Fresh newbie, 400W/1 Plant, indoor soil.

steeZz

Well-Known Member
Should I be balancing the PH of my water that I flush with?

I used like 2GAL's of 6.2 PH water per pot, is that not enough?
 

Lanternslight

Active Member
I believe you are right where you need to be; 5.8 median for hydro and a 6.2 median for soil. Soil is a good buffer as well. anyone wanna concur?

Have you been checking ppm?
 

alotaball

Well-Known Member
Always ph the water.. anywhere between 6.0-7.0 will work fine in soil.. I like to kinda bounce around in that range to make sure all nutrients dont get locked out :)
 

alotaball

Well-Known Member
I think I sent you this before.. but if not here it is again ... shows what nutes are available at what ph ranges.. Soo you can see what ph range allows the most availability ... its nice too because you can lower or raise your ph if you have certain def.
 

steeZz

Well-Known Member
my bro just got here tonight and gave me three of his personal OG strain seeds AHHHHHHHH !!!!! so stoked. but so drunk at the same time.

anyways, he said I should cut all the foilage and pointless bushy-ness of the plants off, so i'm going to let him show me what to cut off tomorrow morning when I feed... but do you guys think this is a bad idea before I do so?

feeding tomorrow morning, most likely... and i'm going to be using nutes aswell.. figure i havent put too many doses of nutes into the soil and i flushed once so i think i'm good to give them some more...

heres a new pic of my bros og.
soon i'll have nugs like theeeeese.MaloneOG.jpg
 

alotaball

Well-Known Member
Leafing is one of the most misunderstood techniques.. In the mind of the cultivator, several reasons exist for removing leaves. Many feel that large shade leaves draw energy from the flowering plant, and therefore the flowering clusters will be smaller. It is felt that by removing the leaves, surplus energy will be available, and large floral clusters will be formed. Also, some feel that inhibitors of flowering, synthesized in the leaves during the long noninductive days of summer, may be stored in the older leaves that were formed during the noninductive photoperiod. Possibly, if these inhibitor-laden leaves are removed, the plant will proceed to flower, and maturation will be accelerated. Large leaves shade the inner portions of the plant, and small atrophied floral clusters may begin to develop if they receive more light.
In actuality, few if any of the theories behind leafing give any indication of validity. Indeed, leafing possibly serves to defeat its original purpose. Large leaves have a definite function in the growth and development. They serve as photosynthetic factories for the production of sugars and other necessary growth sub stances. They also create shade, but at the same time they are collecting valuable solar energy and producing foods that will be used during the floral development of the plant. Premature removal of leaves may cause stunting, because the potential for photosynthesis is reduced. As these leaves age and lose their ability to carry on photo synthesis they turn chlorotie (yellow) and fall to the ground. In humid areas care is taken to remove the yellow or brown leaves, because they might invite attack by fungus. During chlorosis the plant breaks down substances, such as chlorophylls, and translocates the molecular components to a new growing part of the plant, such as the flowers. Your ladies begin to lose their larger leaves when they enter the flowering stage, and this trend continues until senescence. It is more efficient for the plant to reuse the energy and various molecular components of existing chlorophyll than to synthesize new chlorophyll at the time of flowering. During flowering this energy is needed to form floral clusters and ripen seeds.
Removing large amounts of leaves may interfere with the metabolic balance of the plant. If this metabolic change occurs too late in the season it could interfere with floral development and delay maturation. If any floral inhibitors are removed, the intended effect of accelerating flowering will probably be counteracted by metabolic upset in the plant. Removal of shade leaves does facilitate more light reaching the center of the plant, but if there is not enough food energy produced in the leaves, the small internal floral clusters will probably not grow any larger. Leaf removal may also cause sex reversal resulting from a metabolic change.
If leaves must be removed, the petiole is cut so that at least an inch remains attached to the stalk. Weaknesses in the limb axis at the node result if the leaves are pulled off at the abscission layer while they are still green. Care is taken to see that the shriveling petiole does not invite fungus attack.
It should be remembered that, regardless of strain or environmental conditions, the plant strives to reproduce, and reproduction is favored by early maturation. This produces a situation where plants are trying to mature and reproduce as fast as possible. Although the purpose of leafing is to speed maturation, disturbing the natural progressive growth of a plant probably interferes with its rapid development.
Your plants grow largest when provided with plentiful nutrients, sunlight, and water and left alone to grow and mature naturally. It must be remembered that any alteration of the natural life cycle will affect productivity. Imaginative combinations and adaptations of propagation techniques exist, based on specific situations of cultivation. Logical choices are made to direct the natural growth cycle to favor the timely maturation of those products sought by the cultivator, without sacrificing seed or clone production.
 

