray on satin, as you probably noticed I gave it a rough up with some 40 grit in the hopes of improving difraction / diffusion.
thanksUKP
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
Got my reflectors and lenses in today. Pretty. Damn. Pumped. But, pretty sure I'm just going to use the reflectors on my smaller emitters and leave the cxa lenses for my larger build down the road. Too much work for as well off as it is already. I'd have to shift my cobs out a way from each other in the middle of the panel to fit the lenses and then I'd have to figure out how I wanted to orient my stars.
I immediately thought of my man greengenes when I saw these fuckers. Love the quality though and I am dead set on using them on my 3x3 build, I'll have much more space between cobs and that size space could really benefit from the angle (vs my tight cab the current build is in)
The pic of the lens on the cob is WITH the ideal holder, I think it could work and I think it's worth making it instead of soldering onto our precious cobs. You will just have to feed the wire between the black lens holder and lens itself. Doable, it'd leave a small gap, but I think if you put it next to the mounting screws it'd seal a bit better, with how the lens is made I don't see it affecting the focus.
I started mounting my Tina reflectors, having to shave the sides where the solder is at to get Em flush but no problem. (I suck at soldering)
@Positivity how long did you let yours cure before hanging em up? By the time I got the fifth on the first wouldn't move but read on some different brands to give em 24 hours.
Waiting on my blessed xp-ls that still haven't shipped. Gonna call fasttech later and see what's up then hopefully I'll see how much or little these helped.
Take care and for those of you considering larger builds keep those stellas in mind, great quality and surprised they are 93% efficient and made of silicone
I immediately thought of my man greengenes when I saw these fuckers. Love the quality though and I am dead set on using them on my 3x3 build, I'll have much more space between cobs and that size space could really benefit from the angle (vs my tight cab the current build is in)
The pic of the lens on the cob is WITH the ideal holder, I think it could work and I think it's worth making it instead of soldering onto our precious cobs. You will just have to feed the wire between the black lens holder and lens itself. Doable, it'd leave a small gap, but I think if you put it next to the mounting screws it'd seal a bit better, with how the lens is made I don't see it affecting the focus.
I started mounting my Tina reflectors, having to shave the sides where the solder is at to get Em flush but no problem. (I suck at soldering)
@Positivity how long did you let yours cure before hanging em up? By the time I got the fifth on the first wouldn't move but read on some different brands to give em 24 hours.
Waiting on my blessed xp-ls that still haven't shipped. Gonna call fasttech later and see what's up then hopefully I'll see how much or little these helped.
Take care and for those of you considering larger builds keep those stellas in mind, great quality and surprised they are 93% efficient and made of silicone
Positivity
Well-Known Member
@Scotch089
Wow..look at that thing! Guess its not a holder...it fits with a ideal holder?
A few hours at least with the silicone. 24hrs is about right though, it'll be solid after that.
Are the solder points strong..can you tug without them popping off? I used to have trouble...the big weller i got makes it easy. The extra hot iron could be trouble but i do less damage with a hot enough iron than one not quite.
Thanks for sharing and jumping in early on the stellas. I almost got them but i've been holding back lately. Can't wait to see how it works for you
Wow..look at that thing! Guess its not a holder...it fits with a ideal holder?
A few hours at least with the silicone. 24hrs is about right though, it'll be solid after that.
Are the solder points strong..can you tug without them popping off? I used to have trouble...the big weller i got makes it easy. The extra hot iron could be trouble but i do less damage with a hot enough iron than one not quite.
Thanks for sharing and jumping in early on the stellas. I almost got them but i've been holding back lately. Can't wait to see how it works for you
Scotch089
Well-Known Member
Yea I've checked and rechecked them while I've been waiting on these reflectors and the xpls, cleaned many of em up and got some excess solder off em.
I dono if it's made to go with the ideal holders because then the silicone isn't flush, but I don't see how they expect you to get any wires in to the cob whether your using the holder or not, it does fit really well though, the lens is big enough that the ideal holder fits inside the main portion and still had the lip for the screws to mount in. I'm curious if it WOULD hold the chip by itself though because it does not seem shaped on the inside to keep it in place, maybe they are just trying to rely on the thermal grease or even, the holders.
Thanks for the heads up I'm stoked to see how the relfectors go, hopefully I see the difference I'm wanting.
I dono if it's made to go with the ideal holders because then the silicone isn't flush, but I don't see how they expect you to get any wires in to the cob whether your using the holder or not, it does fit really well though, the lens is big enough that the ideal holder fits inside the main portion and still had the lip for the screws to mount in. I'm curious if it WOULD hold the chip by itself though because it does not seem shaped on the inside to keep it in place, maybe they are just trying to rely on the thermal grease or even, the holders.
Thanks for the heads up I'm stoked to see how the relfectors go, hopefully I see the difference I'm wanting.
