xXkillerklownXx
Member
as of today they are 3 weeks old, and yeah they do look like they need nutes, at least the one in the clay pot, i've got humboldt nutes, flower and veg.
For all new growers with questions... Tons of information and answers..
- Thread starter simpsonsampson420
- Start date
as of today they are 3 weeks old, and yeah they do look like they need nutes, at least the one in the clay pot, i've got humboldt nutes, flower and veg.
xXkillerklownXx
Member
whats wrong with this one in the clay pot, and this one's leaves?
Attachments
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
nothing is wrong with the first one.. its just a little stretched.. and not very busy.. it could be the strain.. some strains just grow that way.. you can super crop if you want to try to bush it out...
the second one is just showing advanced signs of a n deficiency.. unless you are talking about the ridges in the leaves... in which case its nothing to worry about.. some strains are just have more predominant ridges and veins...
the second one is just showing advanced signs of a n deficiency.. unless you are talking about the ridges in the leaves... in which case its nothing to worry about.. some strains are just have more predominant ridges and veins...
xXkillerklownXx
Member
whats up with my plants, why are they drooping? i had to repot three of them, could only repot three, all were root bound, started flowering today, hopefully they wont die.
Attachments
xXkillerklownXx
Member
i got home and this is leaning, y?
Attachments
bobbychuck67
Member
Cool thanks. Been hanging in NYC for a few days. We'll see how things have progressed soon. So about two to three weeks for the stretch (for indica). Good to know. Thanks again for the advice.
NLOverOntario
Member
Hey you seemed very well informed and so I wanted to ask you a quick question about flushing. I can't find a straight answer ANYWHERE on when to start flushing, everyone says 2 or one weeks before harvest but how do I know that I will be harvesting in a week at that point. One person said start when you see the first signs of amber hairs but I'm not sure if it's credible. Please help me with this dilema.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
it looks like the stem is a little weak.. do you have air blowing on them to help strength the stems?? if not i would suggest getting some low moving air on them.. otherwise the tops get too heavy for the stems to support and you get lean like that... this can also happen if the plant is stretching to much... keeping your light low will limit any stretch that may be taking place...
yea.. two to three weeks of stretch.. with an indica strain the stretch will be on the lower end of things... i have a couple indica dominant stains that barely stretched at all...
hey bro... ill try to give you the best answer i can and the reason for so many answers you get..
first, flushing is somewhat a personal preference... its not a must.. but you can benefit from it. its really mostly beneficial in a hydro style grow.. but you may also choose to flush in soil also...
some people swear by flushing for 2 weeks.. some dont flush at all... here is my personal take and how i actually flush myself...
i dont think it is good to flush for 2 weeks... the last couple weeks of flowering has some of the mostsignificant swelling that takes place... so your plant can really benefit from the nutes...
i personally flushed this way when i soil grew... when i knew i was down to 2 waterings left (ill get to how to know in a second) i would run a 1/4 strength solution through the soil.. i would use 3x the amount of water as the size of the pot.. so a 5 gallon pot would get 15 gallons of 1/4 strength solution ran through it.. then, the very last watering the plant got was plain water... this gave the plant some nutes to get through the final push i wanted it to do, plus some plain water to make sure it used up everything it had available to it... when the soil was dry after the plain water was fed i would harvest...
with the hydro system i am running i plan on running full strength nutes up to 3 days before harvest, and then running a flushing agent for 2 to 3 days...
now.. here are the times to flush based on when you want to harvest...
first when you harvest you want to pay attention to the color of the trichromes... they go from clear to milky to amber throughout the flowering of the plant... amber is the color that you want to see to know when to start thinking about harvest...
the first time to know when to harvest is when the trichs first start to amber.. early in the ambering the buds will give you strong head high... more sativa like.. so you can harvest an indica early and get more of a sativa effect from it... if you want to harvest at this time, at the FIRST sign of any amber trichs, flush with the 1/4 strength solution, and then follow up with plain water... you may no want to wait until the soil is dry after the plain water.. you can cut down the following day if you want.. it will take a little longer to dry tho since it will be freshly watered.. but thats ok...
when the trichs are about 50/50 you will get a strong body high... if you want to achieve start the flush when you see about 25% of the trichcromes are amber...
if you wait until almost all of the trichs are amber you get a couch lock high... if you want to reach this wait until about 60% of the trichs are amber.. you want to cut down when there is still about 10% milky trichs... it is possible to over ripen your buds... and thats not good.. harvesting before all the trichs are amber will keep them from getting over done...
i hope that helps.. if you have any other questions feel free to ask...
rural hick
Well-Known Member
Gray Mold.
what is the best quick fix to alleviate mold on the top of the soil/soil-less mediums?
and does it continue under the surface?
