Does this set up sound Ok?

Hi, first timer here. I have bought most parts for this set up already. Just making sure it sounds Ok to you guys? Lol. This is what I'm using (I think lol)

1.2 M x 1.2 M x 2 M Tent
600W dimmable ballast (Dimmable to 400W)
600W dual spec bulb
1 Meter diameter MIRO IV parabolic reflector (Same material that grostar uses, meant to keep it cooler than the average parabolic)
6" InLine fan - Soler & Palau TD 500 PRO (253 CFM/341 CFM)
8" Exhaust fan - Pre boxed MDF acoustic boxed fan (588 CFM)
10" Phresh carbon filter
6" acoustic ducting (I don't know why I bought this lol)
10" acoustic ducting (From Exhaust to filter?)
Ecotechnics inlet/outlet fan speed/heater/temp/humidity controller (Any feedback on this product at all would be appreciated, it's not a 'variac' I don't think but I was told they are decent for controlling fan speeds temp and humidity, but they will hum under 25 percent)

Will also be getting a tube heater if needed. Do you think I would need one as it is only in my bedroom? Is there anything else I am missing out here? Haha.

Does this sound like an Ok set up to you guys? I will be slowing the fans down and using acoustic ducting to dampen down the sound.

Will my inline want to run maybe half the speed my exhaust is running at?

Can you please let me know if this sounds Ok before I unbox things and go to set it up? :P

Thanks guys and apologies in advance as I am just a learner. Cheers bongsmilie
 

fir3dragon

Well-Known Member
Hi, first timer here. I have bought most parts for this set up already. Just making sure it sounds Ok to you guys? Lol. This is what I'm using (I think lol)

1.2 M x 1.2 M x 2 M Tent
600W dimmable ballast (Dimmable to 400W)
600W dual spec bulb
1 Meter diameter MIRO IV parabolic reflector (Same material that grostar uses, meant to keep it cooler than the average parabolic)
6" InLine fan - Soler & Palau TD 500 PRO (253 CFM/341 CFM)
8" Exhaust fan - Pre boxed MDF acoustic boxed fan (588 CFM)
10" Phresh carbon filter
6" acoustic ducting (I don't know why I bought this lol)
10" acoustic ducting (From Exhaust to filter?)
Ecotechnics inlet/outlet fan speed/heater/temp/humidity controller (Any feedback on this product at all would be appreciated, it's not a 'variac' I don't think but I was told they are decent for controlling fan speeds temp and humidity, but they will hum under 25 percent)

Will also be getting a tube heater if needed. Do you think I would need one as it is only in my bedroom? Is there anything else I am missing out here? Haha.

Does this sound like an Ok set up to you guys? I will be slowing the fans down and using acoustic ducting to dampen down the sound.

Will my inline want to run maybe half the speed my exhaust is running at?

Can you please let me know if this sounds Ok before I unbox things and go to set it up? :P

Thanks guys and apologies in advance as I am just a learner. Cheers bongsmilie
im a little lost on your fans. It says 6 inch inline 8 inch exhaust and a 10 inch filter... Your not getting a 10 inch fan, a 10 inch filter isn't ended without a fan to fit... Also make sure your getting proper Inline fans. I wouldn't get any of them booster pieces of shit. If setup right, you can use passive intake. Also your going to need either a air cooled hood, or some serious ac for that 600
 

100Lights

New Member
In such a small box you only need a large exhast, no need for an inline and an exhaust! They will be fighting each other... Read up on negative pressure! You just need a small home in the bottom corner and a larger exhaust somewhere up top! Keep it simple! You should not need a heater if its in your room too
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
the inline is for a the intake the 6 inch .......to keep the tent from concaving do to the exhust

they are correct about the exhust fan that is for like a 6x6x6

ok and sounds like u might have a issuse with the fiilter ....................the filter should always match the fan cfm .........u have a 8 inch fan with a 10 in filter i know that is going to be off

here this is more then enough power for the exhust ...............the link....as for the hook up it works like this
carbon filter....ducting .....light ......ducting.....fan ....ducting to exhust point (suxing tho filter and tho light then ejecting)
or
carbon filter....ducting...fan....ducting......light..... ..ducting to end point (sucking tho filter blowing tho the light then ejection)

they link a fan speed controller u can use one of those on that (as for the noise it sounds like a fan on medium or a ac unit on low )

if u want a power intake too that 6 inch one u have will work u can turn down the big one with the speed controll match it or have it on full
 
Ahh Ok that's fine. The S&P fan I bought says it's a 'mixed flow inline' fan. It's not a silent version but meant to be a decent version? Though now I don't even know if I'll need it as it only pushes 341 CFM max which wouldn't be enough for the exhaust right?

