DIY LED Help

DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Hello, everyone. Please bare with me as i am just starting to get a grasp on the whole DIY subject. I love LEDs after seeing how efficient they are and sampling the quality bud produced by @DonTesla using a 400w chinese panel. Now, i could go the same route and order a couple mass-produced chinese panels but my inner tinkerer wants to build something. I also realize the fact that DIY projects can be built to run at optimum efficiency. That is what hooked me. Now, this is where it may get a bit confusing. I was looking to use an Arctic Alpine 11 Plus cpu heatsink with fan as the base for my project. http://m.ebay.ca/itm/171377110550?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
171377110550_1.jpg
Next, i want to mount a 50w warm white LED in the center. It is sold as a led/driver combo. http://m.ebay.ca/itm/161320290192?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
s-b200x150.jpg
I then want to mount at least 5 - 3w 660nm stars around the center lamp. http://m.ebay.ca/itm/191291948380?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE191291948380_1.jpg
Using this driver as the power source http://m.ebay.ca/itm/160887219004?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
160887219004_7.jpg
I have enough old cell phone chargers to use as a power supply for the fan on the heatsink. So i have a few questions for the knowledgeable folks here in the LED forum.

1. Will i be able to fit the 50w lamp and at least 5 of the 3w chips on the heatsink as planned? (Stupid question but its hard for me to really tell the size of these units just by the pictures and vague descriptions.)

2. When selecting a driver, when does the stated wattage come into play? (For example, if i want to run 5-3w chips in series do i need a driver with a stated wattage of close to 15 watts?)

3. Would i be better off to scrap the 50w and instead incorporate these warm white Cree chips into the array with the deep reds? http://m.ebay.ca/itm/191218521983?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
191218521983_1.jpg
Using this driver for the above chips http://m.ebay.ca/itm/161320347325?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
161320347325_1.jpg
Any help is much appreciated and please feel free to post pics of you DIY builds to help me further understand the process.
Peace!!!
 
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Skaumannen

Well-Known Member
The heatsink will not be large enough. And i would rather build with cree leds, or some other manufacturer that present some stats. That way you know what to expect. Is your plan to replace your lighting or to supplement?
If you plan on replacing I would use the 3070 cxa from cree and supplement with a bar with different spectrum stars.
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Just looking to supplement really. Im doing this on a budget so what would you suggest to use on the posted heat sink?
 
FranJan

FranJan

Well-Known Member
Don(s), if ya want my .02, please don't buy LEDs on Ebay. You just don't know what you're getting and those white arrays aren't very useful in flowering and are a pain in the ass to cool to get the most out of them. The bins on those XT-Es could be bottom of the barrel. You just don't know. If your going DIY do what others are doing and stick with CREE and Bridgelux but at the same time no one said you have to use a 3070/Vero 29. Use their smaller offerings which in many cases are more efficient than those monster COBs I mentioned. Or try Luminus Devices, Citizen, Philips COBs. Look at the Vero 18 thread for inspiration. Much better options exist than Ebay's offerings. You could do something like this.

http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CXM-18-30-80-36-AA00-F2-3virtualkey65110000virtualkey896-18308036AA00F23
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/30W-watt-led-driver-Power-Supply-AC-100-265-V-900-mA-DC-20V-40V-Waterproof-IP65-/201040143969?pt=US_Lighting_Parts_and_Accessories&hash=item2eceed2661
http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Heat-Sink-for-20W-30W-50W-LED-/181530916043?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a4415f4cb
If your on a budget don't tread over ground others have covered and found not to be as fertile as needed because that's a waste of money and time. But if ya just want to experiment, then fuckit, God bless your endeavors. Good Luck!
 
S

Skaumannen

Well-Known Member
On one cpu cooler you can use any led up to 100w. But it is not big enough to add anything else because the base is not big enough. If you are on a budget I would try to get hold of larger heatsinks. Old stereo amps is one way. And i would only use the 3 watt leds, say 10 per heatsink. That way you can tailor the spectrum to what you want. The other option is to use one 50 watt led per heatsink.
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Great replies. Still wondering if the selected parts would actually work though. I will look at upgrading to perhaps some COB units since that seems to be the way to go.
 
Rahz

Rahz

Well-Known Member
Looks like that 50w you selected is a cob. The ebay seller does provide a part # but I couldn't find a data sheet for it. You could always message the seller for dimensions. I would consider Bridgelux or Cree though, both of which have datasheets which will include unit dimensions.
 
S

Skaumannen

Well-Known Member
The 50 watt driver and led you linked is a COB. But it is not a very efficient one. The reason the cree cobs are popular is because they use more of the electricity for actual light. So a Chinese 50 watt might only give the same amount of light as a 2 5 watt cree. It is hard to say for certain without the data sheets.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Yeah..just keep it simple if your on a tight budget. CPU cooler and bridgelux or vero cob. Can always add to it later..

