Dying Seedlings Again!!!!!!!!!!

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
ok, i'll get some folia feed.

Do you think its worth washing all of the old compost of the root system before repotting into the new compost?
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
Personally I would yes. The ph of your water isnt the problem, neither is the soil ph. If your not over or under watering then that leaves Chlorine from your tap water or high nutes of the soil. I would go with the latter in which case out with the old soil and in with the new.

Ive never used manure tho so if someone says different you may want to follow their advice.
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
And to answer your question " Why does it take a few days for symptoms to show".I think its because your seedling has its own energy store which lasts it a few days/week. When this runs out then it begins feeding from the soil/light. So say a week to use its own store of energy then a few days of feeding from the soil, then symptoms start appearing. Does this sound right?
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
that sounds right. Going to change soil and will keep updated. Thanks to all, any other ideas please keep posting.

Cheers DB
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
Hello guys.

Ok, job done replaced all old soil with new seed specific stuff, have been misting them often to replace any moisture lost by insufficient root system. So far plants look OK, no wilting and no further browning of the leaves so far!
 

Jaredbc

Active Member
Same problem with my new seedlings! aha! thanks everyone. I think it was the pure worm castings I tried to grow them in yes?
 

ANC

Well-Known Member
Be carefull not to overwater them after they sprout... if they don;t have to go out and look for water and nutes, they wont... leaving you with a weak root system...
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
Agreed on the watering, 'let the roots search!'.

Do you guys think if the plants do recover in their 3" post, when i transplant them in to the finishing pots i can use the manure based compost without doing more harm to the roots?

I'm not sure if thats what i'll do as not knowing the exact nutrient make up of the compost will make it hard to ensure optimun nutient amounts in the medium.

I hate having to by a cannabis specific compost as is usually twice to 3 times as costly!

Maybe just a plain multi purpose compost will do?
 

ThE sAtIvA hIgH

Well-Known Member
Agreed on the watering, 'let the roots search!'.

Do you guys think if the plants do recover in their 3" post, when i transplant them in to the finishing pots i can use the manure based compost without doing more harm to the roots?

I'm not sure if thats what i'll do as not knowing the exact nutrient make up of the compost will make it hard to ensure optimun nutient amounts in the medium.

I hate having to by a cannabis specific compost as is usually twice to 3 times as costly!

Maybe just a plain multi purpose compost will do?

if you really want to use the manure based compost id try mixing it with your new compost , maybe 1 part manure to 3 parts compost . id always recomend using perlite in your soil mix too.

ive never bought 'cannabis specific ' compost , i allways buy ordinary potting compost for about £3 a bag , i even use compost with the time released ferts in it , but thats not really reccomended for marijuana as it can be hard to know exactly how much your plant is feeding , and mj burns easily .
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
Right. They have perked up nicely and are now growing!!!

Not gonna use the manure based compost instead i'm going to plant straight into large grow bags i think that the growbags will be plenty big enough for what i'm growing (lowrider 2). if anyone disagrees would be interested to hear why.

Will post some pics of the seedlings later.

DB
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
Right. They have perked up nicely and are now growing!!!

Not gonna use the manure based compost instead i'm going to plant straight into large grow bags i think that the growbags will be plenty big enough for what i'm growing (lowrider 2). if anyone disagrees would be interested to hear why.

Will post some pics of the seedlings later.

DB
Good choice with the soil mate. Its much better to have a light nute base and add nutes than to have a heavy nute base and start off badly.

Also now you mention your growing LR2's, they really don't like heavy feeding to start with.

For example, if I start mine in Bio bizz All Mix, they struggle with the amount of nutes in the soil for the first 2 weeks and they stunt, I have made this mistake twice :oops: .

They do fine after a few weeks but stunt so that they only grow about 12inches and yeild about 30grams per plant under 600hps in 2 gallon pots.

When I'm paying attention! And I start them in Light mix, they easily hit 18 inches and yeild over an once a plant easily.

