For All Cap Ebb and Grow Users

morrisgreenberg- thanks for all your help, im gonna run to the hydro store tomo and give them a try, if im running the gh line right now will the plants be affected if i just switch them out with PBP, i have been vegging for 3 weeks and was gonna flip to flower clear out the rez give it a good cleaning the start with the new nutes, do you add anything else to the plants thru out the flower stage besides th PBP, Cal-mag and the sweet?

also do you use both the PBP grow + bloom or just the bloom in the flower stage and grow in the veg stage?

smokingrubber said:

You need fresh air or a supply of Co2 ... duh

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Yeah i fixed that too as long as i was there

Your new pix definitely look like a mag problem. The only reason they aren't crispy leaves is because of your high humidity and lack of fresh air.

Like stale potato chips

Can somone here help me with my flood and drain times. I'm using the ebb n grow 12 pot system and have had 12 plants in for one week with every 12 hours flood and draining. Should I increase that or Waite till the roots show out the iner pot then increase to 3 times a day?

dude thats a bonafide phosphorous def, fo sho, ofcourse the tech at HG said that, because if Hand G made a cal-mag supplement he would have told you to use it, especially in an RO system, i dont have an RO system 40ppm water and if i slack for one second i will have a slower cal def and an immediate mag def in days, now as for the dropping nute strength, thats frucking fantastic!!!! its better that it goes down than going up, this shows your plants are taking up nutrients faster than water and are hungry and ready for the next step. that being said, a wise old hippy on here told me this....WHEN IN DOUBT FLUSH IT OUT! flush with plain PH'd water for 24 hours and resume feeding at ec 1.6, and if she drops from there bump up the nute strength and make sure your meters are good and calibrated...i just took a look and read you do not have fresh air? if your not bringing in fresh air you must supplement with co2, plants dont need fresh air, they need the minimum levels of co2 that come in with the air. these are fast growing plants, and with co2, light water and minerals will photosynthesis occur, the plants need these element to create the energy to grow and thrive via the production of carbs, you can hinder this energy production bigtime if one of those elemnts is not abundant, plain and simple

for everyone with dropping/rising ppms looky here for a second, most people add more and more nutes just because the plants are getting bigger, this is not cool, you would say to yourself 1000ppm isnt much, well i had Big Buhdda blue cheese nute burn at 1000ppm, 900ppm was her sweet spot, meaning i found the right balance of even when the tank went down the strenght stayed the same, now whiteberry on the otherhand is a heavy hog, 1200ppm is a joke with her, so its all about learning your strains and know what kind of habbits they have. i am sure many of you guys on here have stopped in on Earl's threads before, i got this feeding method from him, i slowly learned not to push my plnats, theres no need only because they will take precisly what they need when they need it, just make sure its in the tank and available to them(PH in range) and thats that

justsmoking said:

Can somone here help me with my flood and drain times. I'm using the ebb n grow 12 pot system and have had 12 plants in for one week with every 12 hours flood and draining. Should I increase that or Waite till the roots show out the iner pot then increase to 3 times a day?

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if you have well rooted clones, place them 1/2 above the flood line, this is key because if on every flood cycle the RW or peatpuck or whatever you use to starts new plants is always wet, your young plant may show signs of overwatering up until she is no longer depending of the RW for moisture, i always have done it like this and as soon as transplant i run a 15min flood every 4 hours, once i see rapid root growth and rapid plant growth all i do is change it to a 30min cycle every 3 hours...30mins are used when you have more than 20 pots on your rez, see what works for you, if you notice the plants looking unhappy in anyway like a droop or clawing effect it may be overwatered and take a step back on floods

shnkrmn said:

Your new pix definitely look like a mag problem. The only reason they aren't crispy leaves is because of your high humidity and lack of fresh air.

Like stale potato chips

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Ok i have fixed the fresh air situation

Flush will start today

I think for some reason my friend added a bit more A nutrient than B nutrient and if i recall from reading their site B is where the MAG is B is also the potassium. Ding ding ding i think we may have a winner.
I put in 500ML of A and i think for some stupid reason he put in 475ML of B (Some guy said more A than B to him grrrrrrr)

I will report back with results

this makes sense, i have no knowledge of the product, one thing i can tell you is that the major nutes N-P-K are mobile elements, if one is outa whack you will know about it pretty fast, for instance calcium is slower moving thru the plant so it will take a little time before you know you need it aswell as it takes time to fix up, mag in im experiences moves fast, so when dealing with low ppm water i use it before i see a deficiency

morrisgreenberg- thanks for all your help, im gonna run to the hydro store tomo and give them a try, if im running the gh line right now will the plants be affected if i just switch them out with PBP, i have been vegging for 3 weeks and was gonna flip to flower clear out the rez give it a good cleaning the start with the new nutes, do you add anything else to the plants thru out the flower stage besides th PBP, Cal-mag and the sweet? also do you use both the PBP grow + bloom or just the bloom in the flower stage and grow in the veg stage?

Amateur question. But the rockwool is always to be above the flood line never below right? So it never gets wet.

just uploaded my album, my leaves are turning a little yellow now on some plants and my, sour D doesnt seem to be growing with the rest of the plants, or not even as close to as quick, it seems like all the pants in the corner of the tents grow 5x faster, why would that be.... take a look at my pics and all tips will be awesome

yeah the rw is supposed to stay above the flood line to prevent the rw from getting mold or other stuff is what i was told

Quemado said:

Amateur question. But the rockwool is always to be above the flood line never below right? So it never gets wet.

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My floods soak the bottom inch of my 4" rockwool. I have not had a problem that I know of. I could be doing it wrong, but why fix what ain't broke?

any tips on how to keep my tent temp down?

Boxing, if your temps are too high in the tent there is only 1 real solution. Get a bigger exhaust fan.

i have a 435 cfm fan cooling my lights with 35 degree air from out side, and that still doesnt do the trick i have to leave my doors open so heat can get out. but even with the doors always open, taking in cold out side air and to fans going inside the tent it is still a task to keep below 80

435cfm ... I'm betting that is a duct booster fan? If so, those fans ratings are total bullshit. They do not work worth a damn once you put ducting or any kind of static pressure against the airflow. Centrifugal fans or squirrel cages are MUCH more effective.

Also, Is you exhaust just going into the same room as the tent? If this is happening the exhaust air is being pulled right back in.

no i have my duct work going from the open window through my inline fan through both cool tube than into an empty closet... the air being sucked through is really cold i think 2 x 1000 watt lights may just be too much for my 4x8 tent?
its not a duct booster fan i know what your talking about, i have an inline fan and it seems to work very well....