Does the new Area 51 w90 have potential?

mouse1818 said:

I dont have any of those tools lol.

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Mouse...

Really bare bones, you could go without all the tools...No wire strippers? Use scissors and teeth ...No Drill use the Bridgelux Vero's with Pico EzMate wiring Harness and use Kapton Tape to hold down the Cob's. No Drilling/ No Soldering....[Fyi, I have 40w version going on 6 months+ with this method, just to test it! ]
No Hacksaw ? Find a Sharp Corner....

Hand Tools [Screwdriver [Phillips] could be used w/ Self Tapping Screws to hold framework together instead of using a drill.....

Also Bridgelux Vero 29's are out there for $28!

Abiqua said:

Mouse...

Really bare bones, you could go without all the tools...No wire strippers? Use scissors and teeth ...No Drill use the Bridgelux Vero's with Pico EzMate wiring Harness and use Kapton Tape to hold down the Cob's. No Drilling/ No Soldering....[Fyi, I have 40w version going on 6 months+ with this method, just to test it! ]
No Hacksaw ? Find a Sharp Corner....

Hand Tools [Screwdriver [Phillips] could be used w/ Self Tapping Screws to hold framework together instead of using a drill.....

Also Bridgelux Vero 29's are out there for $28!

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That's so good, I forget sometimes how to mcgiuver things, I remember striping with teeth lol, great advice

Iceveign said:

All good points Tim Fox. From what I've been rtding I'll also need to buy a multimeter and and other tools to do the job, all which will be time consuming and If I am going to do a build I have decided to order the cxb3590 and buy a fluke multimeter. The main reason I was looking at a factory built light is because I have some plants growing under a mars hydro reflector series 3x96 and it's just not cutting it, so I was trying to find a quick fix to save at least one plant that has been flowering for about a month.

However this area 51 light won't be ready to ship for another 2 weeks so it really doesn't solve my problem.

Talked to king Brite last night and I'm close to ordering those cxb 3590 cd cobs.

Nice light!

I agree with everything you posted, thx.

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Every light I have built so far I have not used a multi meter,, the wire is color coded, red is positive black is ground, simply easy really

I guess I just always wanted a multimeter and getting into electronics seems like a good excuse to buy another tool.

Abiqua said:

Mouse...

Really bare bones, you could go without all the tools...No wire strippers? Use scissors and teeth ...No Drill use the Bridgelux Vero's with Pico EzMate wiring Harness and use Kapton Tape to hold down the Cob's. No Drilling/ No Soldering....[Fyi, I have 40w version going on 6 months+ with this method, just to test it! ]
No Hacksaw ? Find a Sharp Corner....

Hand Tools [Screwdriver [Phillips] could be used w/ Self Tapping Screws to hold framework together instead of using a drill.....

Also Bridgelux Vero 29's are out there for $28!

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I'm gonna make one soon then. 1 cob with the cxb3590 or what would be the best cob to get for flowering for not too expensive?

mouse1818 said:

I'm gonna make one soon then. 1 cob with the cxb3590 or what would be the best cob to get for flowering for not too expensive?

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I would look at the Meanwell LPC-100 [$27-33] and run a single Bridgelux Vero 29 3000k....$30 w/Pico connector...The 29 when ran at 2.1 amps is putting out about 75 watts @ 40% efficiency....[75*.40= 30 PAR Watts Emmitted/ 45 Watt Heat] [basically $1/PAR watt]

The 3590's are really nice, especially for running really high efficiency [50+%] but you suffer from a cost penalty.....$50+ USD

For example 1x 3590 36volt Version @ 1.4 amps = 50 watts output roughly @54% efficiency...

[50x .54 = 27 PAR watts emmitted] @ $50 = $1.85/PAR watt...[Costs a tad more per PAR watt emitted, even though its is more efficient!!!!!!]

Abiqua said:

I would look at the Meanwell LPC-100 [$27-33] and run a single Bridgelux Vero 29 3000k....$30 w/Pico connector...The 29 when ran at 2.1 amps is putting out about 75 watts @ 40% efficiency....[75*.40= 30 PAR Watts Emmitted/ 45 Watt Heat] [basically $1/PAR watt]

The 3590's are really nice, especially for running really high efficiency [50+%] but you suffer from a cost penalty.....$50+ USD

For example 1x 3590 36volt Version @ 1.4 amps = 50 watts output roughly @54% efficiency...

[50x .54 = 27 PAR watts emmitted] @ $50 = $1.85/PAR watt...[Costs a tad more per PAR watt emitted, even though its is more efficient!!!!!!]

