Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

S

serialkiller

Active Member
rome35 said:
I was considering that...any idea how much more amperage I would need....60 or 70 amp breaker ? Do you know of any safety issues in doing that ?
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No idea, I'm really not very good with this myself so dont rely on my advice, I mean I know what I'm doing, but am not comfy offering advice on saftey / what is up to code.
Sometimes the amps can up to double at startup, I'd guess your 1000 watters are around 4 to 5 amps on 220? So for 6 lights your at 24-30 amps so during the spike you could see up to 60 amps.
 
rome35

rome35

Member
serialkiller said:
No idea, I'm really not very good with this myself so dont rely on my advice, I mean I know what I'm doing, but am not comfy offering advice on saftey / what is up to code.
Sometimes the amps can up to double at startup, I'd guess your 1000 watters are around 4 to 5 amps on 220? So for 6 lights your at 24-30 amps so during the spike you could see up to 60 amps.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info
 
S

serialkiller

Active Member
Let me ask you, is 6 lights necessary? You could you save yourself a lot of money by running them on a flipflop (only 3 lights run at a time) so you have 3 ballasts running 6 lights.
 
rome35

rome35

Member
serialkiller said:
Let me ask you, is 6 lights necessary? You could you save yourself a lot of money by running them on a flipflop (only 3 lights run at a time) so you have 3 ballasts running 6 lights.
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Not sure all girls would get enough light with only 3 on at a time, running on an 8 week cylce
 
gumball

gumball

Well-Known Member
serialkiller said:
I got a fan question, I just got a new 6" vortex style fan for ventilation. I want to control it with 2 factors, time and temps. Would it be possible to use some sort of 120V relay to switch the fan and trigger it with BOTH a 120V standard wall timer as a trigger and a 12V cooling thermostat? Or if not that could I get a 120v relay and use a line voltage t-stat and wall timer and still have either/or trigger the relay?
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hey serialkiller, i seen your question and it spurred my curiousity because I have thought to have the fan temp controlled. easiest thing I found quick was a programmable thermostat with an outlet on it. it is used for window air conditioners and space heaters, but should work for you. just plug it into a timer and you have a time & temp controlled timer system. I also found the second link, looked pretty good too. hope this helps.

http://www.westsidewholesale.com/lux-5-2-electronic-programmable-outlet-thermostat-for-window-ac-and-portable-space-heaters.html?cm_mmc=googlebase-_-na-_-na-_-na&cvsfa=1870&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=393830333330


http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml
 
B

bmiquet

Member
I have a strange electrical mystery that I am sure is easy to solve for someone with a bit more experience than I.

Brief Background
- I have a 100amp box with 8 spaces for breakers
- a few months ago I had a short putting together an outlet that knocked out half the box and so every second horizontal line works. I managed to source this problem and determined I need to upgrade the old aluminum wiring running prior to the box. It will get done in 60 days when I have extra funds, but is worth mentioning.

yes yes
no no
yes yes
no no

that is how my circuit box has been operating for weeks now, just fine

- I have been happily living off half the box running 7 circuits from 4 spaces and everything is working fine, for now

What Happened Today
- one of my circuits was for a light switch connected to two lights (it was wired in series I will attach a picture soon)
- this circuit the wire got really really hot so I disconnected the hot wire
- the wire was still hot??????? meaning it was getting something via ground or white wire
- I disconnected with white wire and it sparked unexpectedly

Current Situation
- all 8 of the breaker spots are now working??????
- the area at the bottom of the box where the white wires connect has a charge of 120v. I assume this is NOT NORMAL and is the source of the problem
- a circuit (of lights) connected to a breaker in off position is working?? Note: this circuit historically tripped but now works, leading me to believe my wiring for the lights is incorrect and was the source of the hot wire problem
- all of my outlets (for all 8, although I only tested a handful) are saying ground/hot reverse, but they work if I plug something into them

Any insight is appreciated as I am concerned the bottom part of my box is live which is odd?
 
Sub Zero

Sub Zero

Well-Known Member
I have a question that has been bothering me, been looking here and there, and still can't get a precise answer or formula.
I keep reading that electric motors use more amps at start-up then under normal operating speed or load.
My thoughts say yes, I know a motor under heavy load or failing will draw more amps, yes?
So a motor that is not energized draws no amps, but to get spinning draws more amps then normal load amps, yes?

YES I'M MEDICATED... :eyesmoke:

I'm thinking these amp start-up loads are different for each type of motor, yes no?

OK, the real question I have, I have 5 Active Aqua Magnetic 25 watt 400gph pumps.

