jonsmith2012ad
Well-Known Member
Your setup is awesome man great work!
Extreme Flowering Under Pair of Timber 48SAMS
- Thread starter Or_Gro
- Start date
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Thanks man!
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
I can only imagine the smell, bro! ... must be like on a gas station, lol!
Org diesel or not their yield look pretty good and there are still another 2-3 oz. left on the plants.
Unfortunately most of the colors dissapear with the curing process but i like the remaining earthy frankincense flavor of purple strains. Has something sacred..
Org diesel or not their yield look pretty good and there are still another 2-3 oz. left on the plants.
Unfortunately most of the colors dissapear with the curing process but i like the remaining earthy frankincense flavor of purple strains. Has something sacred..
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
@Randomblame can you post a pic/diagram of where your uva-b light is in relation to your plant footprint. Looks like it’s off to the side on this pic:
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Yeah, its an optical illusion. They hang exactly in the middle. Both bulbs are mounted behind each other so it looks almost like one 4ft bulb. The reflectors sits directly in the middle of the fixture and the fixture itself is hanging 85cm/34" above the plant canopy.
UVB bulbs are on in the moment so here's a shot with the LED's off and dimmend down and a little drawing of what it would look like in the total view.
I'll try to take a few more shots with better perspective later today if you still need them.
UVB bulbs are on in the moment so here's a shot with the LED's off and dimmend down and a little drawing of what it would look like in the total view.
I'll try to take a few more shots with better perspective later today if you still need them.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
So, lights are finally off. Here's a shot from below and another shot of the plants. Leaves look okay so far and canopy is still open. I think, I'll flip the bloom switch end of this week. 
Note my hook and eye technique. I use soft chain links which you can bend by hand and use them to outfit my pot edges with a number of "hook eyes". Hooks from garden wire you can easily adjust to your needs and use them again and again. Works much better as to use strings to bent them down and with plastic pots its even easier cuz you just need to drill a few little holes around the edges.
Note my hook and eye technique. I use soft chain links which you can bend by hand and use them to outfit my pot edges with a number of "hook eyes". Hooks from garden wire you can easily adjust to your needs and use them again and again. Works much better as to use strings to bent them down and with plastic pots its even easier cuz you just need to drill a few little holes around the edges.
Last edited:
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Here's an old shot of the fixture with the 3ft reptile bulb in the center. I've just removed bulb and reflector and replaced them against two 2ft bulbs and the DIY wing reflectors.
Rest looks still the same I've only rewired the LED circuits and created a series-parallel circuit(7s4p, each 5 strips + 2 COBs in series, and this 4 times in parallel) to use them remotely wired to a single HLG-320H-1750B.
BTW,
the price for Osram Square finally comes down to normal. 3 bucks per diode..
Rest looks still the same I've only rewired the LED circuits and created a series-parallel circuit(7s4p, each 5 strips + 2 COBs in series, and this 4 times in parallel) to use them remotely wired to a single HLG-320H-1750B.
BTW,
the price for Osram Square finally comes down to normal. 3 bucks per diode..
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Thaks for pics.
I use similar hook & eye tech...drilled holes around perimeter of bucket lip, with zip ties as the eyes. I like to have the little bit of tying i need on the bucket so i can move plant without untying. I turn buckets daily, and occasionally move them inside/outside tent. Very helpfull for defol and plant inspection, too.
Or_Gro
Well-Known Member
Perhaps you can do a thread showing electrically ignorant growers like me how to make a strip using these in far red or blues.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
Haha! That would only make sense if I had a number of diodes here to play with. And a thread without pictures its pretty useless, I would say. Maybe I could create a thread when I add a few deep-red Osram Squares to my exsisting rig. But the current run will need another 3 months at least.
But old threads about 3w diodes already exsist here in the LED area and basically its still the same princip.
This guy has made a few good videos which are still available on youtube.
They explain a lot more than just series and parallel wiring.
With constant current and identical LED strings the differences in resistance(voltage) are pretty small with todays LED's so most of the time you don't need limiting resistors. Basically you need only to solder them in series or simply use solder less LEDs with poke-in connectors to avoid soldering. Connect the string to a siutable CC driver and it works.
If you look at the LED-tech website for Osram Square you can see them available with added connectors. Rapidled has them also solder less.