Point of DIY really is to use better leds than commercially available. The results from a cheaper led may not be as worth the time

If you really want to add other colors in than a bit larger heatsink may be better

Predrilled heatsinks from reefledlights.com can fit stars and the 3070 or 3590 with ideal cob holder...here's an example.

image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg

It will cost a little more than a CPU cooler build though..but makes color additions pretty easy


The different designs are growing...lots to choose from. Just make sure a bridgelux or cree cob is used along with a meanwell driver for really good results
 
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bicit

bicit

Well-Known Member
The CPU cooler you linked in the OP is a good one and a good value at $10 each with a fan. It's hard to compete with. I wouldn't recommend using anything else with a tight budget. Then a power supply for them, should be enough to power twenty or so.

http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Alpine-11-Plus-Cooler/dp/B00606OHQQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1411238141&sr=1-1&keywords=arctic+alpine+11
http://www.amazon.com/Intocircuit-Adapter-Charger-Benq-Monitors/dp/B0023Y9EQC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411238892&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+5amp

Next up is to choose what type of COB you want. The Cree CXA series is considered to be the benchmark for efficiency right now with the bridglux vero series coming in at a very close second. I prefer bridglux chips due to their availability, cost, feature set and simplistic binning system.

http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?pv1614=348&FV=ffecac1f,ffecac20,ffecac21,ffecac22,fff40008,fff80354,fffc03d0&mnonly=0&newproducts=0&ColumnSort=0&page=1&quantity=0&ptm=0&fid=0&pageSize=25

Now as far as driver selection goes, it's highly dependent on your setup. Some like to run 1 driver per COB, others like running multiple cobs off a single driver. Each has their pro's and cons. I prefer running a single, high voltage driver because it simplifies wiring and allows the driver to be mounted further away or in another room all together. Others like so called 'driver boards' for reliability or safety concerns.

Single PSU multi-cob: This will run 8-10 vero 18's at roughly 20w each.
http://www.jameco.com/1/1/52104-hlg-185h-c700b-200w-single-output-led-power-supply-constant-current-design.html

This will run one vero 18 at roughly 40w
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10004218/1320600-85-265v-50w-high-power-constant-current-led-driver

One vero 18 at roughly 20 watts.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10004218/1320605

That's all I got for now.
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
I like having some drivers for individual cobs, and some for multiple.

I have a 144V max at 1.4A suipply which I use to drive 4 vero 29 in series, but it runs at like 1.1A unfortunately. (144V not enough voltage to run all 4 at 1.4A) If only they would make that driver max out at 150V, it would be the perfect vero 29 driver.
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Ok so i've decided what to use for this first project. Im gonna stick with the Arctic Alpine 11 Plus heat sink. And i will use the COB and driver @FranJan suggested.
http://m.ebay.ca/itm/201040143969?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE
http://ca.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=CXM-18-30-80-36-AA00-F2-3virtualkey65110000virtualkey896-18308036AA00F23

That doesn't mean im not still open to suggestions since i wont be ordering the gear for another week. The price is right but my funds are not.

Also, will i need thermal paste to attach the COB? If so, which is the one to go with?
 
DonPetro

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Positivity said:
Yeah..just keep it simple if your on a tight budget. CPU cooler and bridgelux or vero cob. Can always add to it later..

Point of DIY really is to use better leds than commercially available. The results from a cheaper led may not be as worth the time

If you really want to add other colors in than a bit larger heatsink may be better

Predrilled heatsinks from reefledlights.com can fit stars and the 3070 or 3590 with ideal cob holder...here's an example.

View attachment 3258040 View attachment 3258042 View attachment 3258043

It will cost a little more than a CPU cooler build though..but makes color additions pretty easy


The different designs are growing...lots to choose from. Just make sure a bridgelux or cree cob is used along with a meanwell driver for really good results
Click to expand...
In that second pic, did you solder those connections onto the cob? It also looks like you have the cob mounted on some sort of base plate? Could you recommend a good thermal paste? I would prefer not use screws.
 
Positivity

Positivity

Well-Known Member
@DonPetro...no, the only thing soldered are the small 670nm stars. Those are ideal cob holders holding the cxas down in all the pictures. They screw down and use push in terminals. You can remove the wire by inserting a small guage wire in the adjacent hole and pulling the wire out.

http://www.idealindustries.com/products/oem/led_holders/chiplok.jsp

Best thermal paste I know of is prolimatech pk3. Quite a few here use it including me. It's not a thermal adhesive though. So some have used kapton tape along with it to secure the led. Basically relying mostly on the vacuum created by the paste. I've never done it that way so I can't speak for longetivity...probably be good with the kapton though I'd think.

Screws aren't as bad as they sound...lol. Few tools and it only takes a minute..
 
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