DiY LED - Cree CXA3070

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avnewb

Well-Known Member
NapalmD said:
That's strange avnewb when I ordered mine from jameco they first said they drop ship from meanwell every Tuesday and Friday, then when I ordered she said they would ship the following week . needless to say they were shipped the next day after my phone call on Thursday with a delivery date of this Wednesday.
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Thanks, good info. Did you order HLG-185H-C1400A? Maybe all set and just cause was a Friday or maybe meanwell has a backlog.
I cant go to flower until I get them so hope they come. At same time cant go to flower until I figure out odor control. But they are starting to get fairly big. I dont think I can veg another month...well im sure I can but going to max out the height of my light.
 
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reasonevangelist

Well-Known Member
avnewb said:
Ya, I have been going back and forth with it as seems to make more sense to power them at 5v and figure the rest out with other fans.

I agree, thinking the fans will help with circulation is stupid and plan to get external fans to move air around.

Area is ~44" x 18 ft so not small. Headroom drops from 8' to zero on about 8 feet of room, the rest is 8' hight.

Currently using a honeywell turboforce fan from the ground pointed at the 30 Vero 10 "passive" heatsink light I made and room peaks around 82 to 84 but drops down to 61 (with heat off) which is more than I want it to so will probably program heat to come on during lights off....





I am doing it wrong but havent finished the room yet as just started a few months ago. Put a wall up, hung shelves on it and created the room. Covered wall in panda film and roc-lon blackout curtain. Final part is figuring out ventilation and odor control

I dont want to intake from outside or it will be too cold in winter and too hot in summer.

Plan was to use soffets as intakes from adjacent unfinished basement room with PVC J pipe to keep light out.

Just not sure how/where to vent yet.

I had bought a temp controlled fan to exaust clean air back into same unfinished room but I dont think it has the power to do that even with 3 more that can be added to it as im sure I wont properly remove smell 100%.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QFWLGPU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Maybe something like this that runs a proper fan that can pull thru air thru a good filter so no smell and exhaust outside.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But I might need exhaust running 24/7 for smells, however I cant have the room get too cold in winter which is why I felt I needed something that would regulate the temp.

Or figure out a way to exhaust out sewage vent pipes or some shit...

IDK, work in progress. Hope to finish soon but struggling with the ventilation aspects as need smell to be 100% removed because there is a finished guest bedroom right next to secret room.

Sorry to get OT.
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Passively intake from inside, Actively exhaust scrubbed and lamp-heated air... to wherever you think is your best 'blending' option. Blowing hot air into a cold roof is a no-go. You don't want to be the only house on the block with no snow on their roof. You could potentially pipe it so that the scrubbed exhaust gets pulled into your central HVAC, and redistributed 'as if nothing happened.'
 
NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
avnewb said:
Thanks, good info. Did you order HLG-185H-C1400A? Maybe all set and just cause was a Friday or maybe meanwell has a backlog.
I cant go to flower until I get them so hope they come. At same time cant go to flower until I figure out odor control. But they are starting to get fairly big. I dont think I can veg another month...well im sure I can but going to max out the height of my light.
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Yes, I ordered two HLG-185H-C1400A's
I'm sure they'll come soon.
 
NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
I just went on the site @avnewb and i see it does say march delivery where it didnt say that when I ordered this past wednesday. BUT they are 5 bucks cheaper?
 
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avnewb

Well-Known Member
reasonevangelist said:
Passively intake from inside, Actively exhaust scrubbed and lamp-heated air... to wherever you think is your best 'blending' option. Blowing hot air into a cold roof is a no-go. You don't want to be the only house on the block with no snow on their roof. You could potentially pipe it so that the scrubbed exhaust gets pulled into your central HVAC, and redistributed 'as if nothing happened.'
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Radon pipe goes out the wall and up side of house and vents outside but not going to do that...
Will just install exhaust to outside. Didnt want to but think its the only option.


NapalmD said:
I just went on the site @avnewb and i see it does say march delivery where it didnt say that when I ordered this past wednesday. BUT they are 5 bucks cheaper?
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You paid $70? Need a price tracker for this stuff. I decided to get 10 so would be $59.

When I ordered it looked like the Bs do just said 5 not 4 like this, now shows 7 weeks.
  • Availability:Ship 5 Days ARO
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=2189345&storeId=10001&krypto=vFgRhKXJZKuM8sLfuPRmxv3tw+Np1UpMkxDopGGeProkTMkU7QJEDwRlBl5ZBuuI&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
 
NapalmD

NapalmD

Well-Known Member
avnewb said:
Radon pipe goes out the wall and up side of house and vents outside but not going to do that...
Will just install exhaust to outside. Didnt want to but think its the only option.




You paid $70? Need a price tracker for this stuff. I decided to get 10 so would be $59.

When I ordered it looked like the Bs do just said 5 not 4 like this, now shows 7 weeks.
  • Availability:Ship 5 Days ARO
https://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10001&langId=-1&productId=2189345&storeId=10001&krypto=vFgRhKXJZKuM8sLfuPRmxv3tw+Np1UpMkxDopGGeProkTMkU7QJEDwRlBl5ZBuuI&ddkey=https:StoreCatalogDrillDownView
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No, I paid 153 shipped for two.
69 and change each + 13.14 shipping.Now there 65. Bogus! lol
 
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Helmuth

Active Member
Hey guys,
i think here are some people with best led-grow-knowledge on the net ;),
so i hope i can ask you something:
what do you think about these LEDs:

Cree cxa1520 33w

I want the 3000k 93 CRI, because i think the spektrum is nice.
I planed to run 2 of them with a 20w driver at 600mA each.
On the Cree Website they say you can run them with a maximum power of 33W.
I only want them to support my 80w panel during flowering.