Also 6x6x6???? :/ So are you saying my fans are wayyy too large for the 1.2x1.2 set up? If so, I was advised to buy fans larger than I need by other forum members, so that I can slow it down to say half, and cut some of the noise as I have been worried about too much humming or whatever as it's in my bedroom. I was told the bigger the fan the less noise it will make when slowed down.

And I was also under the impression you could have a larger carbon filter as long as it can handle over what the fan is pushing. My bad :lol: And was also told the ducting can be larger towards the end to spread the air more. (I'm not the best at english when I'm high haha)

I haven't bought the filter yet so no worries there I can buy one to match the exhaust fan I get.

Sorry for just asking you straight up guys..... but I'm sooo confused I had my 3ft x 3ft all planned out but sent most things back and swapped for larger sizes.

But what would you guys do here? I can't get an air cooled right now not until after my first grow at least so gonna have to stick with the 1Meter diameter parabolic. How many CFM should I be moving then to cool a 1.2M x 1.2M if I have a 600W and large parabolic?

Oh man my morning fuzzy head is on and I'm a little high too so I'm gonna go grab a cup of tea and will pop back in a short while bongsmilie

I know it's irritating asking 'what to dooooo' haha but please help me out lol.

Thanks guys! :wall:
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
Ahh Ok that's fine. The S&P fan I bought says it's a 'mixed flow inline' fan. It's not a silent version but meant to be a decent version? Though now I don't even know if I'll need it as it only pushes 341 CFM max which wouldn't be enough for the exhaust right?

Also 6x6x6???? :/ So are you saying my fans are wayyy too large for the 1.2x1.2 set up? If so, I was advised to buy fans larger than I need by other forum members, so that I can slow it down to say half, and cut some of the noise as I have been worried about too much humming or whatever as it's in my bedroom. I was told the bigger the fan the less noise it will make when slowed down.

And I was also under the impression you could have a larger carbon filter as long as it can handle over what the fan is pushing. My bad :lol: And was also told the ducting can be larger towards the end to spread the air more. (I'm not the best at english when I'm high haha)

I haven't bought the filter yet so no worries there I can buy one to match the exhaust fan I get.

Sorry for just asking you straight up guys..... but I'm sooo confused I had my 3ft x 3ft all planned out but sent most things back and swapped for larger sizes.

But what would you guys do here? I can't get an air cooled right now not until after my first grow at least so gonna have to stick with the 1Meter diameter parabolic. How many CFM should I be moving then to cool a 1.2M x 1.2M if I have a 600W and large parabolic?

Oh man my morning fuzzy head is on and I'm a little high too so I'm gonna go grab a cup of tea and will pop back in a short while bongsmilie

I know it's irritating asking 'what to dooooo' haha but please help me out lol.

Thanks guys! :wall:
yes sir to large

the math for the cfm is done in Feet ..width x lenght x height.................this gives u the cf for the grow area..............u want to replace that air in there with fresh air atleast once every 3 mins (the avg agreed on time for growers)
so it is W xL xH then devide that by 3 and that is the minal CFM u need to have ......then u factor in 25% more for the heat from the light (if u live in a hot humitied area add anuther 25%)

so it is W x L x H devided by 3 then plus 25% and the 25% if needed ...........and that should give u good healthy plants

as for the ducting alls large does is decrease the air speed and pressure from the ejection point


for your system it goes like this
u need the system to remove the heat from the tent so the carbon filter is at the very top and then your reflector is below that .....this is so the heat in the room is ejected since it raises
the hook up is carbon filer......... ducting...........fan......ducting to exhust point

as for sound u can incase the fan in a box with Eggshell crate foam (those cheap bed foam thing) .............but if the temp in the box hits over 140 the fan will start to fail so u need to keep a eye on that ......but it will reduce the sound

the fan speed controller only works on inline fans (like the one i linked u ) they do not work on booster fans so do not even try

and no big thing man if u got ?s or unsure ask that is how u learn ...........anyone gives u shit about that is just a jackass with issuses.........plus u learn later on u pass the info to other ppl so works out someone u teach might show a kid of mine one day or a buddies kid so it works out in the end
 
