Experienced Electrician! Here to Answer Any and All Growroom Electrical Questions
- Thread starter bricktown73
- Start date
pizzlestubs
Active Member
With 3 phase 220v with 4 prong outlets how do you convert to run 3 prong standard outlets, do they might light bar conversions?
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
well first you must make sure the angle of the dangle is equal to the circumference of the swing.
then, attach the sky hook to the wire stretcher, but in reverse, so that instead of stretching the wire it is compacting the wire.
feed the 2 wires into the wire stretcher, and pull untill the have been combined.
now attach the remaining 3 wires to the receptacle. it doesnt matter where they go, it just matters there's 3 wires.
then, attach the sky hook to the wire stretcher, but in reverse, so that instead of stretching the wire it is compacting the wire.
feed the 2 wires into the wire stretcher, and pull untill the have been combined.
now attach the remaining 3 wires to the receptacle. it doesnt matter where they go, it just matters there's 3 wires.
Danielsgb
Well-Known Member
I sent a new guy for an hour and a half mission for a "board stretcher" at a lumber production facility I worked at.well first you must make sure the angle of the dangle is equal to the circumference of the swing.
then, attach the sky hook to the wire stretcher, but in reverse, so that instead of stretching the wire it is compacting the wire.
feed the 2 wires into the wire stretcher, and pull untill the have been combined.
now attach the remaining 3 wires to the receptacle. it doesnt matter where they go, it just matters there's 3 wires.
Never heard of a sky hook and wire stretcher.
Daniels
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
how can one set a basement up to be able to run at lest 15000 watts. i don't mean where te outlets will be placed and the actual setup. Rather, what would one have to install in order for any basement to be able to handle 1500 watts, wether it be for a finished basement for a bar or anything else...
bongrippinbob
Well-Known Member
Quick question for the electrical experts here.
I have a 600watt HPS ballast kit that I have had for about 2 1/2 years. I just rebuilt my room and had to unhook the ballast from the mogul socket. Once I connected it back together, the bulb will not light. The ballast was never moved, only disconnected from the socket.
I hooked up my other ballast to my reflector to make sure it wasn't the bulb or the wiring to the reflector. With my second ballast it worked just fine.
The ballast kit is getting power, it is making a humming noise. The noise is a louder than usual and sounds like it is coming from the capacitor. I checked all the wire nuts to make sure they were tight and everything seemed fine.
So I know its not the bulb, the wiring to the reflector, and I'm about 100% sure its not the wiring on the ballast itself. So I have narrowed it down to one of the ballast components. I am guessing it is the capacitor because I have it directly next to the hot part of the ballast kit and the new ballasts advertise keeping there caps cooler by having them in a separate area.
Do you think that replacing my capacitor will fix the problem? I just spent like $600 redoing my room and don't have the money to buy a new ballast. Any help is apreciated.
Bob
I have a 600watt HPS ballast kit that I have had for about 2 1/2 years. I just rebuilt my room and had to unhook the ballast from the mogul socket. Once I connected it back together, the bulb will not light. The ballast was never moved, only disconnected from the socket.
I hooked up my other ballast to my reflector to make sure it wasn't the bulb or the wiring to the reflector. With my second ballast it worked just fine.
The ballast kit is getting power, it is making a humming noise. The noise is a louder than usual and sounds like it is coming from the capacitor. I checked all the wire nuts to make sure they were tight and everything seemed fine.
So I know its not the bulb, the wiring to the reflector, and I'm about 100% sure its not the wiring on the ballast itself. So I have narrowed it down to one of the ballast components. I am guessing it is the capacitor because I have it directly next to the hot part of the ballast kit and the new ballasts advertise keeping there caps cooler by having them in a separate area.
Do you think that replacing my capacitor will fix the problem? I just spent like $600 redoing my room and don't have the money to buy a new ballast. Any help is apreciated.
Bob
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
If you have an MH bulb try that. if it lights, probably the igniter if not probably the cap.
bongrippinbob
Well-Known Member
Well I replaced the cap and the ignitor and the bulb still wont light. Any other ideas? It looks to me like I may have to spend the $125 on a new ballast.
IAm5toned
Well-Known Member
you would need a 100 amp subpanel, a contactor or 2, couple relays, many outlets, timers. lots of things. prolly 2-3k$ parts and labor. and about 400$ a month added to your elec bill
dtp5150
Well-Known Member
Hello! I have one of these LED grow lights looking like this:
I have a multimeter. If I hold one probe and touch the other to a screw on the case, there is a 60volt reading. I also get shocked touching mylar that is touching the light case.
On another similar light, the volts are basically none.
What happened to my light? Its still working. I'd like to open it up and fix this shocking problem, but if I had a clue what to look for that would be great. It is a 300 watt light. The 60 volt reading is AC.
I have a multimeter. If I hold one probe and touch the other to a screw on the case, there is a 60volt reading. I also get shocked touching mylar that is touching the light case.
On another similar light, the volts are basically none.
What happened to my light? Its still working. I'd like to open it up and fix this shocking problem, but if I had a clue what to look for that would be great. It is a 300 watt light. The 60 volt reading is AC.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
Its not grounded.
Try this. Measure between same screw and ground (can be a metal water pipe, but make sure there is no plastic PEX in the plumbing) and see what you get.
The 60V is what floating on the units ground and the potential of *you*.
(Mylar is a clear plastic. The shinny is it with *aluminum* on one side, so it should conduct. Thats what basically makes it ideal for anti-static bags.)
Try this. Measure between same screw and ground (can be a metal water pipe, but make sure there is no plastic PEX in the plumbing) and see what you get.
The 60V is what floating on the units ground and the potential of *you*.
(Mylar is a clear plastic. The shinny is it with *aluminum* on one side, so it should conduct. Thats what basically makes it ideal for anti-static bags.)
dtp5150
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the reply!
It is around 65.3V if I touch it to another ground.
So, I should open it up and make sure the frame is grounded? I tried plugging the light into a new socket but it has made no difference.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
I would. 65.3 sounds like it half wave rectified. I'd say it missing the ground or just flat out wired up wrong.
BigBudBalls
Well-Known Member
thisismynewxbox
Member
I recently got access to a 35 watt HPS. My question is, its a sealed box with the light on the bottom of it. There are 3 raw wires coming out, one labeled 120 volt.
Can i just cut a computer monitor power cable to hook this up to my standard house outlet.
There is no on/off switch on this box. What do you think of that?
Any help /expertise is appreciated!!
Can i just cut a computer monitor power cable to hook this up to my standard house outlet.
There is no on/off switch on this box. What do you think of that?
Any help /expertise is appreciated!!