Flowering going so slow

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az2000

Well-Known Member
Nyan Rapier said:
Mars Hydro? They seemed to veg really well, not so much flower.
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Mars Hydro does well in veg. However, in flower you have to increase the watts per square foot to 50 (or more). That can be disappointing to those who follow Mars Hydro's published specifications (37w/sq ft). It's not indicative of LED, it's just a problem with these inexpensive LEDs. The more efficient ones work well in flower (at 25-30w/sq ft).

Which Mars model do you have? How large is your grow space? (Adding more light might help.).

Which nutrients do you use? (Quantities of each bottle. Details please.).

Photos of the plants under natural light would help.
 
Nyan Rapier

Nyan Rapier

Well-Known Member
Nyan Rapier said:
Update 15 days later. I got new nutrients. NPK is 15-30-15
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Sorry I'm so late. To answer your question I'm using store bought nutrients, miracle grow (I know). Right now I'm using one teaspoon of 15-30-15 per gallon of water. I do feedings on every 3rd watering now. I'm about to start watering 2 gallons every three days. So I'd feed every 9 days. 5 gallon containers.

As for the lights I'm using a 1200. http://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-MARSII-Spectrum-Penentration-Lighting/dp/B00XMQOO56. It's in a 5x5 tent, but I had to kill back a few plants. So I'd say I'm using approximately 4x4.
 
A

az2000

Well-Known Member
Nyan Rapier said:
Right now I'm using one teaspoon of 15-30-15 per gallon of water.
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That sounds pretty strong, and high in P at this stage of growth. (I finish at NPK ratio 1-2-1.8. You're doing 1-3-1.).

Nyan Rapier said:
As for the lights I'm using a 1200. http://www.amazon.com/MarsHydro-MARSII-Spectrum-Penentration-Lighting/dp/B00XMQOO56. It's in a 5x5 tent, but I had to kill back a few plants. So I'd say I'm using approximately 4x4.
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That's 56w/sq ft. That's sounds right for Mars Hydro.

This is an example of why MarsHydro isn't recommended much. At that power, you could run HPS and have a serviceable fixture, something you could sell on Craigslist 5 years from now.

It will be interesting to see how your buds come out at harvest at that power level. Sometimes people run 70 (even 90)w/sq ft. At lower levels Mars produces airy buds. I think you're on the border with your power level.
 
Nyan Rapier

Nyan Rapier

Well-Known Member
az2000 said:
That sounds pretty strong, and high in P at this stage of growth. (I finish at NPK ratio 1-2-1.8. You're doing 1-3-1.).



That's 56w/sq ft. That's sounds right for Mars Hydro.

This is an example of why MarsHydro isn't recommended much. At that power, you could run HPS and have a serviceable fixture, something you could sell on Craigslist 5 years from now.

It will be interesting to see how your buds come out at harvest at that power level. Sometimes people run 70 (even 90)w/sq ft. At lower levels Mars produces airy buds. I think you're on the border with your power level.
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How did you arrive at 56w/sq ft? 1200w isn't the actual wattage is it? If it doesn't work well I'll just use it to veg/grow a bunch of lettuce and get a new light.
 
A

az2000

Well-Known Member
Nyan Rapier said:
How did you arrive at 56w/sq ft? 1200w isn't the actual wattage is it? If it doesn't work well I'll just use it to veg/grow a bunch of lettuce and get a new light.
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The page you linked to said it draws 580w. You said you have a 10 sq ft, tent. That's 58w/sq ft.

The way most LEDs (especially of the Amazon/eBay variety) state their capacity is the actual diode capacity (3w diodes * 100 diodes = 300w). It's not invalid. (You're buying that much diodes. Nobody runs 100% capacity due to heat.).

I'd be less disturbed about how it's not really 1200w, and more about how you're basically pushing HPS watts when you could have bought HPS instead. (I.e., there's no reason to buy lights like this. They don't serve any purpose. They don't cut energy cost or heat like efficient LEDs do. They aren't serviceable like a traditional light is. I don't see the point.).
 
Nyan Rapier

Nyan Rapier

Well-Known Member
az2000 said:
The page you linked to said it draws 580w. You said you have a 10 sq ft, tent. That's 58w/sq ft.

The way most LEDs (especially of the Amazon/eBay variety) state their capacity is the actual diode capacity (3w diodes * 100 diodes = 300w). It's not invalid. (You're buying that much diodes. Nobody runs 100% capacity due to heat.).

I'd be less disturbed about how it's not really 1200w, and more about how you're basically pushing HPS watts when you could have bought HPS instead. (I.e., there's no reason to buy lights like this. They don't serve any purpose. They don't cut energy cost or heat like efficient LEDs do. They aren't serviceable like a traditional light is. I don't see the point.).
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Sorry I mean 5ft x 5ft. Isn't that 25 sq ft? I thought you may have divided 1200 by something. I swear I probably don't know basic geometry. But yeah I kind of have to agree with you. I'll probably end up cutting my loses and getting an HPS instead.
 
