DiY LEDs - How to Power Them

Kempo

Active Member
Hello everyone, i want to drive 1 Vero 29 COB (BXRC-40G10K0-L-23) @1050ma to get ~40w but the only driver i found is HLG-40H series but efficiency sux, have you an idea ?
 

alesh

Well-Known Member
Hello everyone, i want to drive 1 Vero 29 COB (BXRC-40G10K0-L-23) @1050ma to get ~40w but the only driver i found is HLG-40H series but efficiency sux, have you an idea ?
From MW:
PCD-40-1050B
PLD-40-1050B
PLM-40-1050
NPF-40-42(D) (0.96A)
HLN-40H-42 (0.96A)
HLG-40H-42 (0.96A)
PLP-45-48 (0.95A)
LCM-40

NPF is the most efficient @90%.
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
I pulled the trigger on 4xCXB3070 and an hlg-185-1400b driver and I would like to know what is the best route for throwing a dimmer on, and is there a way I can just bypass and leave the dimming function open? I will eventually be using 3 of these drivers per fixture so if there's a way I can wire up one dimmer to control them per fixture that would be ideal. Wishing I hadn't gone with the b dimming option at this point.
If you leave the dimming wires open, the driver will operate at max current. If you add a 100K potentiometer you will get full dimming control. If you want to control 3 drivers with one knob you would need a 33K pot. Since there is no 33K pot you could use a 50K.

BUT if you tie three drivers dimming wires together with a single POT, the system requires that all 3 drivers are powered at all times or else it will go into limp mode if you switch one driver off. So if you expect to bump into that problem, a separate 100K pot for each driver may be the better option.
 

Actionbone

Well-Known Member
Hello guys

I want to power 4 alpine 11, And i have two diferents mobile chargers one is rated 5v 550mah And the other is 5v 890mah. Thx
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Each fan should draw about 50-60mA so you might draw 250mA total. So 550mA is plenty and will most likely be slightly more efficient than the 890mA adapter
 
Perhaps your friend's houe has nonstandardly wired outlets?
I went there with my toolkit after work. His only good plug is the only grounded receptacle. Every other one is not grounded. Do LED need to be grounded? All his other leds are working but the Cxa prototype I've built. he even has a 1k hps running why is my led not running? I'm going to try to solder it once more maybe I messed up
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
I went there with my toolkit after work. His only good plug is the only grounded receptacle. Every other one is not grounded. Do LED need to be grounded? All his other leds are working but the Cxa prototype I've built. he even has a 1k hps running why is my led not running? I'm going to try to solder it once more maybe I messed up
I have heard this a few times from people now. Check your ground and neutral AC wires and make sure they are not mixed.
The ground and neutral are the same thing basically in a 120v setup if all are being used(grounded outlets). So if they are indeed switched, but you aren't using all wires at the plug anymore(non grounded outlets)...you are actually missing the neutral, not the ground.
 
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I have heard this a few times from people now. Check your ground and neutral AC wires and make sure they are not mixed.
The ground and neutral are the same thing basically in a 120v setup if all are being used(grounded outlets). So if they are indeed switched, but you aren't using all wires at the plug anymore(non grounded outlets)...you are actually missing the neutral, not the ground.
My friend managed to check a receptacle and it's only running hot and neutral. I guess since It's an older home it's only running hot and neutral


On a side note I was thinking about building a vero29 powerd light since they are lower cri
Anyone know a good driver to drive them efficiently? I was thinking Vero29 or cxa3590 to build a hps replacement.

It seems people are getting around the 1gpw with crees but there aren't enough journals that I've seen to provide me a good idea of what to expect with Vero 29
 
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Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
My friend managed to check a receptacle and it's only running hot and neutral. I guess since It's an older home it's only running hot and neutral


On a side note I was thinking about building a vero29 powerd light since they are lower cri
Anyone know a good driver to drive them efficiently? I was thinking Vero29 or cxa3590 to build a hps replacement.

It seems people are getting around the 1gpw with crees but there aren't enough journals that I've seen to provide me a good idea of what to expect with Vero 29
Not check the house...I meant check how your drivers are wired on their AC side.

Exactly...the house is only hot and neutral. So if your wiring is messed up you have no neutral connection going on. But in a grounded outlet you get away with it.
 
I got a China driver so I'm blaming it on it but it's wiring as the following

Blue to neutral (white)
brown to hot (black)
green/yellow to ground (green)
 

Greengenes707

Well-Known Member
I got a China driver so I'm blaming it on it but it's wiring as the following

Blue to neutral (white)
brown to hot (black)
green/yellow to ground (green)
Interesting. Now sounds like the driver itself is wired/color wrong maybe. I am 99% that somewhere/how the ground and neutral are mixed. It is the only explanation for the behavior I can really come up with. Possibly your hot and neutral are mixed...but that actually doesn't make a difference.
My suggestion is to rewire the neutral and ground and test it. It won't damage anything if I am wrong.

How did you plug your driver into ungrounded outlets...adapter?
 
Interesting. Now sounds like the driver itself is wired/color wrong maybe. I am 99% that somewhere/how the ground and neutral are mixed. It is the only explanation for the behavior I can really come up with. Possibly your hot and neutral are mixed...but that actually doesn't make a difference.
My suggestion is to rewire the neutral and ground and test it. It won't damage anything if I am wrong.

How did you plug your driver into ungrounded outlets...adapter?
Yeah adaptors. He has a MARS, CLW, and Lumigrow led running on an adapters as well. Yet mine is not doing so well. I think you may be right on the money but I thought it was too simple of a fix.

I'm going to try that and see if it works. if it does I need to buy you a beer
 

ActionHanks

Well-Known Member
Evening gentlemen,

Ive had a cheap china led for a few years finally give out on me. I decided to see if I could scrap any of the pieces and make a quick fix DiY.

I opened up the panel and found 2 drivers, checked them with my multimeter, and each runs 68V, at .51 amps. There were also 2 stickers on the drivers, and some writing that says the output should be 56v-90v, amps is 500mA to 525mA.

Can i drive 2 cxb3590s with these drivers (one driver per light)? Is it ok to run these cree devices at lower voltages as long as the amperage remains constant? Can I even run .5amps on a cxb3590?
 

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
You mean they measure 68V .51A with the generic LEDs as the load? If the sticker is correct and they can go up to 90V then they are a good match for CXB3590.
 

Blakhash

Well-Known Member
is the cen-100-36 Mean well power supply dimmable, the spreadsheet says no on every site i read, but what int he heck are the two dials for on the driver itself??
 

CellarDweller

Well-Known Member
Each fan should draw about 50-60mA so you might draw 250mA total. So 550mA is plenty and will most likely be slightly more efficient than the 890mA adapter
@SupraSPL - sorry but I didn't see how you managed to get the 60mA draw on an Alpine11 fan as the website says 160mA (http://www.arctic.ac/de_en/alpine-11-plus.html) @ 12V......oh......you're driving at 5V aren't you?...........I remember now your tests on efficiency and Tj values etc.

Am I correct?
 
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