drying help

stonemalone

Well-Known Member
ok so gonna be harvesting some plants in the next few weeks but will still have one with a few weeks left, just wondering if i put some string in a cardboard box and hung the weed on it and put it in the wardrobe im using with small holes along the side of the box would it dry properly or will it be too hot with the light being on, temps with the light on it the wardrobe are around 70 and with the light off around 60. not sure what the humidity levels are but the plants are growing fine so im assuming it should be ok
 

smivvie

Member
i dry mine this way, also have the inlet fan blowing into the box for airflow, works a treat. As said, keep the box closed and let in as little light as poss.
 

Illegal Smile

Well-Known Member
Drying buds need good air circulation around them but not a fan directly on them. I just hang mine on a makeshift "clothesline" across the room. They don't need darkness, just not direct light. Mine dry in a room with the windows covered.
 

jpill

Well-Known Member
i agree with illegal smile . nugs need "indirect" air circulation. Also temp. and humid. also play a roll in drying process
 

stonemalone

Well-Known Member
tmps are around 60f to 70f with lights off and on, hiumidity with lights on is around 40& but when off it does to around 70% how can i lower it at night?
 

Brick Top

New Member
Manicuring, Drying, And Curing Marijuana



Right after all the plants have been harvested, it is time to manicure them. Manicuring is simply cutting off the leaves that were growing from the buds. Cut off all the leaves surrounding the bud, so that just the bud remains.


Work over a glass table or some kind of smooth flat surface. This will make it easy to collect all the material that has been cut away from the buds. It is lower in THC than the buds, but rather than throw it away, you can use it to make hash oil.


When manicuring the buds, use a pair of scissors with small blades (to reach hard to get leaves) that is comfortable on your hands. If you have a small crop, you can handle the plants with bare hands.


The scissors will probably accumulate some hash on the cutting area. Although the amount is small, it is worth collecting. Let it air dry for a day or so before smoking (till you can pick it up without it sticking to your fingers).


With a large crop, wear powder free latex gloves. The latex gloves will collect trichome resin in a similar manner to the way live marijuana plants are rubbed to make hashish. The latex gloves have to be powder free or the powder will get mixed into the resin.


Do not touch anything other than the plants once you have put the gloves on. If you have to do something, remove the gloves you are wearing and put them in a plastic bag, prior to doing whatever it is that has to be done.


When finished, put on a pair of new gloves. Material on the first pair can be collected later. When you are finished manicuring all the plants, remove the gloves and place them in a plastic bag (to catch resin that drops off).
Put the plastic bag with the gloves in a freezer for 2-3 hours. The trichome resin can easily be peeled from the frozen latex gloves and consumed the same way you would use hashish.


If absolutely necessary, you can wait to manicure the buds. However, the job will take more time if you wait. Manicuring right after the plants are harvested will also speed the drying process.


Instead smoking marijuana directly after it is harvested and manicured, it is best to dry and cure it. Some new growers might be in such a rush to try the marijuana that they don't want to dry the crop, or they might be tempted to put buds in a microwave oven to dry them out.

Drying Marijuana After Harvest


You probably don't want to smoke marijuana that is harsh and bad tasting. If you do not take time to dry the bud, you will not get the best possible smell and taste your crop is capable of producing.


Proper drying and curing will also ensure maximum potency of the marijuana you have grown. Marijuana is not potent just after harvest. Some of the THC is in a non-psychoactive acidic form. Drying marijuana the right way will convert the non-psychoactive acidic compounds into psychoactive THC.


The area where the drying is done should be dark. Light and high temperatures (higher than about 80 degrees) will cause THC to break down into less desirable chemicals, this will lower the potency of the finished product.


A good way to dry the crop is to hang the buds upside-down by the stem, from some string or wire. The drying marijuana must have some circulation blowing over it at all times. A gentle breeze that circulates air over all the plants is necessary.


A fan or two will circulate air within the drying room. Fans will aid in drying the plants evenly, and reducing the chances of mold. If mold starts and is allowed to grow, it might ruin all of your crop. Mold looks like white fuzz and has an odor that is unpleasant.


