DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Yes cb is top bin in 4000k but thought 3000 was the way to go so I don't get why that would be top bin as far as growing is concerned seems to me there is a lot of blue in that and lacks red. you can keep them lol. Top bin for 300 would be BD correct?
 
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Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
You were right I was looking at the cxa3590. I have waaay to many data sheets open. Thanks for your patience. Was hoping you could help me out a little. Want to replace a 1000w digital running at 75% so 750w of hid. How many chips of these top bin cxb3590 should I go with over my 4x4 sprog area. I run 2 area 51 Xgs and 2 rw 150 over that area now and am very impressed but can't swallow another 6 grand for he other 4x4 scrogs. What would you recommend and how should I drive them?
 
EfficientWatt

EfficientWatt

Well-Known Member
If you just want a replacement regardless of efficiency, you could drive your cobs harder, but these are examples of pretty efficient setups (using MW HLG drivers, efficient, but caution /!\ High Voltage /!\):

9 CXB3590 @ 700mA would probably give you quite a bit less light than 750W HID, but save ~300W of electricity ..

12 CXB3590 @700mA isn't best if your grow area is square, but would be pretty close in terms of light output. (~600W of led light)

16 CXB3070 (AD bin) is what I would go for. With HLG 185 1400, you could choose anywwhere between ~400 and ~800w of light (thats a lot of light with those cxb's ..)

But DIY means it's kind of, all upto you really ...
 
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Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
I am an electrician by trade so used to the voltage. Appreciate the info. I was thinking about running a pair of 4 on 40 inch heat sinks at 1 A each. I have to look into calculating efficency with these but I do understand the basic calc just need to figure out the whole part watt efficency thing. I'm hoping supra sees this soon and chimes in on what he thinks would be the optimal setup as far as coverage and efficency for my setup. In the mean time back to reading and self educating lol
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Assuming you are referring to a fresh 1000 HPS hortilux or similar, I would call it 36% efficient so that is 360PAR W * .75 for reflector losses = 270 PAR W or 17 PAR W/ft². You will not need the same amount of COB PAR W to match the performance of the HPS due to better spread of the COBs and better spectrum.

In your 4X4:
(12) CXB3590 3000K CB driven by (3) HLG-185H-C700B (700mA) = 304 PAR W, 19 PAR W/ft² - 10% lens/reflector = 17 PAR W/ft²

(15) CXB3070 3000K AD driven by (3) HLG-185H-C1050 (1050mA) = 280 PAR W, 17.5 PAR W/ft² - 10% lens/reflector = 15.8 PAR W/ft².

At 700mA your 72V CXB3590s would be running at 49W ea and would hugely benefit from a reflector or lens IMO, but this results in the 10% decrease in PAR W in the canopy. To avoid that you could use smaller COBs such as CXB2530 or CXA/CXB3070 but even those may benefit from a short reflector.

I run at 14-15 PAR W/ft² and have been very happy with that light intensity. Potential for very big nugs.
 
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Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Thank you very much. Really appreciate it. I didn't explain myself very well. Thank you for showing me the calcs. Is there a certain number of these babies I can use to replace a 750w hps PERFORMANCE wise with less wattage? I know if I replaced 750w hps with cobs they would most likely smash it but what could I get away with at a minimum to get similar results? Thanks again guys you've been a great help. Like my 4 area 51 leds do better then a 1000w hps in my setup and has better quality with about the same yield. Would like to do that with these cobs and get less heat as well.
 
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Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
I was hoping I could do 3 of these 4x4 areas for around 2 grand but the way it's looking it doesn't really sound possible. That's a ton of money in chips
 
B

Blahman501

Member
SupraSPL said:
I have always been of the mindset that I would be keeping clones of the best stuff I came across, so I needed a separate veg space right from the start and got used the that as "the way". So I have to remind myself to think from other peoples POV that run autos or don't keep clones. But having a separate veg space does allow you to get harvests every 2 months which is nice. For those who are impatient or testing a lot of varieties, if you set up a pair of flower rooms and flip flop the light schedule you get a harvest every month. That is great but may be hard to keep up on over a long period of time. Some growers will stagger the age of the plants in their flower room to get a harvest every month which is great idea, but the flip flop effectively cuts your heat in half.

