DiY LEDs - How to Power Them
- Thread starter SupraSPL
- Start date
Mathias83
Member
Hey again ,a watercooled one seems to be champion in energy efficiency and lowest junction temp.
which brand do you suggest ?
what is the most common passive heat sink used these days ?
cheers
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
I like these cobs since years, even if luminous efficiency is low(70-85lm / w).I growed several times with this spectrum, and had no problems to
veg. "and" flower with the same chip.In the picture above I try to close the spectral gaps,
wich always exist in the spectrum of white phosphor chips and I don`t care so much about luminous efficiency, because I harvest the heat of my lamp by watercooling + heatexchanger, and energy efficiency is 3 times as high as aircooled led light.
I think the wireless soldering of the chip in series - is also some kind of new tech in the DIY section.
So I mix: 3 x 50W full spec. 380-780nm (~1800K)
2 x CLU048 (3500K)
1 x 10W (2000K)
1 x 10W UVA 400nm
4 x 3W cyan 490nm
2 x 3W blue 470nm
2 x 3W blue 445nm
together in one cluster, wich I can drive between 50-135W.
I will use 2 x Mean Well ELG 240 C1400A to cover a space of 3 x 4,5 x 5ft high
with 4 clusters (200-540W)
During the next winter I will test this spectral distribution(wich is more even and much closer to daylight distribution) to see if additional support for carotinoides chloroplasts (470-500nm) will show any effects or results. ---> see link below.
@Mathias83 - this is not a branded heatsink - it`s just a rectangular aluminium tube (60x30x2mm) from a metall-shop and you have to DIY, to use it in a very efficient,simple
and cheap way. (this is not very common and not a passive heatsink
- as you need a water pump)
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
Yes huuh - hard to understand, so I`m not shure if that answered what you expected.What is your mothers`language ??? Did you tried "google translate" ?
Chech
Member
I got a grow journal under indoor led growing in the stealth cabinet section.
It consists of 4xcxb2530s and a meanwell hlg-120-c700 B version with a 100k pot.
Im looking to wire in a digital readout(im not even sure what i need) of what watts and/or what amps my lights are running at when i decrease and increase the potentiometer?
Could someone point me in the direction of a thread for this or answer me with a simple solution on what to purchase.
Thanks in advance
It consists of 4xcxb2530s and a meanwell hlg-120-c700 B version with a 100k pot.
Im looking to wire in a digital readout(im not even sure what i need) of what watts and/or what amps my lights are running at when i decrease and increase the potentiometer?
Could someone point me in the direction of a thread for this or answer me with a simple solution on what to purchase.
Thanks in advance
T-Time
Well-Known Member
You'll need this https://www.ebay.com/itm/172623759851?redirect=mobile
T-Time
Well-Known Member
My lights are water cooled.
I have ran them passive cooled up to 600W with the pump switched off but I woldn't recommend it for efficiency sake and the reliability.
Chech
Member
I dont know how to rep you but i liked it, cheers my bruh
KonopCh
Well-Known Member
For that money I can buy Meanwell driver. Thanks, but I have in mind something Chinese for 10-15 bucks.
I'm trying to lower wattage in my flower room, i have 3 1hlg-185h-1400, each running a rail of 4 cxb3590; if dimming 2 of those drivers to 50%, will it make of big difference with replacing those 2 drivers with a single hlg-185h-700?
I guess that when dimmed to 50% the driver will then use 100 watts instead of 200ish watts, right?
I guess that when dimmed to 50% the driver will then use 100 watts instead of 200ish watts, right?
mahiluana
Well-Known Member
makes sense - because dimming always decrease efficiency of your driver (~1%).
with hlg-185h-700 you can wire 2 rails together (8 x cxb3590) @ 700ma and full load -
or even go down to 350ma and maybe break the wall of 200lm/w @ 10% load.
i guess even bit lower ~ 80-90w
a cheaper solution - before you buy a new driver is:
take one driver out and run 2 rails in paralell - with the same effect.
...so you can send me one driver for X-mas gift
to my destination
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Little help needed....
Got a Mean Well 320H-36b driver. currently NO potentiometer hooked up to it.
Have 2 cobs, Citizen CLU048-1212 properly hooked up to their heatsink.
When wiring just one cob from the driver, brown driver lead to positive, negative to blue driver lead, the cob powers up brightly.
When wiring BOTH cobs in parallel, both cobs power up.
When trying to wire both cobs up in series, ie. Brown driver lead to positive cob 1, negative cob 1 to positive cob 2, negative cob 2 to blue lead on driver, neither powers up.
Any ideas?
Thank you in advance,
*.*.* Cedru *.*.*
Got a Mean Well 320H-36b driver. currently NO potentiometer hooked up to it.
Have 2 cobs, Citizen CLU048-1212 properly hooked up to their heatsink.
When wiring just one cob from the driver, brown driver lead to positive, negative to blue driver lead, the cob powers up brightly.
When wiring BOTH cobs in parallel, both cobs power up.
When trying to wire both cobs up in series, ie. Brown driver lead to positive cob 1, negative cob 1 to positive cob 2, negative cob 2 to blue lead on driver, neither powers up.
Any ideas?
Thank you in advance,
*.*.* Cedru *.*.*
Last edited:
GBAUTO
Well-Known Member
That driver is a constant voltage that outputs ~36Vdc and ~8.9 Amps. I bet that single cob DID get bright.....
Ooh yeah, very! Of course I only let it inn for a few seconds each time, but yeah, vey bright.
MarWan
Well-Known Member
be careful you might damage your eyes, I almost did with 4 cobs @ 50w each.