Kudos, for all your time and effort. great thread with some new ideas and procedures. and confirmation of indecision.
what is the best quick fix to alleviate mold on the top of the soil/soil-less mediums?
and does it continue under the surface?
Kudos, for all your time and effort. great thread with some new ideas and procedures. and confirmation of indecision.
bobbychuck67
Member
Hey Simpson,
Those 3 weeks helped mine for shure. You said three weeks are enouh to begin seeing buds. Mine are now budding and I'm stating to get really happy. That harvest may be just fine. Had to take out three more males, but now the ladies are stretching their legs nicely in the less crowded room. For that reason I was happy to see the males go. Still a real waste of resources just to get a male. I'm definately considering femenized seeds next time. Not sure I'm ready to start cloning though. My room can currently only run one light cyle at a time.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
good call not worrying about taking clones until you have a good setup going.. at least one where you do have a small clone room and then your regular flower room.... that will be the best in the end for you.. it always is a bummer to waste money on growing males.. but just look at it is practice.. they grow the same as females during veg.. so its a little more vegging practice you had... i think i said it before, but if not, i STRONGLY recommend fem'd seeds.. they will save you a lot of work in the end.. you may (not for sure... it MIGHT happen..) get a hermie or a male here and there.. but its a 1 in 20 or more shot... nothing to worry about or to change wanting to get them...
i think i said it before, but if not, i STRONGLY recommend fem'd seeds.. they will save you a lot of work in the end.. you may (not for sure... it MIGHT happen..) get a hermie or a male here and there.. but its a 1 in 20 or more shot... nothing to worry about or to change wanting to get them...
NLOverOntario
Member
Thank you very much, best answer I have ever recieved. Since Im doing hydro and using clearing solution i will just flush the last 2 waterings. How long does it take from when you see the first ambers trichs to when they are over ripe? thanks again
hey everybody im new to this and i have a few questions first of all i want to know do i need a pot that well drain the water out of it or its ok to have a glass pot i also want to know is it ok to have a 120v 15 w bule light on the plant because i havent had the time to go out and get a more stronger one the plants are only one week old and since im using a glass pot how much water do i give them and two of my plants the round shape leaf is curling up why is that am i doing something wrong and thanks to who ever helps me out
bobbychuck67
Member
Yeah it definately was helpful experience in the end. I know how to recognize the males now if nothing else. Another mistake I learned from - while out of town for several days one of those little "grapes" matured enough that when I cut him down he let a little pollen go. Little bugger. Oh well chalk it up to experience right? I'm hoping he didn't pollenate to many females. Most of the other plants didn't even have any female parts developed yet. Won't sweat it though.good call not worrying about taking clones until you have a good setup going.. at least one where you do have a small clone room and then your regular flower room.... that will be the best in the end for you.. it always is a bummer to waste money on growing males.. but just look at it is practice.. they grow the same as females during veg.. so its a little more vegging practice you had...
Here's a bigger concern. I started in summer when my biggest problem was keeping the room cool with plenty of ventillation. Now we just got our first early snow and temps took a huge dive. I cut the vent fan speed back. That helped some because the room is in an unheated part of the house. However my digital thermometer said the low temp had gotten down to 38! They seemed to have survived but I don't want to repeat that. I should probably get a small heater just in case. Do you think I can get a controller where I can set the temperature to maintain? I mean most space heaters just have a lame dial you set not an actual temperature. Thanks again.
I'm going to be vegging 4 Blue Dream clones in a coco/perlite mix in 7G pots under a 1000W MH colosseum style to ~2ft and flower under a 1000W HPS to ~6ft(Is it common for BD to triple in size?). The veg light cycle will be 24/0. The flower light cycle will be 14/10-12/12. I'm using organic nutes and I want to be able to feed at least once a day. Which coco/perlite ratio would be best for at least once a day feed? What would be a good baseline feed schedule for this type of setup? I was thinking a 15% strength and gradually scale up until I see negative effects. This is my first grow, I've read enough books but I'm still lost on feeding. Any help is greatly appreciated.
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
it depends on the strain really.. some go from ripe to over ripe quickly... but i'd say as a good rule of thumb is once ambering onsets there is a 2 week window when you want to chop.. 3 weeks or more and it is more than likely overly ripe..
hey bro.. congrats on entering the world of MJ growing and welcome to the site.. here are your answers..
1) you want a pot that drains.. a pot with standing water in the bottom can cause issues.. and you'll want a pot that has dark sides...
