Flushing DWC?

mista32

mista32

Well-Known Member
Do fresh water for a day or so it won't hurt them then get some synthetic Nutes don't have to be high dollar some cheap ones work to
 
OldSoul777

OldSoul777

Well-Known Member
I'm a newb but I say just give the plant what it asks for, start small and dial it in. So far my grows have all been successful. Its going to differ from strain to strain from what I have read. If you start to see changes like yellowing or spotting they can be signs of a deficiency and your plant isn't getting what it needs or the PH is out of whack. Spotting on leaves can also be a sign of spider mites. The best thing to do IMO is pay cloase attention to what is going on and catch issues before they become problems. Know the basics. Growing is easier than some make it out to be . Use the kiss rule. Keep it simple stupid!
 
C

churchhaze

Well-Known Member
Why should he use fresh water for a day?

Just use the right ppm. Never use only plain water. It will cause all sorts of deficiencies, even if you just had nute burn.

Definitely use only synthetics though.

mista32 said:
Do fresh water for a day or so it won't hurt them then get some synthetic Nutes don't have to be high dollar some cheap ones work to
Click to expand...
 
joespit

joespit

Well-Known Member
Also how long should I run fresh water to do final flush of nutes in the bud? Should I flush just as I'm getting amber trics?
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-Known Member
I had been using DM GOld full line for 3 grows when I read about hydroponic-rsearch V+B

I got a free sample and ran a side-by-side

Been using V+B ever since

It's a one part complete DRY formula

If I veg > 500 the plants will show sex ~ 7 days, so I veg ~ 400 until I am ready to flip then increase ppms ~ 550. Once I see pistils, lower the light hours

Only hit ~ 1000 for about a week in flower then back down ~ 800
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
joespit said:
So I was at around 800PPM when things look like they started to sour and my pH may have below 6.0 (pool guy PH kit may have been contaminated) pretty sure root rot hasn't been a thing though as my temps are usually low70's-high60's. View attachment 3251550

Tell me what you think but I think but when I look at the leaves she tells me the pH was off leading to cal/mg not being absorbed properly then it looks like the she was feeling weak and became susceptible to nitrogen toxicity.

View attachment 3251553

As for roots I think the color comes from the worm and bat poop or whatever they use. I'm thinking FF may not be best for hydro and going to try something new for next grow.
Click to expand...
You HAVE pythium due to not enough bubbles.
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
Define good pump / stones. Stones clog and should be changed. A commercial 110l pump is good for no more than six large cylinder air stones (only kind to use). I like to change and add air stones when I move from 5 gal veg sites into 31 gal totes for flower.
 
joespit

joespit

Well-Known Member
Well new pumps and stones should I say.. But 2 pumps that have 2 hose outlets. I hear it's just as good if not better to just sink the air hose with no stone? Thoughts on that ?

Good thing I'm also building a RDWC with 800gph pump hooked to jets that'll splash into each root zone plus airsttones.. So hopefully that'll remedy that
 
SnapsProvolone

SnapsProvolone

Well-Known Member
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/95292/GROW-AAPA110L.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=GROW-AAPA110L&utm_content=Air+Pumps&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=CM2ymK7w4cACFSpo7AodSAQAzQ

Feeding up to 6 of these

https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/95314/GROW-ASCM.html?utm_source=SmartFeedGoogleBase&utm_medium=Shopping&utm_term=GROW-ASCM&utm_content=Air+Stones&utm_campaign=SmartFeedGoogleBaseShopping&gclid=CLzPx9Lw4cACFUoS7Aod-G0AXg

Your pumps sound like cheapo aquarium pumps that simply won't do.
 
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