steeZz

Well-Known Member
Day 7 of flowering, all but hindu kush got watered and fed today, her soil is still damp...

Got some pics of the Desert Dreams tops and stem and whatnot.. shes by far my over-achiever. and everytime I water her, it's like I can't overwater.. she sucks it all up and refuses to piss afterwards.

all is well with the northern lights and the master bubba, and even the seedling.
DesertDreamDay7Flower.jpgDesertDreamDay7Flowerz.jpgDesertDreamDay7Flowertops.jpgDesertDreamDay7Flowerstem.jpg

hindu kushHinduKushDay7Flower.jpg

master bubbaMasterBubbaDay7Flower.jpgMasterBubbaDay7Flowerz.jpg
Redbull
RedbullDay7Flower.jpg
Northern Lights
NorthernLightsDay7Flower.jpg
 

ayenull

Well-Known Member
HTML:
at the hydro shop I go to you can get a big bag of perlite.. bout the size of the ffof soil bag (1.5 cu ft i think) for 6 bucks.. I would mix 20 percent or so perlite with your fox farms soil when you repot.. this will make the soil drain better and dry faster.. I do about 1/3 perlite 1/3 happy frog and 1/3 ffof and its working well.. plus its a little cheaper then running 100 percent ffof. Only thing is I water every other day now instead of every 3-4 days.... and I prefer that. Seems the plants deal with UNDERWATTERING better then OVERWATTERING .. plus if you under water .. its real easy to fix.. just water again .. but if you Over water.. all you can do is wait for evaporation lol.
This is the exact same soil mixture I used on my current grow. The plants are loving it so far. :)
 

alotaball

Well-Known Member
Steez.. go to my journal when ya get a chance and check out the querkle genetics I have going.. I had 2 pheno's .. the first one I harvest wasnt all that great.. this second one is amazinG...
 

tyke1973

Well-Known Member
The one thing that you will 100% gain from is doing just the one plant,i do two per 600 hps and am gutted if i get 8 oz per plant i normaly get around 10 to 12.I would have gone for a auto pot set up,i have found these the easyest and least stress free sytems.Invest in a cf/ec/ppm metre these will increase your yeild no end.
 

steeZz

Well-Known Member
RAGGED! Been a while man nice to see you!!

Thank you all for stopping in.

and yes, they are going to be big.. maybe too big..

nothing a hydrostore and some money can't fix though right? lol
 

steeZz

Well-Known Member
OH, and I just did what you told me not to do alotaball, cause im sick of the fucking hindu looking like shit.

I took my hand, and dug out like big ass holes around the outside perimeter of my pot and removed the soil into solo cups, then put handful after handful of perelite into the soil and just mixed it around as best i could WITHOUT touching the roots, don't worry I was pro about it.

then I took about 16 waterbottles and flushed the shit out of her, and after about the second or third one... all this PURE black water was coming out the bottom of her, not like some dirt and water, PURE BLACK.
after about ten more waterbottles it was clear again so i put about two more.

ten minutes later she already looks fucking amazingly happy... we'll see if i fucked her or not.
 

alotaball

Well-Known Member
ur prob good bro as long as you didnt tear up the rootball.. its just a big risk because youdont wanna stress her during her growth spurt in flower.. but since u were PRO about it lol... it wont be stressed... FINGERS CROSSED lol
 

Lanternslight

Active Member
I hope the little girl comes thriving right along side the others. Kepp us posted on her recovery. Everything wa beautiful. Cant wait to see it in a couple weeks
 
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