Do you use dyna gro? Need some advice..

Hey so I've got a bunch of dyna gro nutes and I downloaded the feeding schedule they have on their website and I'm having issues with some of it.

The bloom schedule they have is fine for me. The ladies love it. But the schedule for veg is not working for me. I'm using foliage pro instead of grow and it says for week 1 to use 5ml of foliage pro along with 5ml pro tekt and 10ml kln.

So when I add 5ml of foliage pro to 1 gallon of RO water, my ppm is reading over 650... When I mix that whole recipe up I'm over 800 ppms and this schedule says I should be at 425... Why is this?

I use blue lab instruments for pH and ppm, and I'm having 0 issues with the bloom schedule, after mixing it up I'm getting the correct ppm reading with bloom. I use the ppm 500 scale as recommended and It's only happening with foliage pro so is there something wrong with this bottle of foliage pro or do you guys read 600+ ppms from 5ml of foliage pro as well?

ganjafather27 said:

Hey so I've got a bunch of dyna gro nutes and I downloaded the feeding schedule they have on their website and I'm having issues with some of it.

The bloom schedule they have is fine for me. The ladies love it. But the schedule for veg is not working for me. I'm using foliage pro instead of grow and it says for week 1 to use 5ml of foliage pro along with 5ml pro tekt and 10ml kln.

So when I add 5ml of foliage pro to 1 gallon of RO water, my ppm is reading over 650... When I mix that whole recipe up I'm over 800 ppms and this schedule says I should be at 425... Why is this?

I use blue lab instruments for pH and ppm, and I'm having 0 issues with the bloom schedule, after mixing it up I'm getting the correct ppm reading with bloom. I use the ppm 500 scale as recommended and It's only happening with foliage pro so is there something wrong with this bottle of foliage pro or do you guys read 600+ ppms from 5ml of foliage pro as well?

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I've have been using DG for years. Don't use their feed schedule. I like grow and foliage pro as well as protekt. Ive stopped using mag pro and as time has gone on I've used less and less bloom. Use what your plants need not what a feed schedule tells you. I found that you need to use grow or foliage pro through the stretch. I wouldn't touch bloom until completion of the 3rd week of flower. At this point I'd still be mixing my nutes the same way I always have with grow or foliage pro (300ppm). Then each week I'd slowly raise that PPM with bloom. I'd never exceed 500 ppm. I'd reach 500 ppm during the 5th week and I'd maintain 500 ppm through about week 8. Then I'd start decreasing the bloom to decrease the PPM to desired level. I don't flush just slowly decrease ppms.

I'm surprised you're not complaining about yellow leaves. If you follow their feed schedule and start bloom day 1 of 12/12 generally yellowing leaves sets in prior to week 4. I learned plants need more N than most bloom products provide. It took a while and plenty of tweaking. But I figured it out and was able to keep nice healthy plants through completion.

A few months ago I started a convo with another grower. Who I don't know personally. But I've been seeing his posts for years and from what I've read I felt this guy makes sense and he's got decades under his belt for experience. He's explained to me that the issue I was facing wasn't only lack of N. But there's to much P also. That excess P supposedly makes it harder for the plants to get N. In other words he believes although my plants were healthy I really hadn't fixed the problem. I was only masking it by my increased N.

It sure seems logical so logical I decided to run a test. I used jacks classic citrus on some plants and on the others foliage pro and NO BLOOM. I'm sorry to say that I've had problems. My test included 3 strains. One of which I've had most leaves turn yellow with both nutes. I should have raised the PPM earlier than I did. I could go back to mixing grow or foliage pro with bloom. But even though I fucked up this batch I think it's all on me and I'm going down the right path. So I'm going to run my next set with jacks classic only and I'm going to raise my PPMs as I have in the past.

Since both these sets of nutes have more N than by old combo of grow and bloom I didn't think I'd have to adjust my PPM as much as I have in the past. My take away from this test is that was a bad assumption. So I expect much better results next time.

Foliage pro is stronger than grow so it will take less to get the job done. Those feed schedules usually run strong. Never use them. Start out with less than they say and raise it if more is needed. In veg I'd give 3 ml a gallon of grow with protect and RO water. The ppm comes out to about 280. That's full strength veg nutes for me for WELL established plants. Week 1 5mls is WAY to strong. Since I've got a cycle going I've always got plants in all phases. So I'd always have full strength veg nutes (280 ppm) on hand. For week 1 I'd cut my full strength veg nutes with RO water until the PPM was down to about 50. And I'd dilute less and less until it was well established.

