DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Rare Dankness - Commerce City Kush (Chem 4 x Rare Dankness #1 (Triangle Kush x {Ghost OG x (Ghost OG x Chem Dawg)} BX2))

Quite a complex genealogy which I normally do not prefer, but despite that these are some good beans! Very strong chemmy OG fuel funk. Got 5 ladies to choose from. This particular lady #5 has nice thick nugs with plenty of frosting and the aroma is mega!
IMG_0067a CCK5.JPG
IMG_0065a CCK5.JPG
IMG_0065c CCK5.JPG
IMG_0076a CCK5.JPG
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Forgot to mention that. The pic is after 58 days of flowering and 2 days sitting in the dark waiting to get processed. Vegged for 2 months from well rooted clone size so you could call it a 2.5 month veg. Yes they are lanky ladies, except CCK#1 is a bit more indica. My favorite ladies are almost always long flopping branches with heavy nugs, luckily this is not a brittle one like my Sour Kush that I let go or even the Skywalker Kush that I lose. But the flavor is very similar to those.

This is CCK #2, lanky with heavy nugs so I had to flop the branches onto herself just to get them in the pic
IMG_0078b CCK2.JPG
IMG_0079a CCK2.JPG IMG_0081a Sharp2.JPG IMG_0081b Sharp2.JPG
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
@alef If 20K lumens for as cheap as possible is your goal, the Vero29 is your ticket. But if yolu want to bring efficiency into play, the CXA3070 AB gets it done better up to about 1400mA. Here are a few more driver options:
PLP-60-48 (1.3A for $16, dimmable) (I have one on order for testing)
HLP-80H-36 (2.3A for $34, dimmable)

Those are both open case which may not work for your design but very affordable. They both likely put out more current than advertised.
 

alef

Active Member
@alef If 20K lumens for as cheap as possible is your goal, the Vero29 is your ticket. But if yolu want to bring efficiency into play, the CXA3070 AB gets it done better up to about 1400mA. Here are a few more driver options:
PLP-60-48 (1.3A for $16, dimmable) (I have one on order for testing)
HLP-80H-36 (2.3A for $34, dimmable)

Those are both open case which may not work for your design but very affordable. They both likely put out more current than advertised.
Thank you Supra :)
and the efficiency is more for electricity consumption? because the delta in cost difference is ~$70 so i will have to burn led for 30 circules to depreciate the delta vs the cost of the electricity burned with higher consumptiom on vero 29. anything else rather than electricity i should link to the efficiency?

And one more thing... PLP-60-48 costs 30 at Newark. What is your preferable warehouse? I could not find this model for $16
Sorry for being a pain :)
 
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Thank you Supra (and others) for all your hard work on this. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on my first grow setup. My area is 3ft x 2ft which I will be doing four plants, likely ebb and flow, but possibly something simpler for my first attempt.

My current plan is to drive four 3000k CXA3070s with one 5000k in the center but I'm a bit concerned about the center blue not reaching the outer edges of my rectangular-ish setup. Would four 3000k and two central 5000ks be a better way to go? Efficiency is a concern so I would like to use 1.05a drivers. Cost is also a concern, but I want to error on the side of more than enough light in both terms of quantity and quality. No point in half assing it. Thanks in advance for anyone's thoughts/opinions!
 

Kuifje76

Well-Known Member
my guess, roughly :
6x@1050ma, you get 5.610lm/sqf for 6sqft (total 33.658lm)
5x@1050ma, you get 4.675lm/sqf for 6sqft (total 28.048lm)
calculated all 3000k AB bin's though, it will be a bit higher with the 5k

but just looking @lumens/sqf, my bet would be to go for 6 :)
drivers i don't have a clue, i'm always looking at meanwells for their efficienty, but 6 is a difficult number...

would be great to have a tool for people to just fill in a few numbers and combine everything (also driver eff., heatsink °C/W etc), maybe Supra can 'tune' my upload :)
 

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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Thank you Supra :)
and the efficiency is more for electricity consumption? because the delta in cost difference is ~$70 so i will have to burn led for 30 circules to depreciate the delta vs the cost of the electricity burned with higher consumptiom on vero 29. anything else rather than electricity i should link to the efficiency?

And one more thing... PLP-60-48 costs 30 at Newark. What is your preferable warehouse? I could not find this model for $16
Sorry for being a pain :)
All good Alef feel free to post your questions they help me and others learn also :leaf:

Lamp efficiency comes into play in many ways, heat is a big one. Using my example, with 2400W HPS I could barely keep the heat under control in a good size basement and using 1200W/1200W flip flop and a pair of high quality extraction fans. I had to run the fans on high which puts a strain on the tents because of pressure differential. I was trying to use the light efficiently but my yields were not that great, month after month. So if I wanted to increase my yields I would have to either sacrifice quality, install more fans/cool tubes, tubing and ventilation, install a larger AC system, get another space OR switch to high efficiency LED.

So I switched to a 650W/650W LED flip flop at about 45% efficiency and heat is well under control, yields have doubled and tripled in the exact same space. Quality has increased noticeably and they system never needs maintenance. The direct electrical savings is a very nice bonus, but the incidental electrical savings is huge. But as you can imagine, the electrical savings are a drop in the bucket compared to an increased yield. The reduced heat load is what allows me to pack more and more light into my space with no fancy cooling required. My ventilation fans are currently both set on low (120W total) and medium during the summer (140W total). The circulation fans are 65W ceiling fans. The system is running 24/7 365 and I work in there, so it is nice to have it as quiet as possible

That said, there is nothing wrong with your Vero design if your primary goal is to reduce up front cost and it is still a much better option than HPS in the medium to long term :)

I am not sure why Newark is gouging on the PLP. They are $16 at every other place I looked (TRC, Onlinecomponents, Powergate, Future etc)
 
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SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Thank you Supra (and others) for all your hard work on this. I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on my first grow setup. My area is 3ft x 2ft which I will be doing four plants, likely ebb and flow, but possibly something simpler for my first attempt.

