Get a Harvest Every 2 Weeks

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DR. VonDankenstine

Well-Known Member
Al-
Thanks for the fast reply-I'm trying to do the changeover in the most cost effective way possible.

1. Are your res containers just heavy storage bins?

2. Does the sulfer burner produce much of that "rotten egg" smell?

3. What is the gph/gpm rate of the res pumps? (a.mother res/b. flower res).

4. You stated in the last response that your vent system was on a thermastat---are both intake and exit on the same thermastat?

5. I notice that canna had a couple of diff options: You stated you used the veg/flor--I read they have a RO line/tap water line---what is the specific product you use?(I know you have posted the nutr. many time throu this thread but after looking at the canna site it seems there are alot of options--I would like to get it right the first time.).

6. What came first---The chicken or the egg???

Thanks again
_______________________
:fire:Dr. VonDankenstine:joint:
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al-
1. Are your res containers just heavy storage bins?
Storage bins yes, heavy, no. Cheapest in the dollar shop.

2. Does the sulfer burner produce much of that "rotten egg" smell?
Rotten egg smell is usually hydrogen sulfide, not sulfur. Sulfur itself does have a bit of a pong when evaporated but it's nothing like rotten eggs.

3. What is the gph/gpm rate of the res pumps? (a.mother res/b. flower res).
No idea. Enough to fill my trays to the overflow in under 4 mins, I guess.

4. You stated in the last response that your vent system was on a thermastat---are both intake and exit on the same thermastat?
Yes, they are on the same thermostat.
5. I notice that canna had a couple of diff options: You stated you used the veg/flor--I read they have a RO line/tap water line---what is the specific product you use?
I wasn't aware that Canna had anything of the sort- it's not available in Australia. The nutes I use are labelled 'Flores' and 'Vega,' nothing more. If a nutrient were made specifically for RO water, it would very likely be made to replace most of the stuff that RO takes out of tapwater, like calcium & magnesium.

6. What came first---The chicken or the egg???
Easiest question yet. The egg came first. Reptiles were laying eggs long before any of them evolved into birds, much less chickens. ;)
 
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dakevs

Active Member
OK. Let me just get this straight. If I have a pretty mature mother plant that has been vegetative for about 2 months, I can take cuttings and immediately induce flowering in them?

If so, doesn't that affect the quality of the bud? Or does the plant know to start putting energy toward bud growth after achieving sufficient root mass?

Also, how do you set up the nutrients. Though I haven't started my own op yet, I can assume that fresh clones require little to no nutrient mix at all, right?

Thanks for this post. It should be stickied, it's so informative.
 

DR. VonDankenstine

Well-Known Member
Al-
I got the tables set-up/they are true 4'X4'(inside diameter), How many of the 175mm pot should I use?(you have the knowledge on usage that would be max but not overcrowded, I plan on trimming the bottom 1/3rd and only running the colas as you stated).

I'm going to run co2 gas at 1500ppm-I fig it will take about 160 pounds of gas to run a cycle (give or take a few pounds depending on the ventilation). I will run the co2 burner in the winter when it's not to hot.

Since I'm going to use RO I will add the cal/mag to the res with the h202 and nutr.

Since I still have the supplies left and a little room, I will run a few of my sat strains due to there longer finishing times in soil till all the supplies are used up(island sweet skunk,super silver haze).

I was thinking about a test run with the ind hybs, I have to see which one likes the system best(og kush/bubba kush/grape ape/godzilla) from there I will phase out the others.

thanks again for all the info
 

cmak40

Well-Known Member
im using the same size tables and roughly the same size pots in another op i put 60 in each table. dunno if that helps, but as long as you trim them you can put 4 per sq ft thats 64 in your area minus the flood and drain area. you could fit 62 but 54-60 prob be best for ya

and try all the seeds you have. i have plenty of different strains in veg from seed right now but youll find only certain ones will be good for this style of op. my afghan kush is a for sure keeper for this srtyle for growth patterns anyway i just have to see yeild and i had pakistan valley but its a slower vegging plant so it wont be useful for this style but youll find one that works for you.
 
