Electrical Ques. If I can help someone I will...

ganjagoddess

Well-Known Member
No reference, I was saying its not advisable to try to shove 6awg or 8awg into a 20 amp breaker, actually there might be a code in there about that in specific but Im not gonna go find it.

Thats Why I didnt +rep you, then you said "hey how come I dont get Rep"

Now you have your answer.
 

spark1

Well-Known Member
I was actually referring to the people whom I have helped,when I mentioned getting rep.
"hmmmm and I never get rep" would be the actual quote.
Enjoy your thread.
 
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bryant228

Well-Known Member
Good thread and poster to keep on hand. Thank you very much for your offer to help with elec questions. Just imagine the fires that you have helped avoid.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
No reference, I was saying its not advisable to try to shove 6awg or 8awg into a 20 amp breaker, actually there might be a code in there about that in specific but Im not gonna go find it.

Thats Why I didnt +rep you, then you said "hey how come I dont get Rep"

Now you have your answer.
you probably won't find any code about over sizing the wire from a breaker. The job of the breaker is to protect the wiring and thats it. (Since the wiring it in general in side of walls or in conduit) The NEC code doesn't care at all what you plug into the outlet. It only goes to the outlet. After that its up to the idiot pluggin something into it.

The NEC code is up for change. If its passed, all new outlets are gonna be big bucks. ($6-10 compared to now at $1) So buy outlets now.
 

4maggio

Well-Known Member
hah... not sure about them, but I was joking about it. I try to keep jokes like that obvious so no one tries it. also been trying to help keep people safe, but try not to be pushy or step on toes.

how do you give rep anyway? I haven't seen a button for it.
Lorenzo I give you rep (ah!) for asking that question.
Who knew?! I smoke pot.. sometimes I overlook things! scales!? Who knew?

Thanks... now I have to go back and rep a buncha good people. Really!

But what is it? Rep? What does one gain....? Reputation.. I get that part.. but
is there a promotion..
whats the advantage of rep.. I guess, is what I'd like to know.

If I were to 'disaprove" does that take away rep?

Is there a "rep giving" thread? only half kidding.. Is there anything else I'm missing?
 
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lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
I wish people would stop giving me dumbass points. I don't know why they do that.. lol


you might have me there. I can't point you to a page describing this code. but it's still good practice to match up wire gage with breaker ratings. unless you're running the wire 100+ feet and need a thicker gage to have less of a voltage drop, it's not practical and more costly to use thicker wire.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
I wish people would stop giving me dumbass points. I don't know why they do that.. lol


you might have me there. I can't point you to a page describing this code. but it's still good practice to match up wire gage with breaker ratings. unless you're running the wire 100+ feet and need a thicker gage to have less of a voltage drop, it's not practical and more costly to use thicker wire.
We are back full circle. The heavy wire is already run. He just needs to downsize a bit to fit the items. Breaker sized to the smallest wire in the run.
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
We are back full circle. The heavy wire is already run. He just needs to downsize a bit to fit the items. Breaker sized to the smallest wire in the run.
I still think it's a better plan to use the existing sub panel for what it's meant for, and just add 2 20 amp breakers to branch off to his outlets, and spend the money on a little 12 gage. it's easier and safer to work with the right parts for the job. I enjoy rigging things as much as the next guy, but house wiring I do right. usually..

I do kinda have 2 100 amp sub panels going into the same 100 amp main breaker at the meter. I plan on upgrading it in a few years to 200 amp service with 2 100 amp mains. to do that, I have to replace the meter box and have everything inspected before it can be turned on. in the end, it will be done right.
 

jahtrip

Well-Known Member
Wats up kushmonster... i have a question for you thats causing me quite alot of problems..... and i really dont know why....
basically i entered my grow room last night and the lamp was still on when it was supposed to be off.... i tested the timer and it wasnt working... so i figured that was the problem and switched it .... unfortunatly my plants received 5 more hours of light than they were supposed to..... and it happened again tonight.... after i changed the timer..... i decided to test my old timer and the new one today.. and they both work with my iron but im worried about using them again in the grow room... maybe its not the timer thats causing a problem... but then wat could it be???? the fan and extractor are hooked up to different plugs but i think they
are on the same circuit and they are doing fine... it just seems so un logical to me that the timer just wont switch the lamp off... HELP!!!!!!! Pleaaase... and soooooon :)
peace
 

lorenzo08

Well-Known Member
Wats up kushmonster... i have a question for you thats causing me quite alot of problems..... and i really dont know why....
basically i entered my grow room last night and the lamp was still on when it was supposed to be off....

haven't experienced this myself but I've heard of it a few times on the forum. the contacts inside the timer fuse together (stick together). the HID lamp you're using draws a surge of power when first turned on. this slightly melts the contacts together. you can either try getting a heavier duty timer, or try a solid state timer. solid state timers use a type of transistor called a triac instead of contacts like a normal switch.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
I still think it's a better plan to use the existing sub panel for what it's meant for, and just add 2 20 amp breakers to branch off to his outlets, and spend the money on a little 12 gage. it's easier and safer to work with the right parts for the job. I enjoy rigging things as much as the next guy, but house wiring I do right. usually..

I do kinda have 2 100 amp sub panels going into the same 100 amp main breaker at the meter. I plan on upgrading it in a few years to 200 amp service with 2 100 amp mains. to do that, I have to replace the meter box and have everything inspected before it can be turned on. in the end, it will be done right.
Depends on how accessible the wiring is. No reason to rip up drywall if its buried.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
hi there. can you tell me the process in wiring 4 240 volt recepticles in series.
In series? WHY?
Is this a US 240 or Euro 230? (US 240 is 2 120 hots 180 out Euro is 230 and a neutral)

One break in a series and *all* are dead. I can see for a safety issue in some applications.
 

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
haven't experienced this myself but I've heard of it a few times on the forum. the contacts inside the timer fuse together (stick together). the HID lamp you're using draws a surge of power when first turned on. this slightly melts the contacts together. you can either try getting a heavier duty timer, or try a solid state timer. solid state timers use a type of transistor called a triac instead of contacts like a normal switch.
SSRs are a viable solution. Just pick carefully. There are many configurations. Other option is an industrial contactor (sometimes, an somewhat incorrectly, called a relay) It functions like a relay, but the contacts are made for more current and more ON/OFF cycles.

To jahtrip, how big a lamp and what type? HPS vs MH are a bit different on inrush currents.
 
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