You will have to keep the temperature and humidity within a certain range for optimal results. Conditions should remain constantly somewhere within the following ranges, temperature should be between 65-75 degrees F, relative humidity should be between 45%-55%.


At temperatures lower than 65 degrees, drying time will be lengthened. At temperatures higher than 75 degrees, the heat will cause the outer portion of the bud to dry quicker than the inner part, and the taste will suffer.


At humidity levels lower than 45%, the marijuana will dry too fast and the taste will suffer. At humidity levels higher than 55%, the marijuana will take a long time to dry, and it will be prone to mold.


Keep a hygrometer and a thermometer in the drying area, close to the plants. A hygrometer will allow you to keep an eye on the relative humidity level in the room and a thermometer will display the temperature. Some hygrometers have built in thermometers so you can measure the temperature and humidity together.


Depending on the time of year and your location, a heater or an air conditioner may be necessary to adjust the temperature. To control humidity, a dehumidifier can lower humidity and a humidifier can be used to raise humidity. There are warm mist humidifiers and cool mist humidifiers.


A warm mist humidifier will raise the temperature while a cool mist humidifier will not affect the temperature. There are also humidifiers that allow you to switch between warm or cool mist. If you are going to purchase a humidifier for this purpose, take your climate into consideration and buy an appropriate humidifier.

Warm mist models will actually heat the water and release warm humidity. Cool mist water isn't cooled, it just means that water is not heated. In most cases a cool mist will work best. To be safe you can get a humidifier that lets you switch between warm and cool mist.

Curing Marijuana


It will take at least a week or two to dry the crop with temperatures between 65-75 degrees F and relative humidity between 45%-55%.


You will know when the marijuana is dry if the stems of larger snap or break, rather than fold, and the stems of smaller buds fold but do not break when they are bent. Try smoking a small bud (1/2 gram or less) in a joint to be sure it is dry enough.


At this time, small buds will be dry enough to smoke. But larger buds should be cured (slow dried) to ensure that the marijuana is as potent and tasty as possible. If necessary, you can set aside buds that are less than 1/2 gram for smoking, while larger buds cure.


The cure should last no less than a week or two, but longer is better, anywhere from two months to a year. The aim of what you are doing is evenly finishing the slow dry process, so that mold will not grow when the buds are stored long term. Also, by the end of the cure, any remaining inactive THC will be converted to active THC.


To cure the crop, you will need one or more containers made out of glass or plastic. Some people say the plastic containers the have can impart a taste to the marijuana. Personally, plastic containers that some types of roll your own tobacco are sold in, have no negative effect on the taste.


Prior to putting your crop into any containers, you should wash them and after drying, smell them and make sure there is no chance of odors being absorbed by the drying marijuana and ruining the taste.


If you notice any smell you can put baking soda (2 ounces or more by weight) into the container and put the top on for a few months. Change the baking soda every 1-2 months until the smell is absorbed.


Containers that have a rubber seal work best, but any type of container with a tight fitting lid will do. One quart canning jars do a very good job if you are curing a few ounces. They have a rubber seal and hold somewhere near 1-2 ounces of marijuana per one quart jar.


When curing quantities in excess of a few ounces, larger plastic storage boxes work well. They are not air tight, but will do the job when smaller air tight containers are not practical.


When the storage container is ready, gently place your marijuana in the containers (cut buds to size if the are too big to fit in the container) and put the top on. Store the containers in a dark area where the temperature is between 50-65 degrees and the humidity is between 40%-60%.


You will have to open the containers for a few minutes to allow moisture to escape by fanning with your hand. If any moisture builds up on the inside of the cap on your container, wipe it off. Do this preferably 2-6 times daily, at regular 4-12 hour intervals.


You should also re-arrange the buds by giving them a quarter-turn once a day. This will ensure that different parts of the buds are exposed to the air in the container. Keep up this routine for 7-10 days. When properly dried, marijuana will burn evenly when smoked in a joint (if stems are removed).


