FFOF ( Fox Farms Ocean Forest ) made Simple - Autoflower

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I don’t use CO2 ( only when I did hid lights ) that was about a 1000 ppm back then with bags....
NOW i am just experimenting with ambient environment ( CO2 is rising anyways
due to climate change .... lol ) and read it is about 408ppm currently.

Scary chart :o
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Im trying to harden them up naturally and let the environment TELL ME if I am on track.
I originally thought I might have to at least introduce some silica to toughen them up but apparently so far so good.
RH is very low ( 21% ) lately .... and just mist them occasionally and before lights out .
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Update .....

GREEN GREEN GREEN .... So far so good .

Stompers and GOJIBERRY are early flower and reek in smell ..... ( good thing .... lol )
Stompers have a deep spice musk /earth smell .... definitely Dank .
Goji is more of a deep sweet flower .

These had top dress and are still going strong. Leaf is dark but NO TIP BURN .... hell ya.
So no need to change things. I’m looking to do a recharge at LEASTone more time and probably for the MID FLOWER/ LATE stage.
Water is still tap dropped to 6.5. I do notice that plants drink a lot and often ... much more than other grows that I spaced out.

A myco water boost may be at weekend ..... then back to water. “ The more myco the better “
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Go go n chill

Well-Known Member
Update .....

GREEN GREEN GREEN .... So far so good .

Stompers and GOJIBERRY are early flower and reek in smell ..... ( good thing .... lol )
Stompers have a deep spice musk /earth smell .... definitely Dank .
Goji is more of a deep sweet flower .

These had top dress and are still going strong. Leaf is dark but NO TIP BURN .... hell ya.
So no need to change things. I’m looking to do a recharge at LEASTone more time and probably for the MID FLOWER/ LATE stage.
Water is still tap dropped to 6.5. I do notice that plants drink a lot and often ... much more than other grows that I spaced out.

A myco water boost may be at weekend ..... then back to water. “ The more myco the better “
View attachment 4416680View attachment 4416681View attachment 4416682View attachment 4416683View attachment 4416684View attachment 4416685
Going into flower I always like a good green color, I just like knowing that they are good to go through stretch. My current grow I flipped when they were light green..... the plants showed sex faster but I was chasing nitrogen deficiency then and I would rather be feeding just water. Here is week 7 in FFOF amended
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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I absolutely love Alaska ph down ( 100% citric acid ) crystals over any other like GH ( phosphoric acid ).
I use basically a pinch and it drops to where I need it whether my Dutch buckets or soil grows.
It will not kill the myco drench I add to my soil . Walmart sells it online but you may have to look maybe amazon .

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Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Update :

The girls have been doing fabulous on same medium and water. Was going to top dress but had to do errands so tomorrow I will officially recharge with the FFOF top dress. I find growing by cleaner ( simpler ) means my plants express much more fragrance and growth. No worries on PPM ratios or EC ... just the soil and plant .

I-never used RO or distilled or whatever fad water to grow . I fill an open container “ the night before “ and leave until morning to use.
The Great White myco complex is quite good .... I never used it before and can see the perkiness of the plants soon after. I am now a true believer that a happy medium makes a happy plant. No more Synth bullshit for me ..... FFOF TRIO got relegated to the donation bin at a local hydro store. GH MAXIBLOOM/ Grow and Megacrop are my only keeper Nutes , when running Hempy buckets .

But , I do recommend having at least .... bottle of Cal/mag for those uncertain issues. It’s like the duct tape of my toolbox.
I found the prebuffering of FFOF PH to be pretty damn stable this far along , so it also gets rebalanced when I top dress.
Pretty damn simple .... right ?

Note : IMO ... the “ only ” thing FFOF lacks is more perlite .... that’s it.
I lurk many grows from growers complaining about FFOF and the majority of the time it is the grower HYPERLOADING this soil with
even more amendments. I see them use FFOF as a BASE soil then start loading seabird or bat guano , dolomite and whatever else.

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Blue back

Well-Known Member
I used to dig holes in outdoor places with bad soil and fill them with OF. You can basically grow anywhere doing this. I did this in much less obvious spots. Worked great in pure sugar sand where you'd never think marijuana would be growing. Pulled some serious crops doing this. Just that simple everytime it rained they were fed.
 