yes sir to large

the math for the cfm is done in Feet ..width x lenght x height.................this gives u the cf for the grow area..............u want to replace that air in there with fresh air atleast once every 3 mins (the avg agreed on time for growers)
so it is W xL xH then devide that by 3 and that is the minal CFM u need to have ......then u factor in 25% more for the heat from the light (if u live in a hot humitied area add anuther 25%)

so it is W x L x H devided by 3 then plus 25% and the 25% if needed ...........and that should give u good healthy plants

as for the ducting alls large does is decrease the air speed and pressure from the ejection point


for your system it goes like this
u need the system to remove the heat from the tent so the carbon filter is at the very top and then your reflector is below that .....this is so the heat in the room is ejected since it raises
the hook up is carbon filer......... ducting...........fan......ducting to exhust point

as for sound u can incase the fan in a box with Eggshell crate foam (those cheap bed foam thing) .............but if the temp in the box hits over 140 the fan will start to fail so u need to keep a eye on that ......but it will reduce the sound

the fan speed controller only works on inline fans (like the one i linked u ) they do not work on booster fans so do not even try

and no big thing man if u got ?s or unsure ask that is how u learn ...........anyone gives u shit about that is just a jackass with issuses.........plus u learn later on u pass the info to other ppl so works out someone u teach might show a kid of mine one day or a buddies kid so it works out in the end
Oh Ok. I have always done W x L x H x by 3 instead of dividing it how silly do I feel. I thought the air had to be exchanged 3 times a minute! Lol so that's how I have calculated this wrong in the first place and reached such a high 'CFM'. I came up with 288 CFM.

So then.... 4ft x 4ft x 6ft would be 96 cubic feet. I divide that by 3 which leaves me with 32 CFM? That just sounds really low to me. But going with it... I add 25%... (I'm guessing you mean 25% of 96 then)

So 32 + 25% (for heat) of 96 (24) would be 56 CFM. Add an extra 25% (for humidity) and that would be 80 CFM. So the least I would need would be 80 CFM? Is that right? Something tells me it's not.

And about the fan. So is the S&P TD-500 a bad fan to use for the exhaust? Is it a 'booster fan'? What is a booster fan haha. So I couldn't use it for that exhaust now I don't need an inlet? I don't know if I am allowed to post links :/ But it is the 500 version of this but only pushes about 350 odd CFM at the most http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Soler-Palau-TD-200-Inline-Mixed-Flow-Fan-8-/321108327194?pt=Ceiling_Fan&hash=item4ac38c3b1a

By the way I am in the UK so would need the right amps/volts etc.

And does that fan in the link quieten down once the speed is controlled then? And do you think it is worth getting that piece of kit (its called ecotechnics evolution controller, this is it here http://www.ecotechnics.co.uk/fan_speed_contoller.htm) and it is meant to help keep humidity and temp etc in check or something. Controlling the humidity is something I need to learn about too that's why I thought it sounded good lol, sounded like a god send you type in the min/max of everything you want it to control. Anywaysssss ......

If I'm better off getting that kit in the link I may have the cash to buy that now as I have been buying seperate things (I'm a sucker for more expensive branded products as I gather they are better lol)

Thanks for the advice on which order to set my stuff up in too it really is appreciated man you may find me private messaging you at some point if I get stuck lol. ;-)

I feel like I'm going on lol. I hope I haven't missed anything out here. Cheers justugh :lol: You are extremely helpful :eyesmoke:
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
no that is right

i have a 4x4x6 myself .............but i run a 400 cfm exhust fan since i have 2 600 watt lights in it (mh/hps)

and your math is right ...............u only need the air to exchange once every 3 mins (minial ) u can have it much higher ......mine exchanges once every 15 secs when i have the power on high

bad stoner no do not buy the big electronic thing................u are moving in 5 months that things basically take u 2 weeks to set it up and then u are going to break it down to move out to new place ...............no worth getting one untill u are in new place and have a larger set up ...............something like that would be great in a 8x8 or a 10x10

but a 4x4 u do not need anything like that u can controll all that stuff pretty simple

