DIY Halogen Vaporizer
- Thread starter Tanuvan
- Start date
yamin
Well-Known Member
going to buy a 20 w halogen...... will any halogen work or di i need to look for something special....
great thread
btw..... i work with brass an i can tell u from experience that the first sign of actual brass vapor will start from 2350 degrees centigrade..... no halogen on earth can reach that temp.....
what ever crap u r gting is coz of some other impurity either in ur setup or the brass itself
great thread
btw..... i work with brass an i can tell u from experience that the first sign of actual brass vapor will start from 2350 degrees centigrade..... no halogen on earth can reach that temp.....
what ever crap u r gting is coz of some other impurity either in ur setup or the brass itself
Yeah, I just tried this yesterday, and apparently the wood I got is not very fire proof. When I was doing the burn in, it bassically lit the wood on fire and it just kept smoldering until I poured water on it to put it out. Hopefully my light still works. Does anyone have any suggestions on what to get for the base?
Chumlie
Well-Known Member
how are you holding the light up with the brass fitting.. I could figure it out on my own if I had in front of me, but I don't.
I don't know if this the glass would bust, but what if you took a glass bowl ( the kind from the smoke shop) and put on top of the brass fitting.
Maybe score bit of it and cut it off so the tube wouldn't touch the light.
I don't know if this the glass would bust, but what if you took a glass bowl ( the kind from the smoke shop) and put on top of the brass fitting.
Maybe score bit of it and cut it off so the tube wouldn't touch the light.
thchero
Well-Known Member
first I squesed the fitting a little on on end to oval it then just put the light in the brass fitting and give a little twist i actually had to dremel a little of of the socket to get it to stay.i was thinking of putting a bigger bowl upside down on the brass and put a smaller one inside the tube of the big one but no money for that untill payday i will figre it out and post the results
I just made your vaporizer and it kicks ass...I think. I'm pretty high right now so something must be working. Just wondering about a few things. First few times I tried it the weed was burnt when I took it out. How long to you leave it on before trying to take a hit? Do you turn it off while you're hitting it? How much weed do you put in it? Thanks for the excellent plans man. Once I work out the kinks this this will be badass!
Ligerius
Well-Known Member
dude seriously do not use copper, it releases toxic fumes when burned. the reason it is safe when used in a pot or pan is because of the water or whatever else is absorbing the heat. i remember when i first started smoking and didnt have a pipe so i was gonna make one out of a copper pipe but luckily i looked online first and found out that copper releases toxic fumes when exposed to a flame.
Tanuvan
Well-Known Member
Yes, air comes from the base of the brass pipe...past the bulb (which is sitting in the pipe)...which heats the air...and vaporizes the herb.Guys, I have a question. When I drag, I cause a vacuum. Where does new air come from? Through the hole by the bulb?
By the way, sorry for my english, i hope you can understand (and help) me anyway.
Greetings from the Netherlands!
just built this vape pretty much as described by the OP
1st thing, it works great! never vaped before, but now i won't go back - no more tar in the lung for me
i did 2 things a bit different that may be off interest to others
for the wire connection to bulb, used electrical crimps, basically a metal ring that a special set of pliers compresses to form an electrical connection, safe and no bad vapors such as solder
and for the screen, i used a stainless steel strainer that i picked up at lowes - this works great! much coarser holes than screen, but seems to help produce a column of hot air that vaporizers excellently - put in coarse weed and after no trace of any odor left after vaporizing - no charing at all - rubbed the weed for any trace of the 'good odor', but basically smelled like nothing
1st thing, it works great! never vaped before, but now i won't go back - no more tar in the lung for me
i did 2 things a bit different that may be off interest to others
for the wire connection to bulb, used electrical crimps, basically a metal ring that a special set of pliers compresses to form an electrical connection, safe and no bad vapors such as solder
and for the screen, i used a stainless steel strainer that i picked up at lowes - this works great! much coarser holes than screen, but seems to help produce a column of hot air that vaporizers excellently - put in coarse weed and after no trace of any odor left after vaporizing - no charing at all - rubbed the weed for any trace of the 'good odor', but basically smelled like nothing
![IMG_0399[1].jpg](/data/attachments/450/450142-a6f507132e48fe4c15377b26d1f89dcd.jpg)
![IMG_0400[1].jpg](/data/attachments/450/450143-cb4622ab6eae87ba00c590edeb99dc97.jpg)
BluesRocker
Active Member
pre
tyzap
others
I don't see a screened in area, where do you put the herb? How does it stay in place if it's just sitting on top of that brass fitting?
