General Hydroponics Schedule for Autos
- Thread starter Cheech777
- Start date
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
Use their light, then if the plants look light green try medium, then max if you need. Keep pH in the 6.0-6.2 range and water slowly until you get slight runoff, only water when pots are dried back a bit, not dry. In 5s and 10s I water every other day or so with large plants in Promix HP. I'm switching back to Coco/Perlite after this run though because I don't like how long promix HP holds water. Makes keeping pH and EC stable in the rootzone more difficult.
You may decide to swap the micro/grow/bloom with the Maxi 1 part. That's what I use with great results, turns 3 bottles into 1 powder you mix by the dry teaspoon/gal or gram/gal.
You may decide to swap the micro/grow/bloom with the Maxi 1 part. That's what I use with great results, turns 3 bottles into 1 powder you mix by the dry teaspoon/gal or gram/gal.
Would you recommend cutting their recommended dosage of Armor Si 2.5 m/gal or is that a good amount for the whole run? There is a lot of conflicting information out there. How soon should I water til runoff? They just popped today and I don't want to flood them out.
I came across GHE Feed Chart: General Hydroponics Feeding Chart - Usage Guide | Fast Buds (2fast4buds.com) which mentions the expert 10 part feed schedule that has the bottles I am using and comparing it to FloraSeries® Feedcharts – General Hydroponics. Which would you suggest?
I definitely will switch to dry nutes once I use up what I have. Seems like such less hassle.
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
Less is fine when it comes to Armor Si, I only use 5ml/gal cause that brings my filtered waters pH up to where I want it after mixing Maxi in.
Don't overthink it with feed charts, the plants should be your feed chart. Those are merely general guidelines. I feed 8 grams/gal at some points of the plants life when GH recommends like 5.5 Grams or something like that. The plants LOVE it where 5.5 grams would leave them yellow and hungry with my setup.
This is the 1-part basically the micro/grow/bloom in 1 bag https://generalhydroponics.com/products/maxi-series/
Keep in mind, their feed chart isn't going to show your additives. You can ditch the liquid koolbloom and use dry koolbloom in mid-flower @ 1 gram per gallon. Always make sure pH is 6.0-6.2 range in flower with those nutrients/additives for best results.
Here is my feed, if you don't wanna follow it that's fine but this is what I do to get good results.
Great feed for use with RO Filtered Water in Coco or Coco/Perlite Container Plants
- General Hydroponics Armor Si 5 ml/gal
- General Hydroponics MaxiBloom 7 g/gal (you can increase/decrease based on how plants look) *Dark green, back off, light green, increase*
- General Hydroponics KoolBloom Dry 1 g/gal (Weeks 4-6 of bloom then go back to normal feed or you can burn plants)
pH Solution to 5.8-6.2 before feeding
Get runoff every watering, water until water starts to begin to drip from the pot
This above formula has repeatedly yielded up to 1.3 grams per watt dry trimmed flower under 600-700w LEDs.[/QUOTE]
All the Nutrients that cannabis plants need, anything else is probably snake oil/unnecessary
Macronutrients
- Nitrogen (N)
- Phosphorus (P)
- Potassium (K)
- Calcium (Ca)
- Magnesium (Mg)
- Sulfur (S)
- Iron (Fe)
- Manganese (Mn)
- Zinc (Zn)
- Copper (Cu)
- Boron (B)
- Molybdenum (Mo)
- Chlorine (Cl)
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sandman83
Well-Known Member
maxi-series is for sure easier to mix, just needs lots of agitation to get it all dissolved. I started with the light feed 3 part as well currently, bumped up to medium after veg was over. Should specify I was running DWC recirculating.
armor si is a PITA to mix, super basic and will react with anything else if they hit concentrated forms. Add it first, rinse your container out really well and stir the tank a few times, THEN add your cal/mag and I'd dilute it with plain water too, then your nutes. If you see cloudy white water you did it wrong.
armor si is a PITA to mix, super basic and will react with anything else if they hit concentrated forms. Add it first, rinse your container out really well and stir the tank a few times, THEN add your cal/mag and I'd dilute it with plain water too, then your nutes. If you see cloudy white water you did it wrong.
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PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
Personally I say use the "medium" feed chart. You DO NOT need to flush every "x" amount of days as long as your fertigations are consistent with a decent amount of runoff.
