GLA First Gen update @ 7 1/2 weeks

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
Started this grow running the drivers @ 440 watts each ( 2 x drivers) started getting a little led burn so backed the drivers off to 410 watts each - these boards are cranking this grow room, every thing is on point in my view- 26 degrees (lights keep constant temps in the room no heater ), no humidifier any more( no need) HR set at 52 ,Dehumidifier works hard... 200mm F/Filter out and 300mm passive intake, all run buy InkBird controls --- Water/Feed every day 550 -650 ppm, 5.8-6.1 ph
Also for the guys that hate thumb nails big pics
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Above- thats a massive 6 week old Bubblegum Auto, need to spreed it out - room is just to small for 6 big autos
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above- Strawberry Gum Auto

@Grow Lights Australia
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
Up-Date @ 9 Weeks - this strain generally grows to about 10-11 weeks, everything status quo..
again big Thumb nails for all to see .... I hate lock down- being pissing down for 3 days ...

Below the 7 Strawberry Gum Autos all showing stages of growth @ 9 weeks , this breeder says 65-70 days seed- harvest ( dont think so)

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Pic 1 - Plant 1^^^^^^^^^^
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Pic 2 - Plant 2 - ^^^^^^
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Pic 3 Plant 3- ^^^^^^
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Pic 4 Plant 4 - ^^^^^^^
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Pic 5 Plant 5 - ^^^^^
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Pic 6 Plant 6- ^^^^
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Pic 7 Plant 7 - ^^^^^ , one ugly plant
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time for gardening, turn radio on listen to talk back, sit back read paper ,coffee , smoke nice easy day
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
quick update week 10 , cut 5 plants down on Friday/Saturday all paper bagged in boxs, 3 plants lights left, staked 2 to open them abit more(probably not needed but the smoke took over )..
This plant will come down tonight
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Also sorry for posting this in wrong thread guys /girls/its what ever who cares


Next pic will leave for another week
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next pic -the last of the Bubble Gum Auto- just starting to swell so will leave for maybe 2 weeks we shall see
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some of the Boxes/bags - will leave for 8 days then check- best to leave for 12-14 days nice slow dry
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Nizza

Well-Known Member
GLA has always been that other light i woulda bought instead of HLG. GLA seems like such a good company, ahead of the game in so many ways. Nice crop!!!
 

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
GLA has always been that other light i woulda bought instead of HLG. GLA seems like such a good company, ahead of the game in so many ways. Nice crop!!!
Thank you for the kinds words! These are the Gen 1 LED boards @Scuzzman is running, but they still hold their own. I like the Bubblegum!

@Scuzzman is it cold over your way? The weather's been a bit weird over the ditch lately. Spring is poking its head out but we've had some very cold nights.
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
we are use to 10 -12 degrees and 1-3 at night , lights keep temps spot on , farm is stuffed after alot of rain, still in lock down ..
@KonopCh full plant pics coming later today for you... :p
 

Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Started this grow running the drivers @ 440 watts each ( 2 x drivers) started getting a little led burn so backed the drivers off to 410 watts each - these boards are cranking this grow room, every thing is on point in my view- 26 degrees (lights keep constant temps in the room no heater ), no humidifier any more( no need) HR set at 52 ,Dehumidifier works hard... 200mm F/Filter out and 300mm passive intake, all run buy InkBird controls --- Water/Feed every day 550 -650 ppm, 5.8-6.1 ph
Hey mate, I'm a bit late to the party and missed this earlier but is that PPM measurement using the PPM 0.50 scale? Would that be EC1.1-1.3? If so, that's quite a bit lower than what we normally run with these lights. If your EC is higher than that then please correct me, but I think you can go a bit higher next round. Stick with me and I'll explain why . . .

One of the more common issues we've been dealing with when growers switch to High Lights is that they tend to stick to their old nutrient regimes and the plants start to develop red stems and light green to yellow leaves early in growth. I made the same mistake myself when I first developed these lights and it took a while to figure out what was going on, but over time I narrowed it down to a general NPK deficiency, as well as magnesium and calcium – especially magnesium.

At first I interpretted this as light stress, but that was only half of the story. When plants lose chlorophyll their ability to photosynthesise diminishes. That means they are more susceptible to light stress which in turn can hurt an already existing nutrient condition and on it goes. Don't get me wrong – your plants look good and the bud development is there, but that's primarily because they are not missing out on potassium as much as they might be missing out on other nutrients.

VPD can be a challenge with LEDs – lower temperatures will generally lead to less transpiration (especially at higher humidities) and that affects calcium uptake. Calcium regulates other nutrient uptake, including magnesium and nitrogen, and that's primarily where red stems and yellow leaves can come from (as well as phosphorous, which is also locked out by lower temps). The only major nutrient that is not as affected is potassium.

Unfortunately, coco releases potassium as it binds magnesium and calcium via cation exchange. Ca and Mg are double positive ions, K is singular, so the coco – which is negatively charged – has a stronger attraction to Ca and Mg, and K is released in exchange. This can get worse the longer you grow, because as coco breaks down into smaller pieces it has a larger surface area which attracts more Ca and Mg and releases more K, which also locks out Ca and Mg. The only counter to this is the plant starts to use up more K as it flowers, so excess K lockout (of other nutrients) appears to get better as the plant flowers, but the underlying deficiencies are still there.

I believe there are reasons why this happens under our lights. The first is obviously lower temps compared to other types of light (the giveaway is reddish-purple/brown streaks on leaves which indicated a P deficiency). But the main reason is that the full spectrum – and we are talking about a proper full PAR spectrum here from 400-700+nm (not what every other company calls "full spectrum" which has no deep blue/violet etc, and certainly no UV and minimal far red, if any) – targets more chloroplasts with the potential for faster growth . . . but only if the amount of nutrient is increased.

