DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

DonPetro

Well-Known Member
Stupid question...on your basic power adapter...which one is the white dashed wire and which is the one with wording on it? Damn...sativa...
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Haha unfortunately I have seen both. Some adapters use the whites dashes to denote positive and some use it as negative.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I mean they switch the polarity from adapter to adapter. Some use the white line as negative and some use the white line as positive. So there is no standard to memorize unfortunately.
 

rosco79

Active Member
Firstly thanks for a great post.

I've been looking at jumping into the COB LED light market for some time now, but was not sure where to start, after seeing this post i'm swayed to making my own light but would like some advice before i go buying the wrong things, I have good electric skills so should not be a problem. The light will be for my flower room only which is a SOG room 2.5m x 2m of usable space, i've got a light mover in there at the moment so not sure if to use it or make an array of fixed COB LED's. I was thinking to keep it so the girls all grown evenly and mount 2 or 4 small lights off it.

I like to sound of the CXA3590's for their light penetration this is where I am looking for guidance in the driver and any additional LED colours that need to be added to enhance growth. I mean what is best to run a single driver for each LED are there efficient drivers for a singe 3590 or is it just as good to run them in series.

Also these Cree COB LED's are they safe enough to buy from Alibaba, am I right in saying its only Cree that makes them or are they under licence in china ??? I can see sellers offering them for about $35 a chip if you buy 10 so that was where i was thinking to aim, make 4 lights with 2 chips per light then i'd have 2 spare chips should one fail or I decide to upgrade / expand.

Right thats where i'm at anyones views / input would be very much appreciated.

Thanks
Rosco
 

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
The AC input is 90-305V on that driver so it will operate in any standard socket, the driver will run on 110V and converts the 110V AC to 107-215V DC @ 700mA. So you dont have to worry about your wall socket voltage, the driver when plugged in automatically operates according to your voltage at the wall and converts to DC for your LEDs.
 

Scornfulheal

Active Member
The AC input is 90-305V on that driver so it will operate in any standard socket, the driver will run on 110V and converts the 110V AC to 107-215V DC @ 700mA. So you dont have to worry about your wall socket voltage, the driver when plugged in automatically operates according to your voltage at the wall and converts to DC for your LEDs.
Thanks!
 

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
Anyone ever order drivers from Satisled? Or how about long wait times for shipping to the left coast from Fasttech? Only an $15 order or so, but going on 3.5 weeks of waiting now...kinda over it.....usually shipping from China is actually fairly quick too over here...:peace:

I cheaped out though and didn't get tracking [didn't notice it really...] but 3.5 weeks ago, I was sent a picture of the wrapped package and getting ready to be sent on its way, with a return to Switzerland tag on it?

[I know the minute I order new replacement drivers, the FT order will arrive :)]
 
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Abiqua

Well-Known Member
^ For a terrible comparison, totally different vendor I know......but my Cree 3070's from AliE arrived from Shenzhen in 6 days.....
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Nice lineup BT :) What is the plan? I am putting together an order for a few V10s to play with as well. I am going to try and fit those 4Ks in my headlights and I am thinking the 2700K 80cri and 2700K 90 cri would be great for indoor lighting in living room areas etc. Currently I am using Cree XTE 3200K because I had extras on hand, but warmer is cozier and less blue is supposed to make it easier to fall asleep.

Also grabbed a Luxeon ES amber/orange from Steves LEDS to test out. Ordered a batch of their royal blues to see if the output of the new top bin is actually higher than the previous top bin, plus they were on sale for $2 ea. (60% efficient, $2/PAR W) very cheap photons
 

Positivity

Well-Known Member
Nice lineup BT :) What is the plan? I am putting together an order for a few V10s to play with as well. I am going to try and fit those 4Ks in my headlights and I am thinking the 2700K 80cri and 2700K 90 cri would be great for indoor lighting in living room areas etc. Currently I am using Cree XTE 3200K because I had extras on hand, but warmer is cozier and less blue is supposed to make it easier to fall asleep.

Also grabbed a Luxeon ES amber/orange from Steves LEDS to test out. Ordered a batch of their royal blues to see if the output of the new top bin is actually higher than the previous top bin, plus they were on sale for $2 ea. (60% efficient, $2/PAR W) very cheap photons
I'm going to probably try the new lime led from Steve's led. The spectrum is really similar to the amber but the limes output is huge comparatively. Too bad it wasn't the other way around..

May have to toy around with monos for awhile longer. I swear I see a bit nicer growth hitting some of the areas one color misses. Current all white 3k grow is very nice though. But..if I've got the space and holes ready for mounting..why not..

Really interested in your impression on amber. That's one I've always wondered about
 

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
Nice lineup BT :) What is the plan?
The plan is just to check out the different spectrums and decide which one(s) to go with. Id like to keep it simple and all one color temp. Wasnt too sure on the 4000K for stand alone flowering (too white) so I ordered 2700K 3000K 3500K to try those and see how I like the spectrums and got a 5000K too for the hell of it (though if 4000K is too white 5000K is going to be worse, for flowering) but I wanted to check out the different spectrums.
 

Bueno Time

Well-Known Member
Did some testing of the Vero 10s, one of each 2700K 3000K 3500K 4000K 5000K, all 80CRI versions. (sorry if this is annoying, I keep being redundant in each post with the same stuff here but I wanted to make it easier to anyone just browsing to know whats going on in case this helps them pick a spectrum.)

The test rig.



3000K Vs 2700K





5000K Vs 2700K





3000K Vs 3500K







4000K Vs 3500K





Not the best comparison by any means but it is what it is. Gives you an idea of the differences. I think 3000K and maybe some 3500K will be my pick but a little more playing will be in order before I decide.
 
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