First Cree Build

DesertPlants said:
That would work fine. Your input power from the line will be 108-124v (Standard in USA is 110, but there are some variances). That power adapter can handle up to 250v.
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Thanks bro!!! And the 10A fuse is enough?

The protection will have with this is ok? Nothing else to install? Thanks again!
 
TomBombadil420 said:
Thanks bro!!! And the 10A fuse is enough?

The protection will have with this is ok? Nothing else to install? Thanks again!
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Yes, that should be fine, though I question the use of the removable power cord. I did several like that before as well and I have pretty much stopped using them and instead use an IP68 waterproof power junction box. The plug connectors make sense if you're going to be disconnecting the cord for some reason, but I found that I never did and it really just added more weight to one side.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-wate...nector+3+pin&qid=1556033769&s=gateway&sr=8-15
 
The other thing... make sure you ground the frame of your light to the gound terminal on whatever you end up using. HLG drivers don't have a ground on the DC side, so you have to run a little peice of wire from the ground line before the driver to a bolt or machine screw going through the frame.
 
DesertPlants said:
Yes, that should be fine, though I question the use of the removable power cord. I did several like that before as well and I have pretty much stopped using them and instead use an IP68 waterproof power junction box. The plug connectors make sense if you're going to be disconnecting the cord for some reason, but I found that I never did and it really just added more weight to one side.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/RENYIAO-wate...nector+3+pin&qid=1556033769&s=gateway&sr=8-15
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Good to know! Thanks for input!
 
DesertPlants said:
The other thing... make sure you ground the frame of your light to the gound terminal on whatever you end up using. HLG drivers don't have a ground on the DC side, so you have to run a little peice of wire from the ground line before the driver to a bolt or machine screw going through the frame.
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I’ll screw the driver to a heatsink I have and it to the Aluminium Frame, do i need install the wire too?
 
TomBombadil420 said:
I’ll screw the driver to a heatsink I have and it to the Aluminium Frame, do i need install the wire too?
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All HLG metal cased drivers will self ground through the frame if it is mounted to the metal frame. If you mount the driver directly to the metal frame, theres no need for the additional ground on the AC side. Its when you have the driver seperate from the frame that you need to add the wire to the frame and to the green earth ground wire on the AC side.
That hlg 185H-c1400 is a perfect driver for (4) 1212's. You will run about 200W (50W ea cob). Its exactly what I use right now on multiple different lights I built...
(4) citi 1212's on that same driver:
DSC_0190 - Copy.JPG DSC_0197 - Copy.JPG

(8) CREE CXB 3070's on 2 of those same drivers
20160502_221836 - Copy.jpg 20160502_222053 - Copy.jpg
 
HydroRed said:
All HLG metal cased drivers will self ground through the frame if it is mounted to the metal frame. If you mount the driver directly to the metal frame, theres no need for the additional ground on the AC side. Its when you have the driver seperate from the frame that you need to add the wire to the frame and to the green earth ground wire on the AC side.
That hlg 185H-c1400 is a perfect driver for (4) 1212's. You will run about 200W (50W ea cob). Its exactly what I use right now on multiple different lights I built...
(4) citi 1212's on that same driver:
View attachment 4322253 View attachment 4322256

(8) CREE CXB 3070's on 2 of those same drivers
View attachment 4322254 View attachment 4322255
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This! I usually put a rubber bumper between the driver and the frame to reduce vibration noise transfering from the active cooling fans. If you're not doing active cooling, you can just mount directly to the frame.
 
HydroRed said:
All HLG metal cased drivers will self ground through the frame if it is mounted to the metal frame. If you mount the driver directly to the metal frame, theres no need for the additional ground on the AC side. Its when you have the driver seperate from the frame that you need to add the wire to the frame and to the green earth ground wire on the AC side.
That hlg 185H-c1400 is a perfect driver for (4) 1212's. You will run about 200W (50W ea cob). Its exactly what I use right now on multiple different lights I built...
(4) citi 1212's on that same driver:
View attachment 4322253 View attachment 4322256

(8) CREE CXB 3070's on 2 of those same drivers
View attachment 4322254 View attachment 4322255
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Great!!! Thanks bro!
 
Hey guys! What do you think about supplemental Light? I’ll add the growmau5 red puck, and i was reading about uva and ir but i cannot find sope good reviews to waste 80$ in diy at rapidled with theese:

https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-infrared-led-840-870nm/

https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-semileds-ultra-violet-uva-led-390-400nm/

How many for my 2x2 tent, really worth the money and benefits the plant? Or maybe add some blue spectrum really im newbie but i want to make something great :D Thanks
 
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TomBombadil420 said:
Hey guys! What do you think about supplemental Light? I’ll add the growmau5 red puck, and i was reading about uva and ir but i cannot find sope good reviews to waste 80$ in diy at rapidled with theese:

https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-infrared-led-840-870nm/

https://www.rapidled.com/solderless-semileds-ultra-violet-uva-led-390-400nm/

How many for my 2x2 tent, really worth the money and benefits the plant? Or maybe add some blue spectrum really im newbie but i want to make something great :D Thanks
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If you dont have much experience i wouldnt go for it. Id rather spend money on how to control your environment, temps and rh is more important than sup lighting.
 
Get a full environmental setup with a controller unless you have very stable climate. With leds its extra important to be able to fully control your environment. You will probably need to add heating parts of the year or at night.
 
TomBombadil420 said:
Well said! I need a good inline fan and its about same price as supplemental Light. I think is better to buy that!
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No no no its not. Let me save you someday and possibly a LOT of future frustration. Do NOT but a metal cased inline centrifugal fan. They suck ballsack. Over time the bearings take a shit and it's loud as fuck from day 1 and only gets worse.
I've got 2 of these fans. They're so incredibly quiet and work Fucking GREAT.
IF you've got speed controllers on hand already, they sell a model with AND without a built in controller on the power cord.

This is a link to the fan WITH the controller attached. You can search around and find the one without if you need to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Duc...hash=item2137986626:m:mCSNpjmMoEbphdmsV7Owzsg
 
Airwalker16 said:
No no no its not. Let me save you someday and possibly a LOT of future frustration. Do NOT but a metal cased inline centrifugal fan. They suck ballsack. Over time the bearings take a shit and it's loud as fuck from day 1 and only gets worse.
I've got 2 of these fans. They're so incredibly quiet and work Fucking GREAT.
IF you've got speed controllers on hand already, they sell a model with AND without a built in controller on the power cord.

This is a link to the fan WITH the controller attached. You can search around and find the one without if you need to.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Inline-Duc...hash=item2137986626:m:mCSNpjmMoEbphdmsV7Owzsg
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Thanks! Do you have the same? You know the brand for looking it at Amazon? for me is a little hard to buy in eBay.
 
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