tyzap
others
I don't see a screened in area, where do you put the herb? How does it stay in place if it's just sitting on top of that brass fitting?
holdemxpert
Member
If you dont mind spending a few dollars for quality and ease of construction, I like what I just built today (everything at Lowes unless noted):
Base is a red cedar post cap, Maine Ornamental Newport (4x4, flat top) $8.57
Utiltech 120 V 20 watt puck light $9.32
FEIT 100 watt halogen bulb G8 base $4.98
Lutron Slide Dimmer for CFL/LED/Halogen bulbs (this plugs into the wall, and the puck light plugs into this) $12.97
Inhalation tube (you could use a whip, but I just plugged in an 18" vinyl tube) $.40
3 inch stainless steel chinoise (fine mesh strainer) $6.95 chefstoys.net
The secret ingredient: 3" diameter x 1.75" stainless steel ring $4.80 chefstoys.net
Optional: Cooper DPP300W thermometer $22.10 chefstoys.net
Cost: $60 plus the thermometer if you want to use it.
Oxo Pop .9 qt acrylic container $10.99 Bed Bath Beyond
Tools:
Drill with a 2.5 or 2.75" hole saw and a bit that your tube will fit snugly in (1/16" narrower than the OD of a flexible tube or the same size for a stiff mouthpiece/tube)
Razor blade
Heavy duty bolt cutter or Dremel with a metal cutting blade
Optional: Circle cutter (I use a Dremel plunger router attachment)
Optional: 1/32" drill bit
Construction (time about 15 minutes because everything fits so well)
Drill a 2.5" hole in the center of the post cap, and cut a notch in the base for the cord from the puck light (razor blade, drill or Dremel sander)
Optional: Cut a 3" round groove centered on the 2.5" hole in the post cap, this holds the Stainless Steel ring in place, but isnt necessary if you arent prone to knocking the base
Cut a small piece (1/16" or so) from each corner of the top ledge of the post cap with a razor blade.
Remove the protective cover from the puck light and change to the 100W bulb
Drill a hole in the side of the Oxo Pop near the bottom (top when inverted onto the base)
Cut the chinoise" handle and "lip rest off", leaving about 3/8" on each side
Optional if your anal about temperature when your using it: Drill a 1/32" hole through the oxo pop and then through the Stainless Steel ring, right at the level of the top of the post cap. (Place the ring on the post cap and then invert the oxo pop onto it, drill the oxo pop and mark the ring, take the ring out and drill it separately)
Assembly:
Plug the puck light into the dimmer, turn the dimmer all the way off (push the slide toward the cord end) plug the dimmer into the wall
Place the post cap over the puck light, cord running through the notch
Place the stainless still ring in its groove, or center over the hole in the post cap
Place the chinoise inside the ring. Place whatever you're vaporizing in the chinois
Insert the tube/whip into the oxo pop
Invert the oxo pop onto the post cap. It will just fit (with the corners nipped off) and is pretty stable. You have to orient the chinoise handles diagonally inside the oxo pop)
Slide the optional thermometer into its holes.
Turn the dimmer up to about 80-85% and after 4-5 minutes you're ready to go with some very awesome vapor.
Assembled in this way the chinoise sits pretty far above the bulb. This keeps it from burning at the bottom. Meanwhile the stainless steel ring that surrounds the strainer heats up and supplies extra heat to vaporize all around the product. It also draws some heat away from the puck light and the wood base (though you may want to wet the base before each use so the base doesnt burn.) The hole for the puck light allows enough air if youve got good lungs. If not a couple of notches around the bottom of the post cap (like the cord notch) will make an easier draw. You could also drill an air hole or two vertically throught the post cap inside the dimensions of the inverted container.
