LakeShowGrow24
Member
what if the ballast is designed to run @ 240v and 60 hz, does that make use with a transformer possible?
Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
Mr.Freedom
Active Member
What type of lights are you using?
I think the electrician is going to wonder why you are wanting to run a 220 line to your bedroom. Not very common unless you have a washer or dryer in there. The term for that type of breaker box would be a sub-panel which is also not to common place in a bedroom. You can most likely pick up a residential wiring book at the local library or buy one from the local home center. Then decide if it's something you want to tackle. Bringing in outsiders is never good. So unless there is a big need for 220 it might be easier to do with 110
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
Accepted. VV
bricktown73
Well-Known Member
WOW!!! I can't believe this thread is still going!
Thanks to everyone who has answerd for mekiss-ass, I have had a ton of PM's to answer in regards to this thread.
Captn
Well-Known Member
A transformer affects voltage. Your problem isn't getting the correct voltage. The 120v circuit in your garage operates off of EITHER L1 or L2. The 240v ballast operate off of BOTH L1 and L2. You can check for another 120v ciricuit nearby that operates off the opposite leg. If yours is an attached garage, look for an outlet or light on the opposite side of the wall. If there is one, here is an easy way for a layman to check to see which circuits operate off which phase. (This is USA only, can't speak for overseas). Picture your electric panel with circuits numbered like this
1 2
3 4
5 6
7 8
1 and 2 would operate off L1, 3 and 4 operate off L2, 5 and 6 operate off L1, 7 and 8 operate off L2, and so on. So if your garage is circuit 1 and you get another 120v circuit that operates off circuit 3, then you could make the hot wire from each circuit one leg of a 240v outlet, and tie the neutrals together. As for using a phase rectifier to take L1 and make it into L1 and L2, it depends how competent you are with electricity. For an electrician it would make an interesting project.
Captn
Well-Known Member
I hope you don't mind me jumping in here, Brick, but this is one area of the forums where I can some advice. I just bought my equipment, and am building my first grow op this weekend. I've asked so many questions, some of which were probably really stupid, and everyone has been so helpful. Its nice to have an area where I can give back...makes me feel like I'm pulling my weight.
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
Do plugs like the one below only come in 20AMP/125Volt, or are do they also make them 20/250?
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MediMaryUser
Well-Known Member
Hey whats up,would it be ok for me to get a cheap window ac unit and not have it hooked up connected to the window or any venting source and just basically put it in the area im going to grow in and turn it on without having any problems with humity?would the window ac unit overheat?
all i can afford is a cheap 5000 btu window ac unit from wall mart like this one http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8811931
does anyone see any problems in doing this?
thanks
all i can afford is a cheap 5000 btu window ac unit from wall mart like this one http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=8811931
does anyone see any problems in doing this?
thanks
Captn
Well-Known Member
Ya you can get a plug for 20a @ 240v. Don't know if you can get it at HomeDepot, but any electrical supply house can hook you up.
Captn
Well-Known Member
I got into a lot of portable generators a few years ago and I the what you want is an L14-20 after that there would be a P or R designation for plug or receptical.
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
The reason I ask is because I have an outlet like this already but am not sure if it's 125 or 250. I'm borrowing a voltmeter tomorrow from a buddy to test it but I just wanted to ask the question.
VictorVIcious
Well-Known Member
The rating for the receptacle is on the receptacle.
chunkymunkey33
Well-Known Member
Thanks guys.
LakeShowGrow24
Member
well, its a detached garage that has been converted to a living space and has its own two breaker panel inside (one breaker for inside and the other for outside floodlights). and while im not trying to say your wrong (obviously you know more about what were taking about than i do), ive had two other people say the transformer would work (one is an electrician). guess what im asking is, for what application would a voltage transformer work? (in case you cant tell, im pretty determined to NOT have to sell this ballast and buy another one) Thanks Cap...
Captn
Well-Known Member
A voltage transformer raises or lowers voltage. Your thermostat uses 18 or 24 VAC, so 120v is fed into a low voltage transformer, and 18v comes out. Utilities use high voltage transformer. Have you ever wondered how the utility can power you entire neighborhood off those skinny lines on the pole. A line can at 12000 volts can carry 100 times the amps as a line at 120v (in theory). So they run the amps down the line at very high voltage, then use a transformer to lower it to the 240v you can use at your home. Now in the US, when we speak of a 240v appliance, we generally mean one that is 2-pole and operates off 120v/120v. The only system in the US with one leg that is 240v is a high leg delta, which is a 3 phase system 240v/120v/120v. A transformer can raise 120v to 240v, but it can't make make it into 120v/120v. Now, if your ballast is a 1-pole appliance, then I've given you bad advice, and I'll feel stupid for making that assumption. But if its a 2-pole appliance, then a transformer won't help you, I'm sorry.
I'm new to the whole growing thing, so I don't know alot about ballasts, but I was under the impression that most of the growers buying 240v ballasts are using them in their homes, and homes don't have a 240v leg, they have two 120v legs.
Captn
Well-Known Member
But, dude, check and see if the panel is one leg or two. If its 2 then you have what you need right there in the garage. And single pole panels are not commonplace. Do you have a voltmeter? Open the panel and put one probe on each breaker, if you read 240v your all set. Again, this is assuming a 2-pole ballast.
Captn
Well-Known Member
Actually, there is another way, but I'm not sure and would like Brick and VV to comment b4 u try it. The circuit going to the garage, if its 1-pole, should have a hot, neutral, and ground. You could go back to the main panel, take the neutral off and put it and the hot on a 2-pole breaker. Then you would have 240v and the ground would become a bare neutral. tape that ground up all the way from where it leaves the cable jacket to where it connects to the neutral bar on both ends. So what do you guys think? Wouldn't that work? I mean, I know it wouldn't be legal, and wouldn't pass an inspection, but it should work ok.
Captn
Well-Known Member
I'm not an HVAC technician, but I know that the heat energy you're drawing out of the room has to go somewhere. Where it goes is into the coolant, which is run through a radiator to dissipate the heat outside. In a window unit, that radiator is in the back of the unit, which must be outside, or at least in another room.
Mr.Freedom
Active Member
Captn is right. A/C units do not really make or add cold air to a room they move heat out of it by absorbing it through then moving that heat to the exterior coil (radiator). It is possible but like cap said the back of the unit has to be isolated from the front. If you had the entire unit within the room you would have the same humidity but more heat because of the unit itself the heat it displaced is just released from the back. Once you install it with the front and back in different rooms the unit will actually act as a dehumidifier to an extent so it will help you control humidity a little better.
Some factors that will determine the extent of your problem
1.What temp you are getting up to ?
2. How heat tolerant the strain is?
3. If you are using co2 enrichment?
Typically plants in a co2 enriched room will tolerate more heat than ones that are not. You might also be able to solve by just putting a fan on the light if the hood will adapt might get you where you need to be and will use less watts. Depending on temp and size of the room a 5000 btu a/c might not be all that effective. a few more details would help.