I thankful for hearing your opions on this.
Best regards,
Hemuth
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Helmuth said:
Hey guys,
i think here are some people with best led-grow-knowledge on the net ;),
so i hope i can ask you something:
what do you think about these LEDs:

Cree cxa1520 33w

I want the 3000k 93 CRI, because i think the spektrum is nice.
I planed to run 2 of them with a 20w driver at 600mA each.
On the Cree Website they say you can run them with a maximum power of 33W.
I only want them to support my 80w panel during flowering.

I thankful for hearing your opions on this.
Best regards,
Hemuth
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These ones? If so, $20 ea and they are approx 30% efficient at 600mA. Just one example, you could get even better performance with Vero18s for $12 each. If you ran Vero18s at 600mA, they would be over 40% efficient. That is 33% more photons/W and 33% more bud :eyesmoke:

I understand there is a school of though that high CRi has "mojo" but there are a few problems with that theory. Not long ago most of us were using HPS. Very poor CRi but decent buds for sure. As an LED grower I was using red/white/blue panels. Terrible CRi but even better nugs than HPS. Then I switched to 80 CRi warm whites and the nugs were still great, but there was no improvement in nug or trichome quality. Based on that evidence I suspect that plants do not care about CRi and it really hurts efficiency to make white LEDs over 70-80 CRi.

So either way you go, the LEDs will grow great nugs and good luck with your build!
 
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Helmuth

Active Member
Hi,
thank you for answer.
I dont want them for the CRI-value itself, it is becasue they are emeting more and better red light (i think), their main peak is about 640 nm if you look at the spectrum in the datasheets (3000k CRI 93).
But if i run the Vero18 there will be more photons/W, so the more photons the better for the plant, even if the light-quality is "worse", right?

Best regards,
Helmuth
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yes that is correct. In terms of red percentage the high CRi spectrum looks pretty good. But in terms of photon output, the 80 CRi has a huge advantage.
Thanks to @MrFlux
vero10 spectral power.png

You could add your own high efficiency deep reds and get the best of both worlds, but
I have tried that and to be honest it is expensive, a lot more work and I cannot really say that I am seeing any improvement over the CXA3070 3000K 80CRi but i don't know for sure yet. The Vero 3000K 80 CRi has more red than the CXA, but it has less blue.
 
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Helmuth

Active Member
Thank so much, you really helped me!

so your choise woud be the Vero18, or is there a COB with more photons/W that you could advise me.
Best regards,
Helmuth
 
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SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I ordered from them once and no complaints. I think there is a discount code kicking around. Mybe this one still works:
10% off, Code: CPFer
 
Bueno Time

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
Your tellin me DonP, I been waiting for my driver for driving single Vero 10s for a friggin month from fasttech, last order from them took 2 weeks...

Only thing holding my new build up too pisses me off a little every day the mail comes without it.
 
A

avnewb

Well-Known Member
nvhak49 said:
Another noob question what height above the canopy do you guys run these cobs?
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I have had to keep mine at least 12" above the canopy. With dimmers that might change, IDK.


EDIT 99:
FAILED
Not worth reading as not going to make cone reflectors anymore...

I wasnt sure if I could tig weld flashing and I cannot. My first time welding was the vero10 lamp so sort of new to it.

I could still do the conical reflectors with the flashing using rivets or tape, or crimping the ends.
But I think my plan is to make a hood around the edge of the ~34x84 inch light frame with 8 or 10" flashing; using a bender ideally to make long flat lengths. I could also use 1/16th aluminum sheets but It will cost more.
Either way will be 100 times easier than making 21 of these half cones.

Got good price on aluminum bars from Grainger to weld it all together. Hopefully build it this weekend and get it wired up next weekend when I get the drivers.

//edit99




Working on making reflectors for Vero 29s.
Light will be 3 rows of 7 spaced roughly 14" apart.
Was thinking 90* for center will be fine but thinking I might want to go a bit steeper for the ones close to the walls. They will be roughly 7" off walls.

6 of the 21 COBS will be CXA3070 so I may actually want those reflectors to be 120 to allow better spread.

If light was 8" above canopy then the cutoff from a 90 degree reflector would be fine (assuming a flat canopy), but I have been keeping it higher than that, more like 12" so I think a 70* one would work better.

Thoughts? Just make all ~90* will be good enough? Would probably be easier to make them all the same.

EDIT
It is also easier to figure out when its 90*. It would be a 2.2" diameter circle at top to fit around ~2" vero29 and 6.2" diameter at bottom with it being 2" tall.

Also now thinking anything over 120 might not be ideal due to most of the light coming out between 120. So a 120 would just prevent the small amount of light that comes out past 120 to angle downwards...
Panda film on walls.
I got high temp white grill paint to paint them assuming it is flat.

Figure about 2" tall will be fine.

Edit2
this is a 90 two inches tall. Think maybe too tall as looks like the first test I did.

1423013813535.jpg

1423013859567.jpg

Edit3

This is a 90* that is 1.7" tall. Makes it 5.6" diameter bottom of reflector (still 2.2" diameter at COB).

1423015800579.jpg

1423015997806.jpg


/edits
 
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