Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions

BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
If your Antec 'puter PSU will do 500W adn you are powering 2 small case fans (typically I think 12 watts?) You are only pulling fro the wall the 2 x 12watts plus any overhead of the PSU. So only shooting from the hip, that PSU is using 35-50 watts from the wall.

The 500 watt rating is the MAX it will supply, not what it will use all the time.

Kalibre said:
Hello!

I was hoping someone could help me with a question regarding computer power supplies. :confused:

I am currently using the only PSU i had laying around, a 500w Antec, to power two computer fans inside a box. They are the average size computer fans, Thermaltake (i think they say 72+ cfm?).

How many watts does it actually use for 2 fans? Does it ummm.. spike full power when you turn it on for a second or anything like that?

I have 400w of CFL and a now a 400w HPS is coming and i'm worried about my lil' power strip.

Thanks in advance, and i apologize if this question has been asked and answered already.



:joint: Respect
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BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Best not to post Q's with data when medicated ;)

But you need to match the voltage and have as much or more amps from the power supply.

THe motors are rated at a voltage for a reason. THe insulation on the windings is made for a certain voltage. Go over that and you rish the electricity jumping through the insulation (keep in mind that this insualtion on windings isn't more then a varnish. Keeps the windings as close as possible = better efficiency.)

Tossing on hight voltage to a motor is not a good idea. can't predict its life span without mass quantities of data that you will not get from the MFG.

If you do overdrive the motor with more voltage, then the amp requirements will drop proportionally.

And yes, 100ma = .1 Amp

Danielsgb said:
I have another of these little fans. It says 3V 500ma. I have several power supplies from old stuff. I have 2 of these $6 fans, so if it wears them out faster no big deal (just 1 flowering harvest would be OK). I assume the mA is a tenth of A so the 210 mA =.21mA (kinda medicated). :eyesmoke: I get that over 3V is over powering it, but would the 4.5V.4A adapter fail cause the fan is 500mA? What about the 5.0V 1000mA? Can I power both with it. both are 6V so its 2.5V out of the 3V to each right? that makes more sense to me but I want them to run like raped apes:twisted: So faster is better:fire:
9V 210mA
4.5V .4A
7.2V 500mA
12VAC 833mA
9V 800mA
5.0V 1000mA
Thanks
Daniels
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BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
Yea that makes sense. I was going to look into a thermostatic way to control the whole room. I can't spend any more $$ on my set-up so I'm trying to make due with what I have already. Here's more pics. I haven't found it's diagram yet online It's a GE Time Switch (56922, 15087, 15207). If this won't help I can dust my scanner off and unpack it. Thx
Daniels
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Google had a link to the manual on first link.

Whats your Q?
 
C

Cheech Wizard

Well-Known Member
This is a stupid question but one that i am stressing over... is it safe to have a 25 dollar duct booster fan on for.... well mine has been on 24/7 for 8 months now... Is that un-safe? it works fine and isnt hot or anything. Just want peace of mind.. Im gonna replace it but wonder if its ok to let it go another 2 months... thanks
 
M

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
Yea that makes sense. I was going to look into a thermostatic way to control the whole room. I can't spend any more $$ on my set-up so I'm trying to make due with what I have already. Here's more pics. I haven't found it's diagram yet online It's a GE Time Switch (56922, 15087, 15207). If this won't help I can dust my scanner off and unpack it. Thx
Daniels
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a cheap thermostat for your needs should be under $20. if you keep the temps under control,humidity should stay reasonable.

manual is located here
http://www.jascoproducts.com/support/manual-downloads/applications/DocumentLibraryManager/upload/15087-15207-56922-Manual-eng.pdf

make sure you set the dipswitches for the proper voltage.- 2&3 on for 220 volts.
your guess of the bottom right is correct if you want to power it from the same 220 volt feed.
to wire it for 220,you will have 2 seperate 110 legs,most likely red and black wires. the first 2 terminals are labeled timer,red goes to one,black to the other,add a jumper wire from the first terminal to the first NO terminal and a jumper from the second terminal to the second NO terminal.next run a red and black wire from the 2 com terminals (1 to each) and attach the fan.the timer case is plastic so it cant be grounded but be sure to ground the fan.
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
mrmadcow said:
a cheap thermostat for your needs should be under $20. if you keep the temps under control,humidity should stay reasonable.

