Does anyone know what these little fellas are please
- Thread starter Cheeseyfeet
- Start date
Cheeseyfeet
Member
I think there predator mites but could be wrong
Cheeseyfeet
Member
There not on the plants and there's no webbing though I was thinking more like soil mite
lime73
Weed Modifier
taken from sticky thread https://www.rollitup.org/bugs/335046-grizzlys-guide-pulverizing-pests.html
Spider mites
Prevent: Keep your growroom clean. Fully disinfect growroom with pesticide and 5% bleach solution before growing again after infestation.
Identify: A spider mite lives underneath the leaves of your plant and is invisible to the naked or untrained eye. These mites exist by sucking liquid that keeps your plant alive. They have eight legs and are classified a spider rather than an insect. Spider mites will be fully visible under a magnifying glass of 15x or greater. The mites are yellow/white, red, or most commonly are brown with two spots. These mites will spin webs which are a little easier to spot, but unfortunately mean the mites have been around awhile. Misting undersides of leaves will make webs much more visible and aid in detection. Females become fertilized for life once they mate and lay about 100 eggs every 5 days. 75% of all spider mite eggs become female.
This is the end of the progression of leaf damage due to spider mites, shortly after this point the leaf will die off completely. Note the stippling and spotting across the leaf.
Eradicate
Repression: Mites thrive in temperatures of 70-80F/21-27C with average to high humidities. Cooling off your room to 60F/16C and dropping the relative humidity will slow the reproduction and damage rate of the spider mite. 50% humidity and below is where they get uncomfortable. Spraying jets of water across undersides of leaves will literally blast colonies loose and slow the march of these pests considerably.
Predators: Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) californicus and Mesoseiulus (phytoseiulus) longipes are the two most common and effective predators available for purchase. These predators can eat 20 eggs or 5 adults daily and die when their food supply (i.e. spider mites) has been exhausted. 20 predators per plant is a good jumping off point.
Manual removal: The tiny size of the spider mite makes manual removal ineffective.
Sprays: Neem oil is the most effective. Other effective methods are pyrethrum, horticultural oil, and insecticidal soap. Spraying three times at 5 to 10 day intervals should be sufficient to destroy a mite population if sanitary conditions are maintained. Eggs of the spider mite hatch in 5-10 days. The first spray kills adults, the second will destroy newly hatched mites, and the third will kill the stragglers. If you choose to use pyrethrum, rotate to another chemical if you spray frequently. This will ensure mites will not develop a resistance to synthetic pyrethrum. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING A CHEMICAL MITICIDE IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO SO! Several miticides have DDT or fungal relatives that are toxic if inhaled by humans!
https://www.rollitup.org/bugs/475307-how-kill-spider-mites-100-a.html
Spider mites
Prevent: Keep your growroom clean. Fully disinfect growroom with pesticide and 5% bleach solution before growing again after infestation.
Identify: A spider mite lives underneath the leaves of your plant and is invisible to the naked or untrained eye. These mites exist by sucking liquid that keeps your plant alive. They have eight legs and are classified a spider rather than an insect. Spider mites will be fully visible under a magnifying glass of 15x or greater. The mites are yellow/white, red, or most commonly are brown with two spots. These mites will spin webs which are a little easier to spot, but unfortunately mean the mites have been around awhile. Misting undersides of leaves will make webs much more visible and aid in detection. Females become fertilized for life once they mate and lay about 100 eggs every 5 days. 75% of all spider mite eggs become female.
This is the end of the progression of leaf damage due to spider mites, shortly after this point the leaf will die off completely. Note the stippling and spotting across the leaf.
Eradicate
Repression: Mites thrive in temperatures of 70-80F/21-27C with average to high humidities. Cooling off your room to 60F/16C and dropping the relative humidity will slow the reproduction and damage rate of the spider mite. 50% humidity and below is where they get uncomfortable. Spraying jets of water across undersides of leaves will literally blast colonies loose and slow the march of these pests considerably.
Predators: Neoseiulus (Amblyseius) californicus and Mesoseiulus (phytoseiulus) longipes are the two most common and effective predators available for purchase. These predators can eat 20 eggs or 5 adults daily and die when their food supply (i.e. spider mites) has been exhausted. 20 predators per plant is a good jumping off point.
Manual removal: The tiny size of the spider mite makes manual removal ineffective.
Sprays: Neem oil is the most effective. Other effective methods are pyrethrum, horticultural oil, and insecticidal soap. Spraying three times at 5 to 10 day intervals should be sufficient to destroy a mite population if sanitary conditions are maintained. Eggs of the spider mite hatch in 5-10 days. The first spray kills adults, the second will destroy newly hatched mites, and the third will kill the stragglers. If you choose to use pyrethrum, rotate to another chemical if you spray frequently. This will ensure mites will not develop a resistance to synthetic pyrethrum. BE CAREFUL IN CHOOSING A CHEMICAL MITICIDE IF YOU CHOOSE TO DO SO! Several miticides have DDT or fungal relatives that are toxic if inhaled by humans!
https://www.rollitup.org/bugs/475307-how-kill-spider-mites-100-a.html
lime73
Weed Modifier
cuz its in the early stage of infestation...once they mature and lay more eggs it will get worse if not treated asap...least you dont have a full blown infestation yet!
they like to hide under leaves..check there too
Cheeseyfeet
Member
Thanks for your help I will get some neem oil tomorrow
Cheeseyfeet
Member
I have checked all the plants and can't find any mites up there I also have lollipoped the bottom 3rd of the plants in flower. It just seems like there comin out the soil because when I move the soil they come out to play ha I thought they might be Hypoaspis Miles is that a possibility
lime73
Weed Modifier
actually... you may be correct!
Hypoaspis Miles only live in soil and don't eat the plant..they are predators that eat other insects, like gnats and aphids.
need a better close up of bugs to identify
Cheeseyfeet
Member
I don't have a better camera unfortunately but that second pic looks pretty close to one I'd say thanks again I'll keep my eye on them
lime73
Weed Modifier
Hypoaspis miles
Hypoaspis mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1/50 inch) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1/2 inch layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects aren't available. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen. Hypoaspis is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Hypoaspsis will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.
Hypoaspis mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1/50 inch) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1/2 inch layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects aren't available. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen. Hypoaspis is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Hypoaspsis will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.
Diabolical666
Well-Known Member
Never heard of anyone having these in their soil, they sound awesome!!!! Where could I buy these?!?!LOL any ways they may hae come in the soil you have, they may be aphids, most likely not spider mites bc you and I know they would be all over that plant
I'd just get rid of them with a Neem oil cocktail (water with neem)
jondamon
Well-Known Member
Never heard of anyone having these in their soil, they sound awesome!!!! Where could I buy these?!?!LOL any ways they may hae come in the soil you have, they may be aphids, most likely not spider mites bc you and I know they would be all over that plant
Hypoaspis miles should be orderable online.
My local hydro store offers a predator service.
J
bertaluchi
Well-Known Member
I think I have the same bugs. They seem to be all over the soil when I water but the plants are bug free with no signs of damage. At first I thought they were spider mites but because I see no activity on the plants I think I may be dealing with the same bugs as you.
