Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

Hemp4Victory

Hemp4Victory

Well-Known Member
Captn said:
As long as the adapter puts out the correct voltage and the load is less than the nameplate rating, its fine. Don't use the 10w, use one of the others.
Click to expand...
So then it sounds like I want to use the one that puts out 17W and 120V. Is the excess power anything I need to be concerned with or am I able to hook up a much weaker pc fan as well as long as I stay within the 17W that adapter is capable of?
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
humble learner said:
I was going to get a MLC-4(4 light timer), do I replace that in place of the Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer, or get the Intermatice 40amp single pole single throw mechanical timer and add the MLC after?

Thanks in advance Captn.....
Click to expand...
Put it in place of the Intermatic, but don't run any outlets out of it, since the MLC-4 contains those. All of your duplex outlets will run off the suppanel, then plug a timer into one of those and the MLC-4 into that timer. Thats actually a neat little gadget...never seen one before, but I like it. Put a 30a/240v breaker in the subpanel, and run a piece of 10/3 romex to the MLC-4. BTW, the above list was originally posted for another user, and the items in parathesis are for him, not you.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
Ya, well under $200 if you don't get the Intermatic timer. Go to a supply house to get the 10/3 romex, cause Home Depot will make you buy 50' of it. I want to say something about my setup. For security reasons, I want all my grow equipment in the same room, so my ballasts will plug in there. I also paid out for Lumatek ballasts, which run cool compared to some other makes (and completely silent...I love my Lumatek ballasts). Ideally, though, the ballasts should be in a different room for temperature control. If that is what you're planning, keep that in mind when buying the 10/3.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
Hemp4Victory said:
So then it sounds like I want to use the one that puts out 17W and 120V. Is the excess power anything I need to be concerned with or am I able to hook up a much weaker pc fan as well as long as I stay within the 17W that adapter is capable of?
Click to expand...
If the adapter puts out 120 volts you can't use it with a pc fan. It has to put out the same voltage as the fan, which I believe you said was 12v. The wattage listed on the adapter is a maximum; you can't connect a device which uses more than 17 watts, but you can come in under that.
 
farmer frank

farmer frank

Active Member
bricktown save my house an crop pleeeez ,well i went down in my room today to turn on my 1000w light an the wires in the sun system hood melted smelled burnt so took apart an fixed so that ok but overall problem not fixed, so let me tell you what i have going on,built room in basement had pal wire it from wires that lead from breaker box ,think 20 amp , so now there is like 4 or 5 outlets ,think all to same breaker(i think )i have floor tower a/c ,tower fan ,co2 boost bucket, can fan an filter,humidifer,air pump for hydro, an 2 other water pumps for cloner, 160w 2' by 4' fls plus my 1000w evrything ist in puged to surge pro 1st then outlet,25%of that to dryer breaker to lessen load ,help plez ,ill b glad to give u more details if u anwer back i have to do lites on at 8am help if can u could save nice crop haha, thanks
 
H

humble learner

Well-Known Member
Captn said:
Put it in place of the Intermatic, but don't run any outlets out of it, since the MLC-4 contains those. All of your duplex outlets will run off the suppanel, then plug a timer into one of those and the MLC-4 into that timer. Thats actually a neat little gadget...never seen one before, but I like it. Put a 30a/240v breaker in the subpanel, and run a piece of 10/3 romex to the MLC-4. BTW, the above list was originally posted for another user, and the items in parathesis are for him, not you.
Click to expand...
The MLC-4 plugs into a regular 120v, so I can use that original set up with no modifications and then just plug the MLC-4 into one of the duplex outlets coming from the sub panel, or the timer?

I'm not sure I understand exactly what you just described to me. Thanks again I'll leave ya some good rep.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
humble learner said:
The MLC-4 plugs into a regular 120v, so I can use that original set up with no modifications and then just plug the MLC-4 into one of the duplex outlets coming from the sub panel, or the timer?

I'm not sure I understand exactly what you just described to me. Thanks again I'll leave ya some good rep.
Click to expand...
According to this https://www.westcoasthydro.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=549&category_id=145&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2&vmcchk=1&Itemid=2 you run #10/3 romex (thats 3 conductors plus ground) from a 30 amp 2-pole breaker in your subpanel into the MLC-4. The MLC-4 has outlets on it that you plug your lights into. The MLC-4 also has a cord with a standard 120 volt plug on it. You plug that into one of those timers that plugs into an outlet (you can get those at Home Depot, they are rated to 15 amps, I think). All that plug does is power the switching mechanism that turns the lights on and off. The MLC_4 doesn't have a built-in timer, its a switch that you plug into a timer. The power for the lights themselves comes from the 30 amp breaker. In other words the MLC-4 must be "hardwired" into your subpanel.