I found at 80-85% of full power the interior of the strainer heats to 350 degrees F and maintains that temperature very well. If you dont use a thermometer you can judge by condensation inside the container vaporizing. You'll have to play with it a little if you dont use the thermometer while vaping. The container doesnt get hot at all, so any concern about using an acrylic container is off base imo.
Everything that gets very hot and/or touches your product is stainless steel, no aluminum
Base is a red cedar post cap, Maine Ornamental Newport (4x4, flat top) $8.57
Utiltech 120 V 20 watt puck light $9.32
FEIT 100 watt halogen bulb G8 base $4.98
Lutron Slide Dimmer for CFL/LED/Halogen bulbs (this plugs into the wall, and the puck light plugs into this) $12.97
Inhalation tube (you could use a whip, but I just plugged in an 18" vinyl tube) $.40
3 inch stainless steel chinoise (fine mesh strainer) $6.95 chefstoys.net
The secret ingredient: 3" diameter x 1.75" stainless steel ring $4.80 chefstoys.net
Optional: Cooper DPP300W thermometer $22.10 chefstoys.net
Cost: $60 plus the thermometer if you want to use it.
Oxo Pop .9 qt acrylic container $10.99 Bed Bath Beyond
Tools:
Drill with a 2.5 or 2.75" hole saw and a bit that your tube will fit snugly in (1/16" narrower than the OD of a flexible tube or the same size for a stiff mouthpiece/tube)
Razor blade
Heavy duty bolt cutter or Dremel with a metal cutting blade
Optional: Circle cutter (I use a Dremel plunger router attachment)
Optional: 1/32" drill bit
Construction (time about 15 minutes because everything fits so well)
Drill a 2.5" hole in the center of the post cap, and cut a notch in the base for the cord from the puck light (razor blade, drill or Dremel sander)
Optional: Cut a 3" round groove centered on the 2.5" hole in the post cap, this holds the Stainless Steel ring in place, but isnt necessary if you arent prone to knocking the base
Cut a small piece (1/16" or so) from each corner of the top ledge of the post cap with a razor blade.
Remove the protective cover from the puck light and change to the 100W bulb
Drill a hole in the side of the Oxo Pop near the bottom (top when inverted onto the base)
Cut the chinoise" handle and "lip rest off", leaving about 3/8" on each side
Optional if your anal about temperature when your using it: Drill a 1/32" hole through the oxo pop and then through the Stainless Steel ring, right at the level of the top of the post cap. (Place the ring on the post cap and then invert the oxo pop onto it, drill the oxo pop and mark the ring, take the ring out and drill it separately)
Assembly:
Plug the puck light into the dimmer, turn the dimmer all the way off (push the slide toward the cord end) plug the dimmer into the wall
Place the post cap over the puck light, cord running through the notch
Place the stainless still ring in its groove, or center over the hole in the post cap
Place the chinoise inside the ring. Place whatever you're vaporizing in the chinois
Insert the tube/whip into the oxo pop
Invert the oxo pop onto the post cap. It will just fit (with the corners nipped off) and is pretty stable. You have to orient the chinoise handles diagonally inside the oxo pop)
Slide the optional thermometer into its holes.
Turn the dimmer up to about 80-85% and after 4-5 minutes you're ready to go with some very awesome vapor.
Assembled in this way the chinoise sits pretty far above the bulb. This keeps it from burning at the bottom. Meanwhile the stainless steel ring that surrounds the strainer heats up and supplies extra heat to vaporize all around the product. It also draws some heat away from the puck light and the wood base (though you may want to wet the base before each use so the base doesnt burn.) The hole for the puck light allows enough air if youve got good lungs. If not a couple of notches around the bottom of the post cap (like the cord notch) will make an easier draw. You could also drill an air hole or two vertically throught the post cap inside the dimensions of the inverted container.
I found at 80-85% of full power the interior of the strainer heats to 350 degrees F and maintains that temperature very well. If you dont use a thermometer you can judge by condensation inside the container vaporizing. You'll have to play with it a little if you dont use the thermometer while vaping. The container doesnt get hot at all, so any concern about using an acrylic container is off base imo.
Everything that gets very hot and/or touches your product is stainless steel, no aluminum