Do bloom boosters make your bud taste like shit?
- Thread starter jonnynobody
- Start date
Every farmer here waits to pull the beans, wheat, soy , all of it is toasty brown before harvest, everyone of them , maybe you grow lettuce ? Every plant in nature fades , the leafs fall to the gorwn , the rain and snow adds nitrogen back to the ground along with the compost of the leafs that fall of the plant to the ground refertalize the soil then the process repeats , I would love to have time to give you a class on it but I dont have time and you dont have a clue what you are talking about , not one clue.how many farmers do you know that wait for the "fade" ?
keep um green
i aint NEVER seen a plant start to cannibalize in nature....not gonna happen. unless your growing in dead dry fill dirt.
If you think its better running water through it then do it but thats not how soil works in nature.
Lucky Luke
Well-Known Member
Thanks anyway, heaps of wallaby, bandicoot, native hen and possum shit on my lawn I could try if I wanted- not to keen.
Renfro
Well-Known Member
Ahh but if a primo plant burns in the forest and nobody is there to smell it...
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
It seems there may be some confusion, so let me clarify some information that perhaps I didn't clearly state. I am currently growing in coco / perlite hempy buckets using JR Peter's Jack's 5-12-26, 15-0-0 calcium nitrate, and Epsom salts. This is also known as Jack's 3-2-1. This is not an organic grow nor is this a soil grow. If you do not grow hydroponically or have no experience growing hydroponically please feel free to find the soil / organic section of RIU and assist growers who are seeking your advice. If you do not understand the difference between using fully chelated synthetic fertilizers in an inert medium versus growing organically in living soil then you are of no assistance to this thread.
I am not using bottled nutrients. I am using dry salts that I buy in bulk for a very reasonable price and have delivered to my front door.
I pay $73 for 25# of Jack's 5-12-26 which will last me at least 5 years. My 5 # bag of calcium nitrate was $12 and my 6 # bag of epsom was under $5. If you're growing synthetically I highly recommend you checkout Jack's 3-2-1. The value cannot be beat.
Greengenes707 has done some truly amazing work with the Jack's 3-2-1 system and he has numerous youtube videos that you're welcome to checkout. The man knows what he's doing and I highly respect his work. Greengenes707 makes it very clear that boosting is not necessary. You can run the 3-2-1 system from veg to harvest without issue. He has experimented with reducing calcium nitrate and adding mono-potassium phosphate and mono-ammonium phosphate to provide additional P & K for the bulking phase of flowering. Greengenes707 discontinues nutrients 10 days prior to harvest. He provides water only for the last 10 days. I highly recommend you checkout his garden. The guy is very knowledgeable and doesn't do this for ego or rep. He does it because he loves growing great weed.
I personally think Koolbloom contains an unlisted PGR and would not recommend anyone use it. I did not over fertilize throughout the grow as many people who have responded suggested. I feel that the koolbloom contributed significantly to poor taste and burn quality of the bud in addition to my poorly executed drying process. I feel that the rapid dry time ruined any chance of a real cure and the koolbloom added unnecessary levels of P & K to my plant.
Growing in soil is a completely different ball of wax from growing in an inert medium. Both methods are capable of producing an amazing product. The quality of the end result in either method is a matter of experience on the part of the grower, not whether or not the plant was grown in soil organically or hydroponically with synthetic fertilizer. We've all smoked great hydro and we've all smoked great organic. Neither way is the "right way." Instead of arguing with one another I would suggest you put your energies into perfecting your method of growing instead of trashing other people that utilize a different method.
Now if we're talking "over" or "under" with the toilet paper roll - there is absolutely no room for negotiation or interpretation. The right way is "over" for fucks sake. For any of you sick bastards that put the roll of toilet paper on the wrong way, there's a special place in hell for you
How dare anybody make me reach further for my toilet paper in my time of need.
I am not using bottled nutrients. I am using dry salts that I buy in bulk for a very reasonable price and have delivered to my front door.
I pay $73 for 25# of Jack's 5-12-26 which will last me at least 5 years. My 5 # bag of calcium nitrate was $12 and my 6 # bag of epsom was under $5. If you're growing synthetically I highly recommend you checkout Jack's 3-2-1. The value cannot be beat.