manual is located here
http://www.jascoproducts.com/support/manual-downloads/applications/DocumentLibraryManager/upload/15087-15207-56922-Manual-eng.pdf

make sure you set the dipswitches for the proper voltage.- 2&3 on for 220 volts.
your guess of the bottom right is correct if you want to power it from the same 220 volt feed.
to wire it for 220,you will have 2 seperate 110 legs,most likely red and black wires. the first 2 terminals are labeled timer,red goes to one,black to the other,add a jumper wire from the first terminal to the first NO terminal and a jumper from the second terminal to the second NO terminal.next run a red and black wire from the 2 com terminals (1 to each) and attach the fan.the timer case is plastic so it cant be grounded but be sure to ground the fan.
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I wired it like you said and it works perfectly. Thank you so much. That has been a thorn in my side for weeks. A buddy was suppose to help but he's been busy. Now I can start testing my temps over longer time intervals.
How do I wire a cheap thermostat to it? I thought it would be a special one cause its 220V and seems more expensive. Again THX
Wish I could give more than 1 rep.

Daniels
 
M

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
.....How do I wire a cheap thermostat to it? I thought it would be a special one cause its 220V and seems more expensive.
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you will need to find a thermostat for air conditioner or attic fan that can handle AC voltage like this http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2E158?Pid=search
the above would be wired into 1 of your 110 legs as a switch and open when temps drop below your preset. this will work fine for a fan but would not work for a ballast as they need both sides of the 110 to be cut.
most thermostats can only switch very low volts/amps. and are made for heating -turn on when the temps drop. a relay could be used w/ something like this but would cost as much to buy as the proper thermostat.
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
mrmadcow said:
you will need to find a thermostat for air conditioner or attic fan that can handle AC voltage like this http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/2E158?Pid=search
the above would be wired into 1 of your 110 legs as a switch and open when temps drop below your preset. this will work fine for a fan but would not work for a ballast as they need both sides of the 110 to be cut.
most thermostats can only switch very low volts/amps. and are made for heating -turn on when the temps drop. a relay could be used w/ something like this but would cost as much to buy as the proper thermostat.
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Once again Thank You very much. I'll get one and add it to my room. The entire room is holding 80-84 range with the intake, exhaust, and small fans all running. Once again thanks.kiss-ass
 
T

TNCLYN

Member
First off, thanks for sharing your knowledge.

I did not read all 181 pages, but I would like to know if you can use generators to run lights? From portable to the big 'back-up' generators.

I would like to at least be able to use them 3-4 days a week to help with electrical costs and keep me under the radar as far as the elec. company goes.

I was thinking of using those pre-made electrical boxes with a 30 or 50 amp cord built in. My goal would be to plug these into a generator. If generators will work, do they need to be the 'sine wave' type?

I'll ask more questions if they will even work.

Thanks
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
I have 1 more problem if you could help? Sorry if this one is a pain. I was going to un-install my dual HPS ballast to get proper photos to post, but I'll explain the problem and maybe it'll be obvious to you.
it is 2 security 150w HPS
I wired a timer in the case and a small fan to cool it. I tested it before I put it in, but only ran leads out to test before I put it in. It had 120v on my tester but after I installed it the bulbs didn't lite up. the sockets both have 120 power,
Here's the timer http://www.smarthome.com/59407/GE-15071-7-Day-Smart-Digital-Timer-Switch-White/p.aspx
Sorry it's this isn't enough info. I'll post more later. and get better pics

Thx Daniels
 

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BigBudBalls

BigBudBalls

Well-Known Member
Cheech Wizard said:
This is a stupid question but one that i am stressing over... is it safe to have a 25 dollar duct booster fan on for.... well mine has been on 24/7 for 8 months now... Is that un-safe? it works fine and isnt hot or anything. Just want peace of mind.. Im gonna replace it but wonder if its ok to let it go another 2 months... thanks
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Actually its not a stupid question. some motors are meant for intermittent duty other for constant. That fan is fine for full time running.
 
