do you mix Cal-Mag into water before or after micro/grow/bloom?

Dirk8==D~Diggler

Dirk8==D~Diggler

Well-Known Member
Title basically says it all, I have been mixing cal-mag after micro/grow/bloom and I’m still seeing my leaves turn brown with rust spots. @Renfro advised me that my root zone pH was off, so I have been lowering the pH of my input to ~5.3 which has resulted in lowering my runoff to a pretty consistent 6.45. I would still like to get that lower but I’m starting to get concerned that the input will be so low that it hurts the plants. Is that a possibility or should I go down to an input of ~5.0?
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Medium: 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal. fabric pots

Nutes: emerald harvest 3 part series with 4mL/gal cal-mag.

Strain: white widow auto by MSNL

Water: ~5.3 or 5.4 pH

Light: HLG 135 QB V2 r-spec running at ~90% 24/0
 
Cal mag goes in first.

Do you know the pH of your root zone. For example if input is at 5.0 and the run off is at 6.5 then the root zone is likely closer to 7.0.
 
Renfro said:
Cal mag goes in first.

Do you know the pH of your root zone. For example if input is at 5.0 and the run off is at 6.5 then the root zone is likely closer to 7.0.
Click to expand...
Oh wow, I just assumed the pH of the root zone was the pH of the runoff. I assume there is a meter I can order that I stick into my medium to measure pH of root zone?
 
If you KNOW the rootzone pH then hitting them with a wild corrective feed works because it is instaltly buffered by the pH of the medium and the results are closer to where you wanna be.

So, lets assume you want 6.5 and your digital soil pH meter reads 8.5 (+2). You need to feed at 4.5 (-2). The pH meter should now show that you are a little low at the rootzone, say 6.0 but it drifts back up between feeds, so watch it go right past 6.5 and end up around say 7.0 when it's time to water again. The next corrective feed would be at 6.0.

Without an accurate soil pH meter you are just guessing as runoff isn't accurate.
 

Bluelab Soil PH Pen

<p>A handy solution made easy!</p> <p>The Bluelab Soil pH Pen provides a pH and temperature reading of soils and media, so you know that the right nutrients will be made available to your plants.</p> <p>In soils or growing media, pH strongly influences
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Dirk8==D~Diggler said:
Medium: 70/30 coco/perlite, 3 gal. fabric pots

Nutes: emerald harvest 3 part series with 4mL/gal cal-mag.

Strain: white widow auto by MSNL

Water: ~5.3 or 5.4 pH

Light: HLG 135 QB V2 r-spec running at ~90% 24/0
Click to expand...


what is your room temperature ? with that light you need to have enough heat if not you will get crazy deficiencies... the heat is needed for the processing in the leaves ...LED's kicked my ass the same way till I got that figured out
 
Renfro said:
If you KNOW the rootzone pH then hitting them with a wild corrective feed works because it is instaltly buffered by the pH of the medium and the results are closer to where you wanna be.

So, lets assume you want 6.5 and your digital soil pH meter reads 8.5 (+2). You need to feed at 4.5 (-2). The pH meter should now show that you are a little low at the rootzone, say 6.0 but it drifts back up between feeds, so watch it go right past 6.5 and end up around say 7.0 when it's time to water again. The next corrective feed would be at 6.0.

Without an accurate soil pH meter you are just guessing as runoff isn't accurate.
Click to expand...
Awesome, thanks for the help as always dude! You’re the most knowledgeable guy I’ve seen on this forum. I’ll be heeding your advice and purchasing the blue lab pen today!
 
24/0 is not the best idea..better to do 18/6... plus when your plant is hurting like that raise your lights or turn them down... you need to have the plant come back to proper vigor before you hit them with full light again... my guess tho is your room is too cold for those lights
 
oldschoolnitro said:
what is your room temperature ? with that light you need to have enough heat if not you will get crazy deficiencies... the heat is needed for the processing in the leaves ...LED's kicked my ass the same way till I got that figured out
Click to expand...
Usually high 70’s maxing out at about 80. Hot enough that my AC doesn’t really help with the heat it vents out like 10 feet away from my bed lol. I have read you need canopy temps. In the low 80’s with LED but I just never really knew why...
 
Also what goes into the plant in terms of
Dirk8==D~Diggler said:
Usually high 70’s maxing out at about 80. Hot enough that my AC doesn’t really help with the heat it vents out like 10 feet away from my bed lol. I have read you need canopy temps. In the low 80’s with LED but I just never really knew why...
Click to expand...


LED like that needs 84 degrees... under 80 proper photosynthesis won't happen
 
I highly recommend against using your nutrients PH to correct a perceived PH problem ...just give the plant the PH you intend it to drink and leave it at that... I PH usually in the 5.5-5.9 range... just keep the plant fed and the good food will flush out the bad and keep your PH where it needs to be
 
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