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Thanks so much for the help man this way makes it so much more affordable! Which array holder do I buy and how do I power the heat sink fan? sorry I'm new to diy-ing electronics lol.
here is the list of things I will buy lmk if i need anything else:
power supply
cob
cob holder which to buy?
pico ezmate
heatsink
pc fan
lens - which to buy?

mouse1818 said:

Thanks so much for the help man this way makes it so much more affordable! Which array holder do I buy and how do I power the heat sink fan?

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Veros have a built in holder!....just get the right hardware [M3 screws] and they will hold it down from tapped holes....just get the wire adaptor "Pico EzMate'....about $1 extra, snap on wire harness [good chit!]

The Crees both 3070's/3590's, I recommend the Ideal holders....

[/quote]

power supply

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Meanwell LPC 100-xxxx
http://www.powergatellc.com/mean-well-LPC-100-power-supply.html

cob

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Vero 29's @ Digikey....or Veros and Cree 3070/3590 from Kingbrite on Alibaba....

pico ezmate

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$1+ each @ Digikey

heatsink

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You can use the Arctic Alpine 11+ CPU coolers $10 shipped @NewEgg
or you can buy raw slab and put fan directly on them and use the power supply I mention below

pc fan

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If you buy, cpu coolers, they are included...Use Meanwell APC 12-xxxx....Constant current Version! 12vDC Output...at least 1000mA output as well...

lens - which to buy?

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Welp, these are pretty dope, if you have the coin....
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=nwALWJny2wXdjLqXw/8TTw==


but Ebay square cob lenses [same thing, just measure diameter!] can be had for a few $'s....

Got the heatsink+fan from an old computer to save 32 bucks! Cost for this led light will be around $100 not including shipping using the vero 29 3000k.

Nice Man, way to get it done, take the LED DIY road like a man,, lol build that sucker and welcome to the DARK SIDE!!!!

mouse1818 said:

Got the heatsink+fan from an old computer to save 32 bucks! Cost for this led light will be around $100 not including shipping using the vero 29 3000k.

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okay you clever handy DIY guys, it's very cool that you share your knowledge on how to make your own LED lights. But let me ask a question regarding AREA51 W90 - what kind of LEDs it is using ? Is it a 3 watt LEDs ? It's not written in the product's description on their web but I'm assuming you, clever dudes, will know this for sure. And I'm asking this because I read the specifications of this other LED light here and I want to see if It's similar or not.

the area 51 w90 uses the vero29 cob, its a single chip, its vastly differant than that "blurple light" you linked to, those silly 3 watt chip lights cant hold a candle to the cob lights, you asked if the w90 is simular or not to the led you linked, the answer is no,
here is the vero 29

http://www.digikey.com/catalog/en/partgroup/vero-29-array-series/43475
http://www.bridgelux.com/sites/default/files/resource_media/DS33 Bridgelux Vero 29 Data Sheet Rev H 20150626.pdf

• Market leading efficacy of 120 lm/W typical and 110 lm/W minimum
• Vero 29 lumen output performance ranges from 2,500 to as much as 16,300 lumens
• Broad range of CCT options from 2700K to 5000K
• CRI options include minimum 70, 80, and 90
• 2 and 3 SDCM color control for 2700K-4000K CCT
• Reliable operation at up to 1.5X nominal drive current
• Radial die pattern and improved lumen density
• • Flux @ Current/Temperature - Test:7049 lm (Typ) ~ 11340 lm (Typ)

Thank you Tim Fox for explaining this to me. So that's what you guys mean when you say blurple. Okay.

Of course I didn't understand much in that part where numbers are posted but the phrase "those silly 3 watt chip lights cant hold a candle to the cob lights" draws a very clear picture in my head.
Is it possible to compare w90 to HPS and to say that it's equivalent to 300 watts HPS bulb ?

This is a copy and paste from Plantphotonics' website, same page that you linked:

"I have added a new metric to help customers choose the correct light. Each light has a comparison to traditional MH/HPS lights. This value is approximate, but is based on feedback from expert growers. The feedback was for the old style lights and was unanimous that a 140 watt light was equal to or slightly more powerful than a 400 watt MH/HPS. Based on light readings from the new lights, I calculate that a new 140 watt light will equal a 500 watt MH/HPS. As soon as I get feedback on the new lights, I will update this figure as I believe it is easier for most growers who are familiar with the performance of MH/HPS lighting."

Them saying that their 140w light equals 500w of HPS/MH is a flat out lie. Nothing like that exists today, if it did, more people would be using it. A lot more people.

Realistically, the newest and the best LEDs are more like 1 watt of LED equals 2 watts of HID. But the only way to achieve that is to build the lamp yourself. You'd need to use Cree CXB and under drive it.