You can veg a lot of cannabis with a small amount of light. I use 110W for veg and 1300W for flower. So if you have a separate flower room, the vast majority of the wattage would be in there. You could use 5000K Vero 10s for veg and 3000K CXA3070s or Vero 29s for the flower area. The ABs have been popping up here and there, Arrow and Ali, I can help you track some down.
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Supra/Kuigje76, thanks for the info as usual. Life got in the way, so I apologize for my long delay. I've been considering it carefully, and have decided to go ScroG for my first setup. My intention is create two 2.5 x 2' cabinets, each containing 1 large plant or possibly 2 smaller plants, whatever it takes to fill the 5 sq-ft of screen. I would like each cabinet to be capable of both vegging and flowering in order to avoid having to deal with moving screens. I may eventually try hydro as well, so I want my setup to be futureproof for that as I imagine moving that setup would be even more of a pain.

That all being the case, would four 3000k CXA3070s and one center 5000k at 1.05a do the job for each cabinet? I'd like to error towards more light than less, but cost is a concern. In that vein, could I get away with sharing a driver (ie, veg mode all 3000ks and flower mode only single 5000k using one of the 3000k drivers) or is it advantageous to have a driver for each COB to run all 5 lights simultaneously for one or both of the growing phases?

Appreciate your thoughts and expertise! This thread is a wealth of creativity and good info,
 
K

Kuifje76

Well-Known Member
Blahman501 said:
Supra/Kuigje76, thanks for the info as usual. Life got in the way, so I apologize for my long delay. I've been considering it carefully, and have decided to go ScroG for my first setup. My intention is create two 2.5 x 2' cabinets, each containing 1 large plant or possibly 2 smaller plants, whatever it takes to fill the 5 sq-ft of screen. I would like each cabinet to be capable of both vegging and flowering in order to avoid having to deal with moving screens. I may eventually try hydro as well, so I want my setup to be futureproof for that as I imagine moving that setup would be even more of a pain.

That all being the case, would four 3000k CXA3070s and one center 5000k at 1.05a do the job for each cabinet? I'd like to error towards more light than less, but cost is a concern. In that vein, could I get away with sharing a driver (ie, veg mode all 3000ks and flower mode only single 5000k using one of the 3000k drivers) or is it advantageous to have a driver for each COB to run all 5 lights simultaneously for one or both of the growing phases?

Appreciate your thoughts and expertise! This thread is a wealth of creativity and good info,
Click to expand...
Don't thank me, i got nothing to do with this, if the cops fall in, pin-point supra not me ;)
'would four 3000k CXA3070s and one center 5000k at 1.05a do the job for each cabinet' that was my initial plan, i'd go for that setup on 1 HLG-185h-c1050B and a high turn pot, you'd need 100K for 1, supra made me buy this (but it's 50k for 2 drivers at once), it's all his fault lol
 
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C

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
Ladies and Gentlemen (well I hope there are ladies here......would be kind of nice),

The final parts arrived and I am now in construction mode. Whilst this goes on (and I ask my terribly handy father-in-law to beat the complexity out of my design) I have a final question.

If I have 8 LPC-60-1400, running in Europe at 220V, with 1.2A input......then I have a total amp of 9.6 and could theoretically run off a single AC wall socket.

Are there people here that would strongly advise against this and suggest using a single AC connector per driver linked to a multi-socket that has EMI? Or is there a neat and tidy way of connecting all 8 drivers to 1 AC plug?

As ever, I thank you in advance for your advice and cannot wait to share the pictures soon :)
 
the dopest

the dopest

Well-Known Member
Just finished reading tis entire thread...I have four CXA3070s AD bin and a 24"x24"x60" closet. I'm waiting on the 1500ma drivers and holders to arrive, then I can get started. Thanks to everyone that posted, I have learned a lot!
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
Go to an electric supply store and tell them you want terminal blocks. You want 2 for each driver. So you land the 240 in the first set of blocks then jumper both lines to the next set of blocks and so forth until you have the number of pairs for all the drivers. Then simply land the leads for the drivers on the opposite side you put the jumpers in. Makes a nice clean proper setup.
 
Getgrowingson

Getgrowingson

Well-Known Member
From an electrical point of view no problems running that on a normal plug in the wall either. I'm not from the uk but at 220 should not be a problem at all
 
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