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This was one issue I wasn't able to sort out satisfactorily, creating space between the canopy and the wall with a fan pushing air down helped but there was room for improvement.

I thought about bringing air in the top of the canopy but never did get around to doing it, I've seen other folks suggesting it but idk if anyone did?

I've not used a screen besides for support with LED but I'd expect that same problem, how do you get around the temp difference, or cool temps around the pots due to the inlet?

The temps of soil/medium being cooler than ambient room temps is ideal. For added airflow, plumbing the scrog frame with compressed air and dispersing it via holes drilled accordingly, is surprisingly effective.

Woodsmantoker~
 
I would suggest (2) 2x4 tents. Unless you have already purchased a light.
I got the Grand Master Level Tarantula Torch 320 which covers 2x4 as I have NFT GT424 system which basically covers this size of area but I wanted a bit space at the sides for 2ft tube heaters in the winter or even the carbon filter at the bottom of the tent
 
What's the best tent for a 4x4 scrog so that I can unzip the sides for easier access to prune rather than just the front access?
I went with the 5 x 5 Gorilla Grow tent because it opens on both sides for easier access. Note the screen in the tent, I added tree cross braces to keep the screen in place, would pull up during the grow.

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This is my irrigation system for the tent.
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This shows the system better.
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I went with the 5 x 5 Gorilla Grow tent because it opens on both sides for easier access. Note the screen in the tent, I added tree cross braces to keep the screen in place, would pull up during the grow.

View attachment 5459723
View attachment 5459724
This is my irrigation system for the tent.
View attachment 5459722
This shows the system better.
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Nice set up, I like sides come completely off the tent
 
Nice set up, I like sides come completely off the tent
My first tent was a gorilla, but for the price i could buy several tents.... My 2x2.5 was alot nearly 10 years ago.
It is nice and heavy duty, but like any other tent the poles rust the zippers do break. The access is great but how many people have a tent in the middle of a room rather than a corner....
 
What's the best tent for a 4x4 scrog so that I can unzip the sides for easier access to prune rather than just the front access?
Here's a thought.

Every tent I've ever had involves a zip that goes all the way around top and bottom (as well as zips on the doors) as in, thats how you assemble it, so since you're not going to be pruning all the time, you could unzip the whole thing, peel the tent fabric down, leaving the frame totally open.
 
Here's a thought.

Every tent I've ever had involves a zip that goes all the way around top and bottom (as well as zips on the doors) as in, thats how you assemble it, so since you're not going to be pruning all the time, you could unzip the whole thing, peel the tent fabric down, leaving the frame totally open.
Never realized this, the one I have is the old style from 20 years back with only the front doors having zips but pruning is getting back breaking as I get older so unzipping all sides would be great
 
A question to all ...

About 1 year ago, I posted using wood trim for frames for plant mobility which worked well - until they didn’t work well.

Wood trim in a warm humid environment meant warping, twisting and screws coming loose. I have bailed on the wood trim after a few grows. Pipe cleaners have let me spread laterally in the interim ... but they get in the way when watering or lollipopping. So I do want to get back to the nets ... this time using PVC.

I have the lengths of 3/4 pipe, elbows, pipe cutter and PVC glue - but was curious about the method to secure the twine. I used screws on the top on the wood but that doesn't look like it would work as well for the PVC. So I was going to use small cup hooks on the inside of the PVC.

Any recommendations as the the size of cup hook - or any other suggestions - to keep the twine taut in 3/4" PVC?
 
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