Gonna do my first DIY LED with Cree CXA3590

REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
churchhaze said:
18awg should be fine. 12 is totally overkill for 700mA at the lengths of wire you will be using.

I would be more concerned about the wire's insulation jackets rating at the relatively high voltage you're using, at least for the red wire.
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Thank you, I just thought be on the same side. Overkill is my motto> I'm wearing a helmet, Elbow pads and Knee pads lol
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
I received my heat sinks today now I have to drill and tap them for my Ideal COB holders and the heat sinks weigh 10lbs each.
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Is using solid wire better than using stranded wire? lol I got 18 gauge solid wire lol.
SupraSPL said:
Badass heatsinks looking forward to seeing what this build can do bongsmilie
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I wish the 12" wide was available. The 7.28" was too small for the Mean well drivers lol
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Solid wire can carry more current than stranded and tends to be slightly cheaper. Stranded is more flexible, especially in the large sizes, and more tolerant to being flexed repeatedly. I also find it easier to crimp my connectors onto stranded wire. But I don't think solid wire will pose a problem for your setup.
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Solid wire can carry more current than stranded and tends to be slightly cheaper. Stranded is more flexible, especially in the large sizes, and more tolerant to being flexed repeatedly. I also find it easier to crimp my connectors onto stranded wire. But I don't think solid wire will pose a problem for your setup.
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I'm just gonna use it to connect the COB's not the A/C power cord.
 
nonamedman420

nonamedman420

Well-Known Member
REALSTYLES said:
Funny thing is these guys talking about USA panels the LED drivers are still made in China lol and assembled here.
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do yourself a favor and block the assholes. they will not stop fucking with you, believe that. they will twist your words and start fights to laugh from their desk. there are better forums than these, its not all bad people here, just the few who stand out make it tough to learn anything here. wish the mods would see the trolls for who they really are and ban them. good luck man.
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Well I got my first heat sink drilled with holes and only tapped 2 of them before the tap broke damn it back to Lowes again. Next time I'll be more careful plus I have to get a new drill bit as well they dull pretty fast and I have only 4 more holes to drill in my second heat sink lol.
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Ya I hear it can be a PITA, hopefully it is just a steep learning curve but I have not tried it yet. If you keep having trouble with it, you can use the solder + paste/kapton method
DSC07719b.jpg
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Ya I hear it can be a PITA, hopefully it is just a steep learning curve but I have not tried it yet. If you keep having trouble with it, you can use the solder + paste/kapton method
View attachment 3321214
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I thought about using Kapton tape but thermal adhesive no. I want to be able to change out cobs easily.

mc130p said:
Also, don't forget oil! Go forward a turn or two, back it out...slow and easy
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I was doing that but got inpatient from drilling the holes lol. I still gotta figure out how I'm gonna hang my 10lb heat sinks. Aluminum tubing is what I'm thinking with some angle aluminum to hold the heat sinks in place.
 
Abiqua

Abiqua

Well-Known Member
^ just fyi, paste ISN"T adhesive, they are different. I have been using this method with Vero's just holding them down with Kapton and some Prolimatech Pk2 paste...going on 4 weeks or so, no hiccups :peace:

This should spank, when you get up and going, who else be running all 3590's? tis may be the first mang :joint:
 
SupraSPL

SupraSPL

Well-Known Member
Yep, paste has much better performance than adhesive and if you ever need to remove the COB, it is very easy. Just remove the tape, push sideways on the corners (twist/turn the COB) and it will break free without cracking. The paste cleans up easily with alcohol but if you use nano aluminum (Prolimatech PK1 PK2 PK3) I advise to wear gloves.
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
Abiqua said:
^ just fyi, paste ISN"T adhesive, they are different. I have been using this method with Vero's just holding them down with Kapton and some Prolimatech Pk2 paste...going on 4 weeks or so, no hiccups :peace:

This should spank, when you get up and going, who else be running all 3590's? tis may be the first mang :joint:
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I'm fucking smoked out right now from some shit called High Octane from my buddy who's brother grows the real Master P and damn I meant what you said lol but what thermal paste? should I make sure it's silver based?
 
REALSTYLES

REALSTYLES

Well-Known Member
SupraSPL said:
Yep, paste has much better performance than adhesive and if you ever need to remove the COB, it is very easy. Just remove the tape, push sideways on the corners (twist/turn the COB) and it will break free without cracking. The paste cleans up easily with alcohol but if you use nano aluminum (Prolimatech PK1 PK2 PK3) I advise to wear gloves.
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Thanks man, I'll try tomorrow to not break the tap lol. I'll wait and smoke afterwards. Can I run three 3590's on HLG-185H-C700A and can I run 2 drivers wired to 1 plug for power? Because I will wire each driver to it's own plug and plug them into a surge strip. Plus plug in my fan power and then plug then strip into my timer
 
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