My current plan is to drive four 3000k CXA3070s with one 5000k in the center but I'm a bit concerned about the center blue not reaching the outer edges of my rectangular-ish setup. Would four 3000k and two central 5000ks be a better way to go? Efficiency is a concern so I would like to use 1.05a drivers. Cost is also a concern, but I want to error on the side of more than enough light in both terms of quantity and quality. No point in half assing it. Thanks in advance for anyone's thoughts/opinions!
I assume you are adding the 5K because you want to be able to veg with it? (Sorry I am clueless about hydro, I think in terms of plants that can be moved from room to room.) If so, maybe you could add some Luxeon ES blues on a string and just click them off after the first 2 weeks of flowering. That way you won't have worry about color mixing and you can use the CXA3070 3000K AB bin X 5 (unfortunately the CXA3070 is hard to get in high bin 5000K). Also the Luxeon ES N4R are impressively efficient (60% min @ 700mA). I tested them against the M4R bin and the vendor is being truthful about the bin increase.

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-Luxeon-ES-ROYAL-BLUE-3-Watt-LEDs-Luxeon-ES-Royal-Blue.htm
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
calculated all 3000k AB bin's though, it will be a bit higher with the 5k

would be great to have a tool for people to just fill in a few numbers and combine everything (also driver eff., heatsink °C/W etc), maybe Supra can 'tune' my upload :)
A testament to the efficiency of the 3K AB, the 5K Z4 makes less lumens than the 3K AB because we don't have access to the top bin 5K.

You are right, it would be awesome if we could develop and easy to use system designer based on PAR W/ ft² and showing driver/heatsink options. I use about 15 PAR W/ft² for what I consider to be optimally sized buds. 30cm²/W for active cooling and 90cm²/W for passive cooling although we might be able to use less for active cooling by increasing fan speed, I am still experimenting with that. But I think we could put something together with a general consensus.
 

PurpleBuz

Well-Known Member
I assume you are adding the 5K because you want to be able to veg with it? (Sorry I am clueless about hydro, I think in terms of plants that can be moved from room to room.) If so, maybe you could add some Luxeon ES blues on a string and just click them off after the first 2 weeks of flowering. That way you won't have worry about color mixing and you can use the CXA3070 3000K AB bin X 5 (unfortunately the CXA3070 is hard to get in high bin 5000K). Also the Luxeon ES N4R are impressively efficient (60% min @ 700mA). I tested them against the M4R bin and the vendor is being truthful about the bin increase.

http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-Luxeon-ES-ROYAL-BLUE-3-Watt-LEDs-Luxeon-ES-Royal-Blue.htm
I plan on using some of the luxeon M 12 watt for supplemental blues all the way thru flower (during flower just turn on more 3K cobs)
check out their 30mm copperpad mounting :)
http://shop.stevesleds.com/Philips-Luxeon-M-ROYAL-BLUE-12-Watt-LEDs-Luxeon-M-RB.htm
 

Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
Where would be a good place to start a project of consensus? What format would be appropriate? Spreadsheets?

I might be thinking type far ahead but I would like to include 'popular' COBs, grow area, light patterns, passive versus Active cooling, veg and flower options, auxiliary equipment like power supplies. Trying to do a general solution but that maybe too much, at least in the start. Plant height, SOY yes or no, CO2. Just stream of conscience at this point.
 

alef

Active Member
All good Alef feel free to post your questions they help me and others learn also :leaf:

Lamp efficiency comes into play in many ways, heat is a big one. Using my example, with 2400W HPS I could barely keep the heat under control in a good size basement and using 1200W/1200W flip flop and a pair of high quality extraction fans. I had to run the fans on high which puts a strain on the tents because of pressure differential. I was trying to use the light efficiently but my yields were not that great, month after month. So if I wanted to increase my yields I would have to either sacrifice quality, install more fans/cool tubes, tubing and ventilation, install are larger AC system, get another space OR switch to high efficiency LED.

So I switched to a 650W/650W LED flip flop at about 45% efficiency and heat is well under control, yields have doubled and tripled in the exact same space. Quality has increased noticeably and they system never needs maintenance. The direct electrical savings is a very nice bonus, but the incidental electrical savings is huge. But as you can imagine, the electrical savings are a drop in the bucket compared to an increased yield. The reduced heat load is what allows me to pack more and more light into my space with no fancy cooling required. My ventilation fans are currently both set on low (120W total) and medium during the summer (140W total). The circulation fans are 65W ceiling fans. They system is running 24/7 365 and I work in there, so it is nice to have it as quiet as possible

That said, there is nothing wrong with your Vero design if your primary goal is to reduce up front cost and it is still a much better option than HPS in the medium to long term :)

I am not sure why Newark is gouging on the PLP. They are $16 at every other place I looked (TRC, Onlinecomponents, Powergate, Future etc)
Thank you very much, mate,
The efficiency is my next level then :) Now I will start my first expiricence and it will show the rest. right now I am using UFO china led (150W on the paper - ~90W in real) which brings me 33g per pet. Hope my results will be better with COBs.
 
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