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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
OK. Let me just get this straight. If I have a pretty mature mother plant that has been vegetative for about 2 months, I can take cuttings and immediately induce flowering in them?
yep!

If so, doesn't that affect the quality of the bud?
nope!

Or does the plant know to start putting energy toward bud growth after achieving sufficient root mass?
I don't think that cannabis plants give too much consideration to anything. They're a bit brainless, you know. ;) DNA is a bit like a computer program. When presented with certain conditions, the DNA responds with certain behaviours, pre-programmed by millennia of evolution under certain conditions.

So it happens, cannabis is indigenous to latitudes where there are cold winters. The plant manages living in this sort of climate by producing seeds at the end of the warm parts of the year. The plant itself then dies off, with the next generation sprouting from seed in the following spring.

Cannabis takes its cue for the time of year mainly by the day length, but to a lesser degree from the overall colour or spectrum prominences of the sunlight. In summer, with long days and high sun angles, cannabis plants grow tall, so as to get their flowers up high in the air, which gives a better chance of catching some pollen. When sunlight is hitting the earth's surface at a relatively high angle, the path through the atmosphere is short and very little blue light is filtered out. Lower sun angles through the atmosphere in temperate latitudes in autumn filter out most blue light, making the autumn light appear more red-yellow.

As such, we know that cannabis will grow in a full flowering habit when presented with a 12 hour day length and will grow fully vegetatively when given >18h/day light. The growth habit response will be mixed with day lengths in between 12-18h. It doesn't matter whether a plant has had any veg growth when encouraged to flower. If it has had no veg growth, it just doesn't get as tall by the time it is in full flowering habit.

The responses are really quite separate, but as anyone who has had to re-veg a previously flowered plant will tell you, the plant produces some weird growth habits, with mixed vegetative and flowering characters, when the natural annual photoperiod schedule has been defied. Fan leaves with one blade, like an oversized bud leaf, or small clusters of empty seed bracts, like those appearing on a bud, will grow at the nodes on the mainstem when a previously flowered plant goes into 18+h/day light for a few weeks. Flowering female plants whose dark period is frequently interrupted will commonly throw out some male flowers (hermaphrodism) in an attempt to self-pollinate since there is uncertainty about the day/night lengths and it may not have time to wait for pollen from another plant.

Cannabis plants don't get continuous 12/12 days in their indigenous latitudes. Their flowering response is much stronger under our artificial schedule, producing large masses of seed bracts (aka buds) where they normally only need to produce a few.

You can see that the cannabis plant is highly manipulable when you can control the environment. This is exploited to the greatest degree by SoG, where we are actually tailoring the plant through manipulating its natural responses to grow under artificial light. Indoor lighting only can penetrate foliage so deeply (dependent upon light power output), so it makes no sense to grow tall plants indoors. Buds out of the prime range of the light will be thin & fluffy. Even the mighty 1000HPS can only penetrate about 40" from the tip-top (when lamp-leaf spacing is considered)- so your plants should be no taller. Simply by not giving the plant any vegetative cycle lighting after the clones set root and inducing flowering immediately, you get short plants which suit the light penetration.

In SOG, mums and clones are kept in perpetual 24/0 light, meaning they are strongly vegging. It takes about 4 weeks for the veg habit to fully cease, even once put under 12/12 light. This is why they gain any height at all even though they have not had any veg time post setting root. By wk4, they're at their finishing height.
Also, how do you set up the nutrients. Though I haven't started my own op yet, I can assume that fresh clones require little to no nutrient mix at all, right?
That's right. I was at one time using a weak veg nute soln for clones but found that it slowed rooting. I now use only water with 50% grade H2O2 @ 1ml/L, pH adjusted to 5.8 for clones. They don't really need any nutes until they get into the flowering area, when they start on 1400ppm @ 5.8, which they get until harvest.

