First Major Op

super ville said:

Elite Nugz, Thank you!

1. I assumed Flora Nectar was a bloom booster. Its a molayses and from what i understood that increases blooms
Nah.. FloraNectar is a Sweetener. It helps to increase the aroma and taste of your weed. The molasses you can really just do without. Molasses is very low on the totem pole of important nutrients. Its main function in my garden is that it helps increase smell and flavor and also feeds my beneficial bacteria. Other then that, I probably wouldnt even use it. You need something thats high in Phosphorus. And some Potassium, with little to no nitrogen. Those are the important things in flowering. Then about on week 4 of flowering, your plants start to really suck down some magnesium. Along with calcium, so a good Calcium Magnesium suppliment like CaMag+ from General Organics would be good. By using the CalMag, you'll prevent your plants from yellowing too early. So add some type of Calcium Magnesium and a bloom booster like Monster Bloom or GH KoolBloom, and you'll help those buds pack on more weight.
2. Horizontal is side to side not up and down. Even the Adjust-A-Wing is horizontal. I dont understand your feedback here. However, I am upgrading to the adjust-a-wing after the first harvest.
So you have a horizontal parabolic hood?? I didnt even know they made those. I figured all parabolics were vertical and you had just made a typo. I see your pic below and it is horizontal. Either way, parabolics are the worst reflectors. You always want your reflectors to have that bumpy, shiny aluminum look. Its been tested time and time again, that stuff has the highest amount of reflectivity.
3. Where should i keep the Ph at for the new coco addition?
The coco is tricky one. It really depends on how much perlite and other stuff that you add to the mix.
4. How can i test my calcium content?
Find a water bill around the house and see if it has a website on it. If it does, go to that website and look for any type of water analysts. If you find it, then just check to see if you have hard water. It should say on there. Or if it gives a PPM of the water and its over 300ppm, then I would consider it hard, and assume that you have too much calcium or other junk in your water, that that could cause some issues. If you've been using tap water for all of this time so far, and had no issues, then you should be good though.
5. Each cycle currently has 8-9 plants. There are 4 rows which run lenghtwise with the light mover. The middle two rows have the first 8 plants and the two outer rows have the second 8 plants. the third and forth cycle of 8 plants each, which is smaller and are elevated to obtian the hieght of the mature plants are on each ends. Each plant is space around 1.5 cf to supply lighting to lower branches. a total of 32 plants.
Well, if your doing Sea of Green (SOG), and your taking off all the side branches, and focusing on just the main cola... then I think you should be squeezing them closer together. If you dont, then your losing valuable light space, that could be spent growing bud, instead of keeping the floor well lit.
6. The side branches were removed on cycle three as an experiment to focus growth to one main cola. not every branch was removed just the ones that grew until week 1 of flowering. In week 3 I've already added 4-5 un-cut branches and know more will be produced in the coming weeks. this is just an experiment to focus energy on one main cola. I've been told I can expect as much or more from a single cola which is 32" as my un-cut bushy 36" plant at harvest. yes I'm using every area of the primary light source. they are squeezed in as tight as possible.
Okay... all of the talk about focusing energy, completely ignore it. I've seen people do some crazy things to their plants and it ridiculous. Just let the plant do its thing and try to get as many tops to the surface as possible. Look into screen of green. Its an easy way to keep plants short and bring all the tops to the surface, where light tensity is at its prime, and you'll get a bunch of fat buds. I'll post some pics of my last scrog at the bottom of this message.
7. 36-38" is expected harvest height. They are in 1 gal pots currently but I have upgraded cycle 4 to 3 gal pots. the 3 gal pots are in veg for another few days so that means my first 3 cycles will be in a 1 gal pot.
Too many inches, cycles and pot sizes for me to understand man. If their finishing at about 3 feet, then you should be using no less then 3 gallons. Your plants have to be root-bound, and that will kill your yield and plant health in a second. I would do 5 gallon, just to be safe.
8. I've never heard anyone say using a light mover is bad. I argued the same things as you about the mover but tens of people and vast amount of books have all said use a light mover if you have one.
LoL. Take my advice or not buddy... its totally up to you. I've done it all though bro.... I used light movers and didnt like them. I tried everything possible to make them work, because I was absolutely convinced that they would benefit my room. No matter what I did, all a light mover did was spread out my yield. So instead of a 4x4 area filled with fat solid dense buds, I had a 4x7 area filled with looser buds, that looked to be the same size, but they didnt have that density. So really all your doing is spreading out your yield. So you can do the same yield, in a smaller area without the light mover. If you dont believe me, test it out for one cycle and see what happens. If you want more weed buddy... you gotta get yourself more light and stop moving yours around making them all loose. Light movers resemble nature, but our little HPS lights are nothing even close to the sun. Since our lights are way to weak, we dont have the luxury of getting to move them back and forth.
9. By harvest of cycle 3, i hope to have three 600 HPS with inline cooling with adjust-a-wing reflector. maybe even CO2.

Check these out... Buds come out solid..!! This is a low producing strain and I pulled over a pound per light. If I run a big producer, then I'd double that amount.

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