TessaMaria

Well-Known Member
I absolutely love Alaska ph down ( 100% citric acid ) crystals over any other like GH ( phosphoric acid ).
I use basically a pinch and it drops to where I need it whether my Dutch buckets or soil grows.
It will not kill the myco drench I add to my soil . Walmart sells it online but you may have to look maybe amazon .

View attachment 4419009
Oh wow! Your plants look so healthy! I love your simple method! I’m going to try this on my next round of seeds. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge
Happy Sunday
 

Hempire828

Well-Known Member
Well I be damned AGAIN... that’s fucking it... I’m sold... all I’ve been doing is buying ffof and screwing it up... that’s it no more super damn soil for me... ph and that’s it...Man your plants are in fire and are about as KISS as can be...
I will go to the coop tomorrow morning and buy more FFOF.. and start my grows over... great info.. lesson learned ,thanks dude
 

Humanrob

Well-Known Member
I'm moving towards something similar, I can't help myself though, I still add some time-release dry nutes when I up-pot. I've done grows where I overdid everything -- too much light, too much nutes, etc. -- all the way to very mild soil amendments and relatively soft lighting, and pretty much everything in between. What I've found is that plants with moderate soil, lighting, and temps are extremely happy, have fewer issues, and anything that does go wrong happens much more slowly leaving more time to react.

Raise everything up, and (genetics allowing) the plants get bigger denser buds, but with the intensity things happen more quickly and there are a lot more opportunities for things to go south. Those are just my observations, but chasing mega-colas seems to be a common motivation. This does bring up a lot of questions, like just how much more weight at harvest will someone get from pushing the plant really hard? And is there any difference in quality (flavor, smell, THC levels?) of bud produced through a gentle grow vs. an intense grow?

Sorry if I missed it, but I'm wondering what kind of lights this grow is under, how many w/sf, how far the lights are from the plant, what kind of temps you're running at? It seems you can't change one element without impacting all the others.


This bag is half filled AND HERE IS WHERE YOU CAN RUN TWO DIFFERENT VARIATIONS.

1. Fill remainder with same mix .
2. Add a tablespoon of Dry Fertilizer ( Dr. Earth 5-5-5 or megacrop 1 tsp ).
Have you run these side-by-side and seen any difference?
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Top feed time !

Even tho I’m running autos on this regiment doesn’t mean regs can’t be done either .... just space according to stages of grow .
A good topfeed will continue on for a couple more weeks with watering between . The myco bump really does the work as I try to keep the microbial life thriving. You can obviously use whatever brand of myco you like ( recharge / Xtreme Mykos / Root magic , etc. )

Even a bag of FOX FARMS Light Warrior works wonders as an innoculant ....
TIP : Buy bag of Light Warrior .... open bag of FFOF ( 1.5 cu ft ) , dump 4 cups of LW into FFOF .... mix well , add about 5 cups of perlite. Mix again ...... spray a little water into it . Close and store.

You are basically charging it up for use . You can even dump all of the above into rectangular tote with lid and store.
One little trick , I do for large mixes is in said tote but ...... dump a flat beer in or yeast packet . Close lid and store.
This is what I do to compost piles to kick the microbial into gear .... sometimes you see the stringers forming.

I may do a thread on this ...... FFOF is fantastic as a medium to tweak ( slightly ).

Anyways today is top dress day. I mix the perlite , great white , and slightly dampen soil. Then I scoop it on top.
No measuring just even coverage.

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Happy Growing :weed:
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Looking to hear from others that have some “ tweaks “ they have discovered.
Like an alternative to the EB Stone Recipe 420 .... Kellogg’s ? Or Dr. Earth .
Some have told me about a little kelp meal or humic .

But that Light Warrior TWEAK actually bridges that humic issue. And really completes the FFOF.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
I'm moving towards something similar, I can't help myself though, I still add some time-release dry nutes when I up-pot. I've done grows where I overdid everything -- too much light, too much nutes, etc. -- all the way to very mild soil amendments and relatively soft lighting, and pretty much everything in between. What I've found is that plants with moderate soil, lighting, and temps are extremely happy, have fewer issues, and anything that does go wrong happens much more slowly leaving more time to react.

