First grow, help please

1. high temp. 2. high p.h and 3 way too many nutes. /// get an a.c and fix the nute. prob p.h will drop

Here is the nutrient regimen I use and how I control PH with little or no ph up or down...

So OK - feeding schedule week by week. This is the GH weekly feeding program, slightly tweaked. I will only call out the volume of each part per gallon of water in the following manner: grow, micro, bloom, ppm range. Example - 5-2.5-2.5-400/800 would mean 5 ml grow, 2.5 ml micro, 2.5 ml bloom and a ppm of 400-880. Remember it's per gallon. You Euro's can easily convert to liters. 4 liters is just a little bit over 1 gallon. It should also be noted that I use the hardwater micro due to my tapwater. I suggest using the hardwater micro in place of the regular micro if your tap water is over 200 ppm total or you have over 70 ppm Ca. RO water users should use the regular micro.
Veg -
week 1 5-2.5-2.5-400/600
week 2 10-5-3- 600/800
week 3 12-6-3 800/1000 (continue week 3 formula if additional veg time is required.)

Bloom
week 1 6-6-10- 800/1200
week 2 3-7-12 - 1000/1400
week 3 3-8-14 - 1000/1400
week 4 3-8-16 - 1000/1400
week 5 (discussed in detail below*)
week 6 0-7-20 - 1000/1400
week 7 0-6-20 (see bleow**)
* During week 5 if not using a booster like Superbud, Bushmaster Kabloom etc. run 2.5-7-18. I use MOAB (Mother of All Blooms) or BushMaster at 50% of recommended strength, and use 1.25-3.5-9 for the fert base.
**If running an 8 week strain you should only run the ferts during week 7 for a maximum of 3-4 days. This gives you 10 days for flushing. I should note that if I use ferts for a few days in week 7, I take the lants over the 8 week mark. Personally I flush for a min of 14 days. But 10 is bare minimum imo/ime.

The ppms work out almost exactly. I tend to lean toward the lower side of the range, unless I have a really heavy feeder that I know can handle it.

At every ressy change out I add in 5 drops per gallon of 35% food grade H2O2. During flush use ph adjusted water at 5.5-6.0
I will add epsom salt at week 1 of bloom if the plants are heavy feeders AND I see signs of an Mg def. Otherwise I won't use it. The only time I have ever had Mg def is during transition. The GH 3 part is a little low on Mg, but the PBP and Canna nutes are way lower.

Now- how to control your PH...
There are a couple factors that cause your PH to drift. The most common is running the nute solution too strong or too weak. If it's too strong, your PH drops. If it's too weak the PH rises. You have to find the balance point. If you find that the formula above is say, a little strong, and say you have a 20 gallon ressy, mix the nutes for 18 gallons. If it's a little weak, mix it for 22 gallons. You follow?
The other common mistake is mixing your nutrient solution and trying to adjust the PH right away. You have to allow time for the ph buffers in the nutrient solution to do their job. Mix the nutes up, and bubble or circulate for 12 hours before even looking at your PH. You will find the PH to be almost right on target.
I use little or no ph adjusters. (Except during flush). I use tap water, with a starting PPM of 300-400 and a starting PH of 7.4-9.0 (Thats crazy you say! The water is too hard, you will never get stable PH and you will have too much Ca, causing a lockout of Mg!) Bollocks I say.
Every week, on Friday I drain the ressy and fill with plain water. I let that run overnight giving the plants a little flush. This also allows the chlorine and ammonia to evap. On Saturday morning, I mix the nutes into the ressy. I DO NOT adjust ph at this time. Let that run as is overnight. On Sunday morning, I check ph and adjust if needed. Usually don't have to.
Doing things this way has saved me from constant PH drifts, and using about 150 ml of ph down every ressy change, and a little here and there throughout the week to keep it in the desired range. Now, the most I ever have to use is about 30 ml.if any at all. (I have a 35 gallon ressy btw) My Ph stays at a constant 5.5-5.8.

If you are still having PH issues using the above method, an alternative is to PH adjust the plain water to 5.5 BEFORE you add nutes.

1 gal = 3.15 L good stuff midnight take another puff.

ty i will give that a try when she wakes up. i can't afford a/c unit but i will look into that for future grows. but i do use ice bottles to keep water below 80F usually 60-75F.

Looks like nitrogen deficiency to me.

Hey Nzime and congrats on your first grow bro!

Just curious, but why have you continued to cut the tips of the leaves off after cloning?
I know it is common practice to trim the leaves when you take cuttings for clones (to reduce moisture transpiration from full-sized leaves while clones establish) but this should be a once only thing at the time of taking cuttings.