I've got a blulab combo meter they work great. If it says 650. It's 650. Use less and get the PPMs where you want them. Much lower.

Using it for my Veg cycle for Bloom I use Heavy16. I love it, I may move too it for my bloom cycle as soon as im done from Heavy16

Veg Cycle Nutes Combo:
Dyna-grow
CalMag
Prime Heavy16
Fire Heavy16
Citrus
Berry
Terpinator

i've had no problems with House and garden line

Here is an interview with the president of Dyna-Grow.

Rather than listen to forum "experts" with more experience posting than knowledge of growing here is the owner of a fertilizer company telling the truth about nutes and marijuana.

You can throw away the bloom bottle. He only produced that due to customer demand. Not plants demand. And he admits it here.

MichiganMedGrower said:

Here is an interview with the president of Dyna-Grow.

Rather than listen to forum "experts" with more experience posting than knowledge of growing here is the owner of a fertilizer company telling the truth about nutes and marijuana.

You can throw away the bloom bottle. He only produced that due to customer demand. Not plants demand. And he admits it here.

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I had to learn the hard way about bloom. Kept reducing and reducing but never eliminated it until I got into a convo with another member here. His comments matched my results but I still couldn't believe that the whole industry pushes the wrong balances. It's worse than propaganda and the simple fact all the wrong ratios have names like bloom or boosters we all think we need it. Or at least I did. I'm done with bloom.

As a beginner who wouldn't want to flower without a bloom product? And holy shit if I could boost that blossom wouldn't that be great ! But that's not what they do like dude said some could be toxic.

Now I feel like a beginner again. First run didn't go the way I hoped. But I don't regret the shift I know what I did. So I'll do better this time.

I mix worm castings in my pro-mix, that usually is great for veg, I then use only FP for the rest of the grow at around 800 ppms and back it down at the end. grows huge dank nuggs.

Yeah I'm not sure about 800 ppm. But my problem was I didn't up the ppm the way I normally would have. I thought that I had been pushing the ppms to raise the N while masking the over abundance of P. So by reducing the P I thought I'd be fine with a lower ppm. I had 3 strains in the room. One strain has a yellowing problem. With the HPS lighting I didn't see the problem early enough. I caught in time for the other 2. Once I boosted the ppm 2 picked it up. The 3rd I couldn't stop. But that's on me. I bought the HPS glasses so I can see the leaf color they do help!

goldberg71b said:

Yeah I'm not sure about 800 ppm. But my problem was I didn't up the ppm the way I normally would have. I thought that I had been pushing the ppms to raise the N while masking the over abundance of P. So by reducing the P I thought I'd be fine with a lower ppm. I had 3 strains in the room. One strain has a yellowing problem. With the HPS lighting I didn't see the problem early enough. I caught in time for the other 2. Once I boosted the ppm 2 picked it up. The 3rd I couldn't stop. But that's on me. I bought the HPS glasses so I can see the leaf color they do help!

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Yup I started out with the kind 3 part bottles and alternately burned and faded my plants but I read a lot of books and greenhouse guides and such and have been using only well water, ocean forest/added large perlite and pure Blend Pro Grow in flower and have had happy plants for the most part til harvest ever since.

Different ratios are appropriate for water culture.

Until this last run I've been using DG only. In my little test I ran jacks classic citrus and FP. Unfortunately I didn't do a good enough job to consider my result. Ive just got to chalk this up to a learning experience and not really take anything away from it other than I went to light. So since neither was ran well I won't hold it against either.

I've been looking at the kind line for a couple months. And at this moment I think I might try them in the future. But I think I'm going to pick up the base 4-0-0 with 5% calcium. This way if I notice low N I can add a bit of the base to raise the N without adding more P. Then follow that up with a boost in overall ppm in future feedings without adding the base. I just think having the flexibility to raise N with raising the P would be beneficial to have on hand.

goldberg71b said:

I think I'm going to pick up the base 4-0-0 with 5% calcium. This way if I notice low N I can add a bit of the base to raise the N without adding more P. [...] I just think having the flexibility to raise N with raising the P would be beneficial to have on hand.

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4-0-0 with 5% calcium? that sounds like watered down calcium nitrate

Observe & Report said:

4-0-0 with 5% calcium? that sounds like watered down calcium nitrate

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You might be right. I just used my first solid fert jacks classic with K sulfate. And practically speaking it would do the same thing. Because I was also looking at a calcium nitrate from JR peters. It was 15-0-0 calcium nitrate.