Greengenes707 has done some truly amazing work with the Jack's 3-2-1 system and he has numerous youtube videos that you're welcome to checkout. The man knows what he's doing and I highly respect his work. Greengenes707 makes it very clear that boosting is not necessary. You can run the 3-2-1 system from veg to harvest without issue. He has experimented with reducing calcium nitrate and adding mono-potassium phosphate and mono-ammonium phosphate to provide additional P & K for the bulking phase of flowering. Greengenes707 discontinues nutrients 10 days prior to harvest. He provides water only for the last 10 days. I highly recommend you checkout his garden. The guy is very knowledgeable and doesn't do this for ego or rep. He does it because he loves growing great weed.
I personally think Koolbloom contains an unlisted PGR and would not recommend anyone use it. I did not over fertilize throughout the grow as many people who have responded suggested. I feel that the koolbloom contributed significantly to poor taste and burn quality of the bud in addition to my poorly executed drying process. I feel that the rapid dry time ruined any chance of a real cure and the koolbloom added unnecessary levels of P & K to my plant.
Growing in soil is a completely different ball of wax from growing in an inert medium. Both methods are capable of producing an amazing product. The quality of the end result in either method is a matter of experience on the part of the grower, not whether or not the plant was grown in soil organically or hydroponically with synthetic fertilizer. We've all smoked great hydro and we've all smoked great organic. Neither way is the "right way." Instead of arguing with one another I would suggest you put your energies into perfecting your method of growing instead of trashing other people that utilize a different method.
Now if we're talking "over" or "under" with the toilet paper roll - there is absolutely no room for negotiation or interpretation. The right way is "over" for fucks sake. For any of you sick bastards that put the roll of toilet paper on the wrong way, there's a special place in hell for you
How dare anybody make me reach further for my toilet paper in my time of need.
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OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
I found this on my computer yesterday while looking for something else and it's worth a look I think. Going to give it a try for sure next time I flower some out. Have no idea who the author is.
"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.
By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.
By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.
A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.
By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.
When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.
Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."
"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.
By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.
By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.
A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.
By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.
When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.
Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."
HaremMaster
Member
SPOT ON!!
HaremMaster
Member
Nicely done! Thanks for the slow-dry tips.. will follow them on upcoming Blueberry harvest.There's your problem right there. For an 8-9 week plant the last of any boosters and most of the nutes should stop no later than the end of week 5 flowering counted from the flip. Epsom salts with it's Mg and S will work just as good or better than any finishing product in a bottle.
I grow in soilless or hydro so I feed some extra bloom nutes and a half dose of Big Bud a week before flipping so have lots of buds going big by the end of the stretch. In a good soil grow almost everything the plant needs is in there all along so some teas with P and K in them is often enough.
Try it on one plant and do the rest the way you have and see if it doesn't make a noticeable difference. I did and I'll keep doing it.
Flushing will not remove anything from the plants so if you've overfed to the point of toxic salts buildup by cropping time you will be smoking extra salts. Probably have burnt, crispy leaves happening by the end of week five if overfed all the time. Minerals in tap water make it worse.
A long slow dry time and equally long cure time, about 2 months total, will make any pot taste and burn better. Hanging to dry fast leaves a harsh smoking product green with chlorophyll and nasty with unconverted starches. I take from 3 to 5 weeks to get my fully trimmed buds to dry enough to put into jars and carefully burp for another few weeks before almost dry enough to smoke. The pot does most of it's curing in the initial drying and must be kept evenly moist as any that goes bone dry just isn't breaking down the chlorophyll and starches any more even if rehydrated. My buds go into doubled or tripled paper bags and stay in my cool, 50F, basement while they dry.
Freshly trimmed off the plant.
View attachment 4330668
Still a couple weeks to go in a jar/can. I use those empty tobacco cans instead of jars as they have smooth sides so when the buds form a big clump early on it slides right out onto a tray to be carefully broken apart and allowed to breathe a bit before going back in.
View attachment 4330669
OldMedUser
Well-Known Member
Should have a look at this too. I've never tried it but damn well plan to. Forget where I found it but seems to make sense.
A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.
By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.
By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.
A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.