You should not continue to trim the ends of leaves once you have taken cuttings, otherwise the plant will continue to divert a portion of it's energy into healing the leaf cuts rather than growing leaves/buds as it should be.

You might want to trim your plant of leaves/branches at some stage later in the grow if you are doing a Scrog, but you shouldn't trim leaves automatically from start to finish as standard practice unless you have a specific reason to do so.

Good luck and grow on bro!

Also just wanted to correct a couple of points $waGgEr made:

$waGgEr said:

1. high temp. 2. high p.h and 3 way too many nutes.

Click to expand...

1. pH is not too high at current level of 5.3 - it is too low.
Ideal Hydroponic pH range is between 5.6-6.2. Ideally, try to keep it as close to 5.8 as possible when starting out. Any higher than 6.2 and you are blocking the plant from uptake of Phosphorous, Potassium and Calcium and some other micro nutrients like Boron, Iron and Manganese.



2. You do not have way too many nutes, just perhaps a few too many extra additives?
30% strength for GH nutes @ 4th week of Flower is not high at all. Most people start flower at 100% every time as plants the size of yours should be able to handle 100% strength flower nutes no worries.
You should be running your flower nutes at 100% strength by week 4 generally if everything else is going ok.

If I was in your situation I would flush the res, add 100% GH 3-part flower nutes, drop the Rasta Bob "One Love" flower bloom enhancer and keep the CalMag & H2O2 going (how many milliliters is one capful of H2O2 and what strength is it?).
Looks like you have slight some nute burn on the tips and I have a feeling that Rasta Bob might be to blame. If you leave Rasta Bob out of the equation then at least you will know if it helped or hurt your situation further.

$waGgEr said:

1 gal = 3.15 L good stuff midnight take another puff.

Click to expand...

1gal = 3.8 Liters

Looks like you are on track though Nzime, so keep chipping away my friend!

Globule said:

Hey Nzime and congrats on your first grow bro!

Just curious, but why have you continued to cut the tips of the leaves off after cloning?
I know it is common practice to trim the leaves when you take cuttings for clones (to reduce moisture transpiration from full-sized leaves while clones establish) but this should be a once only thing at the time of taking cuttings.

You should not continue to trim the ends of leaves once you have taken cuttings, otherwise the plant will continue to divert a portion of it's energy into healing the leaf cuts rather than growing leaves/buds as it should be.

You might want to trim your plant of leaves/branches at some stage later in the grow if you are doing a Scrog, but you shouldn't trim leaves automatically from start to finish as standard practice unless you have a specific reason to do so.

Good luck and grow on bro!

Click to expand...

i continued to cut the leafs because the ends were dead. so i figured if i left the tips on, the plant would spend time and energy fixing the dead material. but i guess it doesn't matter?

Globule said:

Also just wanted to correct a couple of points $waGgEr made:



1. pH is not too high at current level of 5.3 - it is too low.
Ideal Hydroponic pH range is between 5.6-6.2. Ideally, try to keep it as close to 5.8 as possible when starting out. Any higher than 6.2 and you are blocking the plant from uptake of Phosphorous, Potassium and Calcium and some other micro nutrients like Boron, Iron and Manganese.



2. You do not have way too many nutes, just perhaps a few too many extra additives?
30% strength for GH nutes @ 4th week of Flower is not high at all. Most people start flower at 100% every time as plants the size of yours should be able to handle 100% strength flower nutes no worries.
You should be running your flower nutes at 100% strength by week 4 generally if everything else is going ok.

If I was in your situation I would flush the res, add 100% GH 3-part flower nutes, drop the Rasta Bob "One Love" flower bloom enhancer and keep the CalMag & H2O2 going (how many milliliters is one capful of H2O2 and what strength is it?).
Looks like you have slight some nute burn on the tips and I have a feeling that Rasta Bob might be to blame. If you leave Rasta Bob out of the equation then at least you will know if it helped or hurt your situation further.




1gal = 3.8 Liters

Looks like you are on track though Nzime, so keep chipping away my friend!

Click to expand...

the h202 is just the 3% strength and cap full = 1ml roughly, and i will cut out rasta bob and see if that makes a difference, ty for your all your input everyone!

greatly appreciate it

$waGgEr said:

1. high temp. 2. high p.h and 3 way too many nutes. /// get an a.c and fix the nute. prob p.h will drop

Click to expand...

Took the words right out of My mouth. LOL

nzime said:

i continued to cut the leafs because the ends were dead. so i figured if i left the tips on, the plant would spend time and energy fixing the dead material. but i guess it doesn't matter?

Click to expand...

Just leave the burnt leaf tips my friend - they don't harm the plant.
Cutting them just slows down plant growth temporarily and doesn't help your harvest.

Gro on bro!