Observe & Report said:

4-0-0 with 5% calcium? that sounds like watered down calcium nitrate

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That's all it is. The Grow and bloom bottles have the rest of the pk and micros.

goldberg71b said:

Until this last run I've been using DG only. In my little test I ran jacks classic citrus and FP. Unfortunately I didn't do a good enough job to consider my result. Ive just got to chalk this up to a learning experience and not really take anything away from it other than I went to light. So since neither was ran well I won't hold it against either.

I've been looking at the kind line for a couple months. And at this moment I think I might try them in the future. But I think I'm going to pick up the base 4-0-0 with 5% calcium. This way if I notice low N I can add a bit of the base to raise the N without adding more P. Then follow that up with a boost in overall ppm in future feedings without adding the base. I just think having the flexibility to raise N with raising the P would be beneficial to have on hand.

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If this is for potting mix in containers I think you may do better to pick a base complete nute like jacks classic 20-20-20 or dyna Grow foliage pro and just use that the whole cycle. Just taper the concentration up towards peak flowering and back down for ripening. Everything the plants need is in there.

This flower room is simply ocean forest with large perlite added and Botanicare pure Blend Grow only.

I mix a gallon of nutes individually for each plant as they are all at different stages and strains.

Observe & Report said:

4-0-0 with 5% calcium? that sounds like watered down calcium nitrate

Click to expand...

I think their base grow and bloom could be diluted because although I wouldn't follow I did look at their feed chart. It suggests using more than DG feed schedules do. But what I'm thinking about is the ability to mix all 3. It's 4-0-0 5% cal base -- 2-2-4 grow --- 0-6-6 bloom. I haven't been able to find a label to find out what else is in there for micro and trace elements. But the website says both grow and bloom have all essentials except for the calcium. DG also has all essentials elements in their grow and bloom products. But there's very little flexibility in how much N you can provide in relation to P. The kind line would allow a grower much more flexibility it the ratio between the two. That's what interests me about the whole line. But I surely noticed I was going to need more of it if I were to use it.

O

goldberg71b said:

I think their base grow and bloom could be diluted because although I wouldn't follow I did look at their feed chart. It suggests using more than DG feed schedules do. But what I'm thinking about is the ability to mix all 3. It's 4-0-0 5% cal base -- 2-2-4 grow --- 0-6-6 bloom. I haven't been able to find a label to find out what else is in there for micro and trace elements. But the website says both grow and bloom have all essentials except for the calcium. DG also has all essentials elements in their grow and bloom products. But there's very little flexibility in how much N you can provide in relation to P. The kind line would all a grow much more flexibility it the ratio between the two. That's what interests me about the whole line. But I surely noticed I was going to need more of it if I were to use it.

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It is a good system that is very flexible. But I have equal and lately better results with just the pure Blend Pro Grow.

It makes more sense in hydro.

Here is a Blue Lemon Thai bud pic I hope shows that boosters and different ratios are bullshit in potting mix.

More important to understand the relationship of your water and nutes/ soil.



The last BLT from the same seed pack harvested did 5.4 oz. dry in a #3 nursery pot. About 2.5 gallons of soil.

No additives just the one bottle and good transplant habits. And a good wet/dry cycle.

MichiganMedGrower said:

If this is for potting mix in containers I think you may do better to pick a base complete nute like jacks classic 20-20-20 or dyna Grow foliage pro and just use that the whole cycle. Just taper the concentration up towards peak flowering and back down for ripening. Everything the plants need is in there.

This flower room is simply ocean forest with large perlite added and Botanicare pure Blend Grow only.

I mix a gallon of nutes individually for each plant as they are all at different stages and strains.