So normal operating amps are .2083, what do you think this pump would draw to get started???

I'm sure I'll read this in the morning, start laughing, and BUY MORE PRE 98, Luv it!

Thanks in advance, + rep to all who have the answer. :bigjoint:
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
rome35 said:
Having Electrical issues

Running 6 1000 watts with the new Lumatek ballasts on 220 V through a timer with 6 guage wire going to a 50 amp breaker. Every day the 50 amp breaker pops at start up. Once I reset it, I never have a problem the rest of the cycle. My concern is that it pops on start up every time...like some type of surge. When i test the amperage after resetting the breaker it measures 27 amps. What is happening?
Click to expand...
you need to get a 40 amp 'HACR" rated breaker to fix that... your only pulling roughly 29 amps @ 220.
your 50 amp has a worn element, thats why its tripping every time the lights kick on. the 'HACR' stands for Heating Air Conditioning Refridgeration. these are also known as inductive loads.... the hacr rated breaker has a dual element for inrush loads. bongsmilie
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
bmiquet said:
I have a strange electrical mystery that I am sure is easy to solve for someone with a bit more experience than I.

Brief Background
- I have a 100amp box with 8 spaces for breakers
- a few months ago I had a short putting together an outlet that knocked out half the box and so every second horizontal line works. I managed to source this problem and determined I need to upgrade the old aluminum wiring running prior to the box. It will get done in 60 days when I have extra funds, but is worth mentioning.

yes yes
no no
yes yes
no no

that is how my circuit box has been operating for weeks now, just fine

- I have been happily living off half the box running 7 circuits from 4 spaces and everything is working fine, for now

What Happened Today
- one of my circuits was for a light switch connected to two lights (it was wired in series I will attach a picture soon)
- this circuit the wire got really really hot so I disconnected the hot wire
- the wire was still hot??????? meaning it was getting something via ground or white wire
- I disconnected with white wire and it sparked unexpectedly

Current Situation
- all 8 of the breaker spots are now working??????
- the area at the bottom of the box where the white wires connect has a charge of 120v. I assume this is NOT NORMAL and is the source of the problem
- a circuit (of lights) connected to a breaker in off position is working?? Note: this circuit historically tripped but now works, leading me to believe my wiring for the lights is incorrect and was the source of the hot wire problem
- all of my outlets (for all 8, although I only tested a handful) are saying ground/hot reverse, but they work if I plug something into them

Any insight is appreciated as I am concerned the bottom part of my box is live which is odd?
Click to expand...
you have a direct short on your service entry conductors... you need a pro before your house burns down. you should disconnect the power to the panel immediatly and contact a professional.
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
xum said:
I got a good one for ya, I recently bought a 600 watt digital ballast that is supposed to be able to automatically switch between high pressure sodium bulbs and metal halide bulbs. Unfortunately they don't seem to make 600 watt metal halide bulbs that aren't extremely expensive compared to 600 watt high pressure sodium.

Is is possible to create my own step-down or converter so I can run a 400 watt inexpensive metal halide bulb in my 600 watt ballast, and change to a 600 watt high pressure sodium when needed?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
yes, but only using magnetic ballasts.
but i think your looking in the wrong places for 600w MH... because every professional lighting supplier i just checked (besides hydro/horticulture stores.. NEVER buy lights form hydro shops, unless you like paying 3x what there worth) has MH lamps for cheaper than HPS.....
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Sub Zero said:
I have a question that has been bothering me, been looking here and there, and still can't get a precise answer or formula.
I keep reading that electric motors use more amps at start-up then under normal operating speed or load.
My thoughts say yes, I know a motor under heavy load or failing will draw more amps, yes?
So a motor that is not energized draws no amps, but to get spinning draws more amps then normal load amps, yes?

YES I'M MEDICATED... :eyesmoke:

I'm thinking these amp start-up loads are different for each type of motor, yes no?

OK, the real question I have, I have 5 Active Aqua Magnetic 25 watt 400gph pumps.

So normal operating amps are .2083, what do you think this pump would draw to get started???

I'm sure I'll read this in the morning, start laughing, and BUY MORE PRE 98, Luv it!