Positivity
Well-Known Member
Just from what i can see in the pics...Yea I've checked and rechecked them while I've been waiting on these reflectors and the xpls, cleaned many of em up and got some excess solder off em.
I dono if it's made to go with the ideal holders because then the silicone isn't flush, but I don't see how they expect you to get any wires in to the cob whether your using the holder or not, it does fit really well though, the lens is big enough that the ideal holder fits inside the main portion and still had the lip for the screws to mount in. I'm curious if it WOULD hold the chip by itself though because it does not seem shaped on the inside to keep it in place, maybe they are just trying to rely on the thermal grease or even, the holders.
Thanks for the heads up I'm stoked to see how the relfectors go, hopefully I see the difference I'm wanting.
It supposed to fit a 3590 also, thats probably why the chip lok fits in there.
And..looks like a hole should be drilled through the heatsink for the wires. May be made for thermal adhesive or you could try and put 4 screws with washers as a holder
Could be wrong but it looks like it..
Shot of the datasheet on led positioning if you haven't seen it yet. Doesn't give any specific mounting instructions.
In case you want to try this, obviously not the first choice. They have a 30 psi version also. This one is 200 psi strength. The 30psi wasn't very secure so i wouldn't recommend it.
http://www.aitechnology.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=3&products_id=15
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tightpockt
Well-Known Member
I'm hoping someone smarter and frencher than me can make sense of this
http://www.lednlight.com/downloads_lnl/lednlight_en_CREE_CXA_3050_REFLECTOR.pdf
http://www.lednlight.com/downloads_lnl/lednlight_en_CREE_CXA_3050_REFLECTOR.pdf
doctorflux
Well-Known Member
The idea of combining a fresnel optic with a reflector is attractive since reflectors cannot do much to the very center of your beam, and a resulting hotspot will always be present. In theory, a fresnel can be added to reduce the intensity of the hotspot and get more of a batwing distribution, however the charts don't seem to indicate this.
SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
So @draz pointed out to me that the measurements indicated a tighter beam angle. I was having trouble understanding the formula (I need my hand held the first time for most things) but here is a simple calculator that can find the angles, distances or light circle diameter for us.
So the 44mm glass lenses that are for sale everywhere and are included with the Optic Lighting Vero18 model, generally claim to be 60 degree lenses. The glass is 44mm wide and about 19mm tall. From a distance of 12", I get a 19" diameter light circle, which works out to 77 degree lens. That is with the lens about 2mm away from a CXA3070. If you move the lens further away it will tighten the beam angle, increase lateral light losses and you get a more intense but smaller light circle. So now I will be able to test and characterize the actual angle of the different lenses that are available, or to estimate what angle lens we might want.
I am still a fan of reflectors. It makes sense that the light emitted from the center of the beam angle does not need to be redirected. So although there is a small penalty and scattering for for the photons that bounce off the reflector, at least it is not penalizing all the photons. Despite that, I am seeing near equal performance from both reflectors and lenses, but I have yet to test a top quality reflector, or top quality lens for that matter. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the DIY reflectors.
So the 44mm glass lenses that are for sale everywhere and are included with the Optic Lighting Vero18 model, generally claim to be 60 degree lenses. The glass is 44mm wide and about 19mm tall. From a distance of 12", I get a 19" diameter light circle, which works out to 77 degree lens. That is with the lens about 2mm away from a CXA3070. If you move the lens further away it will tighten the beam angle, increase lateral light losses and you get a more intense but smaller light circle. So now I will be able to test and characterize the actual angle of the different lenses that are available, or to estimate what angle lens we might want.
I am still a fan of reflectors. It makes sense that the light emitted from the center of the beam angle does not need to be redirected. So although there is a small penalty and scattering for for the photons that bounce off the reflector, at least it is not penalizing all the photons. Despite that, I am seeing near equal performance from both reflectors and lenses, but I have yet to test a top quality reflector, or top quality lens for that matter. It will be interesting to see how it compares to the DIY reflectors.
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SupraSPL
Well-Known Member
Now that it is a bit warmer I decided to try the satin spray paint with 20% TiO2 again Rustoleum 249843. This time it painted a smooth satin white coating. Must be that last time I tested it it was too cold because it gave me a flat finish (flocculation) . Looking forward to see if it will outperform the 10% TiO2 heat paint. Also noted that it dries quickly and with with very little odor.
I am testing a 44mm lens "60 degree" lens on a CXA3070 in the flower tent along with a few reflectors. The sharp cutoff of the lens is nice for COBs that are on the edge of the canopy and it definitely bumps us the intensity at bud sites deeper in the canopy. It gives you more control to put the light where you want it, although may require more vertical height
I am testing a 44mm lens "60 degree" lens on a CXA3070 in the flower tent along with a few reflectors. The sharp cutoff of the lens is nice for COBs that are on the edge of the canopy and it definitely bumps us the intensity at bud sites deeper in the canopy. It gives you more control to put the light where you want it, although may require more vertical height
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