As for the grow bags, with Lr2's the pot size makes a big difference. I go with 2 Gallon pots and get over an once per plant. I have seen Lr2's yeild much more in bigger pots so it's all down to what yeild you want to acheive really.
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
Oh and I'm glad to hear they are recovering. I haven't seen many Lr growers her, it's good to know I'm not alone :wink:
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
Cheers for the advice. Very good news, they have made a 100% recovery, looking fine now although being LR2s i'm sure the end crop will have suffered. But i know for the future.

As for the grow bags, they measure 3' x 1' so i'm thinking with 3 in each there will be plenty of root space, and next time if it works i'll cut the bags in half and stand them on end effectively making 2 per bag.

Goig to put them in the bags today so will keep you in touch. Interesting you say about LR not liking a heavey nutrient base when young. I invested in a seedling specific compost and they seemed to love that proving your point.;

Any way really wanted to say how well they have recoverd. Thanks again to all who contributed their knowledge.

Lesson learnt.


DB
 

donbronzi

Well-Known Member
Oh and I'm glad to hear they are recovering. I haven't seen many Lr growers her, it's good to know I'm not alone :wink:

That is ggood to know. You sound like you have a similar set p to myself, i'm using a 600w sodium.

What is your average yeild per plant?
Any tips on increasing the yeild?

Cheers mate

DB
 

Jester88

Well-Known Member
check the soil ph
check exactly what is in the mix to make sure your combination isnt lacking or have too mush of one chemical or compound ya know this can also result in abnormalities or death its not allways the ph it could be an over/underload of something in your mix check it

sorry if this is just a waster of your time
check this out tho a few people have found it helpful its from the helpdesk i think i cant remember where i found it on this site
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
What is your average yeild per plant?

Cheers mate

DB
I'm just about where I want to be really, which is, 8 plants in 2 gallon pots under a 600w hps.

I start them off in a light mix soil (Bio Bizz), and they seem happy with this until about 3-4 weeks. At this point they sometimes need a little nitrogen, but not much, Just enough to keep them green.

Around week 5-6 I start to see rapid pistil growth and at this point I start to use Bloom nutes (Sparingly). I build up the bloom nutes over weeks 6-8 and at by week 8 Im at full strength and start adding a bloom booster also.

Weeks 8-9 are when I see the most bud swelling. At the end of the ninth week I flush with 6 gallons of very, very, mild bloom nutes per pot, and feed plain water for a week or week and a few days.

At week 11 ish I chop and dry. After drying I've usually got 30-40 grams per plant. It's usually about 280 grams per crop, which is just under 0.5 grams per watt. Not a bad weight IMO, for soil grown auto's/No Co2 added.
 

TRICKKY

Well-Known Member
Any tips on increasing the yeild?

DB
Yes, most importantly is no big mistakes. As they have only 11 weeks of life, any time wasted rectifying mistakes, is time and yeild lost.

Light - As much as possible from the word go. I have started Lr2's on flouros for the first 2 weeks, and compared with seeds from the same batch, started under hps, they don't do as well. As long as you keep the temps under control, it's much better to get them straight under a hps/mh.

Nutrients - Go easy for the first 3-4 weeks. They do great with a light grow feeding. I have found that trying to increase growth by increasing grow nutes, in the first 3 weeks, is very likely to stunt Lr2's.

Root zone - The bigger the space available (within reason) for root growth, the better the yeild. If I had room for 3 gallon pots, (I use 2 Gal's), I would use them in an instant, and expect to gain about a 3rd more weight. I wouldn't really go over 4 Gallon pots indoors tho, I don't think they would fill the pots in time.

Root stimulators - If used lightly, they respond very well to these. It's all about filling the pot with roots asap really, I find that once they start flowering proper, the root growth slows greatly. So getting the pot full of roots by week 5 is essential.

Temp - Cold temps, especially night time temps, seem to delay flowering but not the life cycle. Thus the plant will not yeild as much. I keep my temps @75F day and 65F night.

Time - I think it still says 9 weeks from seed on the packet? Go for 11. Ive never grown an Lr2 to completion, in soil in 9 weeks :-?

And thats about it really. If there is anything specific you want to know gimme a shout.
 
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