By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.
When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.
Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds.
jonnynobody
Well-Known Member
Very interesting post. It's lost on me how some people have such a difficult time grasping the concept of cessation of fertilizer at a designated point in time prior to harvest in container gardening whether it's organically grown or hydroponically grown. When I grew in dirt I used synthetic fertilizer, but at a far different rate than a grower would use in a hydroponic application. For instance, I only had to feed with synthetic fertilizer once every 3 watering cycles. Feed, water, water, feed. And when I did fertilizer it was only at 50% strength of the manufacturer's recommendation. The plants were in Fox Farm Ocean Forest which is a very rich mix. I did not add any other amendments. 10 days prior to harvest I stopped giving fertilizer and provided water only when needed. The bud was potent, smooth, and sorely missed when I smoked it all. I repeated this grow process 5 more times for a total of 6 grows. I can't imagine adding fertilizer all the way up to the last water cycle would have benefited me or my plants in any fashion.I found this on my computer yesterday while looking for something else and it's worth a look I think. Going to give it a try for sure next time I flower some out. Have no idea who the author is.
"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.
By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.
By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.
A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.
By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.
When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.
Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."
I imagine the same effect would happen in a hydroponic application. I have only grown hydroponically once before, so I am not experienced in this method of growing and have not refined the process. My hope is that by not using any P K boosters (mono-potassium phosphate / mono ammonium phosphate), sticking to a more balanced NPK ratio, and ending fertilizer 10 days prior to harvest will produce the same great buds that I have been accustomed to in my soil grows using synthetic fertilizer.
HaremMaster
Member
Back to earth.. yessssss, what a relief!It seems there may be some confusion, so let me clarify some information that perhaps I didn't clearly state. I am currently growing in coco / perlite hempy buckets using JR Peter's Jack's 5-12-26, 15-0-0 calcium nitrate, and Epsom salts. This is also known as Jack's 3-2-1. This is not an organic grow nor is this a soil grow. If you do not grow hydroponically or have no experience growing hydroponically please feel free to find the soil / organic section of RIU and assist growers who are seeking your advice. If you do not understand the difference between using fully chelated synthetic fertilizers in an inert medium versus growing organically in living soil then you are of no assistance to this thread.
I am not using bottled nutrients. I am using dry salts that I buy in bulk for a very reasonable price and have delivered to my front door.
I pay $73 for 25# of Jack's 5-12-26 which will last me at least 5 years. My 5 # bag of calcium nitrate was $12 and my 6 # bag of epsom was under $5. If you're growing synthetically I highly recommend you checkout Jack's 3-2-1. The value cannot be beat.
Greengenes707 has done some truly amazing work with the Jack's 3-2-1 system and he has numerous youtube videos that you're welcome to checkout. The man knows what he's doing and I highly respect his work. Greengenes707 makes it very clear that boosting is not necessary. You can run the 3-2-1 system from veg to harvest without issue. He has experimented with reducing calcium nitrate and adding mono-potassium phosphate and mono-ammonium phosphate to provide additional P & K for the bulking phase of flowering. Greengenes707 discontinues nutrients 10 days prior to harvest. He provides water only for the last 10 days. I highly recommend you checkout his garden. The guy is very knowledgeable and doesn't do this for ego or rep. He does it because he loves growing great weed.
I personally think Koolbloom contains an unlisted PGR and would not recommend anyone use it. I did not over fertilize throughout the grow as many people who have responded suggested. I feel that the koolbloom contributed significantly to poor taste and burn quality of the bud in addition to my poorly executed drying process. I feel that the rapid dry time ruined any chance of a real cure and the koolbloom added unnecessary levels of P & K to my plant.
Growing in soil is a completely different ball of wax from growing in an inert medium. Both methods are capable of producing an amazing product. The quality of the end result in either method is a matter of experience on the part of the grower, not whether or not the plant was grown in soil organically or hydroponically with synthetic fertilizer. We've all smoked great hydro and we've all smoked great organic. Neither way is the "right way." Instead of arguing with one another I would suggest you put your energies into perfecting your method of growing instead of trashing other people that utilize a different method.