Now in my setup, 2 outlets ran off the timer (for my lights), and the other 3 ran directly of the subpanel (for my other equipment). You can see this if you follow the wires in the picture. In your case, the MLC-4 has the outlets for the lights built in, and the outlets for the other equipment will feed off breakers in the subpanel.

I only have 2 breakers, one 20a/120v for my lights, and one 20a/120v for my other equipment. You will need one 30a/240v for the MLC-4, probably two 20/120v for the pumps, fans, etc., and one for your a/c. You don't mention what kind of a/c, though. A window unit and most portables will plug into a standard 20/120v outlet. A central a/c will require a 240v breaker.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
farmer frank said:
bricktown save my house an crop pleeeez ,well i went down in my room today to turn on my 1000w light an the wires in the sun system hood melted smelled burnt so took apart an fixed so that ok but overall problem not fixed, so let me tell you what i have going on,built room in basement had pal wire it from wires that lead from breaker box ,think 20 amp , so now there is like 4 or 5 outlets ,think all to same breaker(i think )i have floor tower a/c ,tower fan ,co2 boost bucket, can fan an filter,humidifer,air pump for hydro, an 2 other water pumps for cloner, 160w 2' by 4' fls plus my 1000w evrything ist in puged to surge pro 1st then outlet,25%of that to dryer breaker to lessen load ,help plez ,ill b glad to give u more details if u anwer back i have to do lites on at 8am help if can u could save nice crop haha, thanks
Click to expand...
The breaker feeding your equipment isn't large enough. The light alone will use 9 amps, and the a/c will likely use more than that. upgrade that breaker to a 30amp and the wire connected to it to #10. IF YOU UPGRADE THE BREAKER, YOU MUST UPGRADE THE WIRE OR YOU WILL START A FIRE. Your other option, if money is short, is to get an extension cord, and run that a/c to another circuit. You might have to run the other equipment, fans, pumps, etc., to a third circuit, but maybe not. Good luck.
 
farmer frank

farmer frank

Active Member
i guess i already knew the answer but i was hopeing to get away with it an u confirmed it thank you for your anwsers captn to all who need , i was planning to do just what u said an get fixed soon as i can money no prob.,but im not very good at electrical myself plus mostly current scares me ive had a volt or two get me in pass hehe but not funny ,so i would rather get someone i know rather than pro. so that could take a little while longer . like to keep MY secert ,an my smoke haha again thanks for fast response i feel better , a little
 
D

DankDude24

Member
So I wrote you a lengthy email about my electrical work, but when I went to hit send the site told me I was not logged in. I logged in and it redirected me back to my inbox. Im not sure if it sent the email or not. In the email I said I would post a pic here for you, so here it is. If you didnt get the message let me know and i will send it again!
 

Attachments

C

caambulance

Member
I just got an north star lighting HID ballast that says 460watts. It also came with two 250w mercury bulbs.

My question is, what size hps bulb would work for this? I would like to get the 430w.

The light also says 277volts and 1.9amps.

Thanks for the help ahead of time.
 
axisofevil

axisofevil

Active Member
im sorry, i am an electrician, and single phase does not mean 2 hot leads... go to the begining of the circuit. look at the panel. the panel has three wires running into it, a neutral, and 2 hots. each one of those hots are a phase, carrying 120 volts each. combined, (two phase) and you are using 240 volts.

look at what 'phase' your circuit breaker is on, there is two phases in almost every single american home. by utilizing two phases, you have two hot leads, and both are carrying 120volts. so put two phases together, and it equals 240 volts.

wiring isnt as dangerous as some think, but when you dont know whats going on problems can arise....
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
axisofevil said:
im sorry, i am an electrician, and single phase does not mean 2 hot leads... go to the begining of the circuit. look at the panel. the panel has three wires running into it, a neutral, and 2 hots. each one of those hots are a phase, carrying 120 volts each. combined, (two phase) and you are using 240 volts.

look at what 'phase' your circuit breaker is on, there is two phases in almost every single american home. by utilizing two phases, you have two hot leads, and both are carrying 120volts. so put two phases together, and it equals 240 volts.

wiring isnt as dangerous as some think, but when you dont know whats going on problems can arise....
Click to expand...
What you are referring to is the power system most widely used in US residential electric service, and is technically called "3 wire single-phase distribution" and commonly referred to as "single phase".