2 lights on fan going full the tent temps alter by 10 degrees .....outside the tent is 70 at the suck out point in the tent 80 82(lower the outside air temp and u decrease the inside temp and it is winter so no need for ac just lower the heat) .............humity is easy to much u have a dehumifier .........to little put a mason jar on top of a heating unit and fill with some water (it heats up to warm room it releases little water in the air )

and as for the rest u are not going that deep into it (plus the set up alone for all that good stuff is going to run u 1200 2000 bucks)


my last advice would be to order autoflowering seeds ..................from seed to smokable stuff it is running me 72 75 days total
biodiesel mass
berry diesel

are 2 good big strains ...........biodiesel mass i pulled 5 oz and 6 oz off 2 plants ..........i used 7 gallon air/soil bags/pots
 
no that is right

i have a 4x4x6 myself .............but i run a 400 cfm exhust fan since i have 2 600 watt lights in it (mh/hps)

and your math is right ...............u only need the air to exchange once every 3 mins (minial ) u can have it much higher ......mine exchanges once every 15 secs when i have the power on high

bad stoner no do not buy the big electronic thing................u are moving in 5 months that things basically take u 2 weeks to set it up and then u are going to break it down to move out to new place ...............no worth getting one untill u are in new place and have a larger set up ...............something like that would be great in a 8x8 or a 10x10

but a 4x4 u do not need anything like that u can controll all that stuff pretty simple

2 lights on fan going full the tent temps alter by 10 degrees .....outside the tent is 70 at the suck out point in the tent 80 82(lower the outside air temp and u decrease the inside temp and it is winter so no need for ac just lower the heat) .............humity is easy to much u have a dehumifier .........to little put a mason jar on top of a heating unit and fill with some water (it heats up to warm room it releases little water in the air )

and as for the rest u are not going that deep into it (plus the set up alone for all that good stuff is going to run u 1200 2000 bucks)


my last advice would be to order autoflowering seeds ..................from seed to smokable stuff it is running me 72 75 days total
biodiesel mass
berry diesel

are 2 good big strains ...........biodiesel mass i pulled 5 oz and 6 oz off 2 plants ..........i used 7 gallon air/soil bags/pots
You have 2 600W lights in a 4x4x6 ft tent? :O That's crazy! :P

Haha I have probably already spent near that already on the things I bought lol. So Ok then. I'm glad my maths is right :) So could I have it running at 150 or 200 CFM with no problems due to the filter etc added onto it? Or is 200 too high still? That should keep any heat problems under control right?

Nice one I can get hold of a dehumidifier when I need to anyways. So I decrease the ambient heat or humidity outside the tent and it will help it come down inside the tent, cheers. Sounds simpler already.

I will take a look at those seeds :)

One last question.... So is it definitely out the question to use the S&P fan for the exhaust if I use a variac or not? I hear'd they are reliable but you have to push more CFM than you need due to the filter etc slowing it down. I don't know if it is classed as a 'booster fan' or not. But they are better quality fans for sure. Then I would only need to buy a speed controller/variac (which it says it works with) and my carbon filter and then I am ready to blast off. I could do that now. Pay for them. If not I will have to save up for another fan for the exhaust. Let me know :)

Cheers :eyesmoke:
 
So I guess that is my main question. Do I NEED to get a new fan or will the S&P be Ok if I use a variac to slow it down? Thanks
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
yes i am nutty .............but the 2 600 watts are in cool tubes and allows me to run all in one tent MH and HPS at the same time comes out to about 140,000 lumens

a 200 cfm would be more then enough as for the brands i truly can not give any advice on it

in my resreach i found out that the brand called active air (the grreen ones) are a few DB lower then the other ones only like 8 but every bit counts ...............i would still tell u to look at a 400 cfm ......if worst case u can run on full and that replaces the air 8 times a min and heat has no way to build up (the speed controller will allow u to lower it

the differnet fans
that white one is call a inline can fan (those are the ones the speed controllers work one)
that silver one is called a inline booster fan ............this does not work with a speed controller
 

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fir3dragon

Well-Known Member
yes i am nutty .............but the 2 600 watts are in cool tubes and allows me to run all in one tent MH and HPS at the same time comes out to about 140,000 lumens

a 200 cfm would be more then enough as for the brands i truly can not give any advice on it

in my resreach i found out that the brand called active air (the grreen ones) are a few DB lower then the other ones only like 8 but every bit counts ...............i would still tell u to look at a 400 cfm ......if worst case u can run on full and that replaces the air 8 times a min and heat has no way to build up (the speed controller will allow u to lower it

the differnet fans
that white one is call a inline can fan (those are the ones the speed controllers work one)
that silver one is called a inline booster fan ............this does not work with a speed controller
I will like to add once again, the booster fans are a piece of shit, and will not work with a carbon filter
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
yes but they make decent powered intakes lower then the cfm of the exhust .............they reduce the concave of the tent if the person is running a aggressive exhust .......u know 4 times refresh in 1 min over kill factor ..............if i did not have one that tent looks like a art project (4x4x6 concaved cube u see in public art)