Now if we're talking "over" or "under" with the toilet paper roll - there is absolutely no room for negotiation or interpretation. The right way is "over" for fucks sake. For any of you sick bastards that put the roll of toilet paper on the wrong way, there's a special place in hell for you
HaremMaster
Member
Ya, that 'cut flowers' m.o. caught my attention, too.. always a dilemma deciding to try that 'new' experiment when you are limited to max. 4 plants per grow, in which you currently have 65 days veg / 15 days flwr invested.. and, besides, all my previous grows have dried, cured up, and tasted the equal of, or better than, the best bud I ever bought or was given before I started growing. For me, at the very least, it's a great hobby.. especially sorting through all the 'opinions' to get to the few techniques that might actually make a discernible difference in quality, either subjectively, or objectively, with confirmation bias, or without, LOL
HaremMaster
Member
BTW, my avatar pic is my latest Trainwreck flower, just harvested and hanging in my drying closet now.
getogrow
Well-Known Member
Of course they do , when its past time to harvest. ever seen any veggie farmers do this ? yea me either. the simple question is will the fruit taste like better when the plant has started to die/fade ? im not going to say its 100% wrong but its only the norm in the pot world. I have done everything you can do wrong in a growroom to learn from and like most advanced growers, i decided its best to keep them green.
all of us advanced gwowers know how to do it, we beez good gwowers, cause we don’t fwush and pump owr pwants fool of nitrowgen, and you don’t know how to gwow cause , and you small peanut whittle man ,Get out of here with your b.s. , mother nature's flushes her own soul's he called rain , mother nature also does not use salt to grow in like you do , peanut farmers on roll it up have no clue' oh all have probably never seen a cow or could pluck your own chicken , what a joke '
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How dare you confuse the name calling and the issue with the factsI found this on my computer yesterday while looking for something else and it's worth a look I think. Going to give it a try for sure next time I flower some out. Have no idea who the author is.
"A concern for all cannabis growers is to prevent mineral and fertilizer build-up in ripened buds. We often speak of “rinsing” the plants of their accumulated nutrient salts before harvesting. This process is not actually able to pull mineral nutrients out of the plant, but instead we aim to starve the plants during the last few weeks of blooming.
By withdrawing all mineral fertilizer from the root zone, either by leaching the soil with water or by chemically locking some nutrients out of solution with Epson salts (“Rinsing” chemicals), we want the final 2 weeks of growth to rely on the plant’s own internal reserves.
By growing without mineral salts, the final buds will have reduced amounts of nitrogen and phosphorus, two macronutrients known to accumulate at the growing ends of shoots. Buds with higher levels of these mineral nutrients are less aromatically flavoured, they dry “greener” and sometimes will not vaporize as well at lower temperatures. We want to dilute the mineral tissue content by growing with just water.
A way to super-charge the rinsing stage is to enhance the uptake of water by cutting ripe plants 7-10 days before harvest and then placing them in pure water. These rootless plants are treated like cut flowers from the florist that live in a vase, and they will be able to uptake much more water than when attached to their root systems. This happens since water will move up the stem by “capillary action”, which is faster than when the plant is attached to roots. In this case however, the “vase” should be a large bucket of water that is replaced everyday.
By continuing to grow the cut-stem-plants under full light and CO2 in dry air for 7-10 days, they will “drink” much more water. All the grower needs to do is replace and replenish the water everyday; they will transpire amazing amounts of water and the growth of the ripening phase will more rapidly dilute all minerals in the shoots, much more than when plants are left to ripen on their root systems.
When ripening cannabis plants this way, the green pigments suddenly fade while yellow, orange and purple pigments become prominent. Cut-stem cannabis plants placed in fresh water transpire and grow for up to 2 weeks if provided with a good growing environment, they have large internal reserves to use up for growth and are programmed to finish the ripening process with a last surge of cellular expansion.
Trichomes are the last cells to grow and mature on cannabis plants, but all living cells will use the increased flow of fresh water up the cut plant stem. Growers could also add a water soluble fragrance or essence such as vanilla extract to the water and discover how to enhance the bouquet and flavour of the dried buds."