Raise everything up, and (genetics allowing) the plants get bigger denser buds, but with the intensity things happen more quickly and there are a lot more opportunities for things to go south. Those are just my observations, but chasing mega-colas seems to be a common motivation. This does bring up a lot of questions, like just how much more weight at harvest will someone get from pushing the plant really hard? And is there any difference in quality (flavor, smell, THC levels?) of bud produced through a gentle grow vs. an intense grow?

Sorry if I missed it, but I'm wondering what kind of lights this grow is under, how many w/sf, how far the lights are from the plant, what kind of temps you're running at? It seems you can't change one element without impacting all the others.



Have you run these side-by-side and seen any difference?
Quantum boards ... QB 304 S5 bin ( OG boards 4 year old ) with Citize COB ( 3500K )
These were some of the first offerings from HLG .... I jumped on board when they were just being introduced.
I run perpetual grows and these have been running none stop SINCE I built that rig in 2015 . Those COBS were actually purchased from HLG when they “ used “ to sell COBS on their site. I have been touching base with @robincnn and @Stephenj37826 thruout the past few years , even testing proto boards , so I have great respect for their gear. These S5 bin leds have been doing well , no dim on any string , manageable temps and awesome results.

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Power has been upgraded since original build , now I remote mounted 2 ) 240w meanwell B type ( pot dimmed for each set of 2 boards parallel ) . The cool thing is when I bought these 4 boards they were all Vf matched so I can configure all 4 in series or parallel or by sets of 2 . I do have the original Slate 1 heatsinks so I have to supplement active cooling hence the clip fan for power up. COBS are powered at 120w and no longer dimmed ( leads open ) .

Current power is about 420w ( 300w at boards ) with the 120w cobs in a 3x3. I actually like running even softer at times as to control stress. I love them.
Temps are ambient room temps ( 76 - 81 ) with or without added oscillating fan. Cali temps . Height about 18” . Any younger plants start “ below “ canopy at about 22” to 24” until they get their legs and then on risers to match canopy. 3500k is the best to control
node spacing , and am growing a comparative grow under QB96s elites and they are 3000k with red 660 ( better flower ).

No humidifier, No a/c , No CO2 ....

One MOD tho , is the Mylar masking to the inside of my tents ..... much better use of light , less loss.

Here is why I believe in these boards ..... This was another rig I built from an idea by @Growmau5 modifying an old blurple panel.
It was a mars hydro 600 white ( classic ) that I gutted and replaced with One QB 304 and one of the on board drivers. Gave it a rustoleum hammered finish from a rattle can and it was reborn ! It’s even sporting the original sticker from the board in 2015 that I put on the outside.
In same 3x3 ..... at a lousy 50watts total , I grew 4 plants ! ...... Nobody can tell me these boards don’t do it’s job !
Look at the operating temps .... I reused the on board fan cooling added a few more vent holes and that’s it.

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Bottom line is I’m sure any setup / lights will work even outdoor.
 

Budzbuddha

Well-Known Member
Alternative soils : for layering with FFOF ( 50/50 )


I really liked Dr. Earth HOMEGROWN veg / garden soil , I used to get at Home Depot of all places and now can’t even get it here
regionally ... which sucks . They have a “ black label “ mix for “ medical plants “ but hard for me to find. I try to buy locally and not order
bags online , hence the EB Stone.

Black Magic is “ ok “ but not my first choice .
Sunshine #4 is pretty good but more expensive compared to EB Stone .
Happy Frog potting is good too.

Please feel free to chime in on your favorite bagged.
 

Kushash

Well-Known Member
Alternative soils : for layering with FFOF ( 50/50 )


I really liked Dr. Earth HOMEGROWN veg / garden soil , I used to get at Home Depot of all places and now can’t even get it here
regionally ... which sucks . They have a “ black label “ mix for “ medical plants “ but hard for me to find. I try to buy locally and not order
bags online , hence the EB Stone.

Black Magic is “ ok “ but not my first choice .
Sunshine #4 is pretty good but more expensive compared to EB Stone .
Happy Frog potting is good too.

Please feel free to chime in on your favorite bagged.
Love this thread.
Haven't grown in FFOF for several years, I'm going to get a bag and compare it to my home made soil.
FFOF water only till about the 1st week of flowering then top dressed.

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