A nitrogen deficiency can mask a magnesium deficiency so that it does not look like the typical inter-veinal chlorosis (yellow stripes between green veins) that growers normally associate with a magnesium deficiency. Instead, the leaf takes on an alround light green to yellow hue and it starts with the lower to middle leaves. You may see the odd rust spot or "burnt" tip, which is an accompanying calcium deficiency. Some parts of the leaf may be greener than others, but will eventually turn yellow (with or without Ca spots).

Nitrogen facilitates magnesium uptake, so a nitrogen deficiency will accelerate a magnesium deficiency whilst masking it at the same time – which can be hard to diagnose.

If the nutrient issue is not cleared up, then the plant starts to lose colour – chlorophyll – which makes it susceptible to heat stress (a build-up of leaf temperatures from unphotosynthesised photons). This burns the leaves and further yellows them and of course this is rightly diagnosed as light burn but is not the primary cause – the nutrient deficiency was the primary cause. The only thing you can do is then reduce the amount of light until the nutrient issue is resolved, and once the plant greens up again you can hit it with more light.

pH is important – especially if runoff is overly acidic indicating an excess of K. The irony is that to get the pH up again, most growers will typically use pH Up which is potassium hydroxide! This adds even MORE K to the root zone. And on it goes.

The solution in most cases is to foliar feed a balanced NPK (emphasis on the N and P) solution at about half strength with a full-strength cal-mag supplement which usually contains extra N. Flushing with warm water can remove any build-up of excess nutrients, but you then need to feed with a strong nutrient soloution to make up for the fact the plant was under-fed in the first place. I will typically be running my run-to-waste tanks at EC2.2-2.4. Sometimes higher depending on the strain.

I am writing all this not to be a smart-arse but to try to help other growers as I have not only seen this first-hand, but have done it myself! I just want you to get the most out of those lights because all it takes is a little dialling in to get even better results.

Apart from that, you're in for a bumper harvest!
 

Scuzzman

Well-Known Member
@Prawn Connery ,
was pretty ripped last night reading but got the gest of it - Had to re-read again today with level head.. good constructive criticism is great and always accepted . :bigjoint:
Bit of a follow up on the Bubble Gum Auto ,
After reading your comments in a dazed state( lucky I write things on a white board) my plants were due for a feed/water( approx 12 am) so I thought why not lets up the PPM/EC , so from 550 PPM (1.1 EC approx)right up to 850 PPM( 1.7 EC) and gave each plant 4 litres to allow for a small amount of run off so . Now 4 pm Sunday the plants want another feed/water but this time I added more feed - I went to 1000PPM (EC 2.0) again I put 4 liters through each plant , the Strawberry Gum is packing on more weight, but the BG pic below will clearly show the plant is standing up looking happy . Shall crank the next grow
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Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
@Prawn Connery ,
was pretty ripped last night reading but got the gest of it - Had to re-read again today with level head.. good constructive criticism is great and always accepted . :bigjoint:
Bit of a follow up on the Bubble Gum Auto ,
After reading your comments in a dazed state( lucky I write things on a white board) my plants were due for a feed/water( approx 12 am) so I thought why not lets up the PPM/EC , so from 550 PPM (1.1 EC approx)right up to 850 PPM( 1.7 EC) and gave each plant 4 litres to allow for a small amount of run off so . Now 4 pm Sunday the plants want another feed/water but this time I added more feed - I went to 1000PPM (EC 2.0) again I put 4 liters through each plant , the Strawberry Gum is packing on more weight, but the BG pic below will clearly show the plant is standing up looking happy . Shall crank the next grow
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Mate, once you dial in those nutrients you will be surprised how much your plants will reward you. I only mention it because it is a common theme under good LED lights – plants want to grow and they need to feed!

By the look of your bud structure, I'd say you have enough K in the system, but a little more Cal-Mag will help boost nitrogen levels (try to use a Cal-Mag supplment with added N and Fe) and facilitate phosphorous uptake. Once you get that nice, lush green growth, you can slowly increase light levels to take advatage of the extra chlorophyll to boost photosynthesis.

Here is a photo of a freind's grow under our lights (I hope you don't mind my posting). These plants are about 2 weeks into flower and they are as green as fuck. I created a nutrient chart for him that has his reservoir starting at around EC1.8 and then increasing to EC2.4, however I also ensure there is a lot of run-off (up to 20%) that keeps the coco pots flushed of unused nutrient that can lead to toxic build-up.

Apart from when it is really cold, his plants are green all the way to harvest.

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Prawn Connery

Well-Known Member
Also, I don't want to sound like a tool because your plants are almost there. I'm just talking about a few tweaks here and there to set them up and carry them all the way through flower. Plants are not meant to "fade" during flower – they should be green right up to the end. Anyone who says different has been listening to old wives' tales about "flushing" nutrients making their buds taste better. All excessive flushing does is cost you yield. But perhaps that one is best saved for another argument ;-)
 

Grow Lights Australia

Well-Known Member
Thank you for the good info gents, bonafide noob with GLA 470w. First grow in 20 years recently done and it has been a steep curve. So thank you for the insight, will be making some adjustments for the next.
Hey mate, if you need any help or advice at any time, just ask. We have a lot of good growers using our lights who would be more than happy to help. You can reach us here or email us directly at info@growlightsaustralia.com – we want everyone to get the best out of their lights.

Lookin' good @Scuzzman – got some mad resin going on there!
 
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