Flushing = ignorance

bgmike8

Well-Known Member
actual science can be a wonderful thing, bro science not so much

There are smoke reports posted here from folks that smoked my herb and I,,,,,,

Feed chem nutes to the end
do not flush
harvest during lights on
never use p/k boosters
I'm new and I haven't been offered any of rm3's weed but I can tell you my last harvest was fed heavy in an aero system right until I chopped it. Smoked good after cure. Burns good. Sold good. And i still have a little personal that I smoke at night and play video games . It's great.
That does it for me. All the ancedotal evidence I need. And the bullshit about white ashes... ridiculous. I get white ash .
 

OldMedUser

Well-Known Member
Got that right Roger and bgmike8! The cure is how you get the tasty kind.

I take up to 5 weeks to get my buds dry enough to go into jars for another month of burping. My friends that buy street pot sometimes always comment on how my stash doesn't make them cough and smells so nice.

I don't flush but with my soilless grown plants I feed just RO water the last week or more. I want to see older leaves going all yellow and limp as that tells me the plant has used most of the salts in the root zone and is now pulling the last of what it needs from it's storage.

With DWC I gradually reduce the ppm so it's around 300 near the end as I crop my plants over a couple weeks by taking the big stuff off the top then letting the lower colas ripen up and gain a little weight before taking down the rest of the plant.

Increasing my production this winter 3x at least so coming with a plant to streamline the dry/cure process to handle the extra load. Small cabinet with drying racks and a humidity thermostat hooked to a computer fan to keep the RH high enough for about 3 weeks drying. Mould is always a threat but careful monitoring seems to work.

:peace:
 

GardenGnome83

Well-Known Member
Kill your roots, but keep the plant under lights. This will force it to use up the stored nutrients, etc. I believe some fermentation may occur as well, resulting in a cured smoke when it is dry. Speeds it up quite a bit. There are others more educated than me on the subject...
I was sketched out by it, but I tried it, now I love it!
 
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Magnetoman

Well-Known Member
I finished my first grow off yesterday with boiling water, poured until it drained out bottom.
Hope I used enough and it was hot enough, its a trek through the house from stove to tent so boil subsided some by time I was at plant.
Should I assume I wont start to see some fade for another day or 2?
 
The cut-flower-method of depleting a plant's internal reserves of mineral nutrients work wonders for improving flavour, colour and nose of cannabis buds.

Do just like you do with cut-flowers from the florist, but change the water in the vase everyday.

Simply cut a mature cannabis plant, right at the soil line, then keep it in the grow room with its cut stem in a big bucket of water for 5 - 10 days. Under lights and in dry air it will still transpire, but much faster and you will see the plant use many times more water compared to when it had roots still attached. It will rapidly ripen, change colours and starve itself. Cut flowers can live up to 2 weeks if you change the water often, and cannabis will do the same.

The cut MJ plant will suck up water by capillary action much faster than when it had roots, and if left under lights it will try to continue to grow, but will not receive any mineral nutrients from its stores in the roots. This could be a whole new pre-harvest handling method; imagine treating a whole crop this way, where you have water troughs to hold the cut plants for the last week of growth.!

Minerals are stored throughout the body of the plant, nitrogen especially is stored as amino acids and "storage protein" in the roots. Other minerals in the shoots are moved around as needed and are directed to the top-priority growing sites, so the whole living plant is a reserve of nutrients which we want to deplete as the plants reach peak ripeness.

Instead of "flushing" we should say that nutrient concentrations in the plant tissues need to be "diluted by growth"; meaning that during the expansion of cells and new cell divisions that enlarge the body of the plant, the plant will dilute its internal reserves, simply by having gotten bigger. We want the last increase in volume of plant tissue to occur without any more minerals being taken up by roots.
 
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moondance

Well-Known Member
The cut-flower-method of depleting a plant's internal reserves of mineral nutrients work wonders for improving flavour, colour and nose of cannabis buds.

Do just like you do with cut-flowers from the florist, but change the water in the vase everyday.

Simply cut a mature cannabis plant, right at the soil line, then keep it in the grow room with its cut stem in a big bucket of water for 5 - 10 days. Under lights and in dry air it will still transpire, but much faster and you will see the plant use many times more water compared to when it had roots still attached. It will rapidly ripen, change colours and starve itself. Cut flowers can live up to 2 weeks if you change the water often, and cannabis will do the same.

The cut MJ plant will suck up water by capillary action much faster than when it had roots, and if left under lights it will try to continue to grow, but will not receive any mineral nutrients from its stores in the roots. This could be a whole new pre-harvest handling method; imagine treating a whole crop this way, where you have water troughs to hold the cut plants for the last week of growth.!

Minerals are stored throughout the body of the plant, nitrogen especially is stored as amino acids and "storage protein" in the roots. Other minerals in the shoots are moved around as needed and are directed to the top-priority growing sites, so the whole living plant is a reserve of nutrients which we want to deplete as the plants reach peak ripeness.

Instead of "flushing" we should say that nutrient concentrations in the plant tissues need to be "diluted by growth"; meaning that during the expansion of cells and new cell divisions that enlarge the body of the plant, the plant will dilute its internal reserves, simply by having gotten bigger. We want the last increase in volume of plant tissue to occur without any more minerals being taken up by roots.
Very nice information there, I got to try it with one this next run, usually I chop and hang when there done to my liking so milky /cloudy with some amber happening on the scope. I chop them wet right before the lights come on. I am definatly going to try it on one plant and get a side by side comparison on it. I am currious now Thanks for sharing!
Moondance
 

Magnetoman

Well-Known Member
shouldn't take too long, the whole process should only be about a week iirc
Thanks - I was thinking not much happens until soil totally dries out?
I was also thinking forward wondering about my soil in general - I used FFHF soil mixed with perlite and coco pete.
I plan to reuse for the clones I took.
I now wished I started a compost a few months ago to add in.
Do I need to do anything special to prep soil for next grow?
 

Roger A. Shrubber

Well-Known Member
i use coco and perlite. i pick out the big pieces of root and leave all the small stuff. i add primezhyme, which is like cannazhyme or w/e zhyme, usually a product line will have a product that breaks down organic material in the soil so your plants and beneficial microbes can use them. then i add a product that has mychorizae, tricoderma, benefical bacteria, humic acid, b vitamins...all kind of good stuff. and since i'm using coco, i add 1 tsp of garden lime per gallon of pot size, don't have to use so much cal-mag then
 
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