Al B. Fuct
once had a dog named
I go into all that in some detail in https://www.rollitup.org/hydroponics-aeroponics/15030-batch-clones-rockwool.htmlHi Al, I was hoping you could provide me with some further information about your mother plants.
[...]
I understand the procedure involved in topping / fimming but am unsure when and where to do so.
It's not much more difficult than introducing a clone to 18+h/day light and nipping off the growing tip, forcing growth to divide. In a couple of weeks, the side branching will develop a bit, giving you nice thick stems to use for cuts.
Mine look like this right after cuttings.... and 2 weeks later:
Nah, cannabis in veg likes being cut back. It will respond by dividing growth or popping out new branches down on the mainstem when the plant is more advanced. You do wind up with something of a bonsai effect after a while. However, on older mums, branches eventually come up very thin. I've found that thicker stems root much more reliably and consistently.I found this page when looking for further information, but it looks quite harsh to cut the top off the plant in this manner....
OpenDNS
Thick stemmed cuttings outperform thinner ones. The stack on the left all have stems about 4mm or less. The stack on the right all are over 5.5mm.
The method described suggests taking many more, much smaller cuttings per mum than I do and keeping mums much longer than I do, too. I might only take 4-5 cuttings per mum each 2 weeks, but I'm choosing the thickest, most vigorous stems.
Old grow books' instructions on cloning tend to be based in outdoor growing. Often, the instruction given is to take tiny cuttings from lower branches of a plant as the donor is intended to be flowered. Mainstem tips and side branch tips are best preserved if the donor is to be flowered later. Tiny cuttings with thin stems are hard to get to set root and might benefit from heroics like cutting leaf blades in half (though that does stunt the plant) to reduce transpiration and the use of humidomes.
We don't have those limitations in indoor ops. These days, mother plants are grown specifically to supply cuttings, so the best quality, most vigorous mainstem and larger side shoot veg growth is used for cuttings. Larger cuttings with thick stems are much easier to strike than little ones with tiny stems. No heroics required.
Cannabis is an annual. Under normal circumstances, the plants sprout, veg, flower, go to seed and die between spring and late autumn. An 8 month old cannabis plant is about the equivalent of a 100-year-old human. While it's possible to keep mums in a controlled grow room environment for many years, it's not particularly advisable. The new material that grows from an old mum is still DNA identical to the mum but age can turn on some genetic signals to mutate in old age. The trick is to keep changing mums out often so they never get 'old' per se.
I'd never consider keeping a mum for an entire year, much less 3-15 years as mentioned in the linked item. I replace mine about every 8wks or so, sometimes longer (perhaps 12wks) if they're going well. However, mums tend to get rootbound, may pick up a colony of gnats in the roots, etc. It's too easy to just grow out a clone as a new mum and trash the old one than to try to nurse along a sickish old plant.
Ignore silliness about clones of clones losing any of their characters over time and generations. Cutting a branch off a plant does not alter the plant's DNA. I sprouted Sweet Tooth #4 seeds in 2002 and have been propagating it by cuttings ever since.
There's no particular trick to making big clones root- it's actually much harder to get smaller ones to set root and there's less margin for error should you get the watering wrong. I don't use humidomes nor mist anything- my clonebox even has an exhaust fan. High humidity is not needed to prevent wilt if the clones can get sufficient water uptake through their stem cuts. Without humidomes, if you see wilt in a few days after doing cuttings, your scalpel or watering solution may not have been sterile or the medium was kept too wet and water uptake via the stem cut is being blocked by tissue rotted by pathogens. Use H2O2 @ 1ml/L in rockwool cube soaking and clone watering solutions. A heat mat increases speed and consistency of rooting times across a batch of cuts.
It can be difficult in the beginning to get high success rates with RW cubes. Many folks try to keep them wet or saturated. Sure way to fail. Cubes must be only damp, never wet. A 40mm cube weighs 5g dry and 20-25g when properly damp. Heavier than that is too wet and oxygen will be driven out of the cube, causing slow rooting. When you've gotten it right, you may see first taproots showing at 5 days. I always see first roots in 7-10 days. By day 14 post cutting, the roots are developed enough to introduce the clones to the flowering area or the veg area as a new mum.
Avoid organic rooting materials like Jiffy Pots. Organic materials can support mould growth and can fragment, not a nice thing in your recirculating hydro system, where pumps can be fouled.