Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

indyboarder57 said:

So NOW to the issue of DYNA GRO and IT BEING SYNTHETIC and HOW THIS RELATIONSHIP WORKS WITH MYCORRHIZAE.

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Mineral-derived nutrients are already in a form which is ready for uptake by the plant, the mycorrhizae in my promix isn't needed. If you want to use molasses, that's on you, but don't blame the nutes for your fungus gnat problems.

Well I keep stuff sterile in the tent. Never had any infestations, knock on wood. I will try and post some grape god pics from using dyna gro in about a week. The stuff looks like it came out of Scarface's nose .

And plus if my pro mix bx already comes with mycorrhizae in it, why not use the benefits of microbacteria.

Dyna grow is the bomb yo, switched from advanced to dyna, couldnt be happier

Quick question on Dyna-Gro used with ro water in hydro; would a cal-mag supp be necessary? Seems to be lowish on Ca?

I use it even with my tap water. If I don't I get signs of cal/mag issues. Only need like 1ml per gallon though.

YouLookAdopted said:

Quick question on Dyna-Gro used with ro water in hydro; would a cal-mag supp be necessary? Seems to be lowish on Ca?

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How much calcium should it have?

I am still very un-clear what magpro really is

From my understanding, it is a micronutrient /trace element supplement. Basically magnesium, calcium, iron etc. So basically instead of buying a whole bunch of different bottles, you b uy one.

I've grown in both soil & hydro and am currently using Dyna-Gro. I like the fact I hardly have to adjust the pH levels, maybe 1-2x/week. It goes a long way per gallon too.

Hydro actually has been more hands off for me than soil (with hand-watering trips to the garden). The pumps, floats, media, nutes, etc... do most all the work. IDK why people think hydro is a hassle, complicated, time consuming or expensive. It's certainly not unless you make it that way. Even have reusing hydroton down pat, no need to buy tons of more soil or peat mixes or hauling that around each grow. Hydro = simple = KISS. PLUS I love the results!

Hydro is so much easier imo. Way less mess too.

Once you get setup and dialed in its easy... takes a couple grows to get there though.

I wish I could switch to hydro, however my living situation does not allow it. Since the house I am living in is pretty old, the circuits are old school, and with all my grow gear inside (400 w HPS, 2-t5 @ a total of 56 wats, a 6 in exhaust fan and two occilating fans, I am maxed out). Anywhoo, for you guys who do use hydro or soilless mixes, with using DG products, have u noticed an improvement in growth/ yield when following a ppm meter throughout grow?

So far I have just been using the DG chart, I know alot of people say it is super hot, but I have yet to burn my plants or have any deficiencies using DG stuff. So thus, I am wondering if it would help my yield numbers if I did start monitoring PPM, as a way to make sure i am not over ferting. I use pro mix bx, with dolomite. Since dolomite is a pH buffer, I have yet (5 years growing) to check for any sort pH run off, or nute solution pH. Would love to hear some insightful info on how ppm's help.

Since I always here K.I.S.S., I just am wondering if shelling out 90 for a blue lab ppm pen is worth it. Aloha DG growers.

PS- I guess since we are talking about ppms, would investing in a Ph meter for a soilless grow be worth it or meh?

I have had my blue lab truncheon for like 10 years now. I normally just do ml/gallon, but do check what it is out of curiosity every so often.

I don't do soil, but if I could only have one or the other I would go with a PH pen over a PPM pen. You can kind of gauge if you are feeding too many nutes or not enough... it's a lot harder to guesstimate your ph. It would be nice to check your ph to make sure it is in a good range for nute uptake, but if you don't have any deficiencies or burning you're probably fine to just continue doing what you do.

I'll have to post some pics soon before i harvest. This is my 1st grow using only DG recommended by a buddy of mine and I am very pleased with the way things are going. Grow,Bloom, and protekt only. There was a couple other things I was going to use, but after reading some threads on here I just kept it simple and im glad I did. These plants are just full of triches!

Hey DG fans. So I am back now with a pH meter and tds pen. HOORAY! Since I am using Dg with pro mix bx, does anyone know a good or recommend pH for promix water application ? Thanks for the help, so much shit on the web and I am tired of reading both spectrums. Btw my tap water, which I use for mixing ferts is a pH of 7.3 and 45 ppm.

indyboarder57 said:

Hey DG fans. So I am back now with a pH meter and tds pen. HOORAY! Since I am using Dg with pro mix bx, does anyone know a good or recommend pH for promix water application ? Thanks for the help, so much shit on the web and I am tired of reading both spectrums. Btw my tap water, which I use for mixing ferts is a pH of 7.3 and 45 ppm.

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god damn thats some nice tap water, mines like 250ppm, 7ph on the nose. I live in a poor area so they prolly load this region with flouride

indyboarder57 said:

Hey DG fans. So I am back now with a pH meter and tds pen. HOORAY! Since I am using Dg with pro mix bx, does anyone know a good or recommend pH for promix water application ? Thanks for the help, so much shit on the web and I am tired of reading both spectrums. Btw my tap water, which I use for mixing ferts is a pH of 7.3 and 45 ppm.

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Huh? Sounds like rainwater to me.

It's a fresh water/glacier aquaifer. But pro mix ph recommendations?