Dynagro is under-rated as fuck

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homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
thecoolman said:
I agree about the micro nutrient level however I believe the macro nutrient levels ie calcium and magnesium are way to low to be optimum particularly for hydroponics. Commercial hydroponic
farmers always run much higher cal and mag. A 4.5 to 1 nitrogen to calcium ratio is not
good in my opinion.
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Based on the data that I have, the reason I believe that I've only had good results, not great results, using foliage pro in hydro for flowering is not because of the cal and mg content (or the N to Ca ratio), but because of the NPK ratio of fp. You can run elevated levels of calcium and magnesium in your reservoirs if you want but I know for a fact that a lot of that is going into the sewer at your res change. Like I said before, just because it's in your res doesn't mean your plants are using it.

Now if you're saying there is proportionately too much N in foliage pro as compared to P and K, then I might agree with you there.
 
J

joe macclennan

Well-Known Member
homebrewer said:
Now if you're saying there is proportionately too much N in foliage pro as compared to P and K, then I might agree with you there.
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I think this is so.^^

I've seen more ducksfooting, and odd numbered leaf formations when running fp. Late in veg it seems to do better, or for mothers but for the first 2-3 weeks in veg. fp seems to hot, even when mixed @ around .8 ec. I have found mixing around 10% fp 90% gro to work really well in hydroton.

currently running 70/30 gro/bloom for first month of flower and around the exact opposite for last month. Seems to work pretty well.

edit: i'm also mixing a little more well water in now. Around 30% this gets my start ec to around .1 or so. I always used straight well water in the past so I am experimenting to see just how much Ro water is really needed for me.

I have found that having the extra dissolved solids in there really stabilizes my ph. I have to add around twice as much ph down upon mixing a fresh rez compared to straight purified water but during the life of the rez it stays rock solid for the most part. This is not the case when @ 100% purified water.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
joe macclennan said:
I think this is so.^^

I've seen more ducksfooting, and odd numbered leaf formations when running fp. Late in veg it seems to do better, or for mothers but for the first 2-3 weeks in veg. fp seems to hot, even when mixed @ around .8 ec. I have found mixing around 10% fp 90% gro to work really well in hydroton.

currently running 70/30 gro/bloom for first month of flower and around the exact opposite for last month. Seems to work pretty well.

edit: i'm also mixing a little more well water in now. Around 30% this gets my start ec to around .1 or so. I always used straight well water in the past so I am experimenting to see just how much Ro water is really needed for me.

I have found that having the extra dissolved solids in there really stabilizes my ph. I have to add around twice as much ph down upon mixing a fresh rez compared to straight purified water but during the life of the rez it stays rock solid for the most part. This is not the case when @ 100% purified water.
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.8EC is a little too hot, IMO, for any plant food for early on in veg. Try cutting it back to 0.6EC as I always get great leaf and branch growth with FP in veg. It grows plants with a more desirable structure than just 'grow' IME.
 
thecoolman

thecoolman

New Member
homebrewer said:
Based on the data that I have, the reason I believe that I've only had good results, not great results, using foliage pro in hydro for flowering is not because of the cal and mg content (or the N to Ca ratio), but because of the NPK ratio of fp. You can run elevated levels of calcium and magnesium in your reservoirs if you want but I know for a fact that a lot of that is going into the sewer at your res change. Like I said before, just because it's in your res doesn't mean your plants are using it.

Now if you're saying there is proportionately too much N in foliage pro as compared to P and K, then I might agree with you there.
Click to expand...
Interesting most current theories recommend closer to a .8 -1 part calcium to one part nitrogen.Which would require corresponding higher magnesium. Of course
the FP ratio may be off set somewhat since FP is getting 1/3 of its N
from ammoniacal nitrogen which may not be usable.
It still seems like a unusually low amount of calium and magesium.

This i suppose may be offset if you run high temperatures. . I would be highly surprised if
commercial hydro formulas jacks, plantex, verticrop, cropking etc used so much if it wasn't beneficial.But hell what ever works.
 
homebrewer

homebrewer

Well-Known Member
thecoolman said:
Interesting most current theories recommend closer to a .8 -1 part calcium to one part nitrogen.Which would require corresponding higher magnesium. Of course
the FP ratio may be off set somewhat since FP is getting 1/3 of its N
from ammoniacal nitrogen which may not be usable.
It still seems like a unusually low amount of calium and magesium.