The taste will be as good as it can be, and the THC will have reached a point where it is ready to be ingested or stored. You can keep any marijuana that will be consumed within a few months (1 year maximum) in the same containers used for curing, without having to keep opening them to release moisture.


If the marijuana is to be stored for more than a few months, you can use a vacuum sealer (designed for storing food) to seal the marijuana in an airtight environment. If stored in a dark area that is between 40-55 degrees F, the marijuana in vacuum sealed plastic will remain potent for up to 5 years.


Dry marijuana can be stored in a frost-free freezer, but some of the THC on the outer part of the buds may be damaged when frozen. A refrigerator is in the right temperature range but they tend to be humid (unless you can control the humidity).


If stored in an area of high humidity for months or years, even vacuum sealed marijuana can eventually become as humid as the surrounding air. This will necessitate drying it again before smoking. But, unless mold develops, humidity itself will not degrade the THC or make the marijuana any less potent.


Light will degrade some of the THC, so dark containers can be used for storage. If you place the marijuana in a see through container, it will have to be located in a dark area that is not exposed to light or high temperatures.


Always make sure to properly dry your marijuana prior to storage, if you grow your own or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that to preserve marijuana potency at a maximum level, keep any exposure to air, heat, and light at a minimum.


Additional:

A little tip is when you trim your plants keep a number of large fan leaves and put them in a Zip-Loc bag or a jar and keep then in your refrigerator while your buds are drying. If you over dry your buds you can then put a leaf or two in each curing jar and it will put moisture back into the buds.

It's better than using fruit peels and bread and food items that are more likely to mold.

If you can't, or don't, keep any fan leaves, if you over dry you can take a new, or totally clean, sponge and cut small pieces from it, moisten them and put one in each curing jar.
 

stonemalone

Well-Known Member
dont have money to spend on humidifiers or anything like that at the moment, would having a small fan on at night lower the humidity?? dont want the temps any lower at night
 

Brick Top

New Member
dont have money to spend on humidifiers or anything like that at the moment, would having a small fan on at night lower the humidity?? dont want the temps any lower at night

So, do you need to lower the level of humidity or raise it or just trying to find some way to keep it fairly even night and day?

If you need to lower the level of humidity there are products like Damp-Away, often sold at boat supply stores but it and others like it can be found in various other types of stores. To try to describe it, it looks like a large margarine tub and in the top half or so there is a basket with a material that draws moisture and the moisture taken in then drips into the lower portion of the container and can be poured off. Boat supply stores sell them for people to use in covered boats so they do not have mold/mildew problems. They are also sold to be used in closets and other areas to keep levels of humidity down.

If you need to raise the level of humidity, since you will, or assuming that you will, be hanging branches of your plants you will have something you can hang small moistened towels or washcloths on. Soak them, wring them out so they are not dripping wet and hang a few branches, then a towel or washcloth, then a few more branches etc. etc.

Another way to raise the level of humidity, but is a bit more of a pain, is take a one-gallon bucket or a half-gallon bucket and fill it with water. Then use a small clamp on work light with about a 60-watt light bulb and have it as close to the surface of the water as you can. Then take a larger bucket, like a five gallon bucket, and put it over the smaller one and use something like small pieces of 2x4 or a couple bricks or a few books, virtually anything, and have the larger bucket rest on them rather than go all the way to the floor.

It will minimize the amount of light, which you want as little of as possible while drying, by almost totally covering the light, but the light bulb will put off enough heat to slowly evaporate the water and the humidity will first build up in the larger bucket but then come out between the raised edge of the larger bucket and the floor.

The problem with any of those is regulating, keeping the level of humidity in a the proper range, but one will lower it and the other will raise it.
 

stonemalone

Well-Known Member
i need to lower the humidity at night, its slightly colder but the rh goes up to 75%, gonna be drying in the same wardrobe in a box so need to lower it to around 60% during the night, daytime rh with the light on is between 40% and 50% so its fine when lights are on
 
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