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Split_phase

In common parlance, to avoid confusion with the various 3-phase systems, the 2 "hot" conductors are referred to as Leg 1 and Leg 2, or simply L1 and L2. This is as opposed to 3-phase systems which have A-phase, B-phase and C-phase.

My point with all this in my earlier post (if that is what you are referring to) was that there is no arrangement of transformers that will convert L1 into L1 and L2, as the poster had been told.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
caambulance said:
I just got an north star lighting HID ballast that says 460watts. It also came with two 250w mercury bulbs.

My question is, what size hps bulb would work for this? I would like to get the 430w.

The light also says 277volts and 1.9amps.

Thanks for the help ahead of time.
Click to expand...
I'm sorry, but I'm new to growing, and I'm not that familiar with HID lighting. Perhaps Brick can take this one. Or, even better, go post this in the Indoor Growing forum, there are a lot of lighting experts there.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
DankDude24 said:
So I wrote you a lengthy email about my electrical work, but when I went to hit send the site told me I was not logged in. I logged in and it redirected me back to my inbox. Im not sure if it sent the email or not. In the email I said I would post a pic here for you, so here it is. If you didnt get the message let me know and i will send it again!
Click to expand...
I don't know if you're talking to me, but I don't have any new PMs.
 
J

jessebeatty23

Member
hey there, on all of my lights and now my new 265 cfm fan when i touch a pointy corner particularly my light hood there is a minute shock. but only when touched with a sensitve body part (wrist, forehead) thin skin i guess? in the past i have used high wattage without a ground, wich is what i always thought was the culprit. i know very stupid but , since then ive been using the right 3 pronge grounded timers and it still happens? also could this be causing loss of power to my lights?
 
H

humble learner

Well-Known Member
Captn said:
According to this https://www.westcoasthydro.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=shop.flypage&product_id=549&category_id=145&manufacturer_id=0&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=2&vmcchk=1&Itemid=2 you run #10/3 romex (thats 3 conductors plus ground) from a 30 amp 2-pole breaker in your subpanel into the MLC-4. The MLC-4 has outlets on it that you plug your lights into. The MLC-4 also has a cord with a standard 120 volt plug on it. You plug that into one of those timers that plugs into an outlet (you can get those at Home Depot, they are rated to 15 amps, I think). All that plug does is power the switching mechanism that turns the lights on and off. The MLC_4 doesn't have a built-in timer, its a switch that you plug into a timer. The power for the lights themselves comes from the 30 amp breaker. In other words the MLC-4 must be "hardwired" into your subpanel.

Now in my setup, 2 outlets ran off the timer (for my lights), and the other 3 ran directly of the subpanel (for my other equipment). You can see this if you follow the wires in the picture. In your case, the MLC-4 has the outlets for the lights built in, and the outlets for the other equipment will feed off breakers in the subpanel.

I only have 2 breakers, one 20a/120v for my lights, and one 20a/120v for my other equipment. You will need one 30a/240v for the MLC-4, probably two 20/120v for the pumps, fans, etc., and one for your a/c. You don't mention what kind of a/c, though. A window unit and most portables will plug into a standard 20/120v outlet. A central a/c will require a 240v breaker.
Click to expand...


Ok I understand, the a/c is a small window unit, probably 9+ amps. Other then the lights and the A/C, all I have to run is an 8" inline fan, not sure about the amps on that one.

One more question, how do I run this as 220 instead of 110?

Thanks again Captn.
 
Captn

Captn

Well-Known Member
jessebeatty23 said:
hey there, on all of my lights and now my new 265 cfm fan when i touch a pointy corner particularly my light hood there is a minute shock. but only when touched with a sensitve body part (wrist, forehead) thin skin i guess? in the past i have used high wattage without a ground, wich is what i always thought was the culprit. i know very stupid but , since then ive been using the right 3 pronge grounded timers and it still happens? also could this be causing loss of power to my lights?
Click to expand...
If the shock is momentary, its static, if it persists, i.e., continues to shock you as long as you touch it, its AC. If AC then you've lost the ground, which probably means a loose ground connection between the receptacle and the main panel. Thoroughly check all of the ground connections back to the panel. It is possible that it is what is called a "grounding loop", which is beyond the scope of this thread. If all of the ground connections are clean and tight, you will need to call an electrician.
 
J

jessebeatty23

Member
thank man, this is the third apartment ive moved to, and it still happens. i wouldndt really call it a shock but its definetly not statick build. but at the same time three lights are doing it? 3rd apartmet? anyways thinks for the info ill try to figure it out. i just hope im not somehow losing power coming from my light.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top