And for heatsinks I would use 20-25mm wide alu c-channels and a minimum of 1inch diode spacings. Thats already enough. With 2 or more inch between the diodes you could even use smaller c-channels.
You can even get PCB's for a certain number of diodes and with footprints for different types of diodes. 1ft Strip PCBs for 4-12 Osram/Cree diodes exsist for reflow soldering.
But the easiest way is to ask a manufacturer for custom made strips. I know LED-tech.de and Cutter offer this service on customer request and I'm pretty sure you'll find someone doing the same in the US. Maybe rapidled.. they have already added customer requests to their offerings such as the FR puks from gromau5.
Meanwells LDD drivers could be used with the bluefish controller to make each color separately dimmable and these LDDs are powered via one single HLG CV/CC driver. Its pretty easy. The gromau5 puks have such an LDD for instance.
Wiring a few LEDs is one of the simplest things in the electronic world and the world really does not need another how-to-wire-a-string-of-LEDs thread.
But old threads about 3w diodes already exsist here in the LED area and basically its still the same princip.
This guy has made a few good videos which are still available on youtube.
They explain a lot more than just series and parallel wiring.
With constant current and identical LED strings the differences in resistance(voltage) are pretty small with todays LED's so most of the time you don't need limiting resistors. Basically you need only to solder them in series or simply use solder less LEDs with poke-in connectors to avoid soldering. Connect the string to a siutable CC driver and it works.
If you look at the LED-tech website for Osram Square you can see them available with added connectors. Rapidled has them also solder less.
And for heatsinks I would use 20-25mm wide alu c-channels and a minimum of 1inch diode spacings. Thats already enough. With 2 or more inch between the diodes you could even use smaller c-channels.
You can even get PCB's for a certain number of diodes and with footprints for different types of diodes. 1ft Strip PCBs for 4-12 Osram/Cree diodes exsist for reflow soldering.
But the easiest way is to ask a manufacturer for custom made strips. I know LED-tech.de and Cutter offer this service on customer request and I'm pretty sure you'll find someone doing the same in the US. Maybe rapidled.. they have already added customer requests to their offerings such as the FR puks from gromau5.
Meanwells LDD drivers could be used with the bluefish controller to make each color separately dimmable and these LDDs are powered via one single HLG CV/CC driver. Its pretty easy. The gromau5 puks have such an LDD for instance.
Wiring a few LEDs is one of the simplest things in the electronic world and the world really does not need another how-to-wire-a-string-of-LEDs thread.
Randomblame
Well-Known Member
We can figure out together what parts are needed and which layout would be the most practical to supplement these wavelengths. I'm assuming, you want them to use together with the elite boards so you can just add them to the exsisting frame. If you add such an LDD to each string of diodes you could drive a bunch of these DC to DC at once with just one driver. An HLG-240H-54A for the boards and an HLG-60H-36A for all colored strings for instance. An LDD with each string and a bluefish to switch all these LED's on and off and dimm them all separately. There are also PWM extension boards available for the bluefish controller to control even more drivers at once. Theoretically there is no limit.
I recommend using an external housing like posted a few days ago to keep everything neatly and in place. With a little case you can easily add AV meters or displays. I don't know for sure if the bluefish has already an own android/iOS app to control all the setting but even if not you only need a browser window and its IP adress to enter its UI.
Simple construction and easy replicability are most important if you plan to equip a few tents. Drivers and LED modules remain easily interchangeable and you could continue using the rest for years. Even with other boards and LEDs because every few years you'll want to upgrade and in this case it makes a lot sense to reuse as much of the setup as possible to keep the costs down.
I recommend using an external housing like posted a few days ago to keep everything neatly and in place. With a little case you can easily add AV meters or displays. I don't know for sure if the bluefish has already an own android/iOS app to control all the setting but even if not you only need a browser window and its IP adress to enter its UI.
Simple construction and easy replicability are most important if you plan to equip a few tents. Drivers and LED modules remain easily interchangeable and you could continue using the rest for years. Even with other boards and LEDs because every few years you'll want to upgrade and in this case it makes a lot sense to reuse as much of the setup as possible to keep the costs down.
jonsmith2012ad
Well-Known Member
Looks great man I’m blown away by the size of those tree trunks at the bottom, crazy shit.