M

mrmadcow

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
I have 1 more problem if you could help?...... . I tested it before I put it in, but only ran leads out to test before I put it in. It had 120v on my tester but after I installed it the bulbs didn't lite up. the sockets both have 120 power,
Thx Daniels
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someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the socket should have a much higher voltage w/ no bulb in it.the ballast/cap kicks up the voltage to get the bulb to fire & then drops voltage down to a level needed to keep the bulb lit.
BTW, be careful when playing w/ the capacitor,it holds a charge even when unplugged for days.
check the wiring against a diagram see here
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=653
or
http://www.ballastkit.com/highpressuresodiumhpshidballastkit-p-333.html
 
IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
mrmadcow said:
someone correct me if I am wrong but I think the socket should have a much higher voltage w/ no bulb in it.the ballast/cap kicks up the voltage to get the bulb to fire & then drops voltage down to a level needed to keep the bulb lit.
BTW, be careful when playing w/ the capacitor,it holds a charge even when unplugged for days.
check the wiring against a diagram see here
https://www.rollitup.org/view.php?pg=faq&cmd=article&id=653
or
http://www.ballastkit.com/highpressuresodiumhpshidballastkit-p-333.html
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the open circuit voltage for a 150w HPS ballast should be real close to 120v... if not theres an ignitor/cap problem. you need a mercury vapor lamp (same wattage as the hps) to tell the difference. if the mercury vapor lamp lights, its a ignitor problem, if its not, its the cap, or potentially cap and ignitor.

if your voltage is really low, like 100v, then its most likely the ballast core has an internal fault... (magnetic ballast only)

for the original poster, i would check one thing first- make sure your lamps are snug in the sockets... you would be amazed just how many 'bad ballasts' have loose lamps.
then check your wiring. make sure you have a known working HPS lamp to verify the ballast as well. a mercury lamp should only be used for testing/diagnosing.....
 
merkabah

merkabah

Well-Known Member
hey i was wanting to hook up 5 1000 watts, so i think i need what like 100 amp circuit breaker cause of fans and stuff , will it be okay if i hooke one ballast up each to a wall socket or what should i do, is the wall wire good if i just hook it up one a piece? thanks ahead
 
AquafinaOrbit

AquafinaOrbit

Well-Known Member
Not growroom question, just general electricity
If you have a circuit feeding a light then into a receptacle, and you simply cut the wires going into the receptacle and put electrical tape as thick as original insulation around each conductor, what happens on those wires? Since there is no pull on the electrical tape side do they remain empty? Or would you want to wire the hot and neutral together? Seems like something I should know but guess its been to long since I've done any electrical, forgetting it all haha. Thanks
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
IAm5toned said:
the open circuit voltage for a 150w HPS ballast should be real close to 120v... if not theres an ignitor/cap problem. you need a mercury vapor lamp (same wattage as the hps) to tell the difference. if the mercury vapor lamp lights, its a ignitor problem, if its not, its the cap, or potentially cap and ignitor.

if your voltage is really low, like 100v, then its most likely the ballast core has an internal fault... (magnetic ballast only)

for the original poster, i would check one thing first- make sure your lamps are snug in the sockets... you would be amazed just how many 'bad ballasts' have loose lamps.
then check your wiring. make sure you have a known working HPS lamp to verify the ballast as well. a mercury lamp should only be used for testing/diagnosing.....
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Once again thanks guys. I'll pull it off the wall, pull the cover and re-check the wiring. I'll get photos and give it another try.
 
Danielsgb

Danielsgb

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
Once again thanks guys. I'll pull it off the wall, pull the cover and re-check the wiring. I'll get photos and give it another try.
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I re-checked the wiring. Here's a drawing of how I wired it. The voltage indicator shows 120v at both sockets, and it shows power using the ground instead of the black (or white) which makes sense to me. I will get a mercury vapor bulb tomorrow and test w/ that. Of course I ran Grounds to everything. My friend explained that the timer makes the red become the new black. Is that right? It tested as I amde it, but I never hooked the bulbs up till after I put it in and finished my DIY hood. I plugged it in and the timer said it was ON ;I waited for several minutes after and no bulbs lit up.
 

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IAm5toned

IAm5toned

Well-Known Member
Danielsgb said:
I re-checked the wiring. Here's a drawing of how I wired it. The voltage indicator shows 120v at both sockets, and it shows power using the ground instead of the black (or white) which makes sense to me. I will get a mercury vapor bulb tomorrow and test w/ that. Of course I ran Grounds to everything. My friend explained that the timer makes the red become the new black. Is that right? It tested as I amde it, but I never hooked the bulbs up till after I put it in and finished my DIY hood. I plugged it in and the timer said it was ON ;I waited for several minutes after and no bulbs lit up.
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please, let me help you out here man....



:bongsmilie:
 
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