dutch masters nutes and h202

Im using a flood and drain set up with a 80 liter reservoir and 2 3X3 trays. I am using the full gold line of dutch master nutes including the ZONE root conditioner. My last grow i used canna nutes with h202 and really liked how it kept my water clean and odor free, kept the trays clean, and killed any bugs that made there way in.

The Dutch master website is very clear on not using h202 because it degrades the nutes. They said if it has to be done to add the h202 and let it sit 24hrs before adding water.

I was thinking they just want you to use the root conditioner instead which is working fine but doesnt have the extra benefits of h202 like supplemented oxygen, pesticide, and disinfectant.

I dont have time to wait 24hrs to let the h202 sit my girls need water everyday. SO should i add the h202 when mixing the nutes or just use the root conditioner instead. I would love to hear from people who have used dutch master nutes. THANKS!!!

frenetic420 said:

Im using a flood and drain set up with a 80 liter reservoir and 2 3X3 trays. I am using the full gold line of dutch master nutes including the ZONE root conditioner. My last grow i used canna nutes with h202 and really liked how it kept my water clean and odor free, kept the trays clean, and killed any bugs that made there way in.

The Dutch master website is very clear on not using h202 because it degrades the nutes. They said if it has to be done to add the h202 and let it sit 24hrs before adding water.

I was thinking they just want you to use the root conditioner instead which is working fine but doesnt have the extra benefits of h202 like supplemented oxygen, pesticide, and disinfectant.

I dont have time to wait 24hrs to let the h202 sit my girls need water everyday. SO should i add the h202 when mixing the nutes or just use the root conditioner instead. I would love to hear from people who have used dutch master nutes. THANKS!!!

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I've personally had great success with 35% hydrogen peroxide, but it took a long time to dial it in before reaping the benefits. It's extremely volatile stuff as i'm sure you're aware. I use it at a rate of 2 ml's per gallon, and I add it to the water and let it sit for 30 minutes before adding nutes, ph'ing and pouring it into my rootzone. I do this every weekly res change in my DWC setup. I've never used Dutch Master Zone, but I don't have any reason to try it. I don't see a single thing zone can do that h2o2 can't do for cheaper. The only reason I can see going to zone would be because its a safer product to use for a novice grower, which is true, but once dialed in h2o2 will pay you back over and over.

I want to also add that the only thing that i've ever seen encourage root growth in the late stages of flower was h2o2. I ditched organics one crop right near the end of the grow due to the gross mess it was making, and h2o2 not only cleaned my res right up, but it also brought new white roots down into the tub. That extra oxygen is priceless!! To answer your direct question, 24 hours is overkill, 30 minutes works just fine (for me). This is also what the h2o2 bottle says right on the side, so, yea The best advice anyone could give you is to simply try both if you've already bought the zone, and see what works better!!

look at what are in the nutrients but my guess is its all about sales , although i know u cant add h2o2 with enzymes maybe they have some in the nutes?i cant get over how good enzymes are the eat away at the dead root material..if u have enuff bubbles i would forget the h2o2, although u could allways skip the 35% food grade h202 and try the 3% and see how it goes.