This i suppose may be offset if you run high temperatures. . I would be highly surprised if
commercial hydro formulas jacks, plantex, verticrop, cropking etc used so much if it wasn't beneficial.But hell what ever works.
Click to expand...
All of my testing is done in E&F rockwool, I wonder if other types of hydro (DWC, NFT, or some kind of drip hydroton setup) would thrive on the same mineral ratios? There could be some slight differences and I wouldn't rule that out.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
number of plant/table, flooding frequency,tap water ppm,NPK ratio are important factor imo. i grew 128 plant / 4x8 ebb , no medium except hydroton in 3.5'' pot, flooding every 45 min with a 90 ppm tap water. calmag is a must as sulfur is. these three micro are supposed to be equal or higher than P. After few hours of search , I found few test that have been done and over 60 P, its no more benefial and can lead to micro deficiency. obv we're talking about hydro here, in soil it's different. that could explain your result HB, if u feed them with high P, their consumption of calcium,magnesium and sulfur will be lower
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
0.8 EC is fine in the first week if you feed with a balanced formula. foliage alone is not much balanced, too much N. if u feed at 0.8 with foliage pro alone , u r going to feed them way too much N
 
weedemart

weedemart

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Jbone77 said:
what 5 bottles are you using?
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foliage/bloom/protekt/calmag/sweet but im thinking about switching calmag for calimagic(1.2mg/3.2ca vs 1.5mg/5ca for calimagic) but calmag+ is more hydro friendly, it contains few micro and more N.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
thecoolman said:
I agree about the micro nutrient level however I believe the macro nutrient levels ie calcium and magnesium are way to low to be optimum particularly for hydroponics. Commercial hydroponic
farmers always run much higher cal and mag. A 4.5 to 1 nitrogen to calcium ratio is not
good in my opinion.
Click to expand...
same hereeeeeeeeee
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
dynagro is not perfect, but there's no perfect nutrients for cannabis... that say, dynagro is probly the most complete nutrients in 2 bottle or less and outperform most of best nutrients on market if u work ratio
 
skunkd0c

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
If i had a penny for every time i see dyna grow or fox farms mentioned on this forum
i would have a great deal of pennies
i hope some of you folk are getting paid for all this advertising
or at least riu has some sponsorship deal going on at the very least
why do all the leg work for nothing

peace
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
sharing good info mean rep for u? seriously who care its dynagro/AN/canna or HG wrote on your bottle? the only thing that matter is the guarantee.
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
i made nice harvest when i started with only 20-20-20 C-I-L bought from canadian tire.I understand you dont pay attention to your nutrients, most dont, but if you give them what they need in the optimal range, you will see great benefit in taste,yield.
 
J

Jbone77

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
foliage/bloom/protekt/calmag/sweet but im thinking about switching calmag for calimagic(1.2mg/3.2ca vs 1.5mg/5ca for calimagic) but calmag+ is more hydro friendly, it contains few micro and more N.
Click to expand...
so what is your typical hydro feed regimen with these?
 
skunkd0c

skunkd0c

Well-Known Member
weedemart said:
I understand you dont pay attention to your nutrients, most dont.
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I am attempting to read this statement above in a positive light but i am failing
who is not paying attention to their nutes
what attention do these nutes require

are you suggesting that by making a purchase of a particular product
the very act of this purchase has made you a more informed grower/person ?
more knowledgeable than others who do not purchase the same product
if so you sound like someone that has just bought an eyephone5 not some dynagrow
 
weedemart

weedemart

Well-Known Member
nice trolling but I'll answer. I don't choose my nutrients for the brands, picture or price, I choose the most cost-effective that have simillar requirement I need.First thing I check is the guarantee. I used optimum hydroponix, Advanced , canna and I was not doing bad but I didnt know at this time few things... obv you could buy any nutrients and do bad. the nutes are the tool, you are the grower. A good farmer with a good tool is more effective than another skilled producer with a poorer tool IMO. more knowledge of the need=more skilled and most skilled grower choose their nutes with attention. that say, if I could find better than dynagro at the same cost, I would buy it for sure.
 
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