Got advice on FloraDuo A+B?

I also wanted to add that though I do like that product and what it can produce, I do not like how it really kills the shit out of the plant at the end, all unnaturally yellow because of super lockout of N and overabundance of PK. Whatever your personal feelings of unflushed bud cough or whatever, you cant argue that you can tell the taste of super high PK in your smoke. It burns.

I use organic products and at the end of the plant's life my plants are still kindof green or a wonderful fall-color natural senescence. I even use 8-0-0, 4-0-0, 0-0-26, and 9-61-0. Haha! Go figure that one out! The first product is Fulvic Acid, Polysaccharides, and Amino Acids. The second increases the synthesis of sacharose, increasing Brix* with oligosaccharides and more Amino Acids. The Third is chelated potassium, and the last is not organic but is my phosphate solution; Monoammonium Phosphate.

I use general guidelines when applying fertilizer to my plants. Generally once a week, sometimes more. I prefer to feed strong and water it out through the week, Increasing about 250 per plant 3" until I reach certain growth stages. At transplant to transition into bloom, the plant would have ended at 1250ppm, during transition 750ppm, and when it starts taking back up I go to 1500ppm. Initially the tips get a little burned but then the plant has no problems with this amount. I rarely go above 2000ppm because I dont care to push my plants that much; they go big well enough. =)

Thanks @outlier I think it is fair at this point that I can add more B and probably be safe. I will try over next few feeds.

And thanks @TheFuture this is good feedback. I do love the product as well now. It's very simple and easy to make veg/transition/flower/etc combinations. It does leave behind some salts in my feeding pitcher after a few feeds. So I think a periodic flush is important. I have flushed twice already (once right before flower, and once around day 20 of flower) and probably won't anymore on this grow, but it is clear there is still some salt buildup, and in hempy there's no real good way to get rid of it other than flushing and hoping. It just makes measuring runoff more important though and I'm fine doing that.

Absolutely @TheFuture I have just had a massive N lockout. Runoff ph was 4.9 though so I have corrected this and was starting to get higher ec runoff readings so I flushed and all seems to be fine again. I went 50/50 coco/perlite so I'm able to flush easily if I screw up. And there's been plenty of that... lol

I seem to be having the same sort of problems with my hempy tests as well. Very difficult to flush properly. Just have to pour and hope like @SmokeDoggy mentioned

I flush my plants regularly too despite those who don't agree with rinsing or flushing. I disagree with it hurting the plants at all because everytime i've flushed the thousands of plants i've grown they always look better. I flush 3-4 times per grow, the 4th being if there were any issues I needed to flush as a remedy. First flush is mid veg, second at transition, third later on right before harvest.

My reasoning is that after a certain point, I want to sanitize and then replenish my medium at regular intervals to suppress any disease or pathogens. I can always add more mycos, trichodermas and bacillus. Often but not always when I am flushing or rinsing I will also use FloraKleen and Hydrogen Peroxide 29%. The H2o2 completely reacts in 24 hours so I simply replenish with Great White 2 days later.
Then I want to rinse out all the salts I can and then I replenish with fresh new salts that are pH balanced exactly where I want them. When I rinse out the plants, I am also rinsing out any bad anaerobic decaying matter and aerating any sulfur pockets that have built up. In my area, the water has ChlorAMINE which does not dissipate out of the water through surface agitation but adds up cumulatively. Because of the extra ammonia component, I need to rinse anyway as this causes a lockout. You might have this issue in your locality. You can see if they use it in your water by calling the water company. You can request a water quality report as well.

Of course when I say flush I dont mean to flush the plants and leave them at 100ppm for any amount of time, your plants WILL have the nutrients osmotically pulled out of the plant and back into the medium leading to deficiency. Flush em to your desired ppm (100) then replenish with fresh nutrient solution at the correct pH for that stage. Rinsing everything out and putting it back in after about 15 minutes isn't going to hurt anything.

Coco coir is very easy to work with though I have not used perlite except as a 7-10% amendment. My mix at the current time is 50% Pro-Mix BX and 50% RioCoco Coir. I have grown with 100% Pro-Mix BX for so long I just decided to add in the coco because I am tired of watering my plants 3 times a day, and if I want some immediately right-this-second and go to my local grow store they usually only have Pro-Mix HP which I hate and rue. Although with this mix and the organic nutrients, it is no longer soilless and the humates and fulvates are building up and breaking down the mix into actual soil. Therefore, I had to adjust my pH.

My methods above were built pretty much around the full use of the FloraDuo series. Because I sell and buy my own products I have since made my own fertilizer regimen, but keeping the "if it isnt broke dont fix it" mentality I just continued the same methods. Maybe the guys are right and I dont need to flush. But with bud this sweet and sticky, smooth with no zing or burn or cough unless you just pull too much... No reason to change.

Cool @TheFuture, my practices thus far are basically in-line. I have flushed twice and will flush again before harvest, and also at that time taper off down over the 2nd last week down to no nutes for the last week or so. Does that sound about right?

It's hard to flush well in Hempy, which is why I'm using just perlite, but I like to think it helps. I need to change my pot shape/size next time too, as this rubbermaid I'm using is giving me a large surface area which has to get flushed/mixed by shaking my tub essentially..

Yeah, I just gave two of my plants the last feed they will get: 1500ppm and they have about ~2 weeks left. I will only water them from this point further with plain water pH to 6.5.

I am now using closer to what @rkymtnman suggested, basically 5mL A and about 15mL B. This is 2x as much B as I had before. So far, no nute burn. I went ahead and went through a full 2L of this to up the level quickly (vs. just incrementally) and so far it looks like it's fine. I will probably trickle it all the way to 5A/17B like he suggested for the next round.

TheFuture said:

I also wanted to add that though I do like that product and what it can produce, I do not like how it really kills the shit out of the plant at the end, all unnaturally yellow because of super lockout of N and overabundance of PK. Whatever your personal feelings of unflushed bud cough or whatever, you cant argue that you can tell the taste of super high PK in your smoke. It burns.

I use organic products and at the end of the plant's life my plants are still kindof green or a wonderful fall-color natural senescence. I even use 8-0-0, 4-0-0, 0-0-26, and 9-61-0. Haha! Go figure that one out! The first product is Fulvic Acid, Polysaccharides, and Amino Acids. The second increases the synthesis of sacharose, increasing Brix* with oligosaccharides and more Amino Acids. The Third is chelated potassium, and the last is not organic but is my phosphate solution; Monoammonium Phosphate.

I use general guidelines when applying fertilizer to my plants. Generally once a week, sometimes more. I prefer to feed strong and water it out through the week, Increasing about 250 per plant 3" until I reach certain growth stages. At transplant to transition into bloom, the plant would have ended at 1250ppm, during transition 750ppm, and when it starts taking back up I go to 1500ppm. Initially the tips get a little burned but then the plant has no problems with this amount. I rarely go above 2000ppm because I dont care to push my plants that much; they go big well enough. =)

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Interesting advice. I have two zones side by side. Same genetics. Same nutrient blend (Floraduo).

One is just A+B & diamond nectar

The other has LKB

24 hr feeding in large scale NFT for both zones. Following the GH feed chart.

The one with LKB started yellowing in week 4. Plant development stunted. Showing nitrogen deficit.

Im going to pull LKB from my program all together. I dont think it’s necessary in a 24 hr feed cycle. And to your point, it’s throwing off the NPK / Lucas Formula (of which FD is based on).