Mindmelted
Well-Known Member
The gun forums are right.
MM
MM
Florida Growers Thread
- Thread starter GreenLight
- Start date
Mindmelted
Well-Known Member
A democracy is nothing more than mob rule, where fifty-one percent of the people may take away the rights of the other forty-nine. — Thomas Jefferson
alldayeriday420
Well-Known Member
beutiful....hey gypsy how you get it to branch out like that? Guess you need alot of space to do it..
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
here is an example of what MBlaze can do with fimming...
MY 3 BIG TREES: https://www.rollitup.org/grow-journals/161675-pics-new-girls.html
FIM TUTORIAL: https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-mar...ml#post2573230
FIM TUTORIAL: https://www.rollitup.org/advanced-mar...ml#post2573230
I thought id show ya a few recent pics of the plant I gave away which is the same strain as the last grow.
alldayeriday420
Well-Known Member
nice mommas....fimming...awesome technique...
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
No mommas...they're all getting ready to flower...
alldayeriday420
Well-Known Member
nice......lots of bud....all personal to right?...gota love it...hey you making some more of that kief....those last pics you posted in a diff. thread are amazing...bet it kicked your ass......
...gota love it...hey you making some more of that kief....those last pics you posted in a diff. thread are amazing...bet it kicked your ass......
Heads Up
Well-Known Member
Retired, don't know if this helps or not but I was at my supply store in tampa yesterday and picked up a garden magazine. There is a site called...
rainshowermfg.com
They show a product called the green knight and it it supposed to reduce chloramine in your water. Crappy site but it does have a phone number and you can get the particulars from them.
GypsyBush
Well-Known Member
a quote from Al...
Originally Posted by Al B. Fuct
no wuckin' furries.
If I had to offer general suggestions to a noob, these would be the most significant:
* Build your room so it presents consistently correct conditions; 24-26C @ 30-50%RH with frequent ventilation.
* All locations for grow rooms are different but proper ventilation and thus keeping temps down is the hardest thing to accomplish in the spaces folx usually have available to use as grow ops. Cooltubes are an amazing helpmeet toward that end. There's some light intensity loss through the tube glass but you lose more yield through overtemp than through the 3-5% reduction in light intensity through the Pyrex. Also, when the vast majority of heat from lights is removed by the constant operation of cooltube fans during lights-on, you can significantly derate how much fan power you need for the room's main exhaust blower. Before I used cooltubes, my ~500cu ft flowering room struggled to stay under 26-27C (in summer in particular) even with a monster 250mm, 200W 650CFM exhaust blower assisted by 2x 150mm intake blowers. Could probably get by these days with a single 150mm or 200mm on exhaust and a 150mm on the intake.
* Shoot nutrient strength low rather than high. You will probably find that you get by just fine on half or less of the mfr's recommendations. You lose less yield from slight underfert than you do from nute burning.
* More is not always (in fact, usually not) better with growing plants. There's a bell curve to this- there's 'not enough,' 'just right' and 'dead.' The only exception is lighting, where there's no such thing as too much light, as long as you can maintain room air temps in the 24-26C range.
* Avoid magic sauces. They're mostly water and rarely justify their cost. If there's no solid botanical evidence supporting the use of an additive, skip it. If the mfr doesn't tell you what's in a magic sauce (which is common), you can't establish the scientific evidence necessary to justify the use of any given magic sauce. If you do want to mess with these things, the only way to establish efficacy is to run comparison grows; that means (at least) two crops side by side under the same lighting in the same room. Most grow rooms' conditions are not totally and perfectly climate controlled year-round. They usually vary significantly from crop to crop. Comparisons based on serial crops can be coloured by variations in room conditions. Only side-by-side comparisons eliminate the variations in conditions and give you a clear indication of the merit of any additive. As a rule, find out what works for you and keep doing it the same way. Don't change anything without being strongly convinced that the change is helpful.
* 'Organic' doesn't mean 'good' or even 'better.' In the case of reliable, repeatable, constant rotating harvest ops, inorganic nutes are superior as you can use H2O2 with them. Can't count the number of new growers who get sucked into organics and then have root rot problems they can't solve with 'organic' enzyme-based pathogen controls. Organic nutrients are composed of complex biomatters (e.g. bat guano, worm castings, etc) which the plants can't assimilate directly. You depend upon organic nutrients to break down into N, P & K in the rootzone (at not always well-known rates) before the plants can eat them. May as well use inorganic nutes which are already in that state and also have a solid idea of nutrient strength and bioavailability, as well as have the ability to use (regularly applied) H2O2, which is a sure-fire, every single time solution to root probs.
rotsaruck.
haloman420
Well-Known Member
I got this clipping from a friend yesterday. Its been in the ground outside with root magic. Its more like a half a plant. The plant was 8ft I got 3ft off the top. Now my question is can I trim the fan leaves off like tomorrow without hurting it or should I wait until it takes root. My buddy said if I trim the fan Leaves the energy from them will go into rooting but I dont know? Help!
Check out my white desiel....any thought?? about 25 days into flower
I am lovinig this stuff call "SNOW STORM: I use it as a foliar spray every other day with great results.
I start them at 500 ppm's and go up 50-75 ppm's each feeding with a least a 4 gallon top off water and fresh nutes to bring up to my new ppm reading. I flush every 10 days with 5 gallon of r/o water and then 5 gallons of r/o with H2O2.
Using floranova, BB, Monster Bloom powder, Molassess, a little carbo, Cal Mag. and overdrive with nutes to finish starting at week 5.
Tracking 2 1000 watt HPS No CO2 yet.
I am lovinig this stuff call "SNOW STORM: I use it as a foliar spray every other day with great results.
I start them at 500 ppm's and go up 50-75 ppm's each feeding with a least a 4 gallon top off water and fresh nutes to bring up to my new ppm reading. I flush every 10 days with 5 gallon of r/o water and then 5 gallons of r/o with H2O2.
Using floranova, BB, Monster Bloom powder, Molassess, a little carbo, Cal Mag. and overdrive with nutes to finish starting at week 5.
Tracking 2 1000 watt HPS No CO2 yet.
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TokenGrower
Active Member
So ...it's been a few weeks since I've been able to post. How the hell is everyone doin'?
So my lady's are in week 6 of flowering and one is dropping fan leaves like crazy. Please take a look at the pictures below and tell me if it's normal or a serious problem. Thanks ahead of time.
So my lady's are in week 6 of flowering and one is dropping fan leaves like crazy. Please take a look at the pictures below and tell me if it's normal or a serious problem. Thanks ahead of time.
TokenGrower
Active Member
I hope so. It's my first grow and I'm a little nervous when it has dropped like ten or so fan leaves. I've read the plant tends to sacrifice the fan leaves putting all of it's energy into the bud....but I wanted to get some second opinions. Thanks.