Dutch master zone replacement

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
HTH pool shock. 0.15 g per 10 gal RO gives 1ppm chlorine. i was using at 0.30 g since I do hempy buckets and res temps get fairly high.
aha, I use pool shock to make chlorine to kill the algae that builds up after heavy rains on my long backyard walkway

do you think bennies replace the need for products like zone? In health, one should not take antibiotics, which wipe out all bacteria when they have a pathogenic bacteria imbalance, they need PRObiotics, which re-balances the system in a natural way
 

FennarioMike

Well-Known Member
My last veg run I did 4, 5 gal DWC buckets with Hydroguard and 4 with UC Roots. On all of them there was no form of chilling with rez temps consistently in the low 80's. To further push it, I didn't change the rez at all - just topped with fresh nutes/RO as needed.

All 8 grew fine - no issues at all. All of them had great roots. 6 of them went down to the flower room 2 weeks ago and the other 2 are still in my veg tent. I have changed the rez's at this point...
 

FennarioMike

Well-Known Member
In my flower room system, an Under Current, I go sterile for now. I may switch - still undecided...

As far as cost - Hydroguard wins big against UC Roots
 

Buoy13

New Member
I prefer 100% organic for long season grows under the sun. Compost teas composed of seranade, actinovate, insect frass, SNS209, for fungals and insect management. In a indoor closed system composed of Air conditioners, dehumidifiers , and scrubbers i prefer 100% sterile. Have had lesser results with growing organically inside. Been alot of devolpments over the years in indoor organic growing. Alot to explore. Million ways to do things! As for now in a sterile enviroment i believe Zone is better than Clear-Rez for pythium. When i need to do a room overhaul will be looking at all these posts for experiances with more modern organic indoor gardening.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
Have you seen the price of Zone, which according to them, needs to be replaced every coupe days, n doubt due to evap
If it contains chloramine, evap shouldn't be a problem. 10 ml for 5 gallons is not expensive, compared to a product like Hygrozyme that's 10-15 ml per gallon. That's what most of the hydro stores around me try to sell you.
 

FennarioMike

Well-Known Member
If it contains chloramine, evap shouldn't be a problem. 10 ml for 5 gallons is not expensive, compared to a product like Hygrozyme that's 10-15 ml per gallon. That's what most of the hydro stores around me try to sell you.
It's hypochlorous acid, not chloramine. And it needs to be replaced because it works by binding onto the things that it's killing. So, it gets used up and needs to be replaced.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
i think you either pick bennies or sterile. i choose sterile: kill everything. either way works though. just personal preference
As I understand it, the bennies gather on the roots (and elsewhere) where they assist with nutrient uptake
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
As I understand it, the bennies gather on the roots (and elsewhere) where they assist with nutrient uptake
it's a battle of good vs bad bacteria. adding hydroguard is the good bacteria. but the main ingredient is a bacteria found in soil. so why try to copy what you do in soil when you are doing hydro is my argument for running sterile.
 

boilingoil

Well-Known Member
It's hypochlorous acid, not chloramine. And it needs to be replaced because it works by binding onto the things that it's killing. So, it gets used up and needs to be replaced.
Since the switch they have me all screwed up. I used to use the Gold Range Zone and from my understanding it was triple filtered Chloramines that was the main ingredient along with copper sulfate. Now that I look at the new bottles it says not to be used with organics.
 

rkymtnman

Well-Known Member
Since the switch they have me all screwed up. I used to use the Gold Range Zone and from my understanding it was triple filtered Chloramines that was the main ingredient along with copper sulfate. Now that I look at the new bottles it says not to be used with organics.
i think Mike is talking about UC roots, not Zone.

i just checked out the msds for Zone: main ingredient is a proprietary chloramide derivative.
 

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
it's a battle of good vs bad bacteria. adding hydroguard is the good bacteria. but the main ingredient is a bacteria found in soil. so why try to copy what you do in soil when you are doing hydro is my argument for running sterile.
According to my understanding, having watched quite a few NPK Industries tutorials, most of their RAW products work with hydro
 

Wastei

Well-Known Member
i used it every res change. would work for at least a week to 2 weeks and then dump res and start again. where does it say to reapply?
zone is just chlorine. same as HTH
Evaporation rate of chlorine is about 110 hours in open still water. It will drop drastically in aerated moving water. I add e3d and check my residual weekly. You may want to reapply more often if you're treating more plants.

If you want to use Dutch Master zone for treatment I would rather buy copper sulphate from anywhere.
 
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