Thanks in advance, + rep to all who have the answer. :bigjoint:
Click to expand...
not enuf info to answer.... ;)
a pic of the nameplate would bemuch better
 
L

Luv2Gro

Well-Known Member
i was wondering if i can use a standard 15a timer for a 400w hps... just plug timer into power strip, and ballast into timer, correct??
 
greenmachine1

greenmachine1

Member
I am wanting to use solar panels to run my grow. Using a SL pioneer IV t5 lights, and small fans, bubbleponics system. Using the power usage chart, if using it right. The lights only are pulling 144kw in 30 days. Now what i am wanting to do is. Get small solar setup, maybe something under 50w panels, or smaller watt array. From what i have read and watched on you tube. Im stoned trying to get this to make sense:wall:, having trouble. Ok Simple Solar Panel, down to battery charge controller, then to battery setup, onto dc to ac inverter, then to atleast my lights, or just lights and bubble setup (air & h20 pump, sm fans). Wanting to eliminate power company concern on power jump. going to be running lights 20hrs day for autoflower babies. Now what i would like you to help me with is determining how many solar panel watts im going to need to do this. I keep getting all turned around trying to convert average and all the above with all these solar sites. I figured a 45watt(3x15w) panel and 2 batteries, with 500watt inverter would work. But i would like someone that understands the #'s lil better to tell me that it will work before i buy it and waste my money. If this is way to scattered and you cant understand it PM me and i will try and do better. Thx in advance for devoting your time and brain into this wonderful hobby....:clap::clap:
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Sub Zero said:
You mean like a aluminum plate stamped with all the info you would see on a 1/2 horse power motor made in the USA, sorry these are made in China all plastic. All mine are under water so don't know if there is some additional info. http://www.hydrofarm.com/pb_detail.php?itemid=7286
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actually it could be just a sticker... like the one shown in the pic in the link you posted. the pumps were manufactured for sale in Cali.... so they have nameplates. you prolly pulled them off tho im guessin :lol:

the reason i say i need the faceplate is i need the power factor of the motor to calculate the inrush. without being there with an ammeter to see what the true power vs. apparent power is, theres no way i can calculate the inrush. but with a 25w motor, a good guess would be about 4 amps per motor for a duration of .02 seconds
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
greenmachine1 said:
I am wanting to use solar panels to run my grow. Using a SL pioneer IV t5 lights, and small fans, bubbleponics system. Using the power usage chart, if using it right. The lights only are pulling 144kw in 30 days. Now what i am wanting to do is. Get small solar setup, maybe something under 50w panels, or smaller watt array. From what i have read and watched on you tube. Im stoned trying to get this to make sense:wall:, having trouble. Ok Simple Solar Panel, down to battery charge controller, then to battery setup, onto dc to ac inverter, then to atleast my lights, or just lights and bubble setup (air & h20 pump, sm fans). Wanting to eliminate power company concern on power jump. going to be running lights 20hrs day for autoflower babies. Now what i would like you to help me with is determining how many solar panel watts im going to need to do this. I keep getting all turned around trying to convert average and all the above with all these solar sites. I figured a 45watt(3x15w) panel and 2 batteries, with 500watt inverter would work. But i would like someone that understands the #'s lil better to tell me that it will work before i buy it and waste my money. If this is way to scattered and you cant understand it PM me and i will try and do better. Thx in advance for devoting your time and brain into this wonderful hobby....:clap::clap:
Click to expand...
seriously.... you could run 100 t5's 24/7 for a decade and the power company wouldnt care... you want to spend 5 figures on a solar setup that would save you maybe 1.50 a month in power... a floro operation doesnt use shit for power... your tv pulls a good ten times the amount of power those lights do. just a thought
 
rome35

rome35

Member
IAm5toned said:
you need to get a 40 amp 'HACR" rated breaker to fix that... your only pulling roughly 29 amps @ 220.
your 50 amp has a worn element, thats why its tripping every time the lights kick on. the 'HACR' stands for Heating Air Conditioning Refridgeration. these are also known as inductive loads.... the hacr rated breaker has a dual element for inrush loads. bongsmilie
Click to expand...

Thanks a bunch Iam5toned I will give that a try .
 
Maripan

Maripan

Member
Thank you for being available for Q&A. I need to cool an enclosed room (that is, no window). Do you recommend an evaporative cooler when the room air it cools will be pulled through a light reflector in a grow tent? I am concerned such air may ruin the light bulb. Are there any other safe alternatives to maintain a 70 degree room that has no ducts or windows to the outside. The air pulled through the light reflector goes to the attic.

Maripan
 
greensister

greensister

Well-Known Member
I hope you can get to this question.

I have a couple of electrical outlet timers. I also use CFLs. You are not suppost to use timers (that are not specified for fluoros) for fluoros because the trickle of current will harm the ballasts.

My question is:
If i hook up a surge protector to the timer (which is not specified for fluoros), and have a fan and an incandescent bulb plugged into it (closest to the breaker switch) will this protect against the trickle when the timer has cut the power to the surge protector?

I appreciate your time.
 
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