The Area 51 lights are way better than the Plantphotonics, and much cheaper too. Plus they don't make outrageous claims that 100w equals 320w or 140w equals 500w. That's just asinine.

I've noticed that Area 51 use 80CRI vero 29 emitters as do most others.

Is there a reason they don't use 90CRI as the cost per emitter is the same?

Area51 also recommend 4000K for veg+flower set ups but y'all seem to recommend the 3000K emitters. Any elaboration on this?

I'm planning to build a light and would love some advice on drivers/ power supply as I am unfamiliar with optimal set up for LEDs. My plan is to go seed(or clone) to harvest in a 3'x3' tent with just this.

My parts list so far:

4x BXRC-40E10K0-L-23 (vero 29 v2, 4000K, 80 CRI)

4x Arctic Alpine 11 Plus 92mm fan

4x Mean Well LPC-100-2100

justsomedude41 said:

I've noticed that Area 51 use 80CRI vero 29 emitters as do most others.

Is there a reason they don't use 90CRI as the cost per emitter is the same?

Area51 also recommend 4000K for veg+flower set ups but y'all seem to recommend the 3000K emitters. Any elaboration on this?

I'm planning to build a light and would love some advice on drivers/ power supply as I am unfamiliar with optimal set up for LEDs. My plan is to go seed(or clone) to harvest in a 3'x3' tent with just this.

My parts list so far:

4x BXRC-40E10K0-L-23 (vero 29 v2, 4000K, 80 CRI)

4x Arctic Alpine 11 Plus 92mm fan

4x Mean Well LPC-100-2100

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You can search around in the LED forums if you really want a background on CRI....

the gist is to achieve high CRI, it is essentially a photon throttle, slightly less photon output to make it look good to the human eye....80cri will be non issue....

vegging / flowering with 3K, 3.5K and 4k all have examples....3k was the start of this "revolution" with white light....but then has progress across a few different spectrums....

3k will have the most red/ least blue....4k will have most blue/ least red and 3500k is somewhere in between...

Even 500k with 630/660nm is possible...

Your parts list looks good too @ 2.1 amps...

Hi, folks!

I'm a newbie here - one grow under my belt outdoors (soil/bagseed), about to make the leap to indoor soil grow using quality genetics. I posted a similar version of this to another Area51 thread but didn't get any responses except a PM from an Amare shill.

I'm in DC and can legally grow six plants of which three can be 'mature' (i.e. flowering). I'm looking to try a perpetual grow where I have three in staggered flower, and three more in veg. That could involve up to nine weeks veg followed by nine weeks flower.

I have set up a 4x4 grow tent, but when I look at the footprint of three 15-gallon smartpots I've put in there, it seems to come out to about 2x4 for the plants alone. Therefore, that's the actual coverage I think I'll need from the grow light(s).

I realize that I can DIY something better and cheaper than already-assembled fixtures, but I'm willing to pay a bit of a premium to have it done for me.

I'm not growing to sell, and I don't really consume very much, so while it would be nice to have lots to share with friends, my primary interest is in growing very high quality product rather than high yield.

In order to minimize heat, noise, maintenance, and wattage, I'm interested in LED grow lights like the Area51s. Since the start times of the flowering plants would be staggered and they'd thus be at differing heights, it seems to make sense to me to have three smaller fixtures rather than one jumbo unit. So, my questions are...

--> Can three W90s cover my 2x4 grow area?
--> If I dedicate them to just flower, should I get the 3000Ks instead of the 4000Ks?

(I'm not looking to hijack this thread away from Area51, but think it's reasonable to discuss them within context of the competition)

--> Since I don't really care about quantity just quality, and since I'm a bit of a tightwad, can I do as well/better with another brand?
i.e., what's the cheapest LED or CFL solution I can use for vegging my three plants for up to nine weeks that still grows quality plants?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

i can't comprehend your math where pots make a 4x4 tent turn in to a useable 2x4 grow space.

How tall is the grow tent?

I didn't say that I only had 2x4 of useable space, but that I plan to only use 2x4 of the 4x4.
I'm only going to be flowering three plants.
It's 80" tall.

Tim Fox said:

you can also build this light it uses 4 cxb3070 s and a single driver better light but a little more expensive,
cost $267 but its 4 higher p ower more efficient cobs, here is a build web site with pictures
http://www.reddit.com/r/microgrowery/comments/31w1au/finally_finished_wiring_up_my_diy_4_x_cxb3070/
looks like this picture those are not my plants and not my picture, borrowed it, but that is the build shownView attachment 3478717

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lol wow, weird coming into a thread I've never seen and seeing my light