DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

nvhak49

Well-Known Member
@nvhak49 Yes it can be done. DIY COB is very customizeable so you can build for minimal up front cost/medium efficiency, balanced cost/efficiency, high efficiency/high cost, or very high efficiency/very high cost.

The higher the efficiency the more electrical savings but probably even more importantly, huge heat reduction. The heat reduction can be due to COBs higher conversion efficiency than HPS, removing the infrared peak that occurs at 775nm with HID lamps, but mostly because you can get the same job done with so much less dissipation Wattage. This is thanks to the higher conversion efficiency, more efficient spectrum, reduced reflector losses and potentially a more even spread.

Here are some common designs for flowering
Vero29 with HLN-80H-42 (2.1A, 79W, 37.5% efficiency)
CXA3070 with 1.45A drivers (54W ea, 43.3% efficiency)
Those examples are very straight forward, one driver/COB

You can use drivers that run multiple COBs like the HLG-185H-C1400. They are dimmable, high quality, high efficiency and highly recommended to further reduce electricity and heat.

If you have questions about wiring check out the "how to power them sticky". There are threads dedicated to heatsink info and lenses/reflector info. Post up your build and questions. Good luck!
Thanks so much man lots of good info, I been reading like crazy about it all. Gonna start building my 4 cobs light here soon and I'll post pics on it once I've gotten everything for it and putting it together. Thanks again Supra!!
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
This thread costs me nothing but money! Just bought another 2 Alpines, going to use holders instead of adhesive this time...so 2 of those plus a tap and bit, 2 drivers..I'm waiting on the the chick from Aliexpress to tell me when she gets the AB's in stock. Unless anyone else knows if they're available somewhere for around the same price.
Totally different subject. I was thinking why go with the vero29 to save money on the COB when the driver (at 2.1a) is like $30 more and less efficient. I was thinking about doing a side by side: roughly 150 watts worth of cree cxa3070 z4's ( 3 cobs @15.a) vs, 160 watts of vero29 (2 cobs at 2.1) but fuq all that. My pocket's a little tight
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Thats a good point Im wondering how the cost and performance compares

Vero 29 X2 = $56
Pico X 2 = $3
HLN-80H-42 X2 = $90
Alpine11 X2 = 20
$169 for 158W @ 39.5% = 62.4 PAR W = $2.70/PAR W (draws 174W)

CXA3070 AB X3 = $120
Ideal X 2 = $3?
HLG-185H-C1400 = $70
AlpineX3 = $30
$223 for 156W @ 43.3% = 67.5 PAR W = $3.30/PAR W (draws 168W)

Not a huge difference in cost but CXA/HLG version gets you 12% more light/W.
 

tightpockt

Well-Known Member
Thats a good point Im wondering how the cost and performance compares

Vero 29 X2 = $56
Pico X 2 = $3
HLN-80H-42 X2 = $90
Alpine11 X2 = 20
$169 for 158W @ 39.5% = 62.4 PAR W = $2.70/PAR W (draws 174W)

CXA3070 AB X3 = $120
Ideal X 2 = $3?
HLG-185H-C1400 = $70
AlpineX3 = $30
$223 for 156W @ 43.3% = 67.5 PAR W = $3.30/PAR W (draws 168W)

Not a huge difference in cost but CXA/HLG version gets you 12% more light/W.
I just bought the ebay ones you linked for $11 a piece...that would be $33 for the drivers instead of $70
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
Hi everyone! Been reading page after page after page, and I'm ready to build my first Led project, big shout out to supraspl for dropping so much knowledge and expertise and taking the risk so we could reap the benefits.

I want to run my cxa 3070 at 100w a piece for a total of 800w from 8 drivers or run two a piece for a total of 200w from 4 drivers.

They will be cooled properly, I would like to know the electrical specs to do this.

Would I be better off with

8 meanwell cen 100-42
-or-
4 meanwell hlg-185
-or-
(is there a better driver?)

Also those drivers are pretty high in amps total would I be tripping my wall circuit which has is its own dedicated 15amp line?
 
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Dloomis514

Well-Known Member
i would do the meanwells. COBs will take whatever you give them for amps, until they fail. Isn't 2.28A too much for a 3070?
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
i would do the meanwells. COBs will take whatever you give them for amps, until they fail. Isn't 2.28A too much for a 3070?
They are both made by meanwell, and that's what I thought but I have seen several people running the 3070s with them. Which leads me to believe the cobs will. Only pull what they can.
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
They are both made by meanwell, and that's what I thought but I have seen several people running the 3070s with them. Which leads me to believe the cobs will. Only pull what they can.
No.
LED's are DC constant current. The exact opposite of what you are thinking. Seems like you are basing it off AC wiring characteristics...which is constant voltage.

When the you have a driver that puts out 1.4a DC...all of that will go through the cob/led...and the cob will pull what ever voltage it needs.
When the driver puts out 4amps and the cob is only rated for 2.8amps...well 4amps is still going to go through the cob.
 

Empherio

Active Member
re PC power supply- Ah well, that's too bad, but not unexpected. With all of the suggestions Supra and others have made, a lot of the guess work has been taken out of the question "Will this fucking work?" I was just hoping to recycle some of this trash in my attic! At least I don't have to buy any new Arctic 11's!
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
No.
LED's are DC constant current. The exact opposite of what you are thinking. Seems like you are basing it off AC wiring characteristics...which is constant voltage.