I used to use the GH Flora Trio, but have since switched to GH FloraNova Series, it has slightly less nitrogen in flower than the Trio and there's two less bottles to use. Flora Trio is fantastic for drip systems, FloraNova not so much because it's chunky.
I used to use the GH Flora Trio, but have since switched to GH FloraNova Series, it has slightly less nitrogen in flower than the Trio and there's two less bottles to use. Flora Trio is fantastic for drip systems, FloraNova not so much because it's chunky.
sandman83
Well-Known Member
I tried the Nova and didn't like the chunky, thought I got a bad batch. At least it wasn't me! Medium is a good place to start as well, just not the super aggressive + all additives at max strength.
Wastei
Well-Known Member
Start out with just the base to easier get a hang of how to dial in nutrient strength. There's no set schedule for any plant but start low and increase gradually. The only optimal is what the plant tells you to feed it from plant response. Start at 0.3 EC and raise gradually as they grow bigger.
Invest in a EC and pH pen. Good luck!
PopAndSonGrows
Well-Known Member
Depending on your medium, you may not need the additives. Cal Mag is helpful if you use cheap coco like me, but otherwise soil & peat you might be able to skip that.
Armor Si, my opinion it's only of any benefit if your plants are subject to varying conditions like temp or RH swings, and wind from fans. If your conditions are consistent and your plants just get a nice tickle of a breeze, you can probably skip the Si.
Floralicious, I'll be honest I feel like it does aid the plant in producing fragrance, but it's easy to overdo & can affect the overall quality and appearance of your flowers. You could skip this too, but IMO this is the one additive you should pick if you're only gona pick one. ---i don't consider the KoolBloom as an additive, as it's definitely needed in flower.
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
This is not true. It helps with bud formation, stacking, overall weight, thicker cell walls (pests and pathogens and extreme conditions like underwatering or heat), and prob some other things I'm forgetting
calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
I know I substituted Armor Si (Potassium Silicate) for the pH UP (Potassium Hydroxide/Potassium Carbonate) and the plants were not as busty at all. Silica definitely plays a role in big plants, especially when grown in hydro/soilless. Earth's crust is ~60% silica.
The science doesn't lie
Jjgrow420
Well-Known Member
Silicates are not plant available and need to be broken down in the medium. Monosilicic acid is the only available form of silica to plants. Any form of silica you add in needs to be broken down by enzymes and bacteria into monosilicic acid, only then is it available to the plant.
There's alot of misinformation on silica and its uses. Products containing 'potassium silicate' are mainly just snake oil. It's not available to the plant, and any difference you see in the growth is generally chalked up to the small amounts of boron, molybdenum and zinc they add into the mix.... You will still have some silica break down eventually, but nothing near what you think you're putting in there. Maybe 1-2% of the potassium silicate will break down into monosilicic acid over the course of weeks or months even.
There's alot of misinformation on silica and its uses. Products containing 'potassium silicate' are mainly just snake oil. It's not available to the plant, and any difference you see in the growth is generally chalked up to the small amounts of boron, molybdenum and zinc they add into the mix.... You will still have some silica break down eventually, but nothing near what you think you're putting in there. Maybe 1-2% of the potassium silicate will break down into monosilicic acid over the course of weeks or months even.
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calvin.m16
Well-Known Member
I use it more to condition my soil than feed the plants anyways as far as the silica goes, so that's a good thing or my pH would be all over the place, that said, the pH remaining pretty stable even with 48 hour watering intervals is proof enough that the potassium silicate isn't being broken down into its simpler acid form monosilicic acid. To me that's a pro, also I'm assuming some of that extra beef to the plants is probably just the boost in Potassium and maybe some of that silica breaking down over the 9-10 week period I'm feeding the plants.
I won't spend money on MSA.
All the Nutrients that cannabis plants need, anything else is probably snake oil/unnecessary
Macronutrients
- Nitrogen (N)
- Phosphorus (P)
- Potassium (K)
- Calcium (Ca)
- Magnesium (Mg)
- Sulfur (S)
- Iron (Fe)
- Manganese (Mn)
- Zinc (Zn)
- Copper (Cu)
- Boron (B)
- Molybdenum (Mo)
- Chlorine (Cl)
Can be taken up to 6.4 6.5 for perfect nute uptake I pH at 6.4 area around 6.4 6.5 is the area where all nutes are able to be taken by the plant if your pH is out of range some nutes cant be pulled from the soil there are charts on the net