A

az2000

Well-Known Member
Nyan Rapier said:
Sorry I mean 5ft x 5ft. Isn't that 25 sq ft?
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You are right. (I'm like a random-number generator.). So, the light draws 580w/sq ft. That's only 23w/sq ft.

You could run low watts like that with quality/efficient LED like Area-51. I do it with household LED lightbulbs. That article has a link to a pant I grew at 21w/sq ft.

But, the epi-whatever lights are typically run 55-70w/sq ft. (I saw one "wall of fame" grow at 90.). They seem like a bad value when you could run HPS at 60w/sq ft -- and have a fixture you can service for the rest of your life using commoditized parts, sell it on Craigslist years from now, etc.

If you bought LED to save electricity, reduce heat, (and don't want to spend for efficient LED) you could step up from HPS to CMH. You'd run it at about 35-40w/sq ft. You could buy one CMH to cover 3.5x3.5, use your MarsHydro to cover about the same footprint (at 60w/sq ft).

If you're curious about CMH, start a thread in the Indoor->LED forum.
 
Nyan Rapier

Nyan Rapier

Well-Known Member
az2000 said:
You are right. (I'm like a random-number generator.). So, the light draws 580w/sq ft. That's only 23w/sq ft.

You could run low watts like that with quality/efficient LED like Area-51. I do it with household LED lightbulbs. That article has a link to a pant I grew at 21w/sq ft.

But, the epi-whatever lights are typically run 55-70w/sq ft. (I saw one "wall of fame" grow at 90.). They seem like a bad value when you could run HPS at 60w/sq ft -- and have a fixture you can service for the rest of your life using commoditized parts, sell it on Craigslist years from now, etc.

If you bought LED to save electricity, reduce heat, (and don't want to spend for efficient LED) you could step up from HPS to CMH. You'd run it at about 35-40w/sq ft. You could buy one CMH to cover 3.5x3.5, use your MarsHydro to cover about the same footprint (at 60w/sq ft).

If you're curious about CMH, start a thread in the Indoor->LED forum.
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az2000 said:
You are right. (I'm like a random-number generator.). So, the light draws 580w/sq ft. That's only 23w/sq ft.

You could run low watts like that with quality/efficient LED like Area-51. I do it with household LED lightbulbs. That article has a link to a pant I grew at 21w/sq ft.

But, the epi-whatever lights are typically run 55-70w/sq ft. (I saw one "wall of fame" grow at 90.). They seem like a bad value when you could run HPS at 60w/sq ft -- and have a fixture you can service for the rest of your life using commoditized parts, sell it on Craigslist years from now, etc.

If you bought LED to save electricity, reduce heat, (and don't want to spend for efficient LED) you could step up from HPS to CMH. You'd run it at about 35-40w/sq ft. You could buy one CMH to cover 3.5x3.5, use your MarsHydro to cover about the same footprint (at 60w/sq ft).

If you're curious about CMH, start a thread in the Indoor->LED forum.
Click to expand...
az2000 said:
You are right. (I'm like a random-number generator.). So, the light draws 580w/sq ft. That's only 23w/sq ft.

You could run low watts like that with quality/efficient LED like Area-51. I do it with household LED lightbulbs. That article has a link to a pant I grew at 21w/sq ft.

But, the epi-whatever lights are typically run 55-70w/sq ft. (I saw one "wall of fame" grow at 90.). They seem like a bad value when you could run HPS at 60w/sq ft -- and have a fixture you can service for the rest of your life using commoditized parts, sell it on Craigslist years from now, etc.

If you bought LED to save electricity, reduce heat, (and don't want to spend for efficient LED) you could step up from HPS to CMH. You'd run it at about 35-40w/sq ft. You could buy one CMH to cover 3.5x3.5, use your MarsHydro to cover about the same footprint (at 60w/sq ft).

If you're curious about CMH, start a thread in the Indoor->LED forum.
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One of the big reason I got an LED was because they seemed like they were easier to start using, which is basically just plugging it into an outlet and hanging it. Any brands that you'd recommend?
 
ryan1918

ryan1918

Well-Known Member
THCmeBro said:
I'm guessing it's a 60/40 hybrid. No clue on the dominance, though I'm guessing indica.


When did you flip from veg to flower? I wait 7-14 days before I call it day one of flower depending on how responsive the plants are to the flip. If this is the case and you are 2-2.5 weeks in, then the pics don't seem behind at all.
It's a little small of a bud that I saw, but cold, low light, or genetics (slow flowerer or small buds) could be the causes, so again, don't worry.
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uh.. as soon as you flip to 12/12 that is day one, not 7-14 days in where the hell did you learn that from..
 
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