and i just built a filter box out of a post office 2 day shipping box(large flat rate 12x12x5or7) a air filter lvl 9(12x12x1) (clears smoke) and duct tape with little spray rubber to seal inside the box............it is running a 260 cfm booster fan for the intake little ducting inside so i can direct it as i want or clip to the back of the little fan that is moving and blowing in there to make sure the air gets evenly in tent


i have only been talling him a aggresive 400 cfm system for his tent becuase of the open reflector ...........i know what a 600 watt MH and HPS can do the cool tube now just keeps it so u can touch if i turn to max it it warms your hand in under 10 secs not to hot but not want to keep it there all day ................the speed controller will let him tune the cfms little allowing temp control..............the booster fan in is just to keep walls from caving in so the reflective walls work better on the lower set of leaves(hour glass shape is great for thicking the tops but less area into grow ......domed shape gives u the greatest area coverage with the most room for the plant to bush and add more flowers )
 

fir3dragon

Well-Known Member
yes but they make decent powered intakes lower then the cfm of the exhust .............they reduce the concave of the tent if the person is running a aggressive exhust .......u know 4 times refresh in 1 min over kill factor ..............if i did not have one that tent looks like a art project (4x4x6 concaved cube u see in public art)

and i just built a filter box out of a post office 2 day shipping box(large flat rate 12x12x5or7) a air filter lvl 9(12x12x1) (clears smoke) and duct tape with little spray rubber to seal inside the box............it is running a 260 cfm booster fan for the intake little ducting inside so i can direct it as i want or clip to the back of the little fan that is moving and blowing in there to make sure the air gets evenly in tent


i have only been talling him a aggresive 400 cfm system for his tent becuase of the open reflector ...........i know what a 600 watt MH and HPS can do the cool tube now just keeps it so u can touch if i turn to max it it warms your hand in under 10 secs not to hot but not want to keep it there all day ................the speed controller will let him tune the cfms little allowing temp control..............the booster fan in is just to keep walls from caving in so the reflective walls work better on the lower set of leaves(hour glass shape is great for thicking the tops but less area into grow ......domed shape gives u the greatest area coverage with the most room for the plant to bush and add more flowers )
I had a 600 in a 3x3 with a active air inline fan without a active intake and the walls were fine. I had the vent on the side open for passive intake.
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
i have a secert jardin rev 2.5 dr120 ...................running a 400 cfm when i was on passive only from the vent across the tent so the air flow was right .......sucked those walls in thought i was going to pop a zipper

and given it had 4 90 degree turns and no carbon filter so 300-320 cfm at vent intake in the tent due to the bends
 

fir3dragon

Well-Known Member
i have a secert jardin rev 2.5 dr120 ...................running a 400 cfm when i was on passive only from the vent across the tent so the air flow was right .......sucked those walls in thought i was going to pop a zipper

and given it had 4 90 degree turns and no carbon filter so 300-320 cfm at vent intake in the tent due to the bends
i had a filter and 4 90 degree bends on mine so that could be why. Not sure though.
 
I think I am going to get a S&P Silent td800 it runs at 500 odd CFM which I can turn down with a variac and is rated at only 19 decibels. Seems the quieter out the lot. 19 decibels would suit my bedroom just fine :3 I'm sorry but I'd rather pay the extra for the better sleep quality ;P Hehe
 

justugh

Well-Known Member
u can box it up and use eggshell crate foam (cheap bed toppers)

if that is all your worried u got no issuses.............rem the sound they make is called white noise .........it blocks out other sounds (u know those doctors offices with that wooshing sounds u hear in the office that is a white noise maker so ppl can not hear ppl talking ) after 2 or 3 nights your body adjusts and u no longer even hear it unless u are listen for it

just know ppl pay to get that sound in bedrooms and in offices

the honest truth is i can not sleep with out white noise drowning out the noise from outside (birds cars ppl running up and down the street on dirt bikes)
 
Hey guys so, there is an s&p td-silent which runs at 341 CFM on full power and there is also one which runs at 517 CFM on full power. They both have high and low speeds. Plus work with a variac.

So you advised me to get a fan that can pull around 400 CFM... which fan would you say I should get? The one which runs at 341 CFM on high (Would this be sufficient enough to cool down my tent if it heated up? I need 80 CFM MINIMUM remember and am not running a cool hood)

Or shall I get the one which runs at 517 CFM on high? I can't seem to get one in between. Though these smaller s&p's do work with variacs (Transformer type speed controller I think) like I say :) :eyesmoke:
 
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