Thanks for this post. It should be stickied, it's so informative.
No worries, thanks for that. The thread gets so many reads that it kinda stickies itself, though. It's rarely off the top 10.

hey Al I'm running SOG now too maybe check me out...journal is in my sig......:peace:
cool, will look later. :)

Al-
I got the tables set-up/they are true 4'X4'(inside diameter), How many of the 175mm pot should I use?
I have 46 pots under each 1000.
 
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marksantiago1968

Active Member
hey al. i noticed your grow room was 9' tall like you said.. however i will be growing in a secret jardin dark room. the biggest one actually...(9'10" x 9'10" x 6'7"). since my max height is a little more than two feet shorter than yours, it probably might pose a problem when the plants get into the last weeks of flowering. what can u suggest? 6'7" is the highest i can work with since i have to use a grow tent... perhaps a light mover might make it work? this is a great thread u have by the way.... very promising info.. ;)
 

Sativa's Son

Active Member
Al B Fuct.,
When you cut your clones you cut them at eight inches and they have thick stems. What about others who cut more traditional clones with thin stems and maybe just 4" in length? I know I can do trial and error, but to save time I was wondering if I should veg it
until it's eight inches tall or just throw em in flowering immedietly as they are, and if I do flower as they are maybe I won't need to trim of lower 1/3, just the branching? I Have 13 square feet under 400watt cooltube. I was planning on hanging cooltube as close as two inches from canopy. My next question is(probably my biggest concern): I'm also getting a darkroom, it's 6'7 in height. 4'11 by 2'8 in length and width. I want to use the one closet for mothers clones on the bottom and flowering on top to keep a perpetual going. If it's possible and you had to, how much height would you give the mothers/clones and how much height would you give the flowering plants up above? I'm using fluorescents below and the cooltube above
Thank You for answering all my qustions so far. Your thread taught me alot. Your like my personal Jorge C.
 
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Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
Al B Fuct.,
When you cut your clones you cut them at eight inches and they have thick stems. What about others who cut more traditional clones with thin stems and maybe just 4" in length? I know I can do trial and error, but to save time I was wondering if I should veg it until it's eight inches tall or just throw em in flowering immedietly as they are,
Thin stemmed cuttings tend to be less vigorous overall, from speed in setting root to amount of bud produced. You could try to veg them a bit under a big light, but for no more than about a week. More than that and they will finish too tall.

and if I do flower as they are maybe I won't need to trim of lower 1/3, just the branching?
pardon?

When I talk about pruning, I'm talking about removing the branches from the lower 1/3 of the mainstem.

I Have 13 square feet under 400watt cooltube. I was planning on hanging cooltube as close as two inches from canopy.
Too close. Cooltubes trap a lot of the radiated heat but not all of it. A 'tubed 400 should be no closer than about 6-8" to the nearest leaf. You'll cook growing tips at 2" and might see 'runny' or bolting buds later in flowering.

how much height would you give the mothers/clones and how much height would you give the flowering plants up above?
Mums and flowering plants in flood systems both need about 6.5' vertical space to allow for the height of the tray with the tank below and adequate clearance for lights. A clonebox could potentially be only a couple feet tall.
 

Al B. Fuct

once had a dog named
hey al whats going on.... i wanted to know how many gallons your reservoirs are... for the 4'x4' systems u have...
heh, you're well advised to read the thread in full. Big ask, I know... but you run into details like this one when you do. :D

My trays are not 4'x4'. I am not generally accustomed to estimating in feet- I speak metric- and simply misestimated when writing post#1. I did get around to measuring them later on. They are 820mm^2 or about 2.7'^2.

My reservoirs for the flowering trays are 125L, the one for the mums is about 50L.
 

marksantiago1968

Active Member
i see.... but after converting mm to feet i found that 820mm is equal to about 2 feet 8 inches... so im a little puzzled how 20 of your 8in pots managed to fit in your tray. pls correct me if ive mistaken. this is in reference to your earlier posts by the way when you said you used about 20 or so 8in diameter pots. thx for the quik response Al.
 
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