I dont have a issue with sa2ly based nutes , I do have a issue with the ratios you mentioned , the target area for feeding for me is 2-5-5 or a mix that will cut down to that , bud boosters do more harm then good, everytime you over feed the plant it shocks the plant and slows growth , the plant will also store and accumulate the nutrients in its cell structure for your latter smoking pleasure , after all who does not like buds that snap crackle and pop and also burn like tar and taste like shit, they actually cost hou production in the end , because growers keep shocking their plants doing stupid crap like force feeding them nitrogen all the way to the end of the grow.It seems there may be some confusion, so let me clarify some information that perhaps I didn't clearly state. I am currently growing in coco / perlite hempy buckets using JR Peter's Jack's 5-12-26, 15-0-0 calcium nitrate, and Epsom salts. This is also known as Jack's 3-2-1. This is not an organic grow nor is this a soil grow. If you do not grow hydroponically or have no experience growing hydroponically please feel free to find the soil / organic section of RIU and assist growers who are seeking your advice. If you do not understand the difference between using fully chelated synthetic fertilizers in an inert medium versus growing organically in living soil then you are of no assistance to this thread.
I am not using bottled nutrients. I am using dry salts that I buy in bulk for a very reasonable price and have delivered to my front door.
I pay $73 for 25# of Jack's 5-12-26 which will last me at least 5 years. My 5 # bag of calcium nitrate was $12 and my 6 # bag of epsom was under $5. If you're growing synthetically I highly recommend you checkout Jack's 3-2-1. The value cannot be beat.
Greengenes707 has done some truly amazing work with the Jack's 3-2-1 system and he has numerous youtube videos that you're welcome to checkout. The man knows what he's doing and I highly respect his work. Greengenes707 makes it very clear that boosting is not necessary. You can run the 3-2-1 system from veg to harvest without issue. He has experimented with reducing calcium nitrate and adding mono-potassium phosphate and mono-ammonium phosphate to provide additional P & K for the bulking phase of flowering. Greengenes707 discontinues nutrients 10 days prior to harvest. He provides water only for the last 10 days. I highly recommend you checkout his garden. The guy is very knowledgeable and doesn't do this for ego or rep. He does it because he loves growing great weed.
I personally think Koolbloom contains an unlisted PGR and would not recommend anyone use it. I did not over fertilize throughout the grow as many people who have responded suggested. I feel that the koolbloom contributed significantly to poor taste and burn quality of the bud in addition to my poorly executed drying process. I feel that the rapid dry time ruined any chance of a real cure and the koolbloom added unnecessary levels of P & K to my plant.
Growing in soil is a completely different ball of wax from growing in an inert medium. Both methods are capable of producing an amazing product. The quality of the end result in either method is a matter of experience on the part of the grower, not whether or not the plant was grown in soil organically or hydroponically with synthetic fertilizer. We've all smoked great hydro and we've all smoked great organic. Neither way is the "right way." Instead of arguing with one another I would suggest you put your energies into perfecting your method of growing instead of trashing other people that utilize a different method.
Now if we're talking "over" or "under" with the toilet paper roll - there is absolutely no room for negotiation or interpretation. The right way is "over" for fucks sake. For any of you sick bastards that put the roll of toilet paper on the wrong way, there's a special place in hell for you
getogrow
Well-Known Member
you cannot "force feed " a plant. 
thats also impossible. It dont take a lot of nitrogen to keep um green sir....
i shocked plenty of plants in my time... of course thats not what you want ever. they need all the food they will eat an nothing more. that can take more then a year to dial in a certain pheno.
Specially when your running organics.
You can run a million 1000gal pots and that tells me NOTHING about your skills... you for sure got a big head though.
thats also impossible. It dont take a lot of nitrogen to keep um green sir.... i shocked plenty of plants in my time... of course thats not what you want ever. they need all the food they will eat an nothing more. that can take more then a year to dial in a certain pheno.
Specially when your running organics.
You can run a million 1000gal pots and that tells me NOTHING about your skills... you for sure got a big head though.
shorelineOG
Well-Known Member
In hydro I flush with plain water the last 10 days. It won't show any deficiency for a week, because the plant has nutrients/minerals stored in the plant. I don't want to smoke fertilizer, those heavy metals can be found in Unflushed bud. I think it's less noticeable in soil because soil has nutrients.