View attachment 3956208

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I've been chatting with a guy who's been doing this for decades. And he's convinced me to much P can block a plants access to N. That's where my test started. On a debate basis he's argument is strong. My using less and less bloom backed it up. But I had never cut it out totally. I mixed ratios with grow and bloom as well as FP and bloom. I got it dialed in. But in our discussion I had been convinced I hadn't solved the problem but I masked it instead. So as far as 20-20-20 goes right now for what I'm thinking that's to much P for me. This last grow with FP as well as citrus I was back at square one with the yellowing. Now I know next time I need to add more N. There's 2 ways to do it increase overall rates of FP that wouldn't effects my NPK ratio. With FP I'm not worried about that. But the jacks citrus on the other hand I'd prefer to try to just raise the N. Since i didn't allow either set of nutes to do a good job I can't judge them. I no longer want to run multiple sets of nutes at the same time. Before I started 2 guys I trust told me they ran similar tests and they both think jacks citrus with proper supplements would outpreform foliage pro. One of these 2 guys has been using DG nutes for years and still does. But when even he's saying jacks would outperform the DG he's using I'm going to run my next set on jacks citrus and since jacks doesn't provide calcium I was leaning towards the kind line base. Specifically because it's not so strong and has some calcium I'll be looking for. In this last test I put it in the soil via lime and oyster shells. But since then I've picked up cal:mag 1-0-0. So my thinking is between the cal/mag and the kind base it would allow me the flexibility I'm looking for. But as O&R said I could do it with calcium nitrate but that's much stronger and since I'll be in uncharted waters with calcium nitrate I think it would be easier to over due it. Once I had a better idea on how much I wanted to add I could use my experience to use calcium nitrate in the proper amounts in the future with less chance of burning my plants while learning a new nute product is my thought process.

Just remember ALL FEED SCHEDULES are just guides , No Matter the Brand .

I use Dynagro ( still do ) and had learned less is more. I use it in soil and as foliar .
Dyna Gro Protekt is a good strong supplement but needs to be THROUGHLY stirred in water first.

I use Tap water ( nothing fancy ) because it is not stripped of calcium and magnesium like RO. 1 teaspoon per gallon - ph solution to 6.3-6.5 .... It also is almost spot on when i use tap. Foliage Pro is a better " grow " mix but the standard grow works pretty well. I Do not add anything else but the Protekt.

The BLOOM ( to me is the weakest ) , so i modify it. When plant throws pistils ( sexes ) , I still run a VEG FEED for first TWO WEEKS of flower , Then do a 50/50 mix of Grow and Bloom ( minus Protekt ) at 1 teaspoon each in gallon of mix.

Feed Schedules were created from their controlled grows and are usually at max.
It never works the same in your own growing environment ...

goldberg71b said:

I've been chatting with a guy who's been doing this for decades. And he's convinced me to much P can block a plants access to N. That's where my test started. On a debate basis he's argument is strong. My using less and less bloom backed it up. But I had never cut it out totally. I mixed ratios with grow and bloom as well as FP and bloom. I got it dialed in. But in our discussion I had been convinced I hadn't solved the problem but I masked it instead. So as far as 20-20-20 goes right now for what I'm thinking that's to much P for me. This last grow with FP as well as citrus I was back at square one with the yellowing. Now I know next time I need to add more N. There's 2 ways to do it increase overall rates of FP that wouldn't effects my NPK ratio. With FP I'm not worried about that. But the jacks citrus on the other hand I'd prefer to try to just raise the N. Since i didn't allow either set of nutes to do a good job I can't judge them. I no longer want to run multiple sets of nutes at the same time. Before I started 2 guys I trust told me they ran similar tests and they both think jacks citrus with proper supplements would put preform foliage pro. One of these 2 guys has been using DG nutes for years and still does. But when even he's saying jacks would outperform the DG he's using I'm going to run my next set on jacks citrus and since jacks doesn't provide calcium I was leaning towards the kind line base. Specifically because it's not so strong and has some calcium I'll be looking for. In this last test I put it in the soil via lime and oyster shells. But since then I've picked up cal:mag 1-0-0. So my thinking is between the cal/mag and the kind base it would allow me the flexibility I'm looking for. But as O&R said I could do it with calcium nitrate but that's much stronger and since I'll be in uncharted waters with calcium nitrate I think it would be easier to over due it. Once I had a better idea on how much I wanted to add I could use my experience to use calcium nitrate in the proper amounts in the future with less chance of burning my plants while learning a new nute product is my thought process.

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What potting mix are you using? And what is your water like? None of the above advice actually works the way it is explained. We feed the soil not the plant. The citation exchange (CEC) in the soil determines what elements are attracted and available. Not what we pour in directly.

Any complete base nute can work well.

I suggest learning about alkalinity and CEC to understand how plants get their elements. And transpiration to see how the environment affects uptake.

Also watering technique and environment will influence the results more than the nutes too.

And adding cal mag may just further clog the roots with unneeded salts. Just like adding extra potassium.