2) if you are using a standard incandescent light bulb, no, its not ok.. you want CFLs if anything... that low of wattage will not put out enough lumens to sucessfully do anything... you'll want to get at least 1 x 24w cfl light bulb to get by until you can get the proper lighting..
3) there is no amount to water... the best thing to say is to water so the soil is moist, and then wait until it drys out to water again.. there are factors that will affect the length of time between watering.. your plants need, the temperature in your grow room, and the humidity can all vary the length of time..
4) without seeing a picture of the plants and how they are curling its hard to say... are they actually curling up or just reaching up?? it could be heat issues.. it could be that its reaching for light.. or a couple other things.. can you take a pic??
you can get a thermostat that will kick on at a low temp and off at a high temp that you can hook a space heater to.. so lets say you want it to kick on at 70 and off at 75, you can have it do that... http://www.wormsway.com/detail.aspx?t=prod&sku=DPT600&AC=1 you want to keep it above 60 during lights out tho.. lower than that and flowering slows drastically..
ok.. ill try my best here...
i dont know the stretch of BD.. but i would count on closer to just doubling over tripling..
i would use about 50% perlite to 50% coco... you may need to feed 2 times a day... if you are aiming for one time a day only tho you may want to go with 75% coco..
as far as feeding its hard to say what to use and how much because of how much they vary from brand to brand.. but i would say start with 1/4 strength solution until you get a good root system.. increase from there... if you start to see nute burn at all back off just slightly.. if you accidentally over feed flush with a 1/4 strength nute solution..
if you tell me what you are using i can try to be a little more specific..
Sidewinder73
Active Member
I'm new to this forum and I found this thread to be very helpful, so much props! I'm just starting some deep purple seeds, mostly indica and was wondering if you think any or all strains are good for LST using screens?
Krawnik
Member
Okay, this is my plan once I get my seeds and materials. Tell me if there is anything wrong with it.
I germinate my seeds until I see cracks. I place them in Rockwool. Once they're about 4-8 inches tall, I transplant them into a soil mix medium (this is when I start giving them light nutrients). That's what I got so far, any alternatives or tips?
I germinate my seeds until I see cracks. I place them in Rockwool. Once they're about 4-8 inches tall, I transplant them into a soil mix medium (this is when I start giving them light nutrients). That's what I got so far, any alternatives or tips?
simpsonsampson420
Well-Known Member
hows it going SW? glad you enjoyed the read..
in my opinion i would say almost all strains are LST and Scrog (i think this is what you are talking about doing) friendly.. most strains can easily be tied and scrogged with little problems at all... it seems that more physical pruning techniques, such as topping, FIMing, and super cropping can have better results or no results depending on the strain... some strains just lend themselves more to those types of techniques.. but i'd be willing to say all strains can be scrogged or LST'd with no problems...
i had to have my wisdom teeth pulled.. shit sucks.. i feel for you.. keep wet gauze on the cuts and you can smoke with no worries of dry socket.. at least i didnt have any problems doing it like that.. anyways.. let me know what your pics are up and ill check them out.. i just added new pics to my journal today.. feel free to take a look.. links in my sig...yo, its been a min, i've got my wisdom teeth removed and kinda chillin, i will have pics here this afternoon for you to analyze, and tell me any pointers, thanx man.
hey bro... thats a pretty solid basic plan... here are some things to remember and take into consideration...
1) i assume you are germing in paper towels right? be gentle when you move the cracked seed and tape root... you dont want to damage it..
2) depending on the size of the actual rockwool cube you may not be able to grow the seedling out the long in it... you'll want a 3x3 or 4x4 rockwool cube if you want to let them grow that large in it...
OR
since you are growin in soil, you could soak the seed for 24 hours and then plop it directly into your soil mix and moisten it.. do this in a 16 ounce dixie cup.. and that will be plenty enough root space for the plant to grow that large and not have issues...
3) if you do go from rockwool to soil (which is fine.. dont get me wrong) dont start giving the plant nutes right away.. you can water with something like thrive alive or a root booster if you want.. this will help the roots start growing and limit transplant shock... but wait until you see the plant start to yellow slightly before adding nutes.. you want to give the plant time to adjust to the soil and the nutes the soil will provide..
4) use good quality soil that has no added nutes.. this will keep you from burning your plant... cheaper soils can have bugs or other plants in the mix.. so spending the money on some quality soil (like fox farms/ocean forest) is well worth it..
5) make sure to have your soil about 20 to 30 percent full of aeration amendments, like perlite, vermiculite, or peat moss... this will help assist in drainage and aeration so your roots will be happy..