When the you have a driver that puts out 1.4a DC...all of that will go through the cob/led...and the cob will pull what ever voltage it needs.
When the driver puts out 4amps and the cob is only rated for 2.8amps...well 4amps is still going to go through the cob.
OK, thank you, I will keep that in mind, but has anyone been able to find if I can successfully run the 3070 cobs at 100w a piece(8 drivers) ? Or two cobs at 200w(4 drivers) for a total of 800, still Need the right drivers to get the job done.
 
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SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
OK, thank you, I will keep that in mind, but has anyone been able to find if I can successfully run the 3070 cobs at 100w a piece? Or two cobs at 200w which out breaking a 15amp circuit

Why run them that hard? You need some math. 15amps = 1800wats of potential load. I would think 200 is fine.

Good reading material:
http://101science.com/Radio.htm

You should have at least a basic understanding before attempting a build or it could be extremely difficult.
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
Why run them that hard? You need some math. 15amps = 1800wats of potential load. I would think 200 is fine.

Good reading material:
http://101science.com/Radio.htm

You should have at least a basic understanding before attempting a build or it could be extremely difficult.
Exactly why I am here, thanks for your help bro, I'm Not buying anything until I fully. Understand the electrical Aspect of this. Ok did some reading an forgot a few deets when reading that the cobs will only pull at 38.4v and max at 2. 8 amps, so to get 100w per cob I need a driver capable of 38.4v x 2.5amps = 95w, I will probably go with the cen-100-42, unless anyone specifies otherwise.
 

ReeferDance

Well-Known Member
If you are looking to run them hard I believe Supra and several other guys have stated that the Vero 29 may be more suitable then the CXA3070.

I think the Vero may get you closer to what you are looking for :)

Why not go for a target of 80 watts per COB? much easier to achieve and may save you a few bucks, not to mention allow the LED's to last a little longer. Remember, we are running these for a pretty large chunk of time, 18 hours on these LED's is no joke when it comes to the heat they can produce. Especially when run at 2+ Amps
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
If you are looking to run them hard I believe Supra and several other guys have stated that the Vero 29 may be more suitable then the CXA3070.

I think the Vero may get you closer to what you are looking for :)

Why not go for a target of 80 watts per COB? much easier to achieve and may save you a few bucks, not to mention allow the LED's to last a little longer. Remember, we are running these for a pretty large chunk of time, 18 hours on these LED's is no joke when it comes to the heat they can produce. Especially when run at 2+ Amps
i saw the veros they were a heck of a lot cheaper but rom what supra said they arent as efficient or nice on the spectrum balance, if i do get the vero 29's which ones do i get the 3000K or higher, i read several places the 3000K is not the same as the CXA 3000K
 

ReeferDance

Well-Known Member
I believe they are similar enough that you wouldn't notice a massive difference. I'm sure Supra could delve into this a little more.

And yes, 3000k seems to be the best spectrum for flower so far. But IMO I think a mix of 4000k and 3000k would be ideal to balance out the 3000k's lack of blue for veg. Again that is my opinion and I am currently building a light with 4 Vero 18's at 4000k and 1 or 2 Vero 29's at 3000k. And that is only if you are planning on using the same light through veg/flower.
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
I believe they are similar enough that you wouldn't notice a massive difference. I'm sure Supra could delve into this a little more.

And yes, 3000k seems to be the best spectrum for flower so far. But IMO I think a mix of 4000k and 3000k would be ideal to balance out the 3000k's lack of blue for veg. Again that is my opinion and I am currently building a light with 4 Vero 18's at 4000k and 1 or 2 Vero 29's at 3000k. And that is only if you are planning on using the same light through veg/flower.
hmm interesting, yea i know supra will have the answer he always seems too, and yea i want to use the same light from veg to flower i was planning on slapping on 1 xpe2 blue and 1 xpe2 deep red next to each cxa 3070 or vero just to add soem extra spectrum and also have them on a switch, so the blue will be on during veg and red off and red on and blue off during veg.
 

SomeGuy

Well-Known Member
You lose all efficiency running them at 2amps. You would be better off running vero18 but way more of them softer. Running beyond 1.4 is really pointless IMO. Supra prob say the same w more detail. I got t bum hand
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep, at 80-100W you would be better off to consider the Vero 29 or the CXA3590, it will be cheaper/ PAR W and more efficient. SDS found a very good driver for that size, the Mean Well HLN-80H-42. Dimmable and puts out 2.1A so that would be 79W for a Vero 29. There is a cheaper, open case version HLP-80H-42

As far as spectrum, CXA3000K is a good one size fits all but the Vero 3000K is lower on blue, higher on red. So if you are flowering stretchy ladies you might not want to go with Vero3K. A;so, if you are considering using a lens (highly recommended at 79W) it shifts the color about 500K warmer, so a Vero 4000K might be a good choice in that case.

There are other drivers that would allow you to really crank the current, but the law of diminishing returns starts to kick in as you go higher and at some point you would be much better off with HPS.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Hey guys, I have a few questions.... Do I need to use kapton tape if I will mount CXA3070 on Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Plus? And what is best Arctic Silver 5 or http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Free-shipping-7g-high-performance-gray-GD900-thermal-conductive-compound-grease-paste-silicone-for-CPU-GPU/1717051858.html ?
Yes you would need to paste it then strap it in place with kapton, or use the COB holders +paste + drill and tap. The Prolimatech PK3 and Arctic MX4 has both performed well in my tests but I have not tried AS5. I expect it would work fine though. The paste you linked